Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Constant Squeaking Sound In Driver Side Window / Door Frame
Jun 2, 2011
I bought my 2011 Santa Fe about 6 weeks ago and only have just over 1000km on the odometer. I have an appointment next week to have the dealer look at my car because I hear a lot of noises. First, I hear a constant squeaking sound in the driver's side window/door frame. I think I have this figured out - it's the weather stripping/seal on the door - perhaps the door isn't fitting tightly. I'm not too worried about that sound. I'm also hearing a rattling sound in the rear end, usually when I go over bumps. It sounds like something underneath the car is loose and is banging every time I hit a bump. It's not a loud rattling noise, but enough to be noticed for sure. Also, I've heard a rattling noise on the front passenger's side door somewhere but I can't seem to pinpoint where exactly. Again, it's like something is loose and rattles when I hit a bump. Should I be concerned? I'm a bit nervous because the last car I bought turned out to be a complete lemon and I bought the Santa Fe to rid myself of worry - I haven't been successful with that so far. I have gone through the interior to make sure nothing's loose and rolling around and making the noises, I've repositioned all the seat belt tensioners etc - nothing makes these noises go away.
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I heard a squeak sound from my driver door when drive on the uneven road...
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When I roll up or down the driver side glass, it sometimes gives squeaking sound. Checked with one Garage; said there is no quick fix for this.
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Would be very interested in any fixes known for an annoying, recurring drivers side window/upper door frame rattle in my 2008 ES 350, occurs when going over bumps, uneven roads, or sometimes with just normal driving. Intermittent, but very common. Have had dealer address this and they replaced the "glass run" on that side, but rattle returned within a few days. Will try some silicon spray to dampen it, but seems like there is some flaw when the window is full up to door frame that produces this ticking rattle- can eliminate it by lowering the window an inch so that it does not insert into door frame.
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Just spent 12 hrs in our new 09 SF Ltd listening to a squeak/tick/click coming from driver's side A pillar area, front door jamb, or side window. I suspect - but am nowhere near sure - it's the windshield moving against gasket or molding. Had a similar issue in the Mazda3 I traded.
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Due to the rain this weekend I decided to clean out my interior and do some maintenance. Lately my driver-side door has been making a squeaking sound. As such, I decided to lube up all the doors just in case. Upon inspecting all the doors/hinges I found that both the driver-side rear door and passenger-side rear door hinge bolts are rusted real bad. These are the bolts that connect the hinge to the door rather than the hinge to the door frame.
I inspected the door for any sign of water intrusion, but could not see anything out of ordinary. Also, nothing else was rusted or appeared to be water damaged. I inspected all the other hinge bolts around the car for comparison and they were fine. It is strange that both rear passenger doors have this issue. I bought the vehicle used and the Carfax comes back clean with no accidents or damage reported.
The only other time I have seen this is when the door has been worked on, and a socket was used which stripped the protective paint off the bolt. Even then only the rough edges of the bolt rusted, and not the entire thing. While I could foresee one door being worked on, I do find it strange that both would have needed work. However, this assumption does not rule out the possibility.
My only other issue of concern which may play into this is the surprising amount of sand I find on the exterior. As good as one can clean a car there are always some places that will never get fully clean. With that said, while the exterior is clean I have found sand residue in little crevices (weep holes) and corners throughout. I am sure that sand and moisture would play a part in causing rust to accumulate, except that no other parts show any sign of rust. This is certainly bizarre to me. I plan on replacing the bolts, but would like to remedy the problem before hand if possible.
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What caused this. The attached pictures show what looks like melted plastic on the window frame to the right side rear passenger door. I noticed the damage after running errands one morning. What might have caused this? Any thing electrical inside the car or external?
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This morning I was sadly involved in an accident. I was struck on the driver's door, with some damage to the surrounding areas. There is also damage to the inner door frame
I am worried the affected area is part of the frame and will prove difficult or impossible to repair. Is this the case? How would this sort of damage be repaired?
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The driver side window goes up/down faster than the passenger one. I believe it has always been like that. Do you think that is a feature? Why is that? Could that be a defect?
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe, and I don't really know what the exact term for it is, but the plasticy/rubbery coating on on the window sill inside the cabin is rubbing off from what I assume to be my elbow sitting on it (seems strange).
