Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Dash Lights Flickering / Low Frequency Noise When Engine Rev
May 17, 2016
I have a very strange electrical issue and CarMax is unable to find the source.
Detail of issue: It started 2 months ago before i left the country i took my car in to get the dreaded valve gasket cover and alternator and after taking the car back i left for Europe for 2 months. I was informed after 2 weeks that my car battery died and had to be jumped.
When I returned home I notice the following issues
1) Alternator Whine in my Sound System
2) Low frequency noise synchronized with engine rev that was triggering the sub low end making a very distinct wooom.
3) Sudden Power Loss for my secondary AMP. The base would cut on /off.
4) Light flicker in my Dashboard (only the GEAR LED) and the entire climate LCD. flicker also synchronized with engine rev.
5) POWER drop on the air con fans while breaking (the RPM would drop)
6) I saw the headlights where also flickering at the same frequency with the LCD and dash led a very noticeable flicker.
7) my headlights would dim when breaking.
8) My Car would start a bit slower (not as instant as before).
Initially i thought it was the my secondary amp that was causing the issue. I took the car to a great Audio shop and they said the On board Hyundai amp was sending weird signals. They said it was broken and i should have it replaced. I told them to disconnect the AMP from the car and leave it disconnected until i take the car back to Carmax.
I was hoping that was the cause ... it wasn't the lights keep flickering (at a far lower intensity probably due to the lower power consumption overall).
What could cause all of this. Alternator I had the alternator replaced two weeks ago (apparently it was broken). I changed 3 alternators in this car. Valve Gasket, Valve Gasket(they were retarded and didn't listen to what i told them) and broken.
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I'm having starter issues with my santa fe. After changing the battery and doing some trouble-shooting I narrowed my problem down to one of the relays in the engine compartment.
Almost every morning when I go to start my car the dash lights are dead and the engine wont turn over. I smack a bit on the relays it will start up and until today keep running for the rest of the day.
Tonight it stalled on me in traffic and I got to experience the enjoyment of smacking my relays on the highway. I am thinking either moisture or a faulty relay with intermittent signals might be the culprit.
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This has happened twice now and on the second time I hadn't started the engine and noticed that the lights had not gone out. I switched off and on again and the lights went out.
Only thing in common is the outside temperature was around 4dgs City.
Jumped in this morning, started the engine,* got out to clear the windows of dew, on getting back in I noticed the following lights on the dashboard,
- Traction control light on -stable
- Abs light on -stable
- Glowplug light - flashing
I immediately turned off the engine, waited a couple of seconds, restarted the engine and all the lights extinguished as they should. I then went on my merry way without further incident. Should I be concerned and get it checked or see if it happens again? It has now....
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I started the car this morning, plugged the phone charger into the lighter socket, noticed the charger light wasn't on, pressed the charger in tighter, the car started to run funny, then it cut off. Lights work, radio won't work, all fuses are alright upon several visual inspections. Car wants to turn over but won't start. I tried disconnecting the negative battery cable to see if the car would revert back to "normal". I have never had a problem with this car in the two years I've had it; the battery was purchased brand new in November of 2011. I unplugged the cigarette lighter to see if that would work but nothing so far. Could it be the ignition switch?!
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The last month or so, I have noticed that my dash board lights (red lights) and my actual interior lights that come on when you open the doors to vehicle will flicker sometimes...And it can get bad I guess and annoying. It's more of it pulsating really. I noticed today while driving home and I had the radio on loud it was doing it and I do not know if was just in my head that it was doing it more when the radio was loud or what, but this is ridiculous.
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Ok so first the battery light came on then all the other lights on the dash came on, ended up dying and we replaced the battery but the abs, esc break light and battery light still are on the dashboard. Also I can use the shift release to drive the car but other then that it is stuck in park. I was reading that the car has a atm but I don't know where its located.
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the flickering stopped after 10 mins and hasnt come back. is this an alternator problem or loose battery cables/ground strap?
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I have a 2003 Camry V6 LE.
Yesterday the headlights did not turn off automatically when the car was locked up after being driven for about 30 minutes. Unfortunately, this was not detected until about 8 hours later.
The door locks would not function with the remote and the doors were manually unlocked.
When I got in the car and tried to start the car the dash and dome lights began blinking/flickering, the CD player ejected the CD, and the security light was blinking as it would if the doors were still locked.
The battery was too low to start the car so I jumped the car to start it and got home.
Battery showed 12.7 volts cold the next morning before the car was started. While running there was about 14.3 volts across the battery terminals which would seem to say the charging system is OK. Battery is just under 3 years old.
Doing some testing, I found that the headlights would turn on with the multifunction switch without the car running. In this case they would not turn off through locking the doors even after double clicking the lock button on the remote. The only way to turn them off in this case was through the multifunction switch.
Other testing shows that if the lights were turned on with the car running, they would turn off automatically within about 30 seconds or so when the car was shut off and the doors locked. In another similar test with the engine running and then shut down I also tried the double click lock using the remote and this also turned the lights off immediately.
