Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Intermittent Low Oil Pressure Light Coming On At Idle
Apr 14, 2016
I have now had the first major issue with my 2012 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD. It started out with an intermittent low oil pressure light coming on at idle. As I researched I found the Oil Pressure Switch thread:
Oil Pressure Switch Replacement - 2010 Santa Fe 3.5L
And using that information I proceeded to replace the switch and while the switch had obviously failed unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. I tore everything down a second time to make sure the replacement switch hadn't failed and to make sure it wasn't leaking. Turns out that everything looked good yet the oil pressure light was still coming on after everything was warmed up.
Tonight I tore everything down for a third time to put an extension hose on the oil pressure port so I could hook up a mechanical pressure gauge in addition to the oil switch. While I am very pleased with how the extension hose worked out, however it appears that I do indeed have low oil pressure. Without letting it warm up completely I was dropping down below 15psi.
I guess at this point my best case scenario is a malfunctioning oil pump and worst case is worn bearings. With only 67k miles and fairly religious oil changes I am praying for the oil pump. My next step is to contact the dealer as I am still under the powertrain warranty, hopefully that goes well. I will try to keep this thread updated as I learn more. Up to this point I have really enjoyed the Santa Fe and have had minimal issues with it.
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Vehicle: 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD ... Oil light coming on when braking hard.
Anyway, my problem was my oil light coming on at idle. Initially, it happened to my wife and she called me about it, and I attributed it to the cold weather and thick oil maybe not pumping properly when the vehicle was cold. After driving it myself, I realized this only seems to happen AFTER the vehicle has warmed up to operating temps. Took it to the dealership, they told me it was a bad oil pressure switch, put in a new one and off I went. (Note: oil was also changed at the dealership when they put in the new oil pressure switch)
Here I am two days later with the same problem. Just about to work this morning and sure enough, the oil light came on again while stopped at a stoplight.
Attached a picture below of my dash...the light flickers and comes on when the idle drops. I've never taken notice before, but what is the actual idle speed of the 3.5L? When the light is on, mine is about 500 rpm...
Also, for those of you with a keen eye, note the distance travelled (238 kms) on my current tank of fuel. Cold weather + all short trips within city limits does not make for a happy Santa Fe.
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On Sunday, I was driving on the highway and noticed an intermittent hum/rumble which seemed like it was coming from the front of the car. At first, I thought it was due to the road quality where you encounter cuts/cracks in the road which could cause similar hum/rumble. The condition of the road changed over to a brand new smooth surface for several miles. I noticed that the same hum/rumble was still there.
I'm not sure how else to describe this?... The tires would go through several rotations before each hum/rumble. For example, x = tire rotations and y = hum/rumble.
xxx y xxx y xxx y xxx y ...very similar to driving on rumble strips that have been placed on the road.
When I got off the highway I also noticed that this hum/rumble would occur during regular driving speeds.
I checked tire pressure all around and all was fine. Took a quick peek underneath and could not spot anything out of the ordinary.
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I bought the car 3 years ago 2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe , I have driven it around 200 miles ( to and from shops ), I am having an issue now where once the car is warmed up ( post 15 mins ) It will idle really low * almost stalling * and oil pressure light will flicker, If I hold the brake and get it to almost 800 - 1k RPM it goes off and driving is not an issue *no knock*. I just got it driving for the 1st time in the past year, and drove it for about 45 mins in stop an go traffic, Temp light was all the way to cold, once stopped in stop and go traffic it would go up half way, as soon as I could get above 50mph it would slowly work itself all the way to the bottom?
More Information
2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe
I should really count my losses and move on but I cant.
Bought the car with 89K on it I now have 90K
New Battery
New Radiator
New Motor mounts 3
New Trans mount 1
New Hoses
Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Trans Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Power Steering Fluid change ( 40 miles ago )
2nd cat delete ( didn't want to waste any more money )
After Market 1st Cat
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Question about the oil light. On a cold start the oil pressure light goes out immediately.
After driving around for a while (engine warmed up) and shutting off the engine for anywhere between 45 to 60 minutes or so and then starting the engine again, the oil light will go out immediately, but then SOMETIMES, pop back on, MAYBE flicker, then stay off. This all takes place in less than a second, almost a microsecond. This is all very intermittent too, No rhyme or reason as to temp or time between starts. Engine is very quiet, except for a COLD start (over night). I use 5-20 and it makes no difference whether using conventional or synthetic.
I change my own oil, but dealer did it once and I still get the same issue. I suspect the sending unit, or is this 'normal'?
