My 07 3.3 is running fine and than just stalls. No rhyme or reason to it. After sitting it will start right up and run maybe a few seconds or miles or not at all. Cranks great bust sometimes just won't run.
Does this sound like a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. How is it checked?
2000 F150 4.6L Romeo 2WD. Engine cranks great. Fuel pump working. Changed fuel filter. Will not start. No codes. Fixed A/C day before yesterday, only had air coming out defroster, disintegrated vacuum hose at firewall. Ran errands yesterday, no problems whatsoever. Get in truck today to go to work and no start at all, engine turns over fine. What next?
View 7 RepliesI have a '99 F250, 7.3, CCSB with just over 127K on the clock. I went out of town for 10 days and was ready to get out of the grocery getter and into my truck. I hop in and it cranks great but would not start. I pop the hood and start with the easy stuff. Made sure all plugs/connections were good, check. Relays and fuses are still in good order (under hood and dash), check. Fuel pump was replaced less than a month ago (works great) with fuel in fuel bowl (new filter), check. Try to start a few more times with no luck, so I tinkered around for few more minutes and it starts right up and drives perfect.
Drive around, truck is on and off as usual throughout the day and go back to work next day around 10:30. Truck starts as normal. Get to work and have to run out but truck doesn't start again. After key is in on position for 15-20 minutes while checking fuses and such it starts up and runs perfect. I drive around for 20 minutes and return. I got off about 5 hours later and it doesn't start. Leave key in on position while I'm explaining issues to a buddy again 15-20 while key is on it starts right up. I drive home and park and I haven't been able to start it since.
From reading forums and watching you tube I'm leaning towards IPV or CPS but no one has described the problem as I've had. I do not have monitors, tuner, or anything aftermarket but I'm a mechanic and have a descent set of tools at home.
My 04 f150 has been sitting upwards in my drive way for a month now won't start cranks great with full power..
View 1 RepliesWhile driving my 99 F350 7.3 it died and I was lucky enough to coast home. No WTS light, no tach movement when cranking, no fuel pump, no CEL, Cranks great but no smoke or fire. New CPS & PCM still no lights or tach. Moved relays checked all fuses. WTF is wrong?
View 14 RepliesWife called me this evening saying she's stuck at work. She was parked in a parking garage on the 3rd level, she started the car up, coming down the ramps of the garage and on the first floor at a stop sign, the vehicle stalled out on her. She went to restart it, but it will not turn over. I come out and tried to start it with no luck. I did notice on the positive side of the battery terminal there was a lot of corrosive discharge. I cleaned that all up, but still no luck. Everything has power, bright interior lights and headlights okay. I originally thought it was just cold or lean... But still won't kick over.
View 11 RepliesHaving an issue with my 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L. When the engine is cold, been sitting for a few hours not when the temp outside is cold, it takes about 5 to 8 cranks before the engine will fire. I can then shut it off immediately and start it again and it will fire right up.
I currently have the P0464, P0463 and P2068 check engine error codes for the fuel level sensor units. I don't really know if these are directly related as I've had them for about 6 months and the starting issue has just shown up the last month or so. Plus, I would assume these should only be related to sending fuel level information to the fuel gauge. Either way, I'm still leaning toward a fuel delivery issue since it only has a hard time starting when the car has been sitting for a few hours. I don't know if maybe it's the fuel pump or a electrical component. If it's the fuel pump, I'd like to do that when I take care of the sending units so I don't have to go back in. I've tried turning the car to the 'on" position for about 10 seconds without starting it to see if I could get the pump to load the line, if that's the issue, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
The battery is good. It tested 12.5v after sitting over night.
I have a 2001 Hyundai Sante Fe that died on me while driving down my street. The engine sounded like it was loading up for about 1-2 seconds, then it died. It turns over but does not fire.
After a little troubleshooting, I have no spark in cylinders 1 and 4. I swapped the two coils thinking that I had a bad coil, but then the suspected bad coil created spark on the 2-3 cylinder side. So both coils work.
I towed the car to the shop and the mechanic after about 2 hours of billed labor, he is leaning toward a bad ecu. He said there also is no fuel metering from two of the fuel injectors. He checked the resistance on the injectors and said they are fine. He is thinking it is a control/command issue. The car has many other unrelated problems and I am not sure I want to spend too much more money on it.
I am skeptical about a bad ecu. Or sensors that may be causing my two cylinder no spark and alleged fuel problem?
I have a 2006 Santa Fe with the 3.5l, AWD, 5 speed auto, and 65,000 miles. Its a daily drive. Out of the blue it won't start. It cranks, but it won't start. The battery is strong and it has 1/2 tank of gas. I figured my code reader would solve the mystery, but it's doesn't produce any error codes. With no codes I don't even know where to begin.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4 L. Front wheel drive. Cranks over won't start, replaced crankshaft sensor & camshaft sensor, no spark. Where do I go from here?
