Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: High RPM And Idle On Startup
Nov 20, 2015
As the weather is getting colder I noticing again my RPM's taking longer to drop down to 1200 or less. Upon startup the engine rev's to 2000 and drops in 2 sec quickly to around 1500 (all these are based on the crude gauge readings, not a digital tach).
I don't like high RPM cold starts in the first place and why its stays just around 1500 and lower for about 2 minutes before it lowers to around 1200RPM. I don't like engaging the transmission at those high RPM's. My other vehicles did nothing like this and the increased start RPM was down 1000 within a minute.
What sensor is having the computer run it like that and not let it drop faster. I doubt its the O2 sensor since its the same on a hot day just doesn't rev up to 2k but 1500 or so. Jabs at the gas pedal doesn't work it drop any sooner either.
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2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
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Even on a warm day, when I "cold start" the car....the revs hang high for a long time....at least a good minute or two. This is my first PZEV(VW) engine though--CPRA--so I'm assuming it's for the emissions? With the intake & exhaust I have on...it's obviously A LOT more noticable.
For the first 10-15 seconds, there is a HUGE sucking sound for the SAI pump and then that shuts off....but then it still screams along at 1,200-1,500 RPM's for another minute or two until it'll FINALLY settle down to idle.
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I've got a 2003 ford f-150 with a 4.6l 150000 miles. when it is started the rpms are at 2000 for about a min. and a half then it drops to normal when its started cold. when started at operating temp. The rpms are at 2000 for about 30 to 45 sec then drop to normal. The iac, upper and lower intake gaskets, intake run controller valve, dfbe, low intake and shield, coolant temp. sensor, intake air temp. sensor, egr, egr regulator valve, maf, ecm have all been swapped out no vacuum leaks all line in good condition tps voltage reading of 0.84v...
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe that I am getting road ready for my son, The engine has recently started idling very high, 2500 RPM at startup. I disconnected the IAC servo and it drops right down to about 900 RPM. I replaced the IAC with a brand new one and it does the same thing at startup, 2500+ RPM. Checked vacuum hoses / tubes. I replaced 2 crack / dry vacuum hoses. Same problem for a while, then idle went down to about 1250. Started to drive it, test ride. while accelerating, seems OK as soon as I take my foot off of the gas, idle goes to 2500 - 3000 RPM until I apply brakes and then it drops back down to 1000 or so. (SOUNDS LIKE A VACUUM LEAK PROBLEM. I CANT FIND IT, IVE BEEN THROUGH 2 CANS OF CARB CLEANER AND HOURS OF REPLACING ALL VACUUM HOSES.)
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I'm the loving owner of an amazing '02 RSX. She is just about to hit 100K, and has been completely trouble free. This past sunday, I started it up in the morning and immediately noticed a semi-harsh vibration, with high idle speed (1500ish, normal is 500). If I give it gas, the vibration and rumble noise goes away, but if it put it in reverse, it seems to get worse. After a few miles of driving, the idle speed returns to normal and seems to feel/sound fine. Also of note, if i hit a dip in the road, i get a vibration and engine sound that resembles that of a flat tire. I know this sounds random, but it's the best I can do at describing it. There are no check engine lights, temp is fine, and otherwise seems to be driving great. I initially thought bad spark plug or air filter, but have since thought of vacuum pressure or O2 sensor, maybe even an engine bolt break (from the sound it makes driving into a dip). Could this be as simple as getting a bad batch of gas?
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My question is what could cause a high idle?I have a 95 Chevy pickup 4x4 with a 5.7... Recently the lower radiator hose fell came off the radiator, dumping the liquids all over the street. The motor shut down, and every time we went to start it there would be a loud whining/spinning noise. We thought that the motor seized, so we pulled the plugs, turned the motor by the crank bolt.Turned out that the starter went bad, the spindle and bendex werent catching on the flywheel.
After examining the flywheel teeth, and gapping the plugs to the recommended manufacture gap, (they werent when we pulled them), we got a new starter installed. It started right up! But it ran at a high idle, around 1500-2000 RPM. I did not have a chance to really let it warm up (it was cold and raining). Now there is a gray flexhose that is running from the air filter housing down to the exhaust manifold. If i remember correctly, it was not seated very well when I took it off. Could it be causing too much of a vacuum?
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Bought 2009 santa fe new [3.3]. after cold start up tac is moving up and down and it seems to be missing. After temp is reached tac is steady but there still seem to be a hesitation when driving. 21,000 miles on vehicle. could it be a bad tbs?
