Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Engine Shut Off While In The Traffic Jam
Jul 1, 2015
Recently with sunny days, 25-30 degrees celsius, my late 06' CRDI Santa Fe starts to shut off while in the traffic jam. After engine restart car runs fine while idling but after i put in Drive (its a 5 speed AT) it shuts off again. After 2-3 restarts i may able to pull my car aside the road and let it cool. One other thing i have noticed is the temperature gauge. The needle is sitting slightly under middle mark and my torque app shows 114-115 degrees celsius ? It is pretty high dont you think ? Sometimes its over the middle bar and then my OBD torque app shows 120 degrees. I would exclude Crankshaft position sensor, because car restarts just fine, if it was CPS then it should not start for a while?
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Was in town stopped at a traffic light when my 2003 Santa Fe just shut off. No warning, started right back up again, no CEL, no DTCs. Scary. I'm happy it happened with me driving the car instead of my daughter driving. Also happy it didn't happen on the highway.
I've had hard starting issues for a while now. Replaced crank sensor, it's fine for a few starts, then goes back to hard starting, but I hadn't had a problem in a few weeks.
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I was headed down the highway in my 2007 Santa Fe last night. All of the sudden, I lost engine power. I pushed the gas peddle and nothing. We coasted down to a stop on the side of the road. I attempted to restart, all it did was turn over. I noticed the OIL light was on, so I got out and double checked my oil level. Right up to the full mark. Probably about a year ago, I had a check - engine light. I have a code that indicates that my gas level sender has failed, so my gas gauge does not work. I am sure you are saying.....he just ran out of gas. Well, not the case. I filled up the day before, and figured I had another 100 miles left on this tank.
Over 171000 miles on it and I have no intention of giving it up soon.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe 2,2 CRDi that recently started to behave bad. When cold it starts but runs only for a few seconds before it dies. The engine seems to shut off without any notice. I am able to start the car again straight away, but the same thing happens.
If I try to push the throttle I might be able to keep it running for a longer while, and it seems to improve as the engine gets warmer, but it still dies after a while. (Some minutes.) When running, the engine feels kind of rough (hard) and not a smooth as its supposed to be.
I have cleaned the EGR valve, and replaced all the injectors. I also checked the diesel filter for water and flow, but didn't replaced as it was changed this summer.
The car is a no runner as it is now, since the uncontrolled shutdown of the engine makes it danger to use in the traffic.
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2011 Santa Fe with a problem with the fan. Believe it's the radiator fan. First time it happened, wife shut off car and fan was still on. Started it back up and shut it off a couple of times and it stayed off. That was over a year ago. Then today, same thing except she didn't notice it until she came back out to car and the battery was totally dead. Got a boost and as soon as they hooked up the leads from good battery the fan was on. I saw someone in a thread about a 2006 Sonata (?) doing this kind of thing.
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I had a previous post regarding this when it started, but it seems to have now changed. Twice this morning, both while idling still in traffic, my engine stalled. Turning the key it starts right back up and runs fine. I'm hoping that it doesn't morf into stalling at speed.
Originally this happened 2-3 times a couple of months ago. It would die and then catch itself and keep running. Again, each time while idling in traffic. Once or twice it also seemed as though it was ignoring the throttle request for just a second, then took right off.
Two things come to mind, and OBTW, no codes thrown ever. What do you think about throttle position sensor or gas pedal issues! I'm wondering if it's losing track of throttle position and taking it to a low level and a stall?
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe, I closed my ashtray the other day and now it won't open!!! It has change in it and I expect a coin has jammed it. The door will push in a little just like it normally would to open it but it won't pop open.
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2012 Santa Fe SE and the battery went completely, utterly dead. Reason unknown but that's not the issue for now. The battery was purchased new.
Also, I had a Viper 4204 remote starter installed after I got the car, April 2014. I use the keyfob that came with the Viper to open the doors and start the car as needed.
Trying to get a jump start but as soon as I connect the cables the alarm goes off and the car won't start. Called the place where I had the remote start put in and he suggested two things. Use the original Hyundai keyfob and press the unlock button to stop the alarm. Or put the key in the ignition turned to the ON position BEFORE connecting the cable to the battery. Tried both, neither worked. Also tried just holding down the kill switch under the hood. But that didn't work either.
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I have 2010 Toyota Camry, whose battery was replaced about 2 months ago. The oil was changed about a month ago also. Two days ago i was driving out of my gyms parking garage and 5 minutes into the drive my car completely shut off in the middle of traffic. It happened as soon as i hung up the phone while talking to my husband on a car speaker system. The car would not turn on, my dashboard looked like a rainbow with all the warning lights on, the windows worked, there was no sound coming from the car even when i tried to turn it on. I called AAA to have a wrecker move my car from the middle of traffic, and they stated there were no available wreckers, that i would have to wait 2 hours...so finally push the car into a drive way. So about 20 minutes pass by while I am waiting for my husband, and all the sudden I am able to turn my car on. I drove my car all the way home with my husband behind me ( 30 minute drive) with no problems. I still haven't had a problem but now I am paranoid that it might happen again.
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I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I took it to the dealership on June 30, for a routine oil change and other maintenance that was due. They did a cooling system flush, and oil change, a power steering flush, and a brake system flush, along with a multipoint inspection, and replaced the belt and tensioner. On July 18 on my way to work in traffic, the vehicle completely shut down with no warning signals. Shortly after the check engine light, the oil light came on. Until then, I had not noticed any warning lights.
