My 2007 Santa Fe 2.2 Diesel. The engine oil level is increasing, smells like diesel . Sometimes the Engine Check light comes on and goes out after a couple of days. I do a lot of short journeys and few motorway miles. Not sure if DPF problem or fuel leaking into sump.
View 3 RepliesThe dealer changed my oil last time and I checked it a few months ago and it was right at the top dot in the dipstick. I checked it again now and it is at a higher level, above the top dot by maybe about a quarter inch. The car is a 2011 honda accord with 15,000 miles on it. What's going on?
View 19 Replies2012 F-150 ecoboost oil level rising up to 1 qt over full. Took it to the dealer, They are installing a block heater and a new vent line. Cannot see what a block heater is going to do for me in a warm climate. I will let them do there thing and see what happens. 24,000 mils on the truck and warranty runs out in Dec 2015.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2008 3.3 base model in which the climate controls wont change exhaust location. That is to say, it is stuck on bi-level right now. Recirculation still functions.
At least a year ago, it started making an unusual fast clicking/grinding noise whenever I switched from defrost or bi-level to a vent positions. The noise can be best described as something you would expect to hear from a Lego electric motor. It didn't sound serious and it only made this noise a few seconds as the vent changed. Recently, it remained in the vent position and would not move to defrost. Then, suddenly one day it changed to bi-level and has never made a noise or changed position since.
Summer heat here is unbearable and I need the A/C to blow out the vents so I want to manually change the position if I cannot fix the problem altogether. Just don't know if this is vacuum controlled or an electric servo and where it may be located or how much effort to get to it.
I have a 2007 Santa Fe Limited with 112000 miles on it, and its having some issues with the fuel gauge. It doesn't tell me the accurate gas level in tank.. it's either half-full or on empty. The check engine light is also on. What could be the problem? Is it an expensive fix?
View 1 RepliesSo a couple days ago i replaced the fuel level sensors in my 07 gls 2.7 liter santa fe and all was well for 2 days. I had finally driven it enough that the codes cleared from active status and the car turned off the cel. However, during the same ignition cycle the engine started missing a bit and the cel came back on and started flashing at me. Codes found now are p2187 lean bank one and p2189 lean bank two, plus p0302 misfire detected cyl 2. I've tried the carb cleaner trick looking for a vacuum leak.. but no luck. Air intake boot is good vacuum lines look good etc. What might be going on? Did i get debris in the tank and glog an injector with it? Fuel pump itself appears to be operational. No bogging down or loss of power under heavy acceleration.
View 1 Replies2008 hyundai santa fe. 106,000
Bought the car six months ago.Found out 2 weeks later we couldn't put gas in it. Dealership refused to fix it because we bought as is. So we managed to find one gas station in a 20 Mile radius that we could put gas in it.It takes around 10 minutes to put half a tank in. Shortly after that the gas gauge started to fluctuate from full to empty. And the check engine finally came on. Had the the check engine light checked.Fuel level sensor A was faulty. Took it to a local Goodyear in stead of the dealer ship. The sensors were 119.00 a piece and the labor was 145.00 to replace both. Had both replaced .Fuel gauge is working correctly now. But still having issue putting gas in car.
The diesel filter water level light came on today and I noticed a lack of power. I drained of the water which made no difference so I replaced the filter which still made no difference . The light is still on and the engine is powerless from 2000 rpm .
View 2 RepliesI have a Chevy lumina Euro 3.1l from '92. I have a little problem with it:
My temp gauge, in the dashbord, says the engine is getting to hot. When the car is in idle, the temp gauge will just keep rising to around 190-200 F, when driving 2-3 miles, it will keep going up to 260 F and the heat indicator will start flashing.
When we measure the engine's temperature with a IR thermometer at the thermostat house it says 180 F, so the thermostat and the fans work just fine. (the fans kick in when getting over 180)
We have tryed replace the temp sensor twice, but getting the same result/problem. The problem just came out of nowhere.
I have a santa fe 2002 2.7 gls 4X4 automatic. I put today for the 1st time supreme gaz and the level of the gas stuck in the 1st quarter even if i turn the engine off...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Sante Fe, it has about 96000KM on it. It is a 3.3 engine AWD.
I find that when I accelerate the thing kind of feels rough. It is very subtle. Like you can almost miss it if I wasn't being so picky. But I can definitely feel something there. What this would be.
With about 32K miles, I started getting a knock in the morning that would go away when warmed up. When I took the car in for service, I mentioned it and the service adviser said, it sounds like the timing chain tensioner leaking down, we have seen that.
Well it was not the tensioners, I was informed that, it was low oil pressure that did NOT trigger the oil light or any warnings, and my main bearings and a rod bearing were shot, it seems that the oil pump was not putting out as it should. Supposedly, it was only putting out 10 PSI. Oddly enough once the engine warmed up, there was no lifter/tappet noise that would indicate low oil pressure that I have experienced in the past with other engines.
