I have an 07 with the 3.3L and on start up the engine runs really rough and while driving when warm it keeps losing power with a regular rhythm. It almost feels like and injector or ign coil is dropping out. I have no CEL and have recently changed the spark plugs and rear upper O2 sensor.
View 5 RepliesI have 2007 explorer with the 4.6 V8....
Recently it started running horrible. Rough idle, drives badly, hesitation, etc. Check engine light is on, code P0171. I cannot find a vacuum leak, and i am pretty much at a loss. Before it started running poorly i replaced the thermostat, and flushed the coolant. I am assuming this is a coincidence.
Recently replaced plugs/wires on soon-to-be 10 year old '04 SF 3.5L (157K mi.) for the first time.
Plugs were OE Champion Platinum and all 6 looked identical except for excessive gap of .010 +/- due to all the miles. Replaced plugs with same as OE. Old plug wires looked good, but replaced them with aftermarket wires ( fit was as good as OE). Also replaced plenum gasket.
Problem is: engine runs rough at idle and high rpm and appears to be mis-firing. CEL is off and code reader shows no Trouble Codes stored.
I have a 2008 Santa Fe 2,2 CRDi that recently started to behave bad. When cold it starts but runs only for a few seconds before it dies. The engine seems to shut off without any notice. I am able to start the car again straight away, but the same thing happens.
If I try to push the throttle I might be able to keep it running for a longer while, and it seems to improve as the engine gets warmer, but it still dies after a while. (Some minutes.) When running, the engine feels kind of rough (hard) and not a smooth as its supposed to be.
I have cleaned the EGR valve, and replaced all the injectors. I also checked the diesel filter for water and flow, but didn't replaced as it was changed this summer.
The car is a no runner as it is now, since the uncontrolled shutdown of the engine makes it danger to use in the traffic.
I have a 2006 azera limited 63k miles on it and I'm getting a rough idle that sounds worse when the weather is cold. also when I press the gas there is hesitation from the car to accelerate. on top of that, I feel vibrations from the engine all through the driver and passenger seat. When I turn the car on it idles at 1300-1500 rpm and takes about 5-7 minutes to come down. when it does , it idles at 650 rpm. I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes. I've replaced spark plugs, air filter, had the air induction service done at the dealership, and had to have Hyundai put on a new throttle body last march when it gave out on me while at work. the dealership doesn't know what it is and said to use a fuel additive when I fill up the tank. I have and am waiting to see if that does anything. I put in a bottle of CRC 1 Tank fuel system cleaner 2 days ago. I've even changed my brand of gas from exxon to bp just in case. I think it may be a bad hose for the idle and a bad motor mount for the vibration. Could an O2 sensor be going bad?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford F150 4.6L and its been broken down in our shop for quite some time now. It started acting funny when I could not get the truck to do over 80kmh. Slow acceleration, and a horrible shaking when it idled. Eventually it was undriveable since I could go above 50kmh anymore. From looking online we replaced the plugs and coils. We removed the intake to find the gaskets were shot so coolant was leaking into the spark plug tubes which could've been the cause of a misfire. Fixed that. Still the same. We replaced the egr valve and dpfe sensor because we keep getting the P0402 excessive egr flow code. Still no luck. My dad is a journeyman hes just not too familiar with newer trucks.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 SantaFe Diesel and am having a few issues.
Firstly, of late it has been running rough when I back off the accelerator but hold the current speed. Almost like a mis-firing feeling. AT about 1500 RPM
Secondly, I was driving down the freeway recently, the car started to labour going up a long hill, so I tried to kick it back a gear using the accelerator but it wouldn't do it. It stayed in top gear and struggled. I had to manually do it with the gearshift.
About 12 months ago, I was having problems with the car completely losing power on a quick takeoff from standing still (say at a roundabout) but that seemed to fix itself.
I have a 2007 SF 2.7L V6 with 55000km.
Recently we have noticed that from a cold start the engine idles roughly few a short time and especially bad if put into gear only moments after starting.
Do we need to let it warm up for longer?
I've got a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.4L engine. Funny thing happened on the highway. Driving along with the cruise on, the engine 'hiccups'. Almost like a quick hesitation or someone lightly tapping the brakes.
Got it home and ran the usual tests. Computer showed no trouble codes. Checked the oil. Checked the air filter. All normal.
Turned the car on and tested it in park. Gave it some gas, and took the engine up to 3k RPMs...after a few seconds, it did the hiccup thing again. I watched the RPMs dropped from 3k to 2.5k, and then rebounded to 3k. We could also hear a slight and single 'knock' each time the RPM's would drop. I noticed the A/C was on, so I turned it off, and the problem went away. Turned the A/C back on, and the problem came back. I did that about 5 times to confirm it, and every time the problem occurred, the A/C had to be on.
Now, of course the car has 61.5k miles, and we're the second owners, so bye bye warranty. The car was in for repairs at the dealership when the head control unit for the A/C had issues. Of course now we ask them if the problem is related to their repair will they cover the costs, and they say the best they can do is ask Hyundai to cut down the expenses (even though the repair was done within the last 10k miles)?!
My guess is the compressor has kicked the bucket. Of course, I'm not sure if maybe it's the idle motor not operating like it should or if the car even HAS an idle motor to work with the RPMs when the A/C is on.
I have a 2007 2.7-liter Santa Fe with 71,000 miles. I experience intermittent rough idle and rough low speed driving. It seems that in town driving will trigger these conditions. And when it's warmer outside that oppose to colder temperatures.
