Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: ESP Light Has Been Coming On
Oct 4, 2012
The car had its first service last month but since then the ESP light has come on permanently on three separate occasions and has to be reset by turning the ignition off. Suppose I will have to book it back in -I read elsewhere it could be cause by wheel alignment or faulty connection somewhere?
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Vehicle: 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD ... Oil light coming on when braking hard.
Anyway, my problem was my oil light coming on at idle. Initially, it happened to my wife and she called me about it, and I attributed it to the cold weather and thick oil maybe not pumping properly when the vehicle was cold. After driving it myself, I realized this only seems to happen AFTER the vehicle has warmed up to operating temps. Took it to the dealership, they told me it was a bad oil pressure switch, put in a new one and off I went. (Note: oil was also changed at the dealership when they put in the new oil pressure switch)
Here I am two days later with the same problem. Just about to work this morning and sure enough, the oil light came on again while stopped at a stoplight.
Attached a picture below of my dash...the light flickers and comes on when the idle drops. I've never taken notice before, but what is the actual idle speed of the 3.5L? When the light is on, mine is about 500 rpm...
Also, for those of you with a keen eye, note the distance travelled (238 kms) on my current tank of fuel. Cold weather + all short trips within city limits does not make for a happy Santa Fe.
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We have a 2007 Santa Fe ,when it rains there is a big wet spot in cargo area, we see water dripping in from overhead light by hatch door, so what to be done to rectify problem ...
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I have now had the first major issue with my 2012 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD. It started out with an intermittent low oil pressure light coming on at idle. As I researched I found the Oil Pressure Switch thread:
Oil Pressure Switch Replacement - 2010 Santa Fe 3.5L
And using that information I proceeded to replace the switch and while the switch had obviously failed unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. I tore everything down a second time to make sure the replacement switch hadn't failed and to make sure it wasn't leaking. Turns out that everything looked good yet the oil pressure light was still coming on after everything was warmed up.
Tonight I tore everything down for a third time to put an extension hose on the oil pressure port so I could hook up a mechanical pressure gauge in addition to the oil switch. While I am very pleased with how the extension hose worked out, however it appears that I do indeed have low oil pressure. Without letting it warm up completely I was dropping down below 15psi.
I guess at this point my best case scenario is a malfunctioning oil pump and worst case is worn bearings. With only 67k miles and fairly religious oil changes I am praying for the oil pump. My next step is to contact the dealer as I am still under the powertrain warranty, hopefully that goes well. I will try to keep this thread updated as I learn more. Up to this point I have really enjoyed the Santa Fe and have had minimal issues with it.
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I have nothing selected but have to have temperature selected and whether dual is on or not it comes out the same AC button turns on a light but I don't have it on nor Auto. It is not pushed.
However, the air coming in is much cooler than the outside ambient air. Its in the low 20's C and my wife's car which is all manual is much warmer air as I would expect. The AC has to be running in the SF and no way to turn it off. Pressing the OFF button kills he fan etc. Which is not what I want. I do want cool outside air. Some how it appears cooling is taking place without any viable means of not running it.
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O.K., I admit I get obsessive compulsive with my new cars for a few weeks after I buy them. Just got the '08 Limited and am trying to find where a few little noises are coming from. I've eliminated most now, but the 1 thing really bugging me is the seat belts. The rear belt part that you grab and then buckle into the seat latch rattles like crazy over bumps. It's just the piece hitting that plastic grommet in the middle of the belt. So, short of leaving the belts latched in place or (hubbys suggestion) turning the radio up, is there something to prevent them from making this racket? I almost never use the rear belts.
Compared to my 2004 I'm surprised I am bothered by it, but it is so quite it really stands out. That cheap plastic liner in the back also bugs me as the "wings" at the wheel wells rattle. I had a super heavy duty plastic liner and a really nice carpet mat in my 2004 that I really miss. Oh well, I guess they have to cut costs somewhere. Oh, almost had a near heart attack last night when I used my spare key and it got STUCK in the ignition! Took hubby 10 minutes to yank it out. I think it was a faulty key as they gave me 3 keys instead of 2. I think they knew it was bad, cut another and never discarded the bad one. Other than that no complaints so far and hope to stay as trouble free as my last one which never saw the inside of a repair shop in the 4 years I owned it.