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Per the instructions I used upfitter #4 and a 21k resistor. High idle works, slight delay and gradual ramp up to 1150 rpm, but why does the wiper turn on for just one wipe now at startup?
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Twice this week our 2009 SantaFe (3.3l) had a squeal from the engine upon cold startup. The first time it was very cold (-20C or so) and this was louder and longer than the second time (-10C or so). The squeal lasted only a few seconds and trailed off to nothing. Each time the heater controls were set on defrost (fyi). In order of likely suspects, I suspect one of the following:
-compressor engaging and causing sudden increase in resistance on the belt or compressor engagement clutch noisy
-idler pulley for some reason causing belt to slip at first, but don't suspect idler bearing as noise disappears right away
-belt slippage due to resistance somewhere else--e.g. water pump or alternator.
This may not happen when I take the vehicle in for its next scheduled maintenance as by then the weather will likely be warmer. This has 76000 km on the clock.
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While we continue to enjoy our recently acquired Mineral Gray 2011 Santa Fe, I have noted a momentary engine noise upon startup after it has been shut down for say 2 hours or more.
The noise reminds me of having an oil filter with a malfunctioning or absent drain back valve where by the bearings will complain for 2-3 seconds until oil pressure rebuilds
The SF has but 20.7K miles on it to date. Do we know of this is usual for the V6, or should I be concerned and planning a dealer visit?
I love the power of the V6! We test drove a 4 cylinder model first thinking that was the way to go for economy reasons. I found this one with such low mileage, AWD, and the V6 at a great price so we jumped on it.
I am a little disappointed though that the AWD does not function "full time" like that on my 04 Dodge Durango. The SF runs rings around the Durango in the mpg department though.
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For the past year or so my Santa Fe (49,000KM) the engine will knock for 5-45 seconds when I start it up after its been sitting a while. I asked the dealer and they said this is "normal" and cannot be adjusted.
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We have a 2011 Santa Fe GLS with 3000 km on her. 3.5L with 6spd Shiftronic transmission. Had a "jolting" feeling when first start up after sitting for 4 hours? Of course this doesn't happen every time but more often than not.
We will turn ignition, CUV will start and then a "jolt", like you had high RPM and slammed in gear. Not lurching forward or reverse, but a "bump". Of course that is what it feels like but it happens within 1 second of start-up.
I think it may have something to do with the transmission but not sure. Maybe line pressure too high and torque converter "jolting/jumping/bumping" ....
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My 2008 Santa Fe 3.3 with 18,000 miles, developed an annoying surging when first put into gear after sitting overnight. I must keep my foot firmly on the brake as I back out of the driveway. If I press gently on the brake I can feel the car jerk or surge and show higher than normal rpms on tach. The jerkiness will go away entirely after a few miles and the rpms will return to normal at idle at a stoplight or stop sign. Is this something that would be covered under my factory warranty? Car was purchased Jan. 2009. I also notice that when the car starts in the morning it goes to a very fast idle. Is that normal? I would think that with the way the oil filter is mounted that the engine might have to wait for oil to return to the filter before it can get to the engine. What could be the cause of my problem? And is it likely my warranty should cover the repairs?
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I have a 2011 santa fe limited with the 3.5 and 35k miles that has a noisy timing chain rattle upon start up after sitting for a few hours,it's my understanding that the cause is no oil pressure to the tensioner because the oil drains back into the oil pan after sitting for a while. Is there a solution for this situation like a spring loaded tensioner-it seems to me that replacing the tensioner and chain does not solve the problem.
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To start off with I am not car smart! I have a 2008 Santa Fe 3.3L V6. Last year about this time (December) I had problems with the vehicle upon start up would be miss firing and the check engine light would come on. I would turn the vehicle off and restart and it would be fine and not happen again sometimes for a week and sometimes for months. I hooked it up to the computer and found that it was missing on the #6 cylinder. I had the coil pack replaced and that seemed to fix the problem (replaced spring 2011). About a week ago it started doing the same thing (December 1). Upon initial start up when the car is cold and the outside air is very cold it started missing again and having a rough idle. Would turn of the car and restart and would run fine but check engine light would come on.
Hooked it up to the computer once again and it read random misfire. This has happened twice now in two weeks with the same reading each time. Always when it is cold (engine and outside temp) and seems to reset itself when turned off.
