Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Code C1209 - Faulty Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
Oct 20, 2016
My mother in laws 2012 Santa Fe had a number of dash lights on (ABS, hill decent, stability control). I put my scanner on it and came up with fault code C1209 which showed up as a faulty right rear wheel speed sensor. I have replaced this module and then cleared the codes.
However, the dash lights still light up and the vehicle continues to throw the same code. I don't work on Hyundai's very often so I am at a bit of a loss.
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My 2003 Santa Fe 3.5 is in limp mode, you can't change the gears and showing signs of faulty tps sensor, but my mechanic is telling me to change whole electronic throttle system , May be its only the sensor.
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My Santa Fe indicated P0715 for input speed sensor problem. I purchased both sensors and based on forum input I removed the air box and battery to access senors. Output speed sensor is easy to see and access. I am having a problem locating the input sensor. I see wires going to a sensor under both the main wiring harness and shift cable. Is that the location of the input sensor? If so how do you move the wiring harness and shift cable to allow access? If not, where is the input speed sensor located? The Santa Fe is 2001 V6 2.7L.
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How can I locate a faulty wheel sensor with VAG? Should I replace one sensor or all 4?
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Still having problems with my 2.4l 2002 santa fe. At stand still the MAF readings are within range. At 2000rpm it reads 9.3 gm/s. the info I have says it should be between 7.89-9.83.
When driving along at 50mph, 5th gear, engine speed 2000rpm it reads approx. 25.0 gm/s. at 3000rpm it reads 48 gm/s. Is the MAF sensor faulty?
It is now not running very well with fault codes P0171(fuel system to lean) That code comes up whilst driving at speed. I also get P0172(fuel system to rich). I got that one whilst driving slowly in a car park.
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Where the vehicle speed sensor is located on the 2007 es350. Reomoved battery and air filter box but just can't find it.
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My first Prius, an 05 has 249K and performs pretty much flawlessly. My second, an 04 which I purchased in May, has 75K. While driving the 04 yesterday, all the lights came on the dash and really scared me. I immediately pulled off the road and checked belt, fluids and anything else I could. I then called the dealer and they thought since the car was running normal, to bring it in. For a hundred dollars I was told the HV battery, though working and not a problem, would have to be replaced due to a faulty "battery temp sensor" and that this part is not repairable....I need a new battery! Code POA9B ... Tomorrow I am taking the rear panel out and check the HV battery fan, etc. Can I drive the car with these lights on? Everything seems to work but the CC.
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2012 Hyundai Accent. I am getting a po326 code. Wondering if it may be a faulty knock sensor. And po463 fuel level sensor code when I fill up with gas.
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I need to replace O2 Sensor which is Bank 2 Sensor 2 which needs to be replaced.
Where is this located on a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3L
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I took my 2011 Santa Fe, 3.5 liter, in for the tail light water thing, and a cracked fitting down near the thermostat (all warranty). I bought a rad flush while they were in there.
I picked up the car, drove for 1/2 hour and got a CEL. Plugged in my code reader and got three PO198's, oil temperature sensor. The dealer was closed by then, so I left it in their lot and will call them tomorrow. Their repair performance to date has been poor, and that's being polite. How a rad flush could cause a PO198? Could they have forgot to plug the sensor in? Is it located anywhere near the thermostat housing? Did they not get the air out of the rad, and maybe the engine did get hot?
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I've got a 2006 F350 5.4L.
The ABS light came on and it was throwing a 'rear speed sensor' code. I searched around and it seemed to be a common issue that the sensor goes bad and needs to be replaced.
I bought a sensor and replaced it, but in doing so, I saw that while the sensor was indeed bad (cracked) the wire right at the connector was corroded.
I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on the dash. Is it possible that they code simply needs to be cleared? I was able to read it with my OBD2 dongle and Dash Command App, but maybe I'm not able to clear it?
Or is it more likely that the corroded wire on the connector is the issue? (it wasn't fully corroded and I cleaned it up and sealed it.). It didn't look like I could pull the wires out of the connector, so I assume I'll need a new connector. What is the part number?