View 1 RepliesHere is what happened. Pulled into gas station and car just died. Tried to restart and no fire. Cranks but no fire. Flat bed trip home and started to diagnose. Thought it was a bad fuel pump so I pulled and tested with a direct power and functions fine. Checked all fuses and relays, all seemed fine. checked for power at pump and nothing. Reset cut off switch and still nothing. Thought maybe ECM relay in the under hood fuse box was bad I borrowed the one out of a friends car. Nothing. Thinking ECM was bad put theirs in my car and got power to pump. So I put their car back together thinking mine was the ECM, then theirs won't start. The ECM relay i took from there car and put in mine blew when i tried to start my car. Got another ECM for my car and put in. Still no power at the pump. Here is the info about the car. 2001 Santa fe 2.4L auto. 80,000 miles. Timing belt, tensioner and all Idler wheels changed along with water pump at 71,000 miles. This car has been very reliable up till this point. No check engine light came on at any time..
View 8 Replies2004 2.4L Sante Fe Base model. Car stalled out the other night, engine cranks but wont turn over. I have it towed to mechanic who tells me that the ECU is fried and they cant get any diagnostic done, that only a hyundai service can do this. I have it towed to service. Service tells me that they cant get a diagnostic done without a working ECU and that for the ECU alone. Then they could figure out what was going on with the car. The service also told me that the ECU isn't something that you can just go get at a scrapyard because it is specific to the VIN on my car. It just didn't sound right to me but I might be wrong.
View 7 RepliesMy Santa Fe quit running one day as I was driving. The fuel pump hums when I turn the key to on. The spark plugs look ok. One coil is not getting a spark. We replaced that coil and it still isn't sparking. The timing belt appears to be fine. I bought an OBD II reader, and it gave me the code for the camshaft position sensor. We replaced that today, but there is still no spark. I cleared the code and tried to start the car. There are no codes present so I am assuming I fixed the camshaft sensor issue. Next up on the list is to replace the wiring leading up to the ignition coil. I gave it a quick look over. It appears to be ok, but I might replace it anyway. The outer housing is cracked a little, but the car is 13 years old so I expect that. Before it died there was an awful sound coming from the engine. It sounded like a piston was rubbing/scraping. I am throwing that out there just in case it is related to my electrical issues. I have noticed other weird electrical issues as well. The middle brake light usually works, but sometimes it doesn't work and sometimes only part of it works.
View 4 RepliesHit a pole hole blew out passenger front tire, rim gone, car went dead , car cranks over will not start, what my be wrong. no under carriage damage...
View 4 RepliesMy wife's 07 Camry cranks then immediately dies. I tried to crank it again and it want even start at all.
View 14 RepliesMy Accent recently died in traffic. All of the electronic components seem to be working. The engine cranks but does not turn over. I removed the spark plugs and they were soaked in gasoline and the plugs on the 1st and 2nd cylinder had a black residue. I dried them off and tried to start the car again, no luck. The spark plugs were soaked in gas.
Over the summer (5 months ago) 2 ignition coils fouled out and I replaced them along with all of the spark plugs.
2007 6.0 my dash lights will flicker when the key is turned on and the truck wil crank but won't start, but when the lights stop flickering truck starts .. How to fix the flickering dash light?
View 2 Replies2007 Ranger 4.0.... Initial start of the day it cranks a bit longer than it should. After warm, it starts fine.
View 1 Replies2000 5.4L Expedition.
I've noticed when air temps are over 90 degrees, my AC performance while idling isn't the greatest. But moving on the highway at 50+ mph, it seems to cool quite well.
The fan clutch has some resistance while spinning by hand (checked today after parked for 3 hours) but it's not significant. No play in/out of the fan blades.
After coming back from lunch, I parked it, left it running with the AC on and checked the fan. It was running but wasn't "loud". Coolant temp was showing 204 at the time (ultragauge reading). Shut the engine off and checked the fan rotation again- felt just the same as prior to lunch on a "cold" engine.
Unknown mileage on the fan clutch. 194,000 miles on the Expedition.
I'm thinking the fan clutch isn't strong enough to pull air in through the radiator while sitting still- but 50+ mph on the highway shoves plenty of air through it. What do you think?
Also, water pump? Should I change it at the same time? Sometimes the fan will sound very loud. But only on occasional cold starts. The noise goes away after ~60 seconds. Never hear the fan any other time than that.
Lately it seems that my 6.0 cranks over longer before it starts. it used to turn over quick and start not it turns over at least 5-8 seconds maybe more. .
View 7 Replies2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
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