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My oil pressure light came on about a week ago (while I was out of town), so I took it to the dealer who replaced the oil pressure sensor. I got home and noticed oil was leaking. Brought it to my mechanic who said it was probably just residual oil (same thing I found on this forum), but he put dye in the oil just to be sure. I brought the car back today and it is definitely leaking oil from the engine. He said it was probably the main seal at the back. It is now at the local dealer who has said that the seal is covered by warranty.
Could the original problem have been caused by the leaking seal? The car was originally leaking oil and the oil pressure light would come on sporadically. Generally the light would go off when I accelerated. I realize that these sensors tend to break pretty regularly, but it was not a warranty item and this seems like a pretty big coincidence to me. Maybe it is just a coincidence ?
2011 Santa Fe ltd, awd, 69000 miles, 3.5 L.
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Trying to find any information on what's happening with my 2008 2.2 Diesel Santa Fe ... Been driving fine until I pulled up at a set of traffic lights yesterday and started hearing a loud rattle- knocking coming from the engine at idle.
Put it in gear and drove and it goes away. When at idle if you rev the car it goes away.
Mechanic seems to think it could be clutch as it vibrates the gearbox, but sound seems to be more prominent around the engine, my thoughts were maybe a loose timing tensioner.
Clutch replacement is very expensive.
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Two days ago I had new tires put on my 2007 Toyota Highlanders and since that time my air pressure sensor light keeps coming on. The tires are the right size, I checked in the owners manual. I've taken it back to the shop that put on the tires twice. The first time they told me the spare was low on air. the second time they told me the batteries in the air pressure sensors are dying and need to be replaced. I thought that sounded like a lame excuse so left the shop and called the Toyota Dealer and asked if the air pressure sensors have batteries. The service department at the Toyota dealer laughed and said no, they run off the car's battery. I called the shop back to tell them I was very disappointed and unhappy that they tried to sell me something that doesn't exist and they stood by the batteries in the sensors story and claimed they would show them to me if I would come back to the shop. Who should I believe? Replacing the batteries in tire air pressure sensors?
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The car had its first service last month but since then the ESP light has come on permanently on three separate occasions and has to be reset by turning the ignition off. Suppose I will have to book it back in -I read elsewhere it could be cause by wheel alignment or faulty connection somewhere?
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My wife was complaining of the ESC light came on and off. Rough idle. Also has a check engine lite.
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I have a 2007 F-150 that I'm having a little problem with. The tire pressure indicator light has kept coming on almost every time I drive it. I checked the tires, all register 35 pounds cold which is what it calls for. It has been going on in hot or cold weather for the past 4-5 months but will go off after I'd say 5 or 10 minutes of driving it. I really can't figure out what is going on with it. Bad sensor maybe? I looked to find something about this but couldn't or I didn't look hard enough.
2007 Ford F-150, Supercab, Lariat, 4X2, 6FT5 box,
5.4 Triton V8, black in color, gold bottom trim, 3.73 LSD,
9.75 axle, tow pckg. 0-60 recently clocked at 7.7 sec with
no tune.
Mods: Magnaflow SI/DO exhaust.
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I have a santa fe from the year 2008 and recently i had a trip where i would get tons of white smoke every time the car was at idle at the stop light. upon inspection, i saw that the coolant level was below the low line so i had it topped up and the problem disappeared. Everything was fine until today when the problem occurred so i checked the coolant level on the side of the road but the coolant level was fine and still is upon inspection when the car was cooled off. After i stopped to check the coolant level and restarting the car, the smoke was gone and did not appear again. I checked the internet for solutions and some suggest blown head gasket but many of the symptoms do not make sense in my case since the engine never overheats and the coolant level hasn't gone down in the past week.
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We have a 2007 Santa Fe ,when it rains there is a big wet spot in cargo area, we see water dripping in from overhead light by hatch door, so what to be done to rectify problem ...
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3. We bought it used with 24k on it about 5 1/2 years ago. I've uploaded a zipped mp4 of the sound that comes from the area of the AC. The sound was recorded from the passenger seat as it never seems to do it when I'm ready with the hood up.
So far the car has had 4 compressors in 72k miles. The first burnt out the clutch, as did the second a year later. This noise is intermittent, but is getting more frequent and worse. The noise started about a year ago, 3 years after the 3rd compressor install, the compressor was changed out but the noise came back 2 days later so I'm guessing it wasn't that. It only happens when the AC is engaged and doesn't change with the speed of the fan. I'm more concerned as the extended warranty is coming to an end, 75k, and the mechanics really seem stumped.
For those without audio it's a really hard noise to describe. It starts of with almost a low thump and then turns into a resonating metallic screeching. If I turn off the fan or the AC, the noise stops and I can turn them back on a few seconds later and it all sounds normal for a while.