Based on research on TN site, one recommendation for a similar, but not identical, problem was to replace the multifunction switch. No one suggests replacing the headlight relay or any of the 4 DRL relays.
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At 130,000 I replaced the transmission. Now, randomly the car has flickering lights on the dash while I am driving. The radio flickers, and the tach/speedometers drop to zero. After this happens and I turn off the car, the car will not restart. It is completely dead. If I wait 2.5 minutes, there is much clicking in the dash, then everything comes back to life. No one can figure it out. I will add that in the 9 years I've owned this thing, I have replaced 5-6 batteries. The transmission guy says something is pulling on the battery, but he nor Honda can figure out what it is.
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This week my oil light came on, really was flickering on and off. I parked it and called the dealer, towed it just in case.
Dealer tested the oil pressure cold and hot, all is good. So they think it is the oil pressure switch, which they said was very unusual with a new vehicle (11,000km). They opened an inquiry with Hyundai, but they have not got back to the dealer yet. So they have ordered a new switch, but to replace it they said they have to remove some manifolds and stuff to get at it, so they have ordered all the caskets etc....
It only seem to flicker when at operating temperature. I really don't like to see them pull manifolds etc... on a new engine, but I need to be sure I can rely on the indicator. Right now the dealer said I have no problems driving the vehicle till the parts come in.
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I went to get in car today, and the driver screen, needles, and dash lighting was flicking or pulsing.. like a wave rolling through the lcd. its got 1k miles on it, jsw tdi.
i did open the trunk, without unlocking from fob, just trunk button, then it auto locked again when i shut it. have never done that before, so maybe this causes it? i let it sit awhile, and all back to normal.
on a side note, got my 20% tint on all around today and looking good need a drop then wheels.
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I will start out with a little history of the situation. A little over three months ago my original altenator died with over 200,000 miles on it. I took it in and had it replaced (they used a refurbished altenator) and about a 1-1/2 months later is when the issue started. The headlights and dash lights will flicker and whenever they dim, the volt gauge will go down.
When the lights come back to normal brightness the volt guage will also go back to normal. All this will go on for random lengths of time as I am driving. I took the vehicle back to where I had the altenator replaced and they replaced it again under warranty. About another 1-1/2 months went by and the same thing started happening. I took it back to the same garage and this time they put in a brand new altenator. Finally about a week after this last visit to the garage the symptoms came back.
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Just going home from work and the oil light started flickering on and off, so decided to get to my local garage straight away, i pulled away from a junction and the engine started to clatter getting louder as i pulled up at the garage where it stands now.
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Ford Focus 2004 manual 150K miles. Most days the car runs fine. Other days it will start and run until it warms up, then stumbles or hesitates at speed. When this happens the headlights and dash lights are also flickering. Sometimes i hear a clicking sound behind dash, left side. I have the sure cure: turn the heater fan to high. This works every time. When the engine is hesitating, i turn the fan to 4-high, the engine smooths out. Turn the fan down, engine again hesitates. Hesitates at 3, worse at 2, worst at 1. It seems to need the extra load.
But after few minutes of high heater fan, the alternator light comes on. I flick the heater switch down, endure the hesitation for a few seconds, the alternator light goes out, engine still hesitating, flick the fan to high, engine smooths out. A few months ago i could get it to fun smoothly with the fan on 3, didn't need 4-high. Now seems to need 4.On the days when it is always running smoothly, the heater fan can be on any speed, the alternator light does not come on.
Next few days or even weeks the engine will run smoothly, no hesitation, with the fan on or off or any setting.
The car has been to three shops in past year, one of them a major Ford dealer, who kept it two weeks. The problem has been diagnosed as battery (replaced), Battery connections (checked), plugs (replaced), fuel pump controller (replaced), fuel pump (replaced - ouch!), alternator (replaced twice - ouch twice), grounds (checked). Every time they "fix" something the car runs ok for a week or so.OBD shows P2004 (intake manifold runner stuck) but all agree it can't be the problem.
There have been a few times when i flicked the heater fan to high that all the dash lights died, fan went off, headlights off, turn signals didnt' work, but the engine ran smoothly. Not so good on the highway at night!There have been a few time, not recently, when the car wouldn't start. No dome lights, no dash lights with key turned to ON, no clicking or starter with key turned to START. It acted as if my battery was missing. The cure was to turn the headlights on. All normal after that.
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05 Santa Fe GLS 2.7L, auto, 2WD, 161K miles. Just bought it a couple weeks ago. Not much info about repair history, other than it appears to be well maintained inside and out.
Engine makes two kinds of noise - rattly top end noise and a low frequency thud-thud-thud.
I have shared some MP3 files on my Google Drive, but the forum blocks links for new users.
Apart from the noises, the engine starts and runs flawlessly, seems to have plenty of power (for a 2.7L, ha), and cruises at freeway speeds no problem. No tailpipe smoke or steam, whether cold or hot. Have searched the forums for this but nothing matches exactly.
I don't drive it much because I work from home, basically just around the corner to the grocery store and back. Haven't pulled the valve or timing covers yet, waiting to hear from all you Hyundai experts out there. Top end noise is one thing, but the thud really has me concerned.
