Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Difficult To Start - Normal Cranking Noises But Won't Fire Up Immediately
Dec 29, 2011
My '08 2.7 has difficulty starting in the morning. It makes the normal cranking noises but won't fire up immediately. I typically let it try to catch for 5-10 seconds, pause, and try again. Then I wait a minute, try again, and everything starts fine. Then it'll start normally the rest of the day.
Pardon my ignorance, but isn't there some sort of compartment that holds fuel into the engine with a check valve that keeps it from releasing back into the tank? Could it be that this valve is leaking?
Or does it sound like I need a whole new fuel pump? I tried to find schematics, but had no luck. I tired hmaservice.com, but I'm not willing to install the Adobe SVG app (obsolete and security risk) to view the documents.
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I have Golf MK4 variant 1.6 77kw BCB 2005y
When i crank engine i hear it fire immediately for a fraction of a second, then it carries cranking empty few turns and then fires again.
Happens only on a first start after standing still few hours.
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 sohc engine.
Recently the truck started being difficult to start and takes a few times of cranking to get it going. Once running, it idles and drives fine on city streets and freeways. When trying to start it turns over fine but doesn't start. After a few times of that, it will finally start. Sometimes it will sputter out an die but then it will start right away and be fine.
It never starts right away when cold and when hot or after short trips its intermittent...Sometimes it will start right up...others it takes a time or two of cranking. I just replaced the fuel filter and it did not work. I am thinking the fuel pump but since its in the tank, I am hoping its not that.
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Question about the oil light. On a cold start the oil pressure light goes out immediately.
After driving around for a while (engine warmed up) and shutting off the engine for anywhere between 45 to 60 minutes or so and then starting the engine again, the oil light will go out immediately, but then SOMETIMES, pop back on, MAYBE flicker, then stay off. This all takes place in less than a second, almost a microsecond. This is all very intermittent too, No rhyme or reason as to temp or time between starts. Engine is very quiet, except for a COLD start (over night). I use 5-20 and it makes no difference whether using conventional or synthetic.
I change my own oil, but dealer did it once and I still get the same issue. I suspect the sending unit, or is this 'normal'?
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On the wifes Santa Fe 2.4 AWD every few starts it seems to crank over longer than it should. It will usually crank right up like it is supposed to. Every few times it may take 3-4 seconds of cranking before it will fire.
The car runs great, averages over 30mpg per the computer. No codes. I don't have a clue what it could be.
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2009 Toyota corolla Automatic, 1.8L NON 1ZZFE
Died while Friend was driving .
No MIL, no history or pending codes.
Verified spark with a test plug and a ignition wire tester. Has spark while cranking.
Verified engine has fuel at injectors, removed rail and attempted to start while monitoring injectors, visually fuel is being sprayed out.
Verified compression by removing #2 spark plug, inserted finger into hole, compression forces my finger out of the cylinder head.
Security light comes one initially for 2 second when key is turned on, but goes away during cranking.
Cranks nicely, wont fire or start.
Not sure what's wrong, looking for an EFI or Ignition wiring diagram.
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Here is what I have:
2009 Santa Fe 3.3L AWD
70k KMs / 43k Miles
Temp has been very cold, -20C / -4 F
Car starts up without any problems. Try to put car in Reverse and the shifter is very hard to move, if it moves at all. When I am able to get it into Reverse, I then try to put it in Drive and it does not "engage" the "D" and the car behaves like its in Neutral. Moving the shifter back to Park, Neutral, Drive is very difficult and sometimes it will not go into Park. The dash lights do not illuminate the selected P, R, N, D.
However, once the car is warmed up (no longer on C on the temperature gauge) I can with a little effort move the shifter freely (but more effort than it should take) and the car behaves normally. Gear shifts are smooth and in general it is operating normally.
The dash lights do illuminate the selected P, R, N, D. I've checked the Trans fluid level and it appears to be normal and was planning to change it this w-e but I'm no longer sure it will work. Even if it has never been changed.
Also note that I have recently changed a wheel/hub bearing due to a noise that sounds a lot like loud tires on a highway. The bearing change did not eliminate the noise and I assumed that I've changed the wrong one. The noise does not appear to be coming from the Trans, but I cant be 100% sure. The noise is speed related and occurs only after about 20KM/h 16MPH. Unsure if they are related..
