Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Fuel Passing Sound When Switch The Key To On
Feb 2, 2013
I bought my hyundai Santafe 2012 in may 2012 and till last month that's in 1st week of January 2013 started giving morning start problem thought may be due to cold winter. i called Hyundai technician and he told me due to fuel problem. he drained out whole fuel from tank and replace with winter grade fuel and it works but from next morning ...
1. I always heard once 'grik' sound when switch the key to On
2. I heard fuel passing sound type which never heard before.
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Model is 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 2.7L
A month ago I started noticing it was sluggish to shift from P to R/D but i had no issues starting in P mode and the car would drive fine. I thought it might due to cold weather so didn't think of it too much.
Two weeks ago it was really hard to shift the gear from P mode and I nearly got stuck in middle of the road unable to shift from R to D. I applied a lot of force on the shifter and it finally budged into D and car drove with no issues. I parked and did my chores came back and the car would not start at all.I put the car in N and it started and was hard to shift back in D but I drove home without any other issues.
It died again in my drive way but this time the gear was nearly impossible to shift and I thought I almost broke it and the panel was not registering it was in P and the key was stuck in the ignition. After messing around for some time I was able to get it into N and put my hand brake on left the key in the ignition and disconnected the battery.
Today I opened the center console & battery tray these are my findings. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position.
1. The shifter moves freely once the linkage is disconnected by removing the tiny pin.
2. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position. Once I manually adjusted it I was able to start the car.
3. I reconnected the linkage pin, make sure the inhibitor switch was in N position and started the car but it was again nearly impossible to switch to P/R/D
4. My brake lights work fine.
5. I was able to remove the key once I completely disconnected the battery.
What can be the issue here ? Inhibitor switch ? The shifter assembly ? Linkage?
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Looking on replacing my Neutral Safety Switch. Shifting the Transmission began to get very hard to do, like the linkage was binding up. Pulled center console, latching mechanism unlocks when i apply the brake, was able to shift with much difficulty into reverse and now i can only get it to shift between reverse and neutral. It is all cable from shifter to transmission and the cable seems fine, no binding there that I can see. Got the nut off the trans linkage but can't get the shift arm to come off the rod and removed the 2 bolts on the safety switch but nothing wants to come apart. Just rusted on? Don't want to use the BFH and break anything.
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Recently started having issues where the master window switch will put other door windows down, but will not put windows back up. Switches at the other doors still work fine both up and down. Started with just passenger rear window, but now all the other windows act the same way. 2010 Limited AWD.
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In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
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I have a peculiar problem with my 2010 Santa-Fe 3.5L
Every now and again, and more often recently, when I try to start the car with the ignition switch, it cranks well, but doesn't, or takes a while to start. If, after trying to start it with no success, I give it a few seconds, I usually get it going, but not always instantly like it used to.
However, If I try to start it with the remote, it starts instantly, every time. What could be the cause?
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My 2008 Santa Fe has a problem where the heater & A/C work fine, the fan is blowing a lot of air but it will not switch between the defrost, heat & floor locations. Right now about 90% of the air is blowing out on the floor(freezing my feet with A/C) while about 5% comes out of the dash vents and 5% out of the windshield vents. No amount of adjusting will change these. I've changed the cabin air filter which didn't work and have ruled out the fan as it sounds great and pushing a lot of air out at the lower vent.
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First time towing a twin axle caravan with the Santa fe. towed 250 miles without any problems but on the final long uphill stretch the esp light came on. When the engine is stopped and re-started it goes out but comes back on within a mile. Also when the caravan is plugged into the electrical socket the indicators flash at normal speed but unplug it and they flash very quickly. I have read a lot on the foot brake switch being a problem and sometimes it causes the esp light to come on.
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I have 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe......approx 10K miles......no major issues to date
Drove my son to school this morning and pulled into a parking spot.....the shifter would not move into PARK......it was stuck....would only go into NEUTRAL and DRIVE....the vehicle was idling
I was a little panicked, but put on the parking brake and called the dealership on the cell.....they told me to pop the cover on the switch near the shifter and and depress the reset button (needed a flat head screw driver).......it took about four tries and then finally worked.....
I shut the vehicle off, restarted it and tried to put the car into REVERSE...to back out of the parking spot......shifter was stuck again.....had to depress the reset button......
Immediately took the car to the dealership where it was DIAGNOSED with a faulty "stop lamp switch".......causing the shifter to stick and the brake lights not to work... this was a recall item for the 2007 Santa Fe, but not the 2008 (that I'm aware of)
Dealership replaced the stop lamp switch and had me in and out in a hour.......but they did not initially give me a write up......i told them this was a very dangerous situation that had just occurred and I wanted a write up.....they happily complied....
So keep a flat head screw driver (glove compartment) in the car and have your dealership take a look at the stop lamp switch, on your next visit, even though it was only recalled on the 2007.......I will also be contacting HYUNDAI directly...
ETA: ESC light was illuminated when I was trying to get the vehicle into PARK from DRIVE......also contacted HYUNDAI and gave them a description of the incident and now have a case number.
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I recently did a brake job on an 02 Explorer, consisted of new pads and rotors (Rear). The Slide pins were fine and the piston was not frozen in the calipers.
Shortly after the Explorer will occasionally make this "thump...thump....thump..." feeling/sound.
