I have a 2008 petrol Santa Fe with an automatic transmission. Recently the transmission started to intermittently make a noise like a buzz. The noise most commonly occurs when first moving off in D or R and always stops when the transmission is put in Park.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3. We bought it used with 24k on it about 5 1/2 years ago. I've uploaded a zipped mp4 of the sound that comes from the area of the AC. The sound was recorded from the passenger seat as it never seems to do it when I'm ready with the hood up.
So far the car has had 4 compressors in 72k miles. The first burnt out the clutch, as did the second a year later. This noise is intermittent, but is getting more frequent and worse. The noise started about a year ago, 3 years after the 3rd compressor install, the compressor was changed out but the noise came back 2 days later so I'm guessing it wasn't that. It only happens when the AC is engaged and doesn't change with the speed of the fan. I'm more concerned as the extended warranty is coming to an end, 75k, and the mechanics really seem stumped.
For those without audio it's a really hard noise to describe. It starts of with almost a low thump and then turns into a resonating metallic screeching. If I turn off the fan or the AC, the noise stops and I can turn them back on a few seconds later and it all sounds normal for a while.
When I drive my 2010 santa fe. I get a noise that sounds like i have a flat tire in the back. It is intermittent and starts at any speeds. But when you stop the vehicle and start again the noise is gone. The mechanics at Hyundai replace replace a part for the all wheel drive but that did not fix the problem.
View 1 RepliesMy 2007 CM Santa Fe 45K miles began acting up intermittently. We have owned it 5 years from new and never any issues whatsoever. My wife told me that first thing in the morning it made a horrible clanking noise and the entire car shuddered so she shut it off. Then it cranked and ran for days normally. The other morning I got in it and cranked it and man, it sounded like rods knocking, pistons slapping the crank, it was awful. Actually it sounded like premature or off time detonation, the engine would not idle and would die.
After a couple more tries the engine cranked and ran smoothly but with increasing idle speed and after two instances of normal cranking but idle increasing ever upward (same morning in sequence of 10 minutes or so of trying) I called AAA and had it carried to the dealer afraid oil pump giving out, timing belt jumped, bad crank / cam sensors, who knows? Oil was changed 5K ago with Hyundai toilet paper filter.
Anyway dealer found a code, something about engine torque excess - who knows - it wasn't causing the horrible cranking idling banging noise... did some ECM/ECU update, and repaired a TSB for the passenger side Airbag seat detector. They kept it over night and still could not make it occur.
My wife is really worried because honestly it sounds like it's going to throw a rod or something *I know it doesn't have them*. It's just a horrible gut wrenching noise. Dealer mechanics could not find anything wrong and they kept it overnight to crank it cold, and when we picked it up today it cranked fine.... She can't trust it anymore.
I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey that is making an intermitent buzzing noise that appears to be coming from the dashboard. It sounds like an old speedometer going bad but this car should have a computerized speedometer. It appears to be weather related as it does not happen in the winter. When it happens, the buzzing is reduced if you slow down the car a bit. It can vary in intensity and can get very loud. I took the car to the dealer and they want to take the dashboard off....
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 santa fe v6 all AWD. It has already had a used trans installed about 3 years ago. Just the other day the front main seal in the trans starts pouring. I took it to a transmission guy it cost me about 600 to have one put in it, he said that was the the problem he got it fixed he drove it and it was all good. Get in it driving it home and everything goes fine. Then after about 5 or 6 miles the trans goes crazy, so I am wondering whats up. I get out and look and its out of fluid because the seal done blew back out. I call him he said he fixed it not his problem it worked when it left his shop.S o my question is what would make the seal need replaced again 5 miles down the road is it a torque converter problem, or something in the trans bad, or did the guy just not do it right. He told me to bring it back and he would look at it but I've done spent all i had on it for him to fix it.
View 2 RepliesWhile driving the other day the automatic transmission in my 2003 Santa Fe slipped into neutral. I pushed the car home wherre it currently sits. I checked for error codes and found none. There is a grinding noise when I shift from any gear into park.
View 1 RepliesHad a buzzing on my dual control and temp panel. Buzzing finally stopped, and now I have no control over temp on passenger side. It blow cool air regardless of the temp I put or taking it off of dual. Doesn't matter, it just blows cool air. I can have it set off dual at a high temp, driver side will be hot, passenger side will be cool. What broke?(blend door?)
View 3 RepliesI just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
View 2 RepliesFor about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away.
