Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Hard To Start When It Rained Overnight
Jun 2, 2015
My Santa Fe was really hard to start this morning..it seems when it rains overnight it seems to spin and spin and spin and take some time to start.. Could a low voltage battery be in cause ?
When it starts, i see no loss in performance or any CEL that's come up and runs like it always did before.
Any quick tests that could be done before i take it back to the dealer for a diagnosis ? I have a multimeter so i guess i could check my battery voltage to see if it's the source of my problem.
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My 2007 Civic Hybrid is having trouble starting. This happens when it's cold out, it's been sitting outside overnight (I don't have a garage), and the IMA battery is low. I've taken it to the dealership but they were not surprisingly no luck. The car has about 65,000 miles and a new battery - the one in front - was put in not too long ago and tests fine.
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Recently, I have a weird issue on my car starting problem, 2005 I4. This happened after I replaced the upper engine mount (dog bone). When I left my car parked overnight and try to start in the morning, it makes a very slow start (Ruff Ruff noise). I have to tap on the gas a bit to get it starts. All the lights are still bright when I get to the car in the morning. The car has no issue at all when starts it during daytime or when I park car at work (about 8 hrs.). I checked and cleaned the ground terminals and make sure everything is tight.
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I've been suffering for this issue for quite a while. My passat 06 is experience a hard time to start up after sitting over night. The first attempt in the morning is always shaky. Then, it starts up okay during the day. Even like after driving 5 mins and I can restart it without any problem. But it's the first time of the day that troubles me.
And some history, my battery died completely like 2 months ago, and I replaced it with a Duracell. At first, it has no problem start up at all. But there was one day I forgot to turn of the lights and leaved my car over night.
The next morning, I was able to start it but with some difficulty. Since then, I have been experiencing hard times in starting up. Need to point out the issue? I'm really afraid to have a dead battery in a parking lot 1 hour away from my apartment again ..
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My wife's SF with 30K miles has developed a coolant leak after it sits over night. It rest on the concrete behind the oil pan. Its only 4 to 5 drops but any coolant leak is not good. I looked around and it looks like there may be moisture down below where top oil filter is(top back of engine). Crap, I hope its not a HD gasket. Are there any coolant hoses that run on top of the engine behind the oil filter? Hopefully its just a hose. I am going to try and set up an appointment at the dealership for early next week.
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The problem is it is hard to start after the truck has been parked overnight. It turns over ok but seems to take a long time to start. After it has ran, restart is normal, it fires right up. My ranger is a 2001(4.0 liter V6) and the problem is also with my daughter's 2006 (3.6 liter V6). I have tried a new fuel filter but no change. If I turn the key to the on position without starting it for a few seconds and then try to start it the engine starts sooner but still a little longer than normal.
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2007 Santa Fe, hard to start after fueling up, after that one time it cranks fine until I fuel up again.
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The vehicle has 80,000kms, and from a cold start it is having this problem more and more frequently. I must crank the engine 3+ times, and then she starts. A prolonged cranking period doesn't seem to work, and this only occurs when cold. The car starts fine when warmed up. I have scanned the car with a generic OBD2 reader and there are no codes. Once the car is running, it runs great with no misfires.
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Ok, so my 2007 F150 Lariat super crew cab has been at the dealership for a week now with them claiming that a part is on back order. How hard is it for them to get in a right front axle?? Granted, it was in there for other stuff too (which they can not give me a straight answer on if they fixed or not cause they are claiming the technician hasn't done the write up on it yet). My main concern is that they are screwing me around or that something happened to my truck. I am planning on stopping by there on Wed. morning after I get out of work.
Are these trucks known for bad front axles or was there some kind of a big recall on them?
Other things it went in for was the radio having the CD's cycle through when you first start up the truck, but does not happen like that all the time. Black plastic driver side front door hinge is cracked exposing the metal reinforcing part. Whirring/bearing type noise when you first start up the truck when it is cold and sits overnight (which they claim they can't hear yet waited to bring the truck inside and check it out at 3PM when they had the truck overnight from the night before when I dropped it off.) and the front driveshaft not fully disengaging when the truck is in 2wd. Almost seems like the vacuum locking hubs are still engaged.
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2011 Santa Fe with 3.5L V6 and AWD, 38000 Kms:
Very recent work (last month or so) - new battery (old one had a bad cell), brake light switch and for a repair of the seat adjustment bar (not sure what it is called). The most recent oil change was done by me in November and I have only put about 1600 kms on it since. I put 5W20 Castrol Syntec and a made in Korea WIX filter. I fill the oil to just a hair below the top dot on the dip stick. I torque everything properly.
OIL LIGHT PROBLEM:
When I was driving home from work this evening, I had to brake a little harder than I normally would when I was turning into the back lane (about 8 houses from my house). I thought I saw the oil light come on, but I wasn't sure. I continued down the lane when someone walked out in front of me and I had to brake again. This time, the oil light did come on for sure and then went off when I took the brakes off. It was -20 C outside, so I continued to my house which was now 4 homes away. I braked to go into my (heated!) garage and the light came on again as soon as I touched the brakes.