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When I drive my 2010 santa fe. I get a noise that sounds like i have a flat tire in the back. It is intermittent and starts at any speeds. But when you stop the vehicle and start again the noise is gone. The mechanics at Hyundai replace replace a part for the all wheel drive but that did not fix the problem.
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Problem I have been noticing with my 2010 v6 Santa Fe.
I first noticed a vibration that appears to come from the drive train late last winter and only seems to happen on colder mornings. It comes across like I am driving on a rough road. If I am simply rolling without a lot of acceleration there is no vibration, but once I step on the gas and add power the vibration starts and will continue until I let off the gas. It is not an alignment issue as that has already been checked and eliminated as a cause.
Once the vehicle warms up, the problem goes away. This makes it very tough to demonstrate the problem as by the time I drive to the dealer the problem is gone. Guess Ill need to pick a cold day and leave it there overnight so they can see the problem. Had a very similar issue years ago on my old Nissan Pathfinder which was eventually traced to a the 4 wheel hub system.
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For the last two days I've had a very intermittent (tck, tck, tck) sound coming from what sounds like the glove compartment area. It has a rep rate of around three times a second and is very regular. It sounds like a relay to me. It has only lasted less than 20 seconds on each occurrence so don't have time to troubleshoot. I took that area apart and I see two 12volt 25 amp what look like relays just to the right of the glove compartment. I've left that area torn apart so if it happens again I can feel the relays and get it down to one-and or eliminate them as the cause of the noise.
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My 2007 CM Santa Fe 45K miles began acting up intermittently. We have owned it 5 years from new and never any issues whatsoever. My wife told me that first thing in the morning it made a horrible clanking noise and the entire car shuddered so she shut it off. Then it cranked and ran for days normally. The other morning I got in it and cranked it and man, it sounded like rods knocking, pistons slapping the crank, it was awful. Actually it sounded like premature or off time detonation, the engine would not idle and would die.
After a couple more tries the engine cranked and ran smoothly but with increasing idle speed and after two instances of normal cranking but idle increasing ever upward (same morning in sequence of 10 minutes or so of trying) I called AAA and had it carried to the dealer afraid oil pump giving out, timing belt jumped, bad crank / cam sensors, who knows? Oil was changed 5K ago with Hyundai toilet paper filter.
Anyway dealer found a code, something about engine torque excess - who knows - it wasn't causing the horrible cranking idling banging noise... did some ECM/ECU update, and repaired a TSB for the passenger side Airbag seat detector. They kept it over night and still could not make it occur.
My wife is really worried because honestly it sounds like it's going to throw a rod or something *I know it doesn't have them*. It's just a horrible gut wrenching noise. Dealer mechanics could not find anything wrong and they kept it overnight to crank it cold, and when we picked it up today it cranked fine.... She can't trust it anymore.
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My 2010 Santa Fe has an intermittent all window condensation problem, regardless whether the car has been idle overnight or whilst driving it has occurred on numerous occasions. In one case in the morning I had to use a towel to dry the inside windows. I have tried leaving the heater / AC on various settings but it still occurs. I have noticed that the door windows when I open / close them the seals do not touch the glass. In the short term the AC and fast windscreen/rear window buttons do clear the moisture but it does re-occur especially whilst driving...
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I have 2007 Santa Fe LTD which will intermittently not start. All electrical devices work fine but when you turn the key the starter will not engage. Keep trying the key and after 5-10-100 try's the car will start. The next time it may start on the first attempt or it might not. Sometimes it will go weeks without a problem then it will not start again. I have checked the starter relay, battery, and cables. It seems like the alarm is faulty and not letting the power get to the starter.
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I have a 2007 2.7L with 150,000 miles. Yesterday while driving at 20mph my engine all of a sudden started knocking like I lost the timing belt which I replaced 10,000 miles back, including the tensioner fully (bought as a kit off Rock auto). I parked immediately. Today we investigated a little more and what we found is that os is more like a loud knock and not a metal on metal sound. It definitely knocks faster or slower with the RPM of the engine. It even ceased for a while and the engine idles silently but then on the next restart it came back.
It even went away again with an increase in RPM but then came back at an idle or sometimes didn't. You can clearly hear it in the rear of the block. I will admit I have never changed the plugs. We can a scan on it and a misfire in #4 cylinder came up. Unfortunately my check engine light is always on because I have a bad sensor in my fuel tank that ill get to some day. So I'm not sure if that code is recent or not. I know I need to identify the location of the sound more closely before anyone touches my motor. Could it be bad gas that causes a misfire and knocking? I have had that code before and new gas fixed the misfire but there was no knocking then. I religiously change my oil every 5000 miles and just did 500 miles ago.
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