Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Engine Light And Erratic Idle
Nov 1, 2012
My wife was complaining of the ESC light came on and off. Rough idle. Also has a check engine lite.
View 23 RepliesMy wife was complaining of the ESC light came on and off. Rough idle. Also has a check engine lite.
View 23 RepliesHaving 55k on my 2007 Santa Fe, and having brought it in 1 month ago for that 46k check up, this is my problem since. It started with an erratic gas gauge last Friday ,my tank said empty knowing i still had 1/4 tank, so l filled it up, 30 minutes later light goes on seems no gas in it, 30 seconds later check engine goes on, the Fe is running fine though, I called the dealer and made an appointment for next week, he said as long as car runs fine I can drive it.
Engine light goes off when fuel indicates 3/4 full, but erratic gas gauge seems to fluctuate.
I know its a shot in the dark but my engine light came on the other night. Its a 07 v8 with 25k mileage. i started it up idled fine for 30 secs, then the idle started to get erratic up and own for 15 secs leveled off and the car ran fine. I drove for 10 minutes turned the car off for a couple of hours came ack started her up and engine light came on no rough idle or anything.
View 8 RepliesIt came on 2 months ago, took it to dealer, code said "erratic idle", it idled fine, smooth as it always has been, dealer turned of lite, said let him know if it comes on again.
View 2 RepliesI just purchased a 2005 elantra with 133k on it and she runs fine other than a slight erratic idle. And by slight I mean it will jump about 50-100 rpm idling and every blue moon it will jump up to 250 rpm sitting there. After idling for a while my CEL came on with the following codes.
P0507 idle air control rpm high
P0506 idle air control rpm low
P0170 fuel trim malfunction bank 1
P0121 throttle position sensor
What could be causing this? I took the iac off and cleaned it with maf cleaner but it didn't work.
My trucks symptoms include a illuminated service engine soon light, sometimes a high rpm idle, and sometimes a rough erratic idle. When a scan was done it indicated the oxygen sensor was defective. The issue is: which specific one (there are multiple oxygen sensors) or how could I check or determine the faulty one for sure. I am trying to economize and replace only the bad one myself if possible. I own a good multimeter, can it determine the bad one? 1999 F-150 4.2 Litre V6 oxygen sensor dillemna....
View 7 RepliesDaughter's 2001 Santa Fe Delta V-6 2.5 engine, needed lower ball joints. Replaced the entire lower arms as more cost effective & actually a bit less work, for me anyway.
So While under it, see oil dripping down back of engine. Decided to replace valve cover gaskets. So I start to disconnect all the involved connectors, brackets etc to pull the Upper air intake to get to the rear cover.
While moving around, find most of the hoses & vac lines baked brittle and dried out and loose even tho clamped, so I replace all of those, plus the PCV valve., & the upper & lower radiator hoses as well. I only removed the upper 1/2 of the intake. I change out the cover gaskets, reassemble every thing, reconnect all the connectors. I noticed that some of the connectors could apparently be switched to other sensors, but since all the lines seemed so backed solid, they actually retained their positions to go back onto the proper sensors.(at least I hoped so & it seemed that way).
Anyway, every thing back together & tightened up, so I start it up & the idle is at about 3000 to 3400 RPMs. WTF? So I pop the throttle a couple of times by hand and finally it drops down to normal, then just as suddenly, it begins SEARCHING for lack of a better word, and starts racing upto 2600 rpm then drops to 1200 then up again then down again.
No check engine light or other idiot lights on. So I shut it down & check all the connections and hoses, nothing disconnected or left off or loose. I start it again, and it immediately begins running high & low searching for the idle again.
I shut it down again, and put the MacPro scanner on it and NO codes either set or pending. I next check the Haynes Manual I have for it, & the closest thing I can find to my problem says: Engine Lopes while idling or idles erratically 1) Vac leak 2) Leaking EGR 3)Air filt clogged 4) Fuel pump not delivering enough fuel 5) Leaking head gasket 6) Timing belt/sprockets worn 7) Camshaft lobes worn
By process of elimination, not #'s 2) According to service manual, there is no EGR valve on the 2.7, and I couldn't find one either, #3) Air Filter is new & clean, #4) ran fine before I worked on it & with the engine revving up to 34 or 3600 rpms, getting plenty of fuel, #5) Have had many head gasket problems over the years on many vehicles, never anything like this, and again, it ran fine until I worked on it #6 & 7) Doesn't seem to me to be a belt sprocket or cam shaft problem, as none of that was touched & again, it ran fine until I worked on it. This kind of narrows it down to #1, for me, but this is not like any vacuum leak I have ever come across in 45 years of auto repair. I have found & fixed many stumbling idles due to minor leaks but never had anything like this.
I next called a friend who owned an automotive machine shop & who I used to do work for, and now runs a highway dept garage for a municipality who has been a certified mechanic for many years, told him all the above & the only thing he could come up with was a MAJOR vacuum leak, like possibly the upper plenum gasket rolled up or got torn some how when I replaced the plenum and he suggested that I try a smoke test.