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2011 Santa Fe limited fwd
Bought as 6 month old demo in 2011 and from day one rear driver side power window has gone up and down slower than other three windows. Going up decidedly worse. My fault for not having it looked at while still under warranty.
Behavior the same using either driver's switch or the rear switch.
Well, now it occasionally gets stuck in down position. Neither switch works. But, if I press switch and pull up on window I can eventually get it to close.
I looked at other posts and saw no clear solution for this intermittent problem.
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My driver door lock will not work with either of my key fobs. or with the switch on the inside. it has to be manually locked/unlocked or the key used in the door..
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I have an 8 month old vehicle that will not lock the driver side door lock (using the power lock, fob and/or when you take the vehicle out of park). The issue seems to go away, but returns usually right after I get it back from the dealership. On a side note all of the other door locks activate and deactivate fine.
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Driver side rear door will not open by key, key fob or internal handle, 2007 model. Also is there an Haynes manual for this model....
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At first we would use the remote and sometimes the lock would not lock the drivers side door but the rest of the car would. Normally if I tried a second time it would catch and lock.
Now I need to flip the lock switch myself when getting out of the car. I can unlock the car with the remote but there has been the odd time that it will not unlock via the remote and I've had to go around to the passenger side and reach over to unlock the drivers side door.
If I hold the lock and try to unlock or lock the car it is very weak compared to doing the same with all the others doors.
From looking around if sounds like it could be the actuator?
If this is the case how easy is this to replace on my own? I've been trying to see if there's a video anywhere but no luck finding one.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe. The drivers door handle has stopped working. I can open the door with the inside handle. The locking mechanism is fine. I took the interior panel off and found there is a middle metal panel, which stopped me from getting to the exterior door handle mechanism to see what is wrong. I can't find any information on how to correctly remove the middle panel. I remove the bolts but am not sure how to deal with the two cables from the inside handle to the lock and if there is anything else needed to release the middle panel.
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I was standing still on a red light this evening i noticed that not all of my driver's side door switches have illumination, is this normal? Take a look at the picture.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe, mileage is under 50000.
The remote Door lock, does not lock or unlock drivers door. But locks/unlocks all the other door.
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Having issue with an occasional whistling noise. Mine seems to happen once I get to 80km/hr(50mph) or above. Seems to be coming from the drivers side area around the side mirror or windshield frame. Being winter the windows and sunroof have been closed and it doesn't seem to be consistent so it's hard to figure out what could be causing it.
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I'm still shopping around trying to find the right ES. I test drove a very clean 2008 today save for 2 things. The interior smelled a little stale. Can't figure out if it was cleaning solvents that were used or if it's a cleaning product mixed with light smoker smell. That was the only thing I noticed initially until I got in for a quick test drive and closed the drivers door.
When I closed the drivers door it had a hollow gong-like sound, like if you hit a big empty metal barrel. A 'bung' sound. I haven't noticed this on other ES's I've checked out. You can kind of pick out the noise on the passenger door on this car, but it's very muted. The passenger door sounds like it's supposed to sound. It sounds solid, more 'chunk'. You could pick out the slight 'bung' if you were listening for it, but normally, all you hear is 'chunk'. But, there's no missing it in the drivers door. There's no rattle in the door or the car in general. Initially, I thought maybe the speaker was loose, but nothing is moving in the door, it just 'bungs' when you close it. Maybe it's out of alignment? It looked straight.
Is there sound proofing in the door that could be missing or loose from a repair?
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A couple of months back my driver side window began to make this terrible squeaking noise when rolled up and down. I noticed that the noise is not as bad when it is cooler out and when I run my car through the wash with wax (just an option they have at the carwash place).After some internet research I believe that the problem is with a part of window regulator mechanism.
There were a couple of options available to me:1. Replace window regulator mechanism (great instructions on pelicanparts.com). To do it on my own is about $80 (part cost) and 5-6 hours of work or $600 at the dealer's. 2. Locate the motor of window regulator, open it and clean it. Probably 5-6 hours of work, but $0!!!3. Open the door, clean inside and grease the tracks.
I opened the door and cleaned the glass and tracks – no result! I brought it back to the dealer (car is not under warranty anymore) and they were nice enough to open it again for me and grease the tracks – no result except for marks on my window and the verdict that I need to replace the regulator mechanism….
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