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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Having an issue with my 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L. When the engine is cold, been sitting for a few hours not when the temp outside is cold, it takes about 5 to 8 cranks before the engine will fire. I can then shut it off immediately and start it again and it will fire right up.
I currently have the P0464, P0463 and P2068 check engine error codes for the fuel level sensor units. I don't really know if these are directly related as I've had them for about 6 months and the starting issue has just shown up the last month or so. Plus, I would assume these should only be related to sending fuel level information to the fuel gauge. Either way, I'm still leaning toward a fuel delivery issue since it only has a hard time starting when the car has been sitting for a few hours. I don't know if maybe it's the fuel pump or a electrical component. If it's the fuel pump, I'd like to do that when I take care of the sending units so I don't have to go back in. I've tried turning the car to the 'on" position for about 10 seconds without starting it to see if I could get the pump to load the line, if that's the issue, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
The battery is good. It tested 12.5v after sitting over night.
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Three times in the past 2 weeks my Santa Fe wouldn't start. Never first thing in the morning but after the car is warmed up. I have stopped for gas/run into a store for 10 minutes. When I get back and turn the key I get electrical power (radio and fan etc.) but no cranking or engine turnover. It happened on a rainy day and twice when it was very hot and humid so maybe the electronic components are faulty.
After 10 or 15 minutes the car will start as if nothing is wrong and then I'll go for several days without any problem. I've tried both keys and I tried moving the second key around the steering wheel - in case the engine immobilizer is having trouble reading the key.
I have had the car since April 2, 2007 and I put only 3500 kms on it. It's a GLS 3.3L 7 passenger. I've read that it could be the crank position sensor.
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My 2009 Santa Fe with V6 runs a little under 3000 rpm at 65 mph. Is this normal? Seems a little high. No other problems with the engine.
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O.K., I admit I get obsessive compulsive with my new cars for a few weeks after I buy them. Just got the '08 Limited and am trying to find where a few little noises are coming from. I've eliminated most now, but the 1 thing really bugging me is the seat belts. The rear belt part that you grab and then buckle into the seat latch rattles like crazy over bumps. It's just the piece hitting that plastic grommet in the middle of the belt. So, short of leaving the belts latched in place or (hubbys suggestion) turning the radio up, is there something to prevent them from making this racket? I almost never use the rear belts.
Compared to my 2004 I'm surprised I am bothered by it, but it is so quite it really stands out. That cheap plastic liner in the back also bugs me as the "wings" at the wheel wells rattle. I had a super heavy duty plastic liner and a really nice carpet mat in my 2004 that I really miss. Oh well, I guess they have to cut costs somewhere. Oh, almost had a near heart attack last night when I used my spare key and it got STUCK in the ignition! Took hubby 10 minutes to yank it out. I think it was a faulty key as they gave me 3 keys instead of 2. I think they knew it was bad, cut another and never discarded the bad one. Other than that no complaints so far and hope to stay as trouble free as my last one which never saw the inside of a repair shop in the 4 years I owned it.
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I am having this issue if it's one. With the fuel level below last quarter, I'm having the time of starting the engine longer (cranking time). I tried several times, leaving the fuel level reach the last quarter, with same result. Reaching that level of fuel the problem appears.
Another issue is that sometimes when the day is hot and the fuel level is not necessary below quarter, the starting time is longer too. It's a Santa Fe AWD 2.4L Automatic.
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I just replaced the motor in a 2002 Sante Fe 2.7 due to timing belt breaking, this motor will not start, it turns over, but I am getting no fire to the coils. Crank sensor replaced waiting on the cam sensor, anything else it could be?
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My 2007 CM Santa Fe 45K miles began acting up intermittently. We have owned it 5 years from new and never any issues whatsoever. My wife told me that first thing in the morning it made a horrible clanking noise and the entire car shuddered so she shut it off. Then it cranked and ran for days normally. The other morning I got in it and cranked it and man, it sounded like rods knocking, pistons slapping the crank, it was awful. Actually it sounded like premature or off time detonation, the engine would not idle and would die.
After a couple more tries the engine cranked and ran smoothly but with increasing idle speed and after two instances of normal cranking but idle increasing ever upward (same morning in sequence of 10 minutes or so of trying) I called AAA and had it carried to the dealer afraid oil pump giving out, timing belt jumped, bad crank / cam sensors, who knows? Oil was changed 5K ago with Hyundai toilet paper filter.