Scratching my head, I go back to the car, & break out my home made smoke machine that I use to successfully pinpoint leaks in emissions systems. I ran it for quite awhile, and found some light smoke leaking from somewhere down around the head, but due to the construction of the engine & no way to get the light to shine under the plenum, could only guess that he may have been right & that there may be a large leak down at the lower intake manifold to head gasket. Needless to say, I removed the upper plenum again, & this time also the manifold to heads, and the gaskets looked like they may possibly have leaked slightly between the ports, & quite possibly somewhere around the number 6 cylinder. So I cleaned the surfaces & am putting on the new gaskets that came in the set with the upper plenum to manifold gasket set.
My questions after relating all of this:
1) The 2 gaskets between the manifold & the cylinder heads have a blue stripe around all 3 cylinder port holes (appears to be some kind of sealant or factory applied silicone bead) & there are no markings of any kind anywhere on the gaskets, so do the blue stripes face DOWN to the heads or UP to the bottom of the intake manifold ?
2) Regardless of which way these stripes face, should I use any kind of high temp sealant around the port holes in addition to the gaskets, or just install them dry ?
3) Can the Idle Air Control on the Throttle Body Fail & affect the idle like the problem I am having, but NOT set a computer code ?
4) Can the Throttle Position Sensor affect the idle like this and NOT set a computer code?
5) I also found an electronic valve between the Air Intake & firewall, it is labeled PCV and has an OEM part number after that, I believe this to be the Purge Control Valve, which connects the TB to a plastic line which I believe runs down to the emissions canister under the vehicles front seats. Am I correct in thinking that even if this part had failed, it would have NOTHING to do with my erratic Idle problem, but would throw an emissions computer code?
My 2007 Hyundia Santa Fe has an erratic knocking/clicking sound when idling & has for about 6 months or so. Other than the clicking noise it drives just fine. I am wondering if this may be a result of a bad oil change experience I had in 2012. I'll explain ....
When driving home, once the car had warmed up, my oil pressure warning light came on whenever I came to a stop or idling. I thought this was strange but thought maybe it had to do with new oil fill & would go away.
All I knew was I didn't have the problem before the oil change - nor have I ever in all the time I have owned the car - seen the oil pressure light come on and stay on once the car is started. So I brought the car into Hyundai as soon as I could to explain the situation. They opened the oil filter compartment and quickly realized that whoever changed the filter neglected to put back a part that sits on top of the filter that regulates the oil pressure (only a $15 part without which the damage & cost of driving without is potentially huge).
There is more, but I think you get the drift. So, I am wondering if possible damage as a result of that faulty oil change might have something to do with my current problem or is it not possible given the time/km between when that happened and now? The car had just over 80,000 km at the time and currently has aprox 105,000. I have properly maintained the oil etc since that as well as prior to.
Vehicle: 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD ... Oil light coming on when braking hard.
Anyway, my problem was my oil light coming on at idle. Initially, it happened to my wife and she called me about it, and I attributed it to the cold weather and thick oil maybe not pumping properly when the vehicle was cold. After driving it myself, I realized this only seems to happen AFTER the vehicle has warmed up to operating temps. Took it to the dealership, they told me it was a bad oil pressure switch, put in a new one and off I went. (Note: oil was also changed at the dealership when they put in the new oil pressure switch)
Here I am two days later with the same problem. Just about to work this morning and sure enough, the oil light came on again while stopped at a stoplight.
Attached a picture below of my dash...the light flickers and comes on when the idle drops. I've never taken notice before, but what is the actual idle speed of the 3.5L? When the light is on, mine is about 500 rpm...
Also, for those of you with a keen eye, note the distance travelled (238 kms) on my current tank of fuel. Cold weather + all short trips within city limits does not make for a happy Santa Fe.
98 Honda Accord with 2.3L has 354,000 miles on it and up until recently ran like it was still new. Have developed erratic idle speeds. When it is cold it idles around 1100-1200 rpm. When the radiator fans are on or the A/C compressor is on it runs around 800-900 rpm. These are normal speeds and great. However, when the engine is warm/hot, in PARK, radiator fans are off, and A/C compressor kicks off, the idle speed drops to what appears to be about a rough idling 500 rpm's and the engine can barely stay running. I've attempted to look for the obvious. I own the Honda Shop Service manual if there is a particular component or most likely suspect area I should start at.
View 6 Replies2007 Santa Fe 3.5 ... All of a sudden today the engine is vacillating and at idle shuts off. I have to keep my left foot on the brake pedal and the other on the right to keep it running without lurching forward. Does this sound like the throttle body?
View 1 RepliesI have now had the first major issue with my 2012 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD. It started out with an intermittent low oil pressure light coming on at idle. As I researched I found the Oil Pressure Switch thread:
Oil Pressure Switch Replacement - 2010 Santa Fe 3.5L
And using that information I proceeded to replace the switch and while the switch had obviously failed unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. I tore everything down a second time to make sure the replacement switch hadn't failed and to make sure it wasn't leaking. Turns out that everything looked good yet the oil pressure light was still coming on after everything was warmed up.
