Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Heating The Rear Seats Via Pillar Outputs
Oct 4, 2014
Well I have climate control AC/heater systems. It seems to be working correctly in the front. Although I don't see any way of keeping the AC from running and still have the fan circulating air. OFF kills everything AUTO & manual modes still appear to activate the AC since the air appears cooler than the cool outside temperature. Not need if you're opening the sunroof to run the AC as well. Seems like an oversight.
Anyway reaching around the back with heat coming out the dash vents its just cool air out those column outputs. Maybe it has to run longer or engine much hotter. I pulled the manual and re read it again but its saying where air will go in various mode selections. I omits entirely if there is heat to the rear when the floor is the only output selected as it is in AUTO.
When they get heat out the columns on their system. This is a Limited.
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I just bought a 2012 Elantra GL, I'm very proud of it!
My car is equipped with a remote starter, and I'm wondering if it is possible to set the rear defrost and the heating seats in order to having them activated when the car starts? I can not find any answers about that in the owner's manual or the remote starter manual. For now I have to activate these functions manually when I enter in the car. It would be great having side mirrors and rear glass defrosted before entering in the car.
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I just purchased a certified 2011 Santa Fe GLS and has a mysterious creak or "pop" in door pillar or door area when on a rough road or the frame is in bind on uneven terrain (minor at most). It's not major....just irritating. Will I get anywhere when I ask Hyundai to see if they can find it?
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My 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe Driver side B-Pillar has a knocking sound now and then, is it just a loose connection or is it common in these models as it is winter.
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Just spent 12 hrs in our new 09 SF Ltd listening to a squeak/tick/click coming from driver's side A pillar area, front door jamb, or side window. I suspect - but am nowhere near sure - it's the windshield moving against gasket or molding. Had a similar issue in the Mazda3 I traded.
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The driver and passenger hip bolster (side facing the door) had a fold under the leather... When I took it in for warranty they said the heating element in the seats came loose. It's probably from getting in and out of the car, and they replaced the entire element, but the GX only had about 12k miles and is 2 years old.
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I was driving home today and randomly thought to open the vents in the b pillars and noticed that neither rear vents were flowing any air. I opened and close them and I tried every mode on the AC, and even tried turning the rear vents from the arm rest to the back seat off. Any clue as to what the deal is?? I just cant imagine what the issue is. I have never used the vents in three years of ownership but would like to think that I have the option.
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So I picked up my new 2016 LWB loaded 6 passenger Santa Fe yesterday and I'm finding today that NONE of the heated seats are doing anything. The ventilation (fan) works, the heated steering wheel works, but all 4 seats are inoperative. Now, I'm coming from a 2014 Santa Fe Sport with the same heated and ventilated seats that worked fine, and my life has a 2015 Genesis 3.8 AWD and hers all work fine. I've checked the fuses located in the dash and those are fine.
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I have a '99 psd f250 crew cab lariat, I just purchased seats from a 2005 F350 that are lariat heated and power. My seats are power but non heated is there a way to hook everything up.
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I have a 2004.5 Gli that I'm getting really excited to fix. First question as a Noob how many miles can I get out of the engine with regular up keep. It has 140k? I just had the timing belt and water pump done and it feels great but i dont want to get into a huge money sandpit.
There is water getting in when it rains which has caused the liner to lift off of the A pillar and the B pillar gets moist as well. No damage to the head liner at all just the pillars and the door liner has gotten damaged and lifted. I've already checked the the sun room drains/drain nipples they work great.
I have to get the front end fixed- New valance and paint. I'm sure this will have to wait till next summer so i can save the funds to have a good paint job/blend of the hood and fenders. Plus my driver side door needs a touch up after being keyed.
After searching the forum all day yesterday i found the color code for the rc's and was going to get them powder coated due to curb rash and really bad chips. But is the oem brilliant silver color the best for the Grey metallic color GLi?
Obviously I am wanting to first work on the exterior aesthetics of the car first. Engine performance is fine, I am not a heavy footed driver on the streets and on the hwy it does fine at 90. But I do see a chip and FMIC in the next year being a possibility.
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I was unable to find any posts talking about using the radio's line out (non-amplified) signal to send to an aftermarket amp. Any links or info would be great as I plan on performing my install soon and I really want to avoid using a line output converter (on the radio's amplified outputs).
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While driving with a friend today he noticed no air coming out of the rear vents(the ones between the front and back door windows). We played around with all the controls and read the manual but nothing. Air was coming out the rear middle console.
