Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Cover For The Shift Lock Release Is Gone
Oct 3, 2015
While driving today I noticed that something didn't look right in the gearbox of my santa fe. It turns out that the cover for the shift lock release is gone. I have no clue what happened and for some reason its bugging me so I need to get one.
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2010 Elantra. The other day I noticed that while driving with cruise control on, on the way home from work, pressing the brake pedal didn't turn the cruise control off. I felt the brake work, but the engine started revving like I was holding down the accelerator so I took my foot off and manually turned the cruise control off with the On/Off button. I didn't think much of it at the time other than it hadn't done that previously. Then, when I got home I couldn't put the car in park. The shifter wouldn't move past Neutral up to the Reverse or Park position. Using the shift-lock release push button I was able to put it in park. I'm not sure if the two issues presented here are related, but they both occurred for the first time on the same day. I was hoping it was a random occurrence and it would be better today, but things haven't changed. The brake and accelerator have continued to work just as before and the car feels no different driving it.
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I can't get the key out off the ignition with out playing around with the shifter button and brake pedal, an error talking about a steering column lock shows up some times.
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So with about 70,000 km on my 3.3 V6 I'm noticing some oil seepage from the valve cover gasket. It's not enough to budge the oil level on the dipstick, and frankly not the sort of thing I would bother having fixed (especially with a leased vehicle). The only thing bugging me is that the alternator is getting pretty grimy and dirty from it, and I'm wondering how much it can take.
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Had 2 valve cover gaskets fixed 2 times on this car. Now I have a timing cover gasket gone. This is real big $$$. Dealer quoted a price of 1400.00 . Contacted Hyundai of America and trying to get some " good will" . It's the 3.3 V6. I know this engine seems to have these problems . This car has 127,000 miles.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited with 82000 miles. I have replaced four (4) batteries since it was purchased, new, in March, 2010. I have repeatedly taken it to the Hyundai dealerships in Las Vegas, Nevada and Centennial, Colorado, for an oil leak on the valve cover over the alternator. At no time has the service technicians at the dealerships ever told me there was problem. Last Thursday, the latest new battery, installed that same day, failed. I had my independent garage technician assess the multiple battery failures, with the associated battery display light illumination, related to the location of the continual oil leak. He stated that the cause of the battery failures was from the oil damaging the alternator. I contacted Hyundai Customer Service, today, and was told that there have no reported problems from oil leakage onto the alternator, with subsequent damage to it, and/or the battery.
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My 2007 3.3l SF timing chain cover is leaking.It has 93,000Kms and is still covered by warranty.The Dealer said it was a 17hr break down job to do.
I am wondering if there are things I should get done/replaced when they open the engine up. I had asked at the dealer if there were other parts that should be replaced at this time, but was told that there was not.
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Just took in my 2011 Santa Fe Limited for its 22,500 mile service (oil change). I was informed that it had an "oil leak under the front cover," and it needs to be fixed before it ruins the alternator. I will have to drop it off again for a whole day to have it fixed under warranty. The service rep also told me that this was not uncommon.
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I have a 2011 Limited and I wanted to mention that I brought it in for the ECM service campaign and to have an oil leak looked at. The reflashing went as expected, I am still trying to decide if the car behaves any different. It seems like the engine RPM drops a little bit when slowing down then bounces back up. Nowhere near enough to stall or anything.
While I had it in the shop, I had them look at an oil leak that I have been having. According to the dealer, it is leaking from the timing chain cover. They have ordered some parts and I will be taking it in for the fix next week. I don't have a full list of which parts they will be replacing, but he did mention removing the valve covers and installing a new oil pressure switch while they were in there.
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My 2010 Santa Fe is leaking oil. I bought it in April & it has under 8,000 miles. After parking the car, I see oil spots that range in size from a Silver Dollar to a CD after a few hours.
First, the dealer said it was a cracked oil filter cap, so they replaced that...I brought it home and it was still leaking.
Brought it back to the dealer, and now they are saying the Timing Chain Cover Seal is leaking.
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I have a new dog which I need to leave in the car occasionally (not when it is sunny etc). Is it possible to lock the santa fe 2010 without the sensors activated so the dog doesn't set the alarm off when moving around in the boot. I just tried locking the car using the key but it didn't do anything but I can unlock with the key!
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe and recently both rear doors don't respond to the car remote and even to the driver-side control panel on the door. The only way now to lock and unlock the rear doors is to manually do it from the inside. Both front doors are fine. What could be the problem with the rear doors? Is it just a fuse? Or do I need to open the door panel and have a look inside? If I do need to open the door panel, looking for instructions on how to open it.
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I have this problem with both the key fobs provided with my 2007 UK spec. Santa Fe 2.2crdi: The fob works only intermittently to lock/unlock the doors. I have replaced the CR2032 batteries, and the red light on the fob works as well. Is there a sensor that needs cleaning/adjusting?
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My driver door lock will not work with either of my key fobs. or with the switch on the inside. it has to be manually locked/unlocked or the key used in the door..
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I have an 8 month old vehicle that will not lock the driver side door lock (using the power lock, fob and/or when you take the vehicle out of park). The issue seems to go away, but returns usually right after I get it back from the dealership. On a side note all of the other door locks activate and deactivate fine.
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe. I had to take it in for service in April because the shift lock was not acting correctly. Since I have gotten it back, it will not honk when I press the remote button twice. It did before the service was performed. The lights flash properly and the doors are locked, but I still want it to honk sometimes. Is there something that was turned off that I can turn back on?
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I just bought a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3ltr with auto trans and all wheel drive. When I purchased it the speedometer did not work. I bought the VSS gear and installed it and now my transmission does not shift properly. Also I had it to the dealership for an ECU update and they said that their computer could not connect to the ECU.
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When I am driving and I start to slows down to a store my head lights dim when my transmission shift down (A/T). At first it didn't bother me but now since I have noticed it, it is annoying. Although the dimming in not super dangerous but I am worried there might be a bigger issue.
2009 Automatic Santa Fe
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I started noticing that when I shift the car into reverse to back out of the driveway, the car door locks sound like they are trying to lock/unlock repeatedly for a couple of seconds. I know the car automatically locks the door when I shift out of park, but the multiple retries is a new behavior. All doors do lock. I do have the child locks enabled for the rear doors and that hasn't changed in 3-4 years. I also disabled them and the retries persist.
I have also noticed that around the same time (past month?) I must push the unlock button on the keyless entry remote twice to unlock all the doors--including the driver side door. In the past I only had to push the button once to just unlock the driver's door and the side lamps would flash, but one push doesn't do anything anymore. I've never changed the battery in the remote, but does the car care that the remote battery may be running low to exhibit this behavior? It's a 2010 SF with 52K miles.
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Just noticed that when I lock the doors with the remote or when the doors auto lock when putting the car in gear, the right rear door does not lock. upon watching the process, it appears the the actual lock itself does not move all the way to the locked position. However, if you lock it twice in a row, it locks. it would appear that something is blocking it to close all the way, like say gum or some other type of sticky substance but I could not find any.
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At first we would use the remote and sometimes the lock would not lock the drivers side door but the rest of the car would. Normally if I tried a second time it would catch and lock.
Now I need to flip the lock switch myself when getting out of the car. I can unlock the car with the remote but there has been the odd time that it will not unlock via the remote and I've had to go around to the passenger side and reach over to unlock the drivers side door.
If I hold the lock and try to unlock or lock the car it is very weak compared to doing the same with all the others doors.
From looking around if sounds like it could be the actuator?
If this is the case how easy is this to replace on my own? I've been trying to see if there's a video anywhere but no luck finding one.
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