Tonight I tore everything down for a third time to put an extension hose on the oil pressure port so I could hook up a mechanical pressure gauge in addition to the oil switch. While I am very pleased with how the extension hose worked out, however it appears that I do indeed have low oil pressure. Without letting it warm up completely I was dropping down below 15psi.
I guess at this point my best case scenario is a malfunctioning oil pump and worst case is worn bearings. With only 67k miles and fairly religious oil changes I am praying for the oil pump. My next step is to contact the dealer as I am still under the powertrain warranty, hopefully that goes well. I will try to keep this thread updated as I learn more. Up to this point I have really enjoyed the Santa Fe and have had minimal issues with it.
I have a santa fe from the year 2008 and recently i had a trip where i would get tons of white smoke every time the car was at idle at the stop light. upon inspection, i saw that the coolant level was below the low line so i had it topped up and the problem disappeared. Everything was fine until today when the problem occurred so i checked the coolant level on the side of the road but the coolant level was fine and still is upon inspection when the car was cooled off. After i stopped to check the coolant level and restarting the car, the smoke was gone and did not appear again. I checked the internet for solutions and some suggest blown head gasket but many of the symptoms do not make sense in my case since the engine never overheats and the coolant level hasn't gone down in the past week.
View 3 RepliesI have an 07 with the 3.3L and on start up the engine runs really rough and while driving when warm it keeps losing power with a regular rhythm. It almost feels like and injector or ign coil is dropping out. I have no CEL and have recently changed the spark plugs and rear upper O2 sensor.
View 5 RepliesWhile the car is at a full stop it idles at 500 rpm. I am assuming this is normal. But randomly the accelerator dips and the entire car jerks and feels like the engine is going to choke.
This started happening when the vehicle was at 10K miles and I took it to the dealer but the problem did not repeat itself there. They said they ran all sorts of diagnostics and came up with nothing. At this time the problem would occur may be a few times a week, while waiting at a red light, etc.
Now the vehicle is a 30K miles and it is happening more frequently. Several times a day.
I recorded a video of it to better explain the problem.
When I start the engine it works fine while the motor is cold (idle normal all smooth). When the engine the temperature reach normal operating range the car loose power and idle drops to 350-500 rpm and if i am driving I can not go over 40mi/h. I drive a 2008 Sta Fe now with 96000 KM (~~60000 miles). A month ago the engine start shaking severely and knocking noise (like some spark plugs where not working), from this to now:
Changed all sparks plugs
Changed all ignition coils
Now this situation looks more related to temperature of the engine.
I have a 2008 Santa Fe 2,2 CRDi that recently started to behave bad. When cold it starts but runs only for a few seconds before it dies. The engine seems to shut off without any notice. I am able to start the car again straight away, but the same thing happens.
If I try to push the throttle I might be able to keep it running for a longer while, and it seems to improve as the engine gets warmer, but it still dies after a while. (Some minutes.) When running, the engine feels kind of rough (hard) and not a smooth as its supposed to be.
I have cleaned the EGR valve, and replaced all the injectors. I also checked the diesel filter for water and flow, but didn't replaced as it was changed this summer.
The car is a no runner as it is now, since the uncontrolled shutdown of the engine makes it danger to use in the traffic.
Trying to find any information on what's happening with my 2008 2.2 Diesel Santa Fe ... Been driving fine until I pulled up at a set of traffic lights yesterday and started hearing a loud rattle- knocking coming from the engine at idle.
Put it in gear and drove and it goes away. When at idle if you rev the car it goes away.
Mechanic seems to think it could be clutch as it vibrates the gearbox, but sound seems to be more prominent around the engine, my thoughts were maybe a loose timing tensioner.
Clutch replacement is very expensive.
Bought a 2001 from a used car dealership about 2 months ago. A week later it started acting funny. It would often race the rpm's about 2000 when at at stop light and then others times would act like I was out of gas when I would take off. Sputtered and then finally run normally. Then other times it wouldn't start and just crank over and over. After 10-15 times it would fire up and then act like nothing was wrong. It was a total crap shoot whether it would start or not each time.
Took it back to dealership and supposedly their mechanic installed a new fuel pump. Ran like a champ for about another two weeks and then exact same symptoms started showing up.
I have a 2009 Santa Fe, v6, and the check engine light and "ESC OFF" lights are on consistently.
I read the check engine light may be the gas cap so I replaced it but the light is still on. Took the car to Advanced Auto Parts and they said it was related to the cruise control.
I also read that the ESC OFF light may be due to alignment issues. I had an alignment done last Saturday but the light is still on. When they checked the check engine light they said it was related to the emissions. This was at a Firestone shop.
Any common cause for these lights to be on at 30,000 miles? I changed the transmission fluid also recently which the manual says to do at 30,000 miles.
At roughly 140,000 miles, my wife's '07 Santa Fe GLS has thrown a P0456 code. Does this code on a Santa Fe common?
It is "evaporative emission system leak detected (very small leak)." The good news, I guess, is that it is 'very small.' However, being small may make it more difficult to detect.