Are these vents part of the four-zone option which I don't have or am I missing something
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Just picked up a '17 SFS 2.0T Ultimate. Only gripe so far is that the ventilated seats (which the salespeople said were 'superior to the Tucson's') don't blow any air. I can hear something going on under the seat but no air comes out.
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My rear passenger hub and wheel have been heating up much more than the others. Sometimes too hot to touch more than a second when you can basically grab on the others. I have taken the tire off, rebalanced it, made sure it and the wheel were normal, taken out the axle shaft, checked inside, regreased the bearings and replaced the inner seal. Everything looked good.
Plenty of fluid in there and the bearings looked perfect. Before I did that I checked the e brake boots to make sure they weren't eating into the rotor. They looked normal, no abnormal wear and the inside of the rotor doesn't look scored or anything. Yet after all of that, even with the mechanic from the auto skills center there with me looking at all of it, we cannot figure out why its still heating up.
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I've got a 2003 camry LE/V6. The interior trim fabric to the right and left of the rear window is curling back on the trim panel away from the glass. This has been happening slowly over a year or so and now has reached a point of requiring repair. I've searched the site, but haven't found anything directly related. These panels appear to be separate from the headliner and the rear window shelf. How these panels come out? If these snap into clips and can be removed, I might be able to match fabric closely enough to be OK.
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2007 Santa Fe about 90k miles - Automatic transmission ... Before suggesting stuck caliper / emergency brake hear me out:
Last year, I am driving around and my passenger side rear wheel is getting hot. Infrared thermometer shows up to 600 degF on the rotor after about 30 minute ride.
Took the wheel off, and I could not move it. Upon recommendation, I bought a new caliper, took the wheel off, took the old caliper off, but the wheel would still not move with the brakes off. I never installed the new caliper knowing it is not what is holding wheel.
Took it to the shop. They took off the rotor, found a groove inside, so said the e-brake shoe is getting stuck. I paid for the new rotor, took it from the shop and the problem was still there. Wheel getting hot. Took it back, and they suggested to buy e-brake hardware. I did, and reinstalled the e-brake assembly myself. The wheel was still getting hot, but only after I used the e-brake. So I took the wheel apart, released the brake an it seemed to 'fix' the problem. So I decided to not use the e-brake at all. Winter went by, I accidentally used the e-brake couple times, but it did not seem to make the wheel hot. So far so good.
Now is June and about 2 weeks ago I started to sense the wheel getting hot again. Now, this time this may have nothing to do with the previous time, but who knows. The temperatures are again up to 600 degF when driving about 45 mph for about 20 minutes.
I took the jacked up the car and tried to spin the wheel and the wheel spins freely. What the heck. I asked my daughter to apply brakes. The wheel can't be moved. When the brakes are released the wheel spins freely. No friction at all. Both inner and outer pads are thinner on this wheel then the opposite wheel, as all of them were replaced 6 months ago. So definitely higher friction. But why. Caliper nicely moved and releases. I took it off and tried it and it worked fine. Brakes nicely engage and release the rotor during the test when car was jacked up. I bought infrared camera to find source of heat, which is proving to be the pads. See pics below.
So what is going on? Why would the wheel free spin and jacked up showing no friction. Why would the brake nicely release the rotor when car jacked up but then cause big friction when car is running?
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I noticed the heated seats won't turn off. Is that normal? If it's turned on and shows 3 bars it won't slowly go down to off.
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I'll be sitting at a stop light and I'll start hearing this ticking sound which seems to come from the rear of the driver door, or perhaps the B pillar. Opening and shutting the door will make it go away for a short time, but it returns by the time I get to the next light.
It's very steady, about one tick per second. At highway speeds it's either non-existent or too faint to hear. I have a 2-door.
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and one of the issues with this van is that the metal cooling lines that run from the engine area back to the back of the van heating core rust away and have to be replaced. Can you just cut those away and put like a u joint on it so that the anti freeze doesn't go back there and thus reducing the huge cost of replacing those lines? Yes I know that means no heat in the back of the van but I don't use the heat back there now and haven't through this past horrible winter. I am just trying to reduce the cost I am looking at for this repair that I know I am going to have to address in the coming months.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe and the rear hatch wont open. When I pull on the handle it doesn't seam to click or engage with anything. I'm in a remote area and would like to try and fix this myself.
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As long as we are mentioning things, the trim/gasket around my rear doors on my 08 Santa Fe does not fit right. You can see it in the attached photo. The gasket is one piece, and there is no way to arrange the slack so that there is not a gap. Maybe someone used the wrong one at the factory, or is this a common/known problem? I'll ask about it the next time I'm in the dealer.
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