Top end noise sounds like lifters not injectors - but I'm not sure I can really tell the difference, there's a lot of "sewing machine noise" going on. On cold start, it's not very noticeable, but becomes more pronounced as the the engine warms up. At operating temp it settles into a consistent rattle at idle. Seems to diminish slightly with higher RPMs, which also suggests worn/sticky lifters.
Oil looks clean and fresh. Haven't tried the Hyundai oil filter, but IMO this level of noise is well beyond the simple lifter ticking that others in the forums have described and reported cured by using the OEM filter.
I used the "long screwdriver with handle in my ear" trick to listen at various points on the heads and valve covers. At idle, it sounds like 2 or 3 lifters on the front bank that are making most of the noise, but maybe a couple on the rear bank as well, hard to get the screwdriver tip back there. Is there a particular spot where lifters can be heard best, distinct from everything else?
The low frequency thud-thud-thud is most audible when letting the throttle close after opening it up to about 2000 rpm. It can also be strongly felt through the throttle mechanism when operating it by hand. Still audible at higher RPMs, but not nearly as distinct, more of a subdued throbbing. Noise is coming from around the rear bank, about half way down the firewall. I fear it is number 3 rod, but is there anything else that would make this sound? I don't think it's a motor mount because there's no noise when putting it into gear, driving, or shifting. How can I tell for sure whether it's a rod? If it is a rod, can it be replaced without pulling the motor?
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So today, I started my Lexus Ls600hl and the lights were flickering and the car wont start. Then on the Dash it has the yellow ! icon and the lcd says Parking brake not available.... The car wont start. I tried disconnecting the battery etc. nothing. Then i jumped the battery and got it to turn on, but it says parking brake not available - see dealer for information. But the car runs fine and everything now - But i don't understand the warning, the parking brake wont engage anymore. I will take it to the dealer tomorrow to see what's wrong.
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As appear on the attached video , sometimes the ESP off and ABS lights again at Engine start , and after the switch on checkup. Is that normal , or indicate upcoming issue?
[URL] .....
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I have a bizarre issue, once the car is running about 20 minutes, the seat belt icon on dash and passenger seat belt light (unoccupied) start flashing. Then the flashing become more like a flickering with a noise. At this time all power windows become sticky and operate under the same bop if you will as the seatbelt light. The doors the will not lock and the alarm will not work. Today it took me about 6 minutes just to close one window and i had to lock the car manually. After a few hours with the car being off, everything works fine again, then another 20 minutes of driving the issue reappears.
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I've had my '07 Volvo S40 2.4i for almost a year. It has a little over 60K miles on it and is serviced regularly. Within the last 3 months, I've noticed some weird things happening occasionally:
-Trouble starting when cold (I understand this is pretty common with a lot of cars.)
-Headlights & interior lights flickering
-Going over "bumps" in road causing dash display lights to illuminate for a second, radio to shut off, and loud system "BEEP" comes through the speakers (this has happened 3 times total, all on the same day.)
-AC stops cooling periodically I've had the system scanned for the AC issue and it seems that there was a "Pump pressure" message that cleared itself at one point and am guessing the same thing has happened the next few times it's done this.
I also asked that the battery be checked to see if it needed to be replaced soon. The mechanic said the battery was fine and thinks it's something wrong with the entire electrical system.
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Our 2010 Santa Fe SE V6 just developed a problem where when we turned the key, the car wouldn't start, and there was a loud clicking sound during start attempt. Battery tested 100% OK.
This often points to a starter problem, but a telling symptom was than the headlights would dim, almost going out, along with the dash lights and most any other lamp. If it was just the starter, unless dead short, this associated dimming would not happen. I also put a volt meter on the battery and watched battery voltage during cranking attempt, and the voltage showed minimal drop, so once again the battery was not the problem.
Traced the problem to the ground strap from the battery which terminates to the driver side front wheel well. Two bolts hold the strap to the wheel well, and they are oxide coated and the contact point on the wheel well is painted. This means all the current returning to the battery is essentially passing through the bolt threads and cap where the oxide has been scratched enough to be conductive.
I sanded underside of the bolt heads to remove oxide, sanded the ground strap itself which seemed to have some sort of clear coating, and sanded the paint away from the wheel well where the strap makes contact. I didn't have star washers, but if I did they would have been a good addition.
Car now starts with no problem.
I am concerned with the possibility of corrosion under the strap where I sanded away the paint, but will monitor this. I think the contact between the strap and fender wall is tight enough with the two screws to seal out moisture and oxygen.
I am also going to locate and check any other chassis to engine ground straps so I don't have any new problems in the future.
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Last Thrusday, my wife couldn't start my Sonata 2010 with 30,350 miles on it. It just clicked and sounded like a dead battery. She had to get a jump start through Hyundai road side service.
I change the battery yesterday (it only had 225 cranking amps) and immediately strange things started happening: lights flickering, engine surging, hard starting, not starting just clicking, gauge lights blink strangely at startup and when switching off ignition, not remembering odometer settings (I set my odo for MPG).
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