Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Hard To Start After Fueling Up
Jul 19, 2011
2007 Santa Fe, hard to start after fueling up, after that one time it cranks fine until I fuel up again.
View 1 Replies2007 Santa Fe, hard to start after fueling up, after that one time it cranks fine until I fuel up again.
View 1 RepliesWhen I fuel up I hear a loud thump in the back of my vehicle, I then hear the gas pump nozzle click off after about another half gallon is pumped in. Without understanding the design of a tank or the gauge float etc. I am guessing that something is getting stuck and releasing under pressure once the tank fills up. Of course this has me more than somewhat concerned from a safety perspective. Note that this vehicle was brought in under warranty for the fuel sensor issue and the part was replaced, would this be related to that? Will the repair still be cover as a part of that work even though my vehicle is now out of warranty?
View 5 RepliesMy '05 Sante Fe 2.7 doesn't want to start after fueling up. I have to hold the accelerator pedal down, like we used to on the old rods when we flooded the engine, to get it to start. I replaced the gas cap thinking that was the issue, but didn't fix it. I get no check engine light and with 340k miles, it sent out several codes a while back at the dealer. Could it be the fuel filter or pump?
View 2 Replies2007 2.7 GLS ... I like many have encountered the P0441 code and my Santa Fe stalls after fueling and requires constant revving for a bit to stay going. Previous threads seem to point to the Purge Control Valve.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2007 Suzuki XL7. About a year ago it started having trouble starting after fueling. Every time you put fuel in the vehicle it would take a few times before it would start. We've had it to several mechanics. They replaced the gas cap and did a few other small things. Nothing worked. We took it to have it diagnosed on the computer 3 different times (twice by the dealer). They only tell us that there is something with the timing sync code. The vehicle now has 190,000 miles on it.
Recently, it's started to act up more often. As the car warms up and is used more throughout the day it becomes more and more difficult to start. It has also had a few instances where you would get it started and you push on the gas and it won't go. This problem is getting increasingly more frustrating. I've talked to my regular mechanic about these issues and his belief is that it is some sort of fuel issue.
Unfortunately, he is more of a backyard mechanic and doesn't have a computer to diagnose it. I recently took it to yet another mechanic and have gotten the runaround by them. The man there told me he would get me an estimate written up with an explanation of what he feels is wrong with it. It's been two weeks since then and I've called a dozen times with no luck. Mechanics are truly frustrating to me. My friend said, call Car Talk, so here I am...desperately hoping you might have a clue as to what is going on with the vehicle.
My car is a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS and does not want to start only after fueling. It will also die when the fuel cap is removed. There is an excessive amount of vacuum pressure released when cap is removed. The computer showed a code: P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow. Is this simply a fuel cap issue or something else?
View 5 RepliesThe vehicle has 80,000kms, and from a cold start it is having this problem more and more frequently. I must crank the engine 3+ times, and then she starts. A prolonged cranking period doesn't seem to work, and this only occurs when cold. The car starts fine when warmed up. I have scanned the car with a generic OBD2 reader and there are no codes. Once the car is running, it runs great with no misfires.
View 1 RepliesMy Santa Fe was really hard to start this morning..it seems when it rains overnight it seems to spin and spin and spin and take some time to start.. Could a low voltage battery be in cause ?
When it starts, i see no loss in performance or any CEL that's come up and runs like it always did before.
Any quick tests that could be done before i take it back to the dealer for a diagnosis ? I have a multimeter so i guess i could check my battery voltage to see if it's the source of my problem.
I have a 2007 Nissan Maxima and never had a problem with it until recently. My husband and I took a long drive to NJ from NH and went we stopped for gas and turned off the car, we could not start the car back up. We naturally called AAA, but once they came, about a hour later, the car started right up. Since that time, the car has repeated this several times. I take a trip to the grocery store, get back to the car, no problem, then make another short stop and then try to start the car and it does not start. I have no problem starting the car going to work every day and when I come home from work. It only happens when I make short intermittent trips, sometimes 2-3 stops. It always starts when there has been at least 1/2 hour between starts. I have taken it to 2 mechanics and they can never reproduce the problem I now have a car I have no confidence in. I am afraid even to get gas for this car.
View 8 RepliesMy '04 Elantra experiences rough starting/running only when I fuel up. No dash indicators show up and I do not top off the tank. It feels like flooding but no gas smell and clears up in less than a minute and I experience no further start issues until next fill-up.
View 2 RepliesI went to fill up my Santa Fe's tank for the first time and was only able to get about 9 gallons in. The pump shut off when the car only had about 2/3 of the tank full. I let it be, but I really don't want to be dealing with this every week. Have issues put gas in? Any tricks/tips? I do live in California which requires a lot of equipment on the pumps to prevent gas fumes from escaping. I'm not sure if that's contributing to the premature shut-off.
View 12 Replies2011 Santa Fe with 3.5L V6 and AWD, 38000 Kms:
Very recent work (last month or so) - new battery (old one had a bad cell), brake light switch and for a repair of the seat adjustment bar (not sure what it is called). The most recent oil change was done by me in November and I have only put about 1600 kms on it since. I put 5W20 Castrol Syntec and a made in Korea WIX filter. I fill the oil to just a hair below the top dot on the dip stick. I torque everything properly.
OIL LIGHT PROBLEM:
When I was driving home from work this evening, I had to brake a little harder than I normally would when I was turning into the back lane (about 8 houses from my house). I thought I saw the oil light come on, but I wasn't sure. I continued down the lane when someone walked out in front of me and I had to brake again. This time, the oil light did come on for sure and then went off when I took the brakes off. It was -20 C outside, so I continued to my house which was now 4 homes away. I braked to go into my (heated!) garage and the light came on again as soon as I touched the brakes.