My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away. My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
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I found two times the cruise control auto on by itself while I was driving on the road.
View 2 RepliesSantafe 2008, Manual Climate Control Switch. Can i disable AC "turn on" when i switch to front defrost.
in modern Hyundai cars, they can disable this operation by pressing 5 times on Intake (recirculation) button.
I have just changed my transmission because the old one failed me and i notice that it makes a buzzing noise. It only makes this noise while in drive or reverse but when parked the noise goes away. My car runs perfectly normal but doesn't seem to "sound" as if it did. Its a 2000 lincoln ls. V8 4d sedan....
View 7 RepliesI am having a strange issue with this vehicle that the dealership can't figure out but it doesn't surprise since here they are a bunch of idiots there anyways....well here it goes....when i start the vehicle there is a fairly loud "buzzing" noise coming from the drl module mounted on the front right side fender, the module feels like the relay inside is clicking extremely fast but not actually staying on, the drl's do not come on however the high beam indicator on the dash is illuminated. This will go away when i turn on the low beams, but i still have no high beams. There is a slight flicker within all the interior lights and headlights which leads me to believe there is a ground issue. I am unable to obtain any schematics for this part of the electrical system to be able to back probe and try to isolate the issue.... The vehicle seems to be fine as long as you turn the low beams on as soon as you start it other then the slight flicker in the lighting inside and out.....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 3ld with 195 000 miles so about 300 000 km - I think it may be beneficial to change the transmission fluid as I have no plans to change the car.
View 3 RepliesI have had my Santa Fe for 3 months now and have just noticed recently (due to the cold wet weather) that when it is raining my windscreen fogs up when the climate control is set to auto. This never happened in my previous car (VW Golf GTI). I always drive with climate control set to auto and temp set to 23 degrees C. When the windscreen fogs up I have to set A/C to on to demist it. The temperature is then totally different. I can only get a clear windscreen with A/C on, no matter what mode. E.g. If I just have front demister with no A/C then I fog up. If I have blowers set to windscreen and no A/C I fog up. Having A/C on with any mode is fine! When the windscreen is clear and I set the climate control back to auto then the windscreen fogs up almost immediately again.
This seems a bit rubbish to me. I would have thought that having the climate control set to auto is all that is required (like my previous car). I don't want to drive with A/C on when it is raining and auto when it is not. I just want to keep it in one mode.
2004 santa fe ... I found the mirror mount gets loose so I used a piece of rubber tubing (vacuum line) and put it between the windshield and the support arm of the mirror. Mazda trucks early 90's uses same idea to prevent mirror reflection vibration. How to get rid of that buzzing noise.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2010 Santa Fe with 52,000 miles. The car looks great and runs fine once warmed up. Problem came after I got it home. I have found that it shifts rough when first started for about 5 miles. After that it runs great. From a quick search I have found 2 TSB's that may apply, 10-AT-006 and 11-AT-011-2.
View 36 RepliesOn Sunday, I was driving on the highway and noticed an intermittent hum/rumble which seemed like it was coming from the front of the car. At first, I thought it was due to the road quality where you encounter cuts/cracks in the road which could cause similar hum/rumble. The condition of the road changed over to a brand new smooth surface for several miles. I noticed that the same hum/rumble was still there.
I'm not sure how else to describe this?... The tires would go through several rotations before each hum/rumble. For example, x = tire rotations and y = hum/rumble.
xxx y xxx y xxx y xxx y ...very similar to driving on rumble strips that have been placed on the road.
When I got off the highway I also noticed that this hum/rumble would occur during regular driving speeds.
I checked tire pressure all around and all was fine. Took a quick peek underneath and could not spot anything out of the ordinary.
Problem I have been noticing with my 2010 v6 Santa Fe.
I first noticed a vibration that appears to come from the drive train late last winter and only seems to happen on colder mornings. It comes across like I am driving on a rough road. If I am simply rolling without a lot of acceleration there is no vibration, but once I step on the gas and add power the vibration starts and will continue until I let off the gas. It is not an alignment issue as that has already been checked and eliminated as a cause.
Once the vehicle warms up, the problem goes away. This makes it very tough to demonstrate the problem as by the time I drive to the dealer the problem is gone. Guess Ill need to pick a cold day and leave it there overnight so they can see the problem. Had a very similar issue years ago on my old Nissan Pathfinder which was eventually traced to a the 4 wheel hub system.