Getting OBD code P2422...Evaporative Emission Vent Valve stuck closed?? Had it once went to dealer they inspected...Happened again and they said they will replace a valve and possible the canister....I own a 2011 Santa Fe SE 3.5.......4000miles
View 7 RepliesI got a Ford f150 and getting the error code P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control. My truck has burnt up 3 of these things already in the last 8 months. Why my truck keeps killing them?
View 2 RepliesMy 2009 santa fe with the 2.7 has a check engine light. p2422 evap vent solenoid stuck closed. I replaced the charcoal canister and the light came back on. I replace the solenoid by the throttle body and the light came back on but took longer to set. My wife said that she was having problems filling the tank but when I changed the second solenoid the problem was gone but the light had returned.
View 6 Replies2009 Impala, 50000 miles, runs good, however service engine light is on with a DTC showing P0455, "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected, Gross Leak/No Flow". Are there obvious things I should search out or has there been a common problem in the EVAP system on this make and model that would pinpoint the leak?
View 19 RepliesWe are selling the girlfriends 01 Passat. I pulled the codes tonight for a long standing check engine light knowing it had one of the 02 sensors bad. Here are the three codes I received from the scanner:
P0130 - 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 1)
P0455 - Evaporative emission control leak detected (large)
P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
So is it one thing causing all three or are there common things to look at. We can't really afford to go replacing all the emission system sensors and hoses etc. in hopes of finding the right piece. Gas cap is screwed on tight and codes were cleared a couple times to make sure.
I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer and CEL is on, I got the code checked and its showing P0456 ("Evaporative emission system very small leak"). They recommended that I replace the gas cap, but I already tried that without luck. I have heard that the tubes in the system go bad and need replacing. I know some are located behind the back wheel but I wanted to give the ones under the hood a visual inspection so I have some clue when I take it for a repair.
My trouble is that I don't know what tubes I'm looking at! But I have some pictures, so at least we have that!
So the first one is zoomed out of the engine (obvious right?), just so you can see where everything is going. The hose I'm suspect of is the one that's to the left of the motor oil cap, the one I'm holding in the second picture. If you can see it, there's a split running down for about 6" -10"
What I'd like to know is did I assume right that this is (at least one) of the hoses causing my trouble with the evap system? And if it's not, which ones should I be checking out?
Got an engine light on today and had it checked at Advance Auto. It is P0442, "small leak in Evaporative emission control system". One article I read said to remove and retighten the gas cap, clear the code then see if it occurs again. If it does then replace the gas cap with a new OEM cap, and try clearing the code again to see what happens, as a first step in the troubleshooting process. I retightened the gas cap, but don't know how to clear the code and turn off the engine light.
View 3 RepliesThe check engine light on my 99 Camry went on at about 180,000 miles. My mechanic checked the code and turned up an EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM INCORRECT PURGE FLOW He said this could be any number of things,including the need for a gas cannister or some type of valve. What does this mean? How do you determine exactly what the cause of the problem is? What are the likely fixes? Will Toyota be able to better determine the cause than my personal mechanic? What are the best options?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2008 Chevy Equinox, and recently I noticed a gas smell...I saw Chevy had a special policy to replace the fuel pump module, so I took it to the dealership hoping that would be the problem. Fortunately it was, and they replaced it for free. I got my car back Thursday afternoon, drove it Friday, and it sat yesterday without being driven. This morning I drove to the grocery store, and on the way home my check engine light came on. I have an ODBII scanner, so I plugged it in and got this code:
P0455: Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow)
So I was wondering: (1) what is the cause and/or solution to this problem, and (2) is it possible the dealership caused this problem when they replaced my fuel pump module?
It seems awfully coincidental not to be related to the repair, since it is a fuel system problem, but I don't know enough about cars to be sure...
My 2.5L is throwing a check engine light with only 5000ish miles?!
P2407 - Powertrain - Auxiliary Emission Controls - "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Intermittent/Erratic"
I did a quick google search and apparently it MAY be due to a loose gas filler cap. I tightened it and drove around the block. Still on...
And (from the google search), this code isn't common with VWs.. (in fact, couldn't find a single VW with this code?).
I own a 98 f-150 5.4 with 70,000 miles. I get a check engine light (code p0455-large leak detected in evaporative emission control system).
Replaced the gas cap with an after market 'stant' ( I believe was the manufacturer) brand. The check engine light went away for 4 days then came on again.
No obvious vacuum line leaks.... Puzzled.
