Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Hitch Rattles Against Muffler
Apr 8, 2013
I had a hitch installed about a year ago by U-Haul. Probably my first mistake. Although "custom" ordered it rattles against the muffler. They have been unable or unwilling to fix it. It appears that the muffler needs to be a bit lower. How to get rid of the noise.
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Have the APR RSC exhaust - developed rattles, specifically in one of the RSC muffler chambers?
I've had my exhaust installed for almost 6 months. About 2-3 months ago, I noticed a rattle from under the car somewhere. I finally got underneath the car a few weeks ago to check it out and the rattle is most definitely coming from the rear RSC muffler (right before the exhaust tips). I'm positive that's the source and I'm guessing that the welds inside for the baffles / walls that compose the RSC technology failed, and a piece is now rattling around inside. It only rattles at low RPM, but it's loud (especially in a parking garage) and super embarrassing.
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It only happens when the roof is open and it's as if a screw is a little loose.
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2010 ES 350 with 103k miles on it. I noticed what appeared to be oil in the muffler, it was visible on both sides. It was raining so perhaps the rain was just getting into the muffler tip and cleaning the carbon. The engine was very smooth, and nothing seemed out of the ordinary.
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I was driving down the PA turnpike and heard rear-end noise. I pulled over and this piece was hanging down on the right side in front of the rear tire and at the back edge of the rear door, right where the muffler is. I did a search and found this to be a common problem with the 330s but did not see anything on the 350s. I drove another 500 miles to the beach and then back home without any noticeable affects, but not that I looked underneath.
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So I go into my garage last night and see a puddle under the rear of my car. Looks like H20 so I look under and the leak appears to be coming from the right muffler along the seam line. No dents so doesn't appear something hit it unless of course when my wife took it the other day she ran over a curb or something! I rush over to the dealer and head tech says looks like the muffler seam looks to be pulling apart? He says condensation may have eroded metal and caused seam to go.18k miles 15 months old I cannot imagine this happening. Any ways got a NX F-sport as a loaner - already miss the LS! I guess this may take some time as he said they have to get Lexus involved. I will just pack the miles on the NX!
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I have been experiencing some unwanted noises coming from the rear of my SF. I finally had the opportunity to ride in the back seat while someone else drove. I was able to determine that one rattle/squeak was coming from the styrofoam pieces in the storage area. I pushed the entire set as far to the rear as possible. Even though they only moved a fraction of an inch, the noise stopped.
Another noise is coming from the seat backs. Specifically, the seams where each seat back touches each other. They create a squeeking noise as the seat backs vibrate. I can make it stop by folding the middle section down, and therefore it doesn't touch the seat back on either side. I'd like to not have that be my solution though. I'm thinking some lubrication, such as silicon spray, on the surfaces that touch each other would stop it. I have no clue what silicone spray would do to leather in the long term though.
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For the last several weeks, I've noticed that my accelerator clicks and rattles when I tap it.
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Ok on my 07 camry se, my right front passenger window rattles when in the up position. I noticed after the car has been sitting for awhile, that it's quiet but when I decide to open the window and then close it it starts to rattle. Now this happens when driving over bumps or have the music turned up.
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The back of my passenger seat rattles, resonating when going over bumps (and not weighted with a passenger). I've lifted my back on the driver's seat and it doesn't seem to rattle over the same bumps. How to tighten it up?
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My center speaker grill in the middle of the dashboard makes rattle noises when the temperature drops. So in the summer the parts expand to be tight and no noise. As soon as the temp drops <60F, the parts shrink slightly and the speaker grill makes all kinds of creaking, rattling noises as the car goes over bumps, goes around turns, etc.
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Picked up a 2007 Lexus GS350 last weekend. Immaculate condition inside and out with 60K miles. Silver on Black. I was originally looking at a G35S, but the second I sat in the GS I knew there was no comparison. So unfortunately, the previous owner of the vehicle didn't fix the rattles.
I've searched the forums, and there's obviously tons of threads on fixing the rattles. Specifically, I looked here: [URL] .....