The oil has been changed on time, the oil was clean, and the engine was not abused. Other than this the car ran fine. So the short block was replaced under warranty. This is a 3.5 V6.
This is quite disturbing, that some type of low oil pressure message or idiot light was not flashing on my dash. I have seen oil pumps from other manufacturers produce low oil pressure if the pressure relieve valve was stuck open.
I own a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 3.3 V6 engine and 129,000 miles, I am the second owner. When I bought the car a month ago I had it tuned up by a local shop, not the dealer, I was getting around 23 MPG hwy and around 17 City, then just this week I noticed an increase in gas consumption to 13 mpg in the city and the car losses power when coming off a stop. I took the car to the shop and the said that there was a faulty coolant sensor, they replaced it and I drove it home, the car lost fire 3 times within 5 miles from the shop.
I took the car back to the shop and they kept it there for half a day, when I stop by they said that their computer shows two reports, one a faulty oxygen sensor and the other a problem with the catalytic converter, I asked which converter and they could not tell me. I also inquired why is it that the check engine light has not come on once, they also had no answer.
I then too it to a muffler shop, explained the situation and they said that if there is no check engine on they cannot diagnose the problem, thus drove back home where the car lost fire twice, always coming off a full stop, no hesitation, no missing, the car's engine simply goes off, I turn the key and comes back to life, it doesn't shake or sputter, as if nothing happened and again, no check engine light.
As appear on the attached video , sometimes the ESP off and ABS lights again at Engine start , and after the switch on checkup. Is that normal , or indicate upcoming issue?
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My car is an 08 AWD 3.3 I am noticing the engine will do a slight rev up, down, up, down when cold almost daily when I leave work in the afternoons.
I removed the airbox and intake tubing, cleaned the throttle body with TB cleaner and mass air sensor with electronics cleaner. I also used about half of a bottle of seafoam in one of the vacuum lines to the engine, and the other half in the fuel tank. Also ran some Chevron fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank. Nothing seemed to make a difference. It still persists.
It's noticeable the most in neutral, you can watch the tach rev up from 800 rpm to about 1100 and back down repeatedly. If the car is in drive and the brake is lightly applied, it will want to move when its revving up.
How to replace the engine air filter in my 2010 Santa Fe? I can see where it is but I am having a hard time taking it out after I loosen the clips.
View 19 RepliesRecently with sunny days, 25-30 degrees celsius, my late 06' CRDI Santa Fe starts to shut off while in the traffic jam. After engine restart car runs fine while idling but after i put in Drive (its a 5 speed AT) it shuts off again. After 2-3 restarts i may able to pull my car aside the road and let it cool. One other thing i have noticed is the temperature gauge. The needle is sitting slightly under middle mark and my torque app shows 114-115 degrees celsius ? It is pretty high dont you think ? Sometimes its over the middle bar and then my OBD torque app shows 120 degrees. I would exclude Crankshaft position sensor, because car restarts just fine, if it was CPS then it should not start for a while?
View 5 RepliesMy 2012 V6 Santa Fe turned itself off on the freeway today, only 3500 miles,
was in stop and go traffic, stopped and the car just turned off! No shaking or anything. Turned back on (so its not the battery, and YES it had plenty of gas), went about 100 ft and turned off again! Took into the dealer, they won't have an answer until Monday.
I am currently on the highway in a remote area and have an oil leak at bottom of engine. There is a small hole where two housings come together, see photo.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2009 with 45,000 miles. It has been idling goofy for a while. Last winter when it was cold it the engine when first started would jump around between 200 - 800rpm when idling. I went and had the fuel system cleaned. It wasn't noticeable when it was warm out and it did not jump around as dramatically on cold starts. Lately it started bouncing on every start from 400rpm-800rpm. It drives fine, just idles bouncy. The other night it lost power while driving. The engine was running but when the accelerator was pushed it would not speed up. It was limping along at 20mph and the engine light on the dash turned on. After sitting for little bit, the engine light was off and drove normally again. I have an apt. for the dealer to look at it next week, but of course I will not be able to recreate the event and there are no error codes.
View 1 RepliesThree times in the past 2 weeks my Santa Fe wouldn't start. Never first thing in the morning but after the car is warmed up. I have stopped for gas/run into a store for 10 minutes. When I get back and turn the key I get electrical power (radio and fan etc.) but no cranking or engine turnover. It happened on a rainy day and twice when it was very hot and humid so maybe the electronic components are faulty.
After 10 or 15 minutes the car will start as if nothing is wrong and then I'll go for several days without any problem. I've tried both keys and I tried moving the second key around the steering wheel - in case the engine immobilizer is having trouble reading the key.
I have had the car since April 2, 2007 and I put only 3500 kms on it. It's a GLS 3.3L 7 passenger. I've read that it could be the crank position sensor.