I spoke with a mechanic who recently had this same issue with a different vehicle and after trying many things replaced the engine coolant temp sensor and that did the trick. He said it was a cheap start therefore i bought the part and now am looking to replace it. The only problem being i am car dumb and cant find it. I have done many searches and the diagrams i have found don't do me any justice. The past posts on here have given pictures of older models that dont match what i am looking at. It probably is right in front of my face. Any picture of a 2008 that will show the correct area I should be looking at? The vehicle only has about 57,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2010 santa fe ,when I push the remote start button on the fob the park lights blink 2 times and no attempt to start I checked the rear hatch switch, door switches and the hood switch and they are working. What is the troubleshooting procedure for the remote start system.
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2011 Santa Fe 3.5 L
I've isolated this rattle down to the cam phaser( CVVT) in the right cylinder head. It rattles bad for 2-3 secs on cold start or after it sits for 3 hours.
I've put in 5w20 synthetic oil and synthetic Lucas additive and it cleared up the noise for short interval start ups.
I changed the cam phaser in the right head with a used one ( 40k ) but it didn't make a difference. I should change out the attaching cam as well.
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I have santafe 3.5 2012 4WD , it's 51K on odometer, the problem when cold startup , Noise and small vibrate form front side , its look like from gears
When put to reverse (R) sound is louder and strong vibration from front side, all this problem gone when drive about 15 minutes.
I have visit 3 local shop they check the engine, gear box, everything normal, no check indicator appears.
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2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
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My 2011 6-speed automatic AWD santa fe was in a front end collision (T-boned a car that pulled out into the road then stopped) but was still drivable, just bumper damage. About a week later while waiting on the front bumper to come in, the starter died mechanically (of course, no relation, according to the shop and insurance adjuster since even though the starter is about 12" behind the point of impact, there was no undercarriage damage, ie, not related to accident). So when they got the part in, they replaced the bumper and the starter.
When I picked up the car from the shop, the check engine light came on when I got out on the road. On the road, the car had almost no acceleration. The engine RPM went up, almost to 7k but the car was moving slowly. This was on the on-ramp of the freeway and very disconcerting. It did make it up to about 40mph initially and then on the slight incline, took me about 30 seconds to make it to 60mph. I got off the freeway and pulled into an Oreilly auto and had them read the code. It came across as the phantom P200A (something about MAF sensor but usually not a true error in this make/model). I called the dealership, took it back. The guy looked at it while I waited, brought it around, said it was fixed, just had to have a code cleared and the check engine light went out. His experience was simply driving it in first, maybe second gear in the lot. He said it was the ECM, and this was typical as it had the battery disconnected for a couple days, the ECM needed to "relearn" the controls. He said give it a few weeks and it would be fine.
I got it out on the road, no more check engine light, but the acceleration/rev situation was still present. It has been a month, and it hasn't gotten better or worse. I can drive the 6-speed in auto around town, though it shifts higher, around 4k RPM if I am at all accelerating, or on even a slight incline. I can put the pedal to the floor while driving in auto, and it drops out of gear and into neutral, at least the way it feels, revs up, would red-line if i didn't come off the gas, but never accelerates, it acts like it drops into neutral. If I am driving with the car in manual shifting mode and choose where I want it to shift, it shifts fine, doesn't feel like it drops to neutral, however I can floor the pedal and it still only slowly accelerates, especially on an incline. It seems to bog down around 40mph or so, and take forever to get above that. Downshifting manually raises the RPM as expected, but no increase in acceleration.
Now I have a check engine light on again, and am taking the car back to the repair shop this week without clearing the light so maybe they can see something else that may have cleared at the auto part store last time. Basically, I have read multiple causes/symptoms which partially match this, but nothing exactly.
1. Limp home mode on ECM
2. Throttle position sensor
3. MAF sensor (or whatever the 2011 Santa Fe has equivalent)
4. TCM (Transmission Control Module)
There was absolutely nothing wrong with the car before the wreck, then the starter. No shifting/idling issues. I am wondering what a repair shop replacing a bumper and transmission could have done, that would create this problem. The transmission couldn't have died between working fine, won't start, and here, your starter and bumper are fixed but the tranny is FUBAR. I am thinking it absolutely HAS to be a sensor or computer controller of some sort, but not much on the web showing which sensors are which and where they are in a 2011 Santa Fe.
I believe the MAF/throttle body has to be removed to get to the starter (directly below it if I am not mistaken). One last thing, it is an AWD... it was towed from my house to the dealership with all 4 wheels up, as required for a AWD vehicle. If the shop pulled it from the lot to the garage, a few hundred feet at most, with 2 wheels up and 2 down, could that cause all this?
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