Ever since passing on an opportunity to trade in our 07 Santa fe for something new, and deciding to keep this car until the end, we have come across a few electrical issues.
The highest speed setting on the windshield wipers have stopped working. The wipers just freeze. The drivers door lock no longer auto locks when you hit the lock button on the way out of the car.
Front wipers stopped working while driving. trying to trouble shoot problem. wondering what fuses to check?
View 2 RepliesBlower only works on high speed. From what I have read the problem is either the switch or the motor resistor. I am leaning toward the resistor which is behind the glove box. Where can I find directions for removing the Glove box?
View 1 RepliesI had this item of concern as a response to another thread but I thought I'd open up a new thread and see if I could get any more attention.
I bought a used GLS and upon initial drives I have noticed a high speed vibration that seems to come from the rear (I don't feel any in the steering). In the colder weather recently I've noticed a pronounced vibration at a lower speed (just before shift points). between 2nd and 3rd. This seems to be worse with short drives or in morning.
Vibration seems to be worse just after a tighter right turns or even some left turns. I notice the most vibration right around 25mph. I also get it with moderate acceleration into a certain torque range. Like driving at 45 and accelerating up to 60. What is going on? It seems like it is linked to acceleration (torque) and possible pressure from turns. CV joint / axle? Wheel bearing? It seems like a tire would be worse as speed increased and more consistent.
We have a 2006 CM later model Santa Fe 2.2 CDX+ 7 seater. Engine light came on last week and since then car does not shift into 4th gear. It revs very high upto 5000rpm with no increase in speed, it's limited to 30-35mph.
I had this problem back in 2010 where the Hyundai franchise identified a fault with the EGR which was replaced under warranty, and then a year later a problem with the fuel sensor which was also replaced.
I had the local garage check the EGR and give it a clean based on the steps provided by a member here - no change. So I took it to Hyundai but this time, they are reporting fault codes P0733 and P0744 which point to transmission problems. I just had a call from the garage who say they believe the gear synchromesh is jamming thus not allowing the change of gears. He said that the diagnostics report that the car is sending the gear change command correctly (pulse generator ok) so does not believe it is an electrical fault.
Both of my 2011 Santa Fe's headlamps (high and low) are not working. The fuses seem to be ok (ohm meter checked) and so do the relays (swapped with other relays). When I switch the lights on to the first position, I hear the relay for the 'parking' lights switch on and those lights work. When I move it to the headlight or auto positions, I don't hear the headlight relays click in.
Is there a schematic/parts location/troubleshooting diagram anywhere (they are not on the HMA web site)? Is there a known connector/wiring issue? I just found a diagram for the multifunction switch on steering wheel, with a pin out of the connector, but that's all I have. This will be hard to trace without some idea of where the wires are going.
I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix. The wipers only work on high speed and do not settle when they are turned off.
View 3 RepliesMy father in law has a 2011 Prius -3 - with 135,000 miles on it. He has an interesting issue. The front windshield wipers work on low and medium. When he tries to put them on high, the wipers barely moves. When I drop the stalk back at med or low and it works as if nothing is wrong. I have checked the 30amp fuse and it looks fine. I do not hear any grinding or noise when the wipers are working. I think it could be the motor. However before I go out and purchase the motor, I wanted to make sure there was anything else I could be missing... The dealer wanted 340 for parts and install.. .I know I can do the job myself as I have worked on their other Prius - 2005 with 240,000 miles and counting.
View 10 RepliesI have an 2007 v8 in campy white..barely 10k miles on it only one issue my wipers stopped working twice..both times a loose nut fixed by the dealer..while washing the other day i noticed minor scratches behind the door handle on the outside.
View 3 RepliesSo I am pretty lucky that we have had warm weather in SoCal this past week as my windshield wipers suddenly stopped working. Checked the fuses, car alarm arms fine (so no hood up problem), and back wiper works. A call to VW says that my car isn't included in the wiper recall. So, I figured I would check here before taking the car to the shop.
View 1 RepliesI just got myself a UL 2007 Lexus ES 350 last month.
So here are my constraints:
1. My Emergency Flashers are not working, however the pointers work. (I have checked the fuses and they are fine)
2. My voice recognition seems not to like my accent, when I say "setup" it plays satellite radio (is there a way to play around with the setting for voice recognition ?)
3. When I am on rough roads, I get a lot of feedback on the steering wheel, what should I be worried about here?
4. My Wipers are supposed to be rain sensitive but they don't seem to work. Is there a setting I am missing?
5. My Steering Wheel doesn't go up and down, it only goes front and back. Rather than go up and down, it jerks slightly to the left or right, depending on where. What could be wrong?
2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 accent gls. I use the car for deliveries so a lot of stopping/starting. when the car is hot, the AC compressor will shut off after 5 seconds, and not re-engage until about 20 seconds, then only on for 5, so not keeping cool air. I noticed when I turn the AC on, the condenser fan (i think) kicks into high speed so I assume that's what it should do, but when the issue is happening, it does not go into high speed. the shop I went to wasn't able to determine the problem. they checked pressure and evacuated the system. when it works, it blows cold as it should.
View 3 RepliesIve had my R32 for a couple months and the AC worked fine until the other day. I went on a cruise up the mountains with some friends. Had the AC on until I got off the highway. Turned it off for the spirited drive, nothing crazy just spirited. Temps were only 70-ish degrees. Drove up to the base of Mt Evans road, about 10,750 feet and then back down.
Parked for lunch for about an hour, got back on the highway to cruise home and the AC is blowing hot. I didn't hit anything during the drive, the roads were for the most part smooth, the temp gauge didn't budge. Now the aux fan is stuck on hi. I can park overnight, engine is completely cold, start it up and the fan immediately goes on full blast and stays on the entire time the car runs.