In most cases I can turn the car off, and after 2-5 minutes, start it right back up and the problem with go away.
The OBD codes are P0276 and P0306.
I have replaced the coil and injector on #6 cylinder.
The #6 spark plug is dry when the problem occurs.
I had the dealer update the ECM software
First indication, I had fuel gauge issues showing empty when def had plenty of gas. next idled very rough at low speed. Auto Zone read and gave me p0300, p0464, p0302, and p0304. I need new throttle body injector. I would be happy to buy and install but any input before I do? Should I have it looked at? could be more?
View 3 RepliesI am happy to own a Hyundai Santa Fe (2009) 2.7l which originally originated in the US. It is a really nice car, however, it recently over time developed the problem, which causes some pain - firstly it started with rough idle (pulsating), now it began to stall from time to time when decelerating.
[URL].....
I tried to plug a OBD reader and here's what I get (well, that's a "pending" fault, but still might be useful).
I tried to browse around the internet. I believe it is unlikely that 2 oxygen sensors fail at the same time. It could possibly be caused by vacuum leaks or faulty MAF. Is it a common fault among Santa Fe?
I have a problem with my 01 santa fe. When I start it the engine runs rough and when u try to give it gas it pops or backfire through throttle body and air intake tube? Checked the timing belt its ok hasnt slipped.so im stuck at this point.
View 8 RepliesWhen firing up the engine cold it runs really rough, smells very rich all the time, even warmed up. No codes set, fuel trims are within 5-10%. I've replaced the front O2 sensor, swapped crank & cam sensors, Map sensor (have lots of spare parts) & I'm sure there was more things I've changed but can't remember. I have a snap on scanner and everything is within parameters.
I have not checked the EGR valve or solenoids yet. It's a 2006 Santa Fe 2.4l 5 speed, new timing belt & balance belt replaced when I dropped this engine in. Is there a common problem with these that I could begin looking for?
Filled tank with 8 gallons of 91 octane to top off. One hour later noticed car running rough at idle then check engine light comes on. Could it be the coil pack? Car has been running very well until now, and this Gremlin appears. I don't think it's the gas.
2004 -V8 Treg
52,000 on the odometer
I am having a problem with my 1997 f150 4.2 v6. The engine is running rough at idle and while driving. It's running so rough that it vibrates the entire cab of the truck. I found water in the oil when I was trying to fix the problem. I have since had the heads redone and replaced all of the gaskets thinking this was the reason for the rough idling and rough driving. It wasn't; doing this fixed the water in the oil but still I have the rough running engine at idle and driving.
I have replaced the EGR valve, plugs and wires, pcv valve, replaced the coil pack, fuel filter and air filter (everything has been replaced with ford recommended parts because I have read that the engine I have doesn't like after market parts). While driving the engine vibrates and sound as if it's going in a cycle in a rhythmic sort of way (like a washing machine goes in a cycle), best way I can explain it. I have come to the end of what I think it is?
I recently replaced timing belt and balance belt on my 2004 santa fe 2.4l and now the engine runs like crap and shakes badly. I went over all timing marks again and again and I am at a loss.
View 9 RepliesI started out with my 2000 F150 with a 5.4 V8 running rough at idle. It would idle way down slow and then rev up a little over and over. On a couple of occasions it would even die when in drive or reverse. I did finally get a Check Engine light so i put it on my diagnostic program to see what was up. Here is what I got:
P1151 Lack of HO2S21 Indicates Lean
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
p0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
After doing some reading up I checked all my vacuum hoses and cleaned my mass air flow sensor. I then got the same codes again after a few minutes of running. So I went to the next thing that was recommended, the upstream bank 2 O2 sensor. After changing it the truck ran fine for a couple of days, no issues. Then all of the sudden it idled a little funny again and I got a Check Engine Light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire
I reset the light to see if I would get the same again later. Before the light came on again I filled my truck up with gas and it seemed to be running pretty good again. Then a day or so later it set the light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0136 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0156 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1131 Lack of Switches HO2S11 Lean
P1151 Lack of Switches HO2S21 Lean
I went ahead and drove for a few days as it had gotten really cold here and I didn't feel like messing around in my shop since it isn't heated. A couple days ago I needed gas so i filled up again. Suddenly the problem was gone again. Truck ran fine idled fine no missing or odd idling at all. That lasted a day or two before it started acting a little weird again. At that point i was down about 1/8 of a tank from full. I have read that there can be issues with the fuel pump.. I am kind of wondering if that may be it now. But I haven't had to deal with this sort of issue before so I am unsure what to check next. The truck always runs fine off idle, it only seems to have the issue when it is idling. I had reset the codes the last time and i have the light on again now. I haven't checked it yet but I am sure it is going be some combination of what i have had in the past.
I have read that the IAC valve can be an issue as well. I had a problem with mine sticking a couple years ago and when it would do it you could just tap it with a wrench and it would idle up. But it never died like it does now and it would also idle a lot slower than it does. Back then I cleaned the valve and had no more issues with it. The truck has always had times when it would act weird at idle usually after slowing down after being at highway speed. The current issue happens at all temps cold or hot.
I have a 2009 Sante Fe, it has about 96000KM on it. It is a 3.3 engine AWD.
I find that when I accelerate the thing kind of feels rough. It is very subtle. Like you can almost miss it if I wasn't being so picky. But I can definitely feel something there. What this would be.
The check engine light came on after cleaning the engine and the engine runs rough. Where to look. 2007 Hyundai Accord.
View 5 RepliesEvery time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
View 5 Replies