I decided to let the car sit for an hour to get an accurate reading on the dip stick. I checked it and the level read exactly where I had filled it - just a touch below the top dot. I took the oil filter out to check that it was still seated properly and was not obviously clogged. It looked just fine. No signs of any leaks in the engine compartment or under the vehicle. I decided to take the car out again to go around the block - maybe not a great idea. The light didn't come on again when I braked until the vehicle had warmed up again.
What could the problem be?
I guess I need to take it in, but I start work at 7 AM and my wife is on maternity leave and she needs a car tomorrow. So, this means me taking the Yaris is out. She can't take the Santa Fe to the dealer with my infant son and so I guess I have to get it towed. This is bullshit. This POS has been in the shop several times since November.
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Have been noticing my 2003 SantaFe "coughing" on startup after sitting typically overnight or longer. Started noticing this after I went to Royal purple synthetic on an oil change. Started useing Mobil One synthetic and I am hearing the same thing. For a millisecond after I start it up after it has been sitting overnight or longer a quick "cough" kind of a sound that quickly goes away. No other problems apparent.
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I need to know if this is considered "normal" behavior of the transmission. This cold morning while driving in traffic the car just jerked really hard while shifting from 3rd to 2nd and as described in other threads its like someone rear ended the car.
It has only 2650 km, it's a 2012 2.4 6sp automatic 4wd Santa Fe, should I waste my time going to the dealer? It only happened once, no engine light no nothing. Could it be just a "glitch" in the ECM? I read some other threads before posting, but they were a bit older. Has experienced such a shifting bang under low speed with so little mileage?
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I'm experiencing a weird problem with my 09 Santa Fe (just under 15k miles). A few times, while in slow and heavy traffic (and ONLY then) I experience a hard jolt or jerk. The 1st time it happened I thought someone had hit me in the rear but that was quickly ruled out.
I suspect this has something to do to do with the tranny. Though it occurs maybe once or twice monthly, I am beginning to have concerns and suspect that the problem will get worse with time.
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2008 Camry LE 2AZ-FE - With sun roof
Basically, my car leaks when it's being rained on and it's not moving. If I'm driving at any speed, it doesn't leak. It only leaks when the car is getting rained on and isn't moving (parked)
What is allowing this? The door weather strips? The sunroof weather strip? The windshield?
I want to avoid maintenance that isn't necessary.
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I just bought this 2008 santa fe with a 3.3 V-6. It has 200kms on it. Here is the problem- I start the engine, and for the 1st second of running there is NO noise,.....but a second later it sounds like a chain slapping around in the engine HARD. it lasts for about 2 seconds and then the motor is quiet. It seems like the longer the car sits,..the worse it gets. If your only letting it sit for 20 minutes or so, you wont hear it.
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Got in to go to work this am, and the gear shifter was difficult to move. What to check?
I drove 70 miles to work and didn't seem like any issues with the transmission shifting.
Got in to go to lunch and it seems even more difficult to move...
Shifting back and forth in the selector seems to loosen things up a little.
A friend move the selector while I looked at the linkage and the bracket that support the cable is flexing while shifting between gears....More likely a transmission issue or something with the linkage?
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Our 2009 Santa Fe AWD Limited shifts hard first thing in the morning when my wife shifts into reverse to back out of our parking space. This is a real hard THUD kind of shift, where the car jerks. After that, all shifting is normal. We don't have any other problems with the transmission when driving.
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Have a used sante fe with 190,000 miles that's having to crank a couple times to start change coils, plugs, wires and rear 3 injecters. still hard starting check the fpr and is good about to test fuel pressure but didnt see a valve to test fuel.
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Just bought a used but in pretty decent shape, 2002 Santa Fe, with 6 cylinder engine, 112K miles. I read the post about the vehicle that was hard to start after filling up - but this one is hard to start all the time - every time. Cranks fine, but once cranking, have to pump the gas pedal several times, and then it chugs just a second and then starts running. Slilght smell of gas if the hood is up, just after starting. Once running however, it runs perfectly on city and hwy. I have one mech that tells me "definitely the fuel pump" and another that tells me "definitely the purge valve" - this of course just from me describing the conditions, they have not actually seen it.
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1614 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM) harness is open or shorted - Faulty Electronic Throttle System (ETS) unit - Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
1191 - Electronic Throttle System Limp Home Valve On
Car is a 2004 santafe 3.5l automatic. symptoms are phantom revving up to 3-4k in park without me doing anything, sometimes car is hard to start, idle is very erratic/doesn't want to stay running. other times it starts and drives perfectly. from what i can gather this is some sort of malfunction in the electronic throttle system, and from searching people say "inspect ETS system", but i'm not sure what this involves. i unplugged every sensor i can locate in relation to the throttle system, cleaned them with electronic spray cleaner and put some di-electric grease. reset the ecu through battery disconnect, and problem came right back. local shop pulled the codes and said it'll be about 1200 for a new throttle body, and that the dealer has to reset it say what.
is there anything i can do with this sans bringing it to the dealer? i'm not even sure it would make it that far, driving home from the local shop it was in limp mode and i could only drive about 30 mph, and barely made it up hills. probbaly take me three hours to drive to the nearest dealer lol.
i replaced the accelerator pedal sensor about a year ago, and it also threw a code for throttle position sensor about a year ago also.
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This happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
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