However, I'm still confused as to where PRECISELY I stuff felt between the windshield and dashboard. Is it drivers side to passenger side or just a section of it. I'd rather not stuff felt in places where it's needed on my brand new GS and potentially cause other rattles. So couple of questions:
- From where to where do I stuff felt between the dashboard and windshield?
- What's the ventilation cowl squeak? How is that different between the instrument panel rattle, dashboard chirp and central console creak as referenced in this thread: [URL] .....
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When ever my Camry its a rough road the trunk rattles like their is something moving around in it, however there is nothing in the trunk, I checked to make sure the spare was secure and it is. What could be the problem?
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I commute about 70 minutes each way daily and sometimes listen to my music pretty loud. Occasionally after almost an hour of listening at mid volume level it will stop the sound. This is the Sound II package. The stereo is still on, and the time elapsed count stops.
I thought maybe the amp was shutting down from getting too hot, but that can't be it since if I eject and reinsert it will play again with no problem.
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I'm trying to retrofit the OEM Trailer hitch. I'm stuck at the control box wiring. I tried finding the info I need, however I couldn't find it and the people who I've asked elsewhere haven't responded to me. I need the Part Numbers of the 5NO-055-204-NA trailer hitch Electrical Installation Kit's pieces. Don't worry, if your Tiguan has an OEM trailer hitch, the wiring should be there. And by there, I mean under the steering wheel column, by the pedals.
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My MK6 GTI is currently in for service & inspection - however, after downgrading my tune to Stage I+ to pass emissions & for readiness to be set (Unitronic), my shop (CBTuning) noticed a code in the system - P2185. G83 Sensor Outlet Flange - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor 2 Circuit.
- Low coolant level
- Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
- Stuck or leaking thermostat
- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Now, once noticed, the CBTuning advised me to have the car taken to my dealer for a warranty job/repair (Fred Beans VW). My technician went ahead and replaced the corresponding sensor, the harness for the sensor, and rewired everything up - surely enough, the code is still hanging there in the system.
With the tune having been done via a bench flash, I experienced and issue with my original ECU (OEM that was installed with purchase) and Unitronic came through in the clutch and replaced it with another ECU. What my technician noticed is that 'OLD' is written on the replacement ECU which raises concern and curiosity. My technician even setup a new overlay to test the new sensor directly to the ECU and the corresponding pin but alas, the code still refuses to go away.
My car will not pass inspection since readiness will not run with a static fault in the ECM.
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My hitch is rusting so bad that I can pull it off in pieces. Surprisingly it seems to be the only major rust on my EX. I crawled under it the other day to check out how it is removed and I only saw half of 4 bolts. Those bolts look like they are under the fuel tank and I can't get my socket onto them.
My question is, do I need to drop the fuel tank to remove the hitch, and also is there anything else I should do while the fuel tank is down.(Besides replacing the hitch with a new one.)
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I am interested in a 2004 and wanted to know if I add the curt hitch .. Or maybe oem one Has the curves cover and not notched or flat does that mean it should be made after 5/2004 and could use the hitch that is tubular? Not sure if the curt version matter for any of these
Also I heard they may be prewired for towing, how to look for besides the trans cooler, if they don't have this then it seems too much work.. and I should stay away?
Also doesn't have nav, so I wanted to know if it is harder to add aftermarket screen to non nav than one with factory nav?
It seems like this is a base trim do you know in 2004 what feature might be missing from this base model That I am "missing out" on?
Found a pic of the actual car under bumper built 9/04 Does it look normal. I think I see the towing wiring box there.. was the hitch port installed option? But it looks like it's ready for one.
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I will be installing a Euro-type of hitch to my car and for that the rear bumper needs to be removed.
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It's an '03 Odyssey with 116K miles that has developed a hitch when shifting from second to third. It feels like an uncoordinated manual shift when the clutch is put in before the accelerator is lifted. Car revs 500 rpm before completing the shift. This only happens under load, such as when accelerating hard from a stop or moderate acceleration going up a hill. Not willing yet to let the dealer tell me I just need a new transmission and so few places deal with automatic repairs.
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A buddy of mine ripped the hitch off his excursion due to rust. Anything can be fixed. I will try to get a picture of it.
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