At this time I reached down to get a bottle of tea from the passenger front floor board and noticed a slightly oily pink brown liquid on the plastic floor mat. When it was towed to the dealership, they tore the engine apart and reported that the engine overheated, the valve seats came off, the valves hit the pistons splashing metal onto the cylinder walls and requiring an engine rebuild. Is the dealership responsible for not having discovered whatever problem caused the engine to break down? Or causing it somehow during the maintenance on June 30? They feel it is not related.
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What is wrong with my car. It drives fine for a while every day then out of the blue starts hesitating and sounding like it wants to shut off when we're at a traffic light. It gets worse when I am making a turn, like it hesitates to pick up speed and starts like sputtering. When my car does this the muffler starts smoking really bad. The smoke is not a black color it is white. When it feels like it's going to turn off, I have to put it in Neutral then it stops. They did say the fuel pump wasn't bad so I am assuming spark plugs??? What may be causing this problem?
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Have a 2007 LS460L. Recently, I notice when I start the engine, it would start and then, in a fraction of a second, it will shut off. I then have to start over again. This is happening too frequently to be something I'm doing wrong.
Took it to the local Lexus dealership and they could not reproduce it, but told me they have had similar complaints from other owners, including other models as well, with keyless starters.
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My 2007 lexus es 350 engine will not shut off after I push the off button.
The everything goes off except the engine and the dash lights. I have to disconnect the battery to shut off the engine. The car does not have a remote start. could it be a relay and if so which one.
Last night I left the car battery disconnected and then this morning reattached and everything seemed fine. I started the car and let it fun for a couple minutes and then pushed the button and the car shut off. Then about 2o minutes later the alarm went off. The remote would not respond so I started the car and the alarm went off. Then I pushed the button to turn it off and the same problem occurred.
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My sister has a 2007 Prius that continues to have electrical problems. The latest is the console will go dark and the engine will not shut down. The dealership is stumped.
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After driving the vehicle on the highway (30+ minutes at 65+ mph), exiting highway on an exit ramp and coming to a stop (at stop sign or traffic light), the engine will sometimes stall and shut off. Immediately thereafter, vehicle can be restarted and driven. There are no other symptoms, abnormal sounds, vibrations, etc.
I thought problem might be caused by vapor lock. However, Hyundai dealer service center checked fuel pump, fuel lines and vacuum hoses, etc. but can not duplicate, identify or repair problem.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. Within the last 2 months or so I have changed my timing belt, spark plugs, and all belts that needed to be changed. I notice that when I am idle at a traffic light, the car is a little rough or bumpy. Is this normal for its age, or should I be looking at something specific.
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I've been noticing an odd noise in the brake pedal in our '03 Santa Fe. I don't hear it all the time (almost never on the highway), but especially hear it in stop-and-go traffic. It's sort of a whirr, a "RRrrr". I've googled and watched YT videos and it's definitely not a hissing sound or a grinding sound, nor do I notice any difference in the brakes' responsiveness.
I'm apprehensive of taking it to the dealer for service because I only plan to have this vehicle for at most three more weeks. Have only held onto it this long because we couldn't afford to replace it until we sold our house-- which we've just done, and are about to move to a city about an hour away on 7/5. We'll trade in the car within a couple of weeks of moving.
The noise is definitely from the pedal and isn't anything like squeaking brake pads (I currently live in the DC metro area, so squeaky brakes become very familiar with all the stop-start traffic!). The videos I've found that point to a booster problem have a decided hiss, and it's not that either. Don't want to be unsafe in the time we've got left, but also don't want to throw another thousand bucks (every time something breaks in that darn thing, it always seems like it's about $800) into a car we won't have in a month's time.
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This weekend was a nice high 80's low 90's. My AC is usually ice cold. However now that the weather hit that high, when we are in stop-and-go traffic, the AC starts blowing warm humid air. I do see the temperature need creep a bit higher than the normal range.
Once we start driving, after a few minutes, the climbs back down and the cold AC returns. Turning the fan speed down, or turning the compressor off, then on again, seems to work.
What could be causing this? A friend said he has this issue with his car claiming the engine is the issue, not being powerful enough to keep the compressor running right, is that possible?
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I have a 2007 Nissan murano so and the past 2 days while in traffic in my way home his happens: All the lights go on (oil, engine, brake, ect). Cannot push gas or brake and steering wheel is very tight. I was able to shut the car off and turn it back on within a minute the engine turned and I was back as normal- now the service engine light is on. I recently had an oil change and they reconnect a loose cable to my battery. I was able to drive to work this morning but again, the service light is on now.
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I have a 2009 Sante Fe, it has about 96000KM on it. It is a 3.3 engine AWD.
I find that when I accelerate the thing kind of feels rough. It is very subtle. Like you can almost miss it if I wasn't being so picky. But I can definitely feel something there. What this would be.
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With about 32K miles, I started getting a knock in the morning that would go away when warmed up. When I took the car in for service, I mentioned it and the service adviser said, it sounds like the timing chain tensioner leaking down, we have seen that.
Well it was not the tensioners, I was informed that, it was low oil pressure that did NOT trigger the oil light or any warnings, and my main bearings and a rod bearing were shot, it seems that the oil pump was not putting out as it should. Supposedly, it was only putting out 10 PSI. Oddly enough once the engine warmed up, there was no lifter/tappet noise that would indicate low oil pressure that I have experienced in the past with other engines.
The oil has been changed on time, the oil was clean, and the engine was not abused. Other than this the car ran fine. So the short block was replaced under warranty. This is a 3.5 V6.
This is quite disturbing, that some type of low oil pressure message or idiot light was not flashing on my dash. I have seen oil pumps from other manufacturers produce low oil pressure if the pressure relieve valve was stuck open.
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