I know VRs make a lot of heat, do they have issues with the AC system? Is this some common thing I should have searched for? I have vagcom and can look around but don't really know what I am doing with it so I don't want to mess anything up. Pics for clicks.....
My 2006 (new shape) Santa Fe experiencing heater fan problems. Started off with it all working fine, except it wouldn't turn off the fan completely. Now the fan will only come on when at max speed. I've taken it to the Hyundai dealer and they recommended changing the heater control unit on the dashboard. I managed to find two second hand units but each time these didn't work - they lit up ok but no power to the fan was delivered.
View 10 RepliesPurchased a 2009 CPO from my local Lexus dealer 4 months ago. Had vibration in seat when driving at highway speed. Have had it in 5 times to be fixed. 4 times for road force balancing, fixing any imperfection in each wheel, etc with no success. Drove with GM this week and he agreed with the vibration and they put 4 new tires on (Michelin Pilot) - I paid for 2, they paid for 2. They said it fixed it. Drove it home (20 miles on highway) - did not work at all - still vibration in seat (rear end). Have put car in neutral at highway speed (drive shaft vibration?) but did not make a difference.
View 4 RepliesMy car santa fe 2009/ 4WD / 2,7 / around 70,000 kms. Around a week ago, I noticed some vibration, that I can feel it mainly on the gas pedal. I can assume that the vibration came from the front of the car and just at low speed, like below the 40km/h. Also I feel that when took my foot of the gas, the vibration gone.
View 7 RepliesFan blower will only run on high speed intermittently.
View 1 RepliesMy 2011 6-speed automatic AWD santa fe was in a front end collision (T-boned a car that pulled out into the road then stopped) but was still drivable, just bumper damage. About a week later while waiting on the front bumper to come in, the starter died mechanically (of course, no relation, according to the shop and insurance adjuster since even though the starter is about 12" behind the point of impact, there was no undercarriage damage, ie, not related to accident). So when they got the part in, they replaced the bumper and the starter.
When I picked up the car from the shop, the check engine light came on when I got out on the road. On the road, the car had almost no acceleration. The engine RPM went up, almost to 7k but the car was moving slowly. This was on the on-ramp of the freeway and very disconcerting. It did make it up to about 40mph initially and then on the slight incline, took me about 30 seconds to make it to 60mph. I got off the freeway and pulled into an Oreilly auto and had them read the code. It came across as the phantom P200A (something about MAF sensor but usually not a true error in this make/model). I called the dealership, took it back. The guy looked at it while I waited, brought it around, said it was fixed, just had to have a code cleared and the check engine light went out. His experience was simply driving it in first, maybe second gear in the lot. He said it was the ECM, and this was typical as it had the battery disconnected for a couple days, the ECM needed to "relearn" the controls. He said give it a few weeks and it would be fine.
I got it out on the road, no more check engine light, but the acceleration/rev situation was still present. It has been a month, and it hasn't gotten better or worse. I can drive the 6-speed in auto around town, though it shifts higher, around 4k RPM if I am at all accelerating, or on even a slight incline. I can put the pedal to the floor while driving in auto, and it drops out of gear and into neutral, at least the way it feels, revs up, would red-line if i didn't come off the gas, but never accelerates, it acts like it drops into neutral. If I am driving with the car in manual shifting mode and choose where I want it to shift, it shifts fine, doesn't feel like it drops to neutral, however I can floor the pedal and it still only slowly accelerates, especially on an incline. It seems to bog down around 40mph or so, and take forever to get above that. Downshifting manually raises the RPM as expected, but no increase in acceleration.
Now I have a check engine light on again, and am taking the car back to the repair shop this week without clearing the light so maybe they can see something else that may have cleared at the auto part store last time. Basically, I have read multiple causes/symptoms which partially match this, but nothing exactly.
1. Limp home mode on ECM
2. Throttle position sensor
3. MAF sensor (or whatever the 2011 Santa Fe has equivalent)
4. TCM (Transmission Control Module)
There was absolutely nothing wrong with the car before the wreck, then the starter. No shifting/idling issues. I am wondering what a repair shop replacing a bumper and transmission could have done, that would create this problem. The transmission couldn't have died between working fine, won't start, and here, your starter and bumper are fixed but the tranny is FUBAR. I am thinking it absolutely HAS to be a sensor or computer controller of some sort, but not much on the web showing which sensors are which and where they are in a 2011 Santa Fe.
I believe the MAF/throttle body has to be removed to get to the starter (directly below it if I am not mistaken). One last thing, it is an AWD... it was towed from my house to the dealership with all 4 wheels up, as required for a AWD vehicle. If the shop pulled it from the lot to the garage, a few hundred feet at most, with 2 wheels up and 2 down, could that cause all this?
I need to know if this is considered "normal" behavior of the transmission. This cold morning while driving in traffic the car just jerked really hard while shifting from 3rd to 2nd and as described in other threads its like someone rear ended the car.
It has only 2650 km, it's a 2012 2.4 6sp automatic 4wd Santa Fe, should I waste my time going to the dealer? It only happened once, no engine light no nothing. Could it be just a "glitch" in the ECM? I read some other threads before posting, but they were a bit older. Has experienced such a shifting bang under low speed with so little mileage?
I have a 2007 2.7-liter Santa Fe with 71,000 miles. I experience intermittent rough idle and rough low speed driving. It seems that in town driving will trigger these conditions. And when it's warmer outside that oppose to colder temperatures.
In most cases I can turn the car off, and after 2-5 minutes, start it right back up and the problem with go away.
The OBD codes are P0276 and P0306.
I have replaced the coil and injector on #6 cylinder.
The #6 spark plug is dry when the problem occurs.
I had the dealer update the ECM software