I have some codes on my ranger 2000 here goes
P0141: o2 sensor heater circuit malfonction (bank 2 sensor 2 )
P0455: evaporative emission control system detected (large leak)
Now I will need to get that fixed cause I don't know where to look and what to look for ... For the leak I know there is a big crack on the plastic where the gas lid is could that be it ?
Just received a P0441 CEL (Evap Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow). I have a 2.7l engine, 2WD. I've read other forums and it seems it's most likely the purge valve or charcoal canister.
View 7 RepliesI've had the check engine light come on and was told it was probably from topping up too much and that it would go off on it's own... I should say I have no issues with idle or rough starts.
I had it scanned at Auto Zone. The print out shows: "EVAP emission system incorrect purge flow probable cause
1) Faulty purge control solenoid
2) Faulty vent solenoid
3) Blocked vapor canister
Previous posts suggest if it were a blocked vapor canister I'd have trouble completely filling the tank so I am hoping it's one of the others. Almost everything I see suggests the purge control and that looks like an easy fix. My concerns are a) if it is the vent solenoid - how hard is that to get at and b) what is the part number as I can't find it listed anywhere? I want to have both on hand before I start trying to fix this. Lastly if it is the vent solenoid should I just give up and see a dealer??
My check engine light has came on and I received these error codes
PO441 : Evaporative emissions control system incorrect purge flow.
PO 455 : Evaporative emissions control system pressure leak-large leak.
PO 446 : Evaporative emissions control system vent control circuit fault.
Also only my driver side fan is working, may be separate issue?
My 2008 Santa Fe has a problem where the heater & A/C work fine, the fan is blowing a lot of air but it will not switch between the defrost, heat & floor locations. Right now about 90% of the air is blowing out on the floor(freezing my feet with A/C) while about 5% comes out of the dash vents and 5% out of the windshield vents. No amount of adjusting will change these. I've changed the cabin air filter which didn't work and have ruled out the fan as it sounds great and pushing a lot of air out at the lower vent.
View 1 RepliesWhen first starting a 2012 Sante Fe GLS with standard AC each morning, the vents blow warm for up to 3-5 minutes and therafter are fine. Additional starts for the remainder of the day seem fine. We live in a hot climate, but our 2011 Sonata, which is parked in the same garage, does not have this problem. No unusual soundsor lack of air circulation, and after 5 minutes it spontaneously starts to blow cool air. Problem began 2 months after purchase.
View 4 RepliesI find that my 2010 V6 is always cold in the winter. I always need to turn the temperature control to the highest, but there is still not enough heat. This morning, it was -11c outside. After I drove 10 KM (about 20 minutes) , inside the car is still very cold. My feet were frozen. The air from the vent is only warm, not hot. I also find that this car takes longer to warm up. The temperature gauge won't start to move until I drive about 2.5KM.
View 5 RepliesSo with about 70,000 km on my 3.3 V6 I'm noticing some oil seepage from the valve cover gasket. It's not enough to budge the oil level on the dipstick, and frankly not the sort of thing I would bother having fixed (especially with a leased vehicle). The only thing bugging me is that the alternator is getting pretty grimy and dirty from it, and I'm wondering how much it can take.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited with 82000 miles. I have replaced four (4) batteries since it was purchased, new, in March, 2010. I have repeatedly taken it to the Hyundai dealerships in Las Vegas, Nevada and Centennial, Colorado, for an oil leak on the valve cover over the alternator. At no time has the service technicians at the dealerships ever told me there was problem. Last Thursday, the latest new battery, installed that same day, failed. I had my independent garage technician assess the multiple battery failures, with the associated battery display light illumination, related to the location of the continual oil leak. He stated that the cause of the battery failures was from the oil damaging the alternator. I contacted Hyundai Customer Service, today, and was told that there have no reported problems from oil leakage onto the alternator, with subsequent damage to it, and/or the battery.
View 3 RepliesI just had my 3rd Canister purge valve installed a month and a half ago, and it's already dead.
I noticed while I was driving that it was constantly pulsing after the engine warmed up, and continued to do so as long as I was driving.** This did not seem normal to me (I can hear it in the cab).
The solenoid is burning up and measures open circuit. No codes are thrown during the time it continues to pulse, but when it burned up again, the 3 codes (P0441 Incorrect Purge Flow, P0440 Solenoid Failure, P0443 Purge Valve Circuit Trouble) are immediately thrown? indicating the solenoid is fried.
The system runs a series of tests during normal operation, so if there was a problem with an actual leak or clog, it should show up as a test failure code, but does not. My inclination is that the problem is a sensor.