Anyway dealer found a code, something about engine torque excess - who knows - it wasn't causing the horrible cranking idling banging noise... did some ECM/ECU update, and repaired a TSB for the passenger side Airbag seat detector. They kept it over night and still could not make it occur.
My wife is really worried because honestly it sounds like it's going to throw a rod or something *I know it doesn't have them*. It's just a horrible gut wrenching noise. Dealer mechanics could not find anything wrong and they kept it overnight to crank it cold, and when we picked it up today it cranked fine.... She can't trust it anymore.
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I drove my Aurora 300 miles one morning and when I arrived home it was running fine. I shut it off and went in the house and after 10 mins, went to leave again. It just cranked and cranked and wouldn't fire. I assumed it was the fuel pump and upon pricing one out, decided to wait and just plated another car. The Aurora sat all winter and now with the weather a little nicer, decided to try and fire it up last week. It cranked for a few seconds and there was a small explosion under the silver cover plate on the motor. It sounded like a backfire. It did it 2 more times and I stopped trying. It seemed to be coming from the intake and the foam on the under side of that silver plate is singed on the side by the power steering resovoir. Is there something there that could be pooched? Could it still be a fuel pump being that there is something exploding there? Could it be a fuel rail issue? I have read that there have been recalls. And where is this fuel pressure regulator?
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I just bought this car... today... ran great until I got a few exits from my apartment (I think the car knew I had my hopes up for successfully making it home) and all of a sudden the car shut down. There was no smoking, shuddering, or weird scents of any kind. Had my girlfriend following me and she said she didn't see or smell anything... the oil level is good, pretty clean... coolant is clean and pink... timing belt was just done about 5k ago... but she cranks and stumbles a little but that's about it. Battery died from repetitive attempts at starting and now I think that old girl needs to be replaced... but does this sound like a crank position sensor issue like I'm guessing? or possibly cam position sensor? Also might add that the dipstick and oil cap hole had a little smoke coming out of it when I pulled it to check the oil situation... B5 1.8T wagon
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So my oil doesn't leak when it off it will only leak when it's at normal driving temperate it is coming from the cast piece that my oil pan (the plastic piece) is on... Where it connects to the actual motor... Any clue what it would be? BTW it is a 2011 Santa Fe
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I had the head gasket replaced along with all the other gaskets that come in the kit. new radiator, water pump, thermostat and thermostat gasket. blew head gasket at 78,000 miles. So now that has been taken care of, slowly everything else is going bad. recently, i pulled up in front of someones house and my suv turned off. When I tried to start it again it made a clanking sound and would not start. AAA'd it home and pulled the timing cover where the source of the sound was coming from. Seen the tensioner pulley loose and the belt loose. got it back on tdc and still does not start. the cranking over sound is lagging and sounds whiny. thought maybe was out of gas so i got gas and now when i try to start it it still is winding but it backfired and there was smoke behind the upper intake and still wont start. It wants to start, but doesn't.
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This past winter I started having trouble with my '06 Santa Fe where I would turn the key to start my car and nothing would happen. No cranking, no clicking, no sound. My lights turn on fine, radio, everything else works just fine. Sometimes it won't start for 30+ minutes, and sometimes I'll just try a second time and it'll start up right away.
Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.
I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.
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2000 1.8t 5 speed Jetta ... The car has run fine up until recently when I started having some starting issues. It was intermittent, and got more frequent and longer. The car will crank but not fire. In the beginning, I could crank it for a few seconds, turn off and turn back on and then it would fire like nothing happen. This continued to happen and progressively get worse until I could not get it started, I could smell fuel which lead me to assume I had to spark.
Today I went out to swap crank sensors but only tried for a little while and cant really get my hand up there. So, I disconnected the battery for a while, went back and connected it, and it started. Up until this point I have had the same 2 codes, over/under boost, but the car has always ran with them present. I scanned today and got a p1545 Throttle position sensor code...But only got that one time. Ive been messing around with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and among one of these times, the EPC light came on and would not rev passed 1k rpm. turned it off, turned it on, and it was fine after that.
Im sure I have a sensor about to let go Im just not too sure which one it is. I dont have vcds and am not getting a low signal code from the crank sensor with the scanner I have.
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