It is not vibration.... it feels more like passing over small bumps in the road.
It is most consistent from 30-50mph, but I have felt it from 20-65.
It is more prominent on decel, but you can feel it on accel as well.
It makes no difference if you touch the brakes or not, or if you push the clutch in and/or take it out of gear.
Speed does not seem to effect the timing of the "thumps" it appears to be the same from 20-60mph. I'm at a loss...
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My GF's 07 Santa Fe AWD has the common (from what I've read) bad sensors in the gas tank for the fuel gauge. She needs an Echeck SOON and it won't pass with a CEL. can the codes be cleared and a fuse or something pulled to temp defeat the CEL until a proper repair can be done when we have time to do it? I don't drive it so I don't know how long before it comes back on after clearing it. It needs a drive cycle on it to get it to pass E check to so I can't clear the code and drive straight to the check center (I dont' think).
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My 2005 Santa Fe w/ 2.7L V6 started a strange symptom recently. Not always but often after its been turned off for awhile when I turn the key to the on position you can hear a fairly loud rushing noise while you inside the vehicle. With the heater/blower/radio and everything else turned off you can hear what sounds like fluid rushing or growling noise when you turn the key to the on position before starting the engine. It times off after a few seconds about the same interval as the fuel pump run time. It sounds just like fluid gushing and everyone inside the cabin can noticeably hear it.
Now I realize the the fuel tank and the fuel pump assembly are positioned under the vehicle in the same area as the back seat and I believe the access plate to the fuel pump assembly is directly under the drivers side backseat's bottom cushion. So it makes sense that any noise inside the fuel tank would be noticeable from inside the cabin. So far the vehicle has no drivability issues. But intermittently after the vehicle has been off for awhile the noise reappears at key on position. It sounds as if when the key is turned to the on position the fuel pump priming is causing turbulence and flushing fuel around in the tank. Yet it starts and drives normally. I've had this vehicle since it was brand new and I know of many issues that these Santa Fe's have but this new to me.
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I own a 2007 Hyundai santa fe. Whenever I add fuel to the gas tank, be it 5gal-10gal or filled the engine will run real rough for 3-4 minutes after doing so. All other times the engine runs fine. This only happens when I add fuel to the tank.
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I am having this issue if it's one. With the fuel level below last quarter, I'm having the time of starting the engine longer (cranking time). I tried several times, leaving the fuel level reach the last quarter, with same result. Reaching that level of fuel the problem appears.
Another issue is that sometimes when the day is hot and the fuel level is not necessary below quarter, the starting time is longer too. It's a Santa Fe AWD 2.4L Automatic.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe with 83k on it. For some months now, I have always been smelling strong fuel scent in the cabin. I took it to the workshop and was told it's my fuel canister so i handed money to the Mechanic to buy one to replace it. He called back to tell me he cannot get one to but can work on it by blocking the pipes or lines. I am not that convinced because i know the canister is there for a purpose so if he goes ahead to block the pipe or whatever, then it means something else can go wrong in the interim; but I'm in a quandary now and want that fuel scent to stop.
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My wife's 08 santa fe had its fuel pump replaced 2 weeks ago and has been smelling like gas ever since. I thought this would go away but it hasn't. Should I demand it be towed back to the dealer tomorrow?
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My 07 Santa Fe fuel gauge doesn't seem to be working. what can the problem be??
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I just replaced the fuel sensors and know don't have power to the fuel pump. ( checked at the harness). I had to take the canister apart to get the sensor to go in and I had the rubber seal fall off the gas tank pressure sensor the first time I hooked it up. I did find that and put it back on. I checked the fuel pump fuse and switched out the fuel pump relay with the one for the horn and had no luck .
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My wife's 07 santa fe has started to develop an issue with the fuel door not always opening when the button is pressed. I haven't had to use the manual release yet but sometimes you have to hit the button 5-10 times before you hear the click and it opens. The vehicle just went off warranty (of course!) and since the nearest Hyundai dealer is 2 1/2 hours away it would be nice to work on it myself.
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What's happening with my Santa Fe (3.5L AWD). In the past couple of weeks I'm seeing poorer fuel economy (about 15% worse) and the vehicle feels like it is down on power, especially in fifth gear. I mean, the vehicle works and some might not notice, but... There are no warning lights. Engine oil is slightly high (1/4 inch or less) and transmission oil appears to be correctly filled. Don't see leaks from this vehicle on the driveway.
I had an oil change about 3 weeks ago, at a Hyundai dealership, where I switched from regular to synthetic. I was told that no special procedure was required in making that switch, so none was done. About two weeks ago, the stereo system was dead one day. Would not turn on at all. In trying to troubleshoot I pulled the Audio and Radio fuses (there seemed to be three in the dash area), but they were fine and after I reinstalled them the radio worked again. Those are the only maintenance and other issues I've seen in months.
The vehicle has pretty new rear brakes and I don't feel unusual heat there. Could the switch over in oil types or electrical issue with the radio be related? I've done many hundreds of miles since both events.
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2009 Santa Fe GLS 2.7L ~63,000 miles .... Check engine light came on, scanner gave code P0441, but check engine light shut off later the same day. Since then the fuel gauge has been moving around inconsistently. Took it in to mechanic, he said he replaced a leaking hose. Next day, fuel gauge is still a moving target.
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