I decided to let the car sit for an hour to get an accurate reading on the dip stick. I checked it and the level read exactly where I had filled it - just a touch below the top dot. I took the oil filter out to check that it was still seated properly and was not obviously clogged. It looked just fine. No signs of any leaks in the engine compartment or under the vehicle. I decided to take the car out again to go around the block - maybe not a great idea. The light didn't come on again when I braked until the vehicle had warmed up again.
What could the problem be?
I guess I need to take it in, but I start work at 7 AM and my wife is on maternity leave and she needs a car tomorrow. So, this means me taking the Yaris is out. She can't take the Santa Fe to the dealer with my infant son and so I guess I have to get it towed. This is bullshit. This POS has been in the shop several times since November.
I need to know if this is considered "normal" behavior of the transmission. This cold morning while driving in traffic the car just jerked really hard while shifting from 3rd to 2nd and as described in other threads its like someone rear ended the car.
It has only 2650 km, it's a 2012 2.4 6sp automatic 4wd Santa Fe, should I waste my time going to the dealer? It only happened once, no engine light no nothing. Could it be just a "glitch" in the ECM? I read some other threads before posting, but they were a bit older. Has experienced such a shifting bang under low speed with so little mileage?
I'm experiencing a weird problem with my 09 Santa Fe (just under 15k miles). A few times, while in slow and heavy traffic (and ONLY then) I experience a hard jolt or jerk. The 1st time it happened I thought someone had hit me in the rear but that was quickly ruled out.
I suspect this has something to do to do with the tranny. Though it occurs maybe once or twice monthly, I am beginning to have concerns and suspect that the problem will get worse with time.
I just bought this 2008 santa fe with a 3.3 V-6. It has 200kms on it. Here is the problem- I start the engine, and for the 1st second of running there is NO noise,.....but a second later it sounds like a chain slapping around in the engine HARD. it lasts for about 2 seconds and then the motor is quiet. It seems like the longer the car sits,..the worse it gets. If your only letting it sit for 20 minutes or so, you wont hear it.
View 5 RepliesGot in to go to work this am, and the gear shifter was difficult to move. What to check?
I drove 70 miles to work and didn't seem like any issues with the transmission shifting.
Got in to go to lunch and it seems even more difficult to move...
Shifting back and forth in the selector seems to loosen things up a little.
A friend move the selector while I looked at the linkage and the bracket that support the cable is flexing while shifting between gears....More likely a transmission issue or something with the linkage?
Our 2009 Santa Fe AWD Limited shifts hard first thing in the morning when my wife shifts into reverse to back out of our parking space. This is a real hard THUD kind of shift, where the car jerks. After that, all shifting is normal. We don't have any other problems with the transmission when driving.
View 6 RepliesHave a used sante fe with 190,000 miles that's having to crank a couple times to start change coils, plugs, wires and rear 3 injecters. still hard starting check the fpr and is good about to test fuel pressure but didnt see a valve to test fuel.
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 Santa Fe doesn't want to start after fueling. It doesn't matter whether it was just a few dollars worth or a full fill up. After pumping the gas and recapping securely, I have to press and hold the Accelerator to get it to catch. I had the purge control valve replaced a few months ago. And my car started mourn normally for a while. However I'm back to having to push progressively harder on the gas pedal to get it to start after gassing up.
View 5 RepliesProbably 20k ago the check engine light came on and was related to the "purge" valve as best I can recall, every mechanic I took it to kind of blew it off as just an emissions thing and not really necessary to fix. so whatever just let the light stay on as the car ran identical to before the light came on.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago and my wife was filling up between classes and after she was done and went to start it, it would turn over but wouldn't start completely, luckily a guy there pump the gas and revving it out as he turned it over. then it ran perfectly fine afterwards, started up perfectly after every time....until we got gas again.
Took it to a local guy a few people I know used, told him about the check engine light and maybe the purge valve thing had finally gotten bad enough to need replacing (this was my guess after some internet digging for the same issue), he troubleshooted and came to the decision to replace the front o2 sensor. Ok I said, your the mechanic not me, do it. did it and next time got gas....same thing.
he had it for another 2 days and "couldn't figure it out", refunded me completely for the o2 sensor & labor, while throwing in the towel today. Next up , Hyundai dealership I suppose. Car is throwing NO CODES whatsoever now, have put several hundred miles on since new o2 sensor.
While he had it he had to replace the master brake cylinder. So that's new as well. I've had to replace all the coils already between 75-85k they started acting up one by one so I said screw it and did them all.
OH and another problem is the airbag light has been on the dash for about the last 6-9 months as well.
The car has just over 111k on it and I've about had it, bullshit problem after another and another. What's next??! I've owned probably 7-9 cars in my life and nothing has given me the aggravation of this car.
Cliffs:
1) car won't start when putting in gas
2) starts if you rev it up for a short while, then will start every time afterwards til next fuel up.
3) o2 sensor is new
4) no more check engine light, no codes, yet still have issue
5) car is starting to wear down my patience with repairs
6) if not a cheap fix, bye bye Hyundai
The car doesn't struggle to start at any other time just when fueling. I have a 2011 Accent and I am looking for the locations of the various components involved so I can test them to see where the problem is.
I know the purge valve is mounted on the rear of the intake manifold below the air hose. Now is the solenoid and the valve the same part? I see various diagrams pointing to the valve and labeling it solenoid. The other part is the EVAP canister. I know it's some place near the gas tank but not sure where and I can't find any diagrams online.
I am comfortable with minor repairs. I've replaced spark plugs and ignition coils and a purge valve before so would this repair be something I could do myself or would I be better off taking it to the dealership?