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I have 120K miles on my 07 Santa Fe Limited AWD. I have a significant buzz/hum coming from the rear. It varies in pitch with the speed of the vehicle, and the intensity seems to be less when when veering right. I'm guessing that's a bad bearing, which of course means a hub assembly. Prices seem to be all over the place, but I also see that some have a sensor and others do not. I'm assuming that's an ABS sensor.
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Whine that I am getting coming up from below the gear stick ,is certainly seems that it is a noisy bearing as noise stops when car does so I think it may be the bearing mounted in the rear of the casing/gearbox just in front of the rubber coupling but the dealer cant seem to find it in his parts list.
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On Sunday, I was driving on the highway and noticed an intermittent hum/rumble which seemed like it was coming from the front of the car. At first, I thought it was due to the road quality where you encounter cuts/cracks in the road which could cause similar hum/rumble. The condition of the road changed over to a brand new smooth surface for several miles. I noticed that the same hum/rumble was still there.
I'm not sure how else to describe this?... The tires would go through several rotations before each hum/rumble. For example, x = tire rotations and y = hum/rumble.
xxx y xxx y xxx y xxx y ...very similar to driving on rumble strips that have been placed on the road.
When I got off the highway I also noticed that this hum/rumble would occur during regular driving speeds.
I checked tire pressure all around and all was fine. Took a quick peek underneath and could not spot anything out of the ordinary.
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Just bought a used 2011 SF GLS and the interior lights weren't coming on. I engaged the "door" button on the back seat dome light and they now come on as they should when the doors are opened or closed. BUT I can't get the front map lights to come on at all when the door opens. Engaging the "door" button for the map lights doesn't do it.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe & in the past every time the temp got below 32 my windshield wiper fluid would not come out. We put in the fluid that does not freeze. I brought it in and they just told me the nozzle had debris in it and nothing else was wrong. Next week same thing. Now when I go to put the fluid on the front windshield all I get is the wipers running & no fluid and at the same time the back wipers come on, but no fluid, which never happened before. Back wipers are separate from the front.
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Back to my 2007 FWD 2.7L Santa Fe. It has no Visors because a prior owner had them break and fall while driving, hitting them in the face. They dangled by the vanity light wires. They tore them out to get the visor out of their face before an accident happened. I priced new visors at $230 a pair plus shipping online. Ouch, a lot for another set of junk visors!
Recently the car stumbles and the ESC and engine light comes on. Had the codes checked then I and surfed the web and found it to likely be the TPS but the only one to fix it would be of course be the dealer. Diagnosis is $125. plus $70 part plus installation and then $105 to reprogram the TPS. I found the part online for $35. I will install it and then take it to the dealer to program it. So $140 instead of $500! I have yet to do that because I took the TB off and cleaned it. It stumbled a few more times and then ran fine for weeks. Its doing it again though once in a while, some days nothing happens others it happens 4 or 5 times. So I will have to get it done sooner than later. I have however found that it wont stumble and die if I put the car in neutral before I come to a stop. It just happens when its in gear, otherwise it runs fine. So until I take it in to replace the TPS I will use that technique.
I will follow up once I have installed the new TPS and had it programmed so you all will know if that took care of it. I have read some installed the TPS and in short time the computer adjusted to where it worked fine but fuel mileage was poor. Being I know how to drive it to keep it from dying at a stop now, I will wait until I get time and $100 to take it to the dealer for programming.
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Our 2009 Santa Fe has a knocking sound coming from the undercarriage of the vehicle. It cannot be heard when parked or when coasting. If I gently depress the gas pedal enough to rev the engine to 1500-2000 rpm when traveling at speeds of 35mph or greater it can be heard. The rate of the knocking / thumping appears to be related to vehicle speed, i.e., the faster we move, the higher the knocking rate.
Yesterday I emptied the vehicle of all contents and was still able to produce the sound upon demand.
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2010 SF Limited, about 46,000 KM.
Heard a grinding noise coming from the back of the truck today. First thing I thought to look at was the rotors. They looked warped/wavy and were really hot. I'm worried that the pads are used up and its metal on metal, really looks like rotor damage. I'm confused by this...
1) I get a safety inspection done every time i'm in for service (6km), no service rep has ever warned me about my pads.
2) Aren't squealers supposed to warn the driver of low pads?
3) Pads wear out faster in the front than they do in the back. How could the back pads be used up already? The front looks fine.
So if my back calipers are seized, or the e-brake line froze, then i'm driving with the back brakes engaged full time. This should not have happened to a truck so young. Do I have a warranty case here?
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I have a 2007 SF Ltd. About 6 months ago I noticed a tiny grinding noise coming from the front end. I took it to the place that installed the brakes and rotors and had them look at it. The said that they didn't see anything but the cleaned up the rotors and oiled the slide pins. That didn't seem to sold the problem, so I took it to the shop that does all my inspections and such. They mentioned that they didn't see anything and that if if was only first thing in the morning, it might be some very minor rust that is building and being worn off. Lately, the grinding noise has gotten much more consistent and loud. Both places said the pads looked almost new and other than the turning of the rotors, they looked fine. If it isn't the pads or the rotors, what could be causing the grinding noise? A friend of mine had the same issue but his dealer told him that his vehicle "just had noisy brakes". That doesn't see to be an acceptable answer.
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I can't find the obd port on my new 2007 SF. Also there is a clunking coming from the front suspension when i go over bumps, what is the most common cause of this?
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I'm having an issues with my Santa Fe MY07 - Basically I was driving down the dual carriage way last week when suddenly the oil light came on and with the 500m it took me to stop a loud tapping noise was coming from the engine as it seized - The break down people came out to the car as they were inspecting it they informed me that the Sump cap was missing - the car is under warranty - however Hyundai as say that because the cannot find out why the sump cap had came off (and that in there mind they cannot give any reason why it should of) it is there for NOT a manufacturing issue and that they would not cover the repairs under warranty...
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Yesterday afternoon when driving back home from a weekend trip I noticed something that I never experienced before. I was climbing a long hill with 4 passengers, the A/C on and the engine under full throttle reaching 5k-6k before shifting from 3rd to 4th, I noticed the air coming out of the vents would get momentarily a bit warmer during this intense acceleration period and then once the revs would drop it would get cold as usual.
Is this the normal behavior of the A/C compressor? Does it get shut momentarily under heavy accel by the ECM? Or is it faulty and it requires a change. My Santa is pretty much new, it's a 2012 model with only 2000km!
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I have a 2011 Sante Fe AWD 3.5L with 22K on it. The last few days I have been hearing this chirping noise coming from the left rear tire when I am stopped. When I am driving with windows closed or open I do not hear it, but when I pull into my driveway or a parking spot I hear it occasionally. Today, since I am looking out for it I get home, get out of the car and go to the left rear wheel well and sure enough it sounds like a chirping noise. Does not sound like it is mechanical and when I look under the car all seems OK. I put my ear right up to the top of the wheel near the well and I hear it. Sometimes it does not happen..
I suspect the Tire Pressure Monitoring System.....
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I just bought a 2006 (mk2) Santa Fe 2.2 CDX manual.Overall I'm pleased with the car but I have noticed over the past week of ownership a whining noise coming from under the floor area towards the front (I think). The noise only occurs around the 20mph mark ( no other speed) and is there whether I'm in gear or just coasting.The car has done 43000 (so not high mileage) has a full service history and only one owner prior to me. It does have a tow bar (which I wanted) just I case this may be relevant.
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I've a new Santa Fe bought in March this year. Car works perfectly but i just noticed a whistling noise problem coming from the top/back of the car (it si located over the roof) when reaching speed of 70mph or above.
I removed the roof rack cross rails but still this noise remains. I feel it is something related to the aerodynamic of this car and the particular roof rails system. Tried to tape some connections between the rails and the car roof but nothing is changing.
I drive mostly on highway all days for work and this problem is driving me mad. I took back car to the dealer, he checkd (but i'm not sure) telling that everything is "normal"!
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