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I have a 2006 VW Jetta with 92K miles and just a couple of days ago my check engine late came on and when i took to an auto store to check the code, it came as P0332, Knock sensor 2 in bank 2 is faulty. Three things have happened all around the same time and I am not sure if they are related and are just coincidence.1.Check engine light came on.2. I have noticed after that, my car RPM has dropped, idles at about 600-700RPM and when trying to accelerate, it tops at 3000 RPM and feels like the motor cuts off at that point and I have to step off the gas and the car runs ok again, but cant go over 3000.
Had trouble getting on the interstate due to this and thought the car was going to stall, but it didn't. just had to back off the gas and let it run, It did go up to the speed that I wanted, but seems like it wont go past the 3000 RPM point.3. My fuel gauge, drops to empty when it reaches the half way mark on the meter. It stays at the correct level when I start and keep the car in idle, but when I start moving, it drops to empty. When I fill up the tank, it goes all the way to F, and after the car goes the usually of about 190-210 miles, when It reaches the half full level, the meter drops to zero, so have been using my trip odometer to drive after that.
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So I had a post up saying "is MIL P1444 a urgent fix" and I got "no". On an other website though it said that it was an urgent fix. They said it was "similar to running a bad catalytic converter. You don't want to do it."
P1444:
Possible causes
- Faulty Purge Flow Sensor
- Purge Flow Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Purge Flow Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
So I located the purge flow sensor and look at the tube that connects to that,the canp solenoid, and the carbon canister. Nothing looks bad, but I did notice that the tube that connects to the carbon canister to the solenoid is not connected. The part that connects to the carbon canister dry rotted off. So I turned on my car to see if anything was coming out of that tube or air and there was nothing (not sure if that's good or bad). Also a week ago when I filled up my gas tank (before the check engine light was on) a lot of fumes were coming out of the tank while pumping.
The scanner i use also lists the secondary air system, the EVAP system, Heated catalyst, and the AC refrigenant has red X's, but they weren't continuous.
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I'm getting error P0125 on my 2001 Echo, which points to possibly a faulty ECT sensor.
Where is this sensor located? Seems like under the air box? Is replacing this part as annoying as it looks? And, are there any other possible causes for code P0125?
In case it's related, I will mention that code P0171 (mixture too lean, I believe) is present as well, and the car does hesitate upon initial acceleration when standing still. Once it's moving, it works fine.
Maybe it's time to start thinking about replacing this car... it has 216,000 miles...
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I had this item of concern as a response to another thread but I thought I'd open up a new thread and see if I could get any more attention.
I bought a used GLS and upon initial drives I have noticed a high speed vibration that seems to come from the rear (I don't feel any in the steering). In the colder weather recently I've noticed a pronounced vibration at a lower speed (just before shift points). between 2nd and 3rd. This seems to be worse with short drives or in morning.
Vibration seems to be worse just after a tighter right turns or even some left turns. I notice the most vibration right around 25mph. I also get it with moderate acceleration into a certain torque range. Like driving at 45 and accelerating up to 60. What is going on? It seems like it is linked to acceleration (torque) and possible pressure from turns. CV joint / axle? Wheel bearing? It seems like a tire would be worse as speed increased and more consistent.
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2007 Santa Fe about 90k miles - Automatic transmission ... Before suggesting stuck caliper / emergency brake hear me out:
Last year, I am driving around and my passenger side rear wheel is getting hot. Infrared thermometer shows up to 600 degF on the rotor after about 30 minute ride.
Took the wheel off, and I could not move it. Upon recommendation, I bought a new caliper, took the wheel off, took the old caliper off, but the wheel would still not move with the brakes off. I never installed the new caliper knowing it is not what is holding wheel.
Took it to the shop. They took off the rotor, found a groove inside, so said the e-brake shoe is getting stuck. I paid for the new rotor, took it from the shop and the problem was still there. Wheel getting hot. Took it back, and they suggested to buy e-brake hardware. I did, and reinstalled the e-brake assembly myself. The wheel was still getting hot, but only after I used the e-brake. So I took the wheel apart, released the brake an it seemed to 'fix' the problem. So I decided to not use the e-brake at all. Winter went by, I accidentally used the e-brake couple times, but it did not seem to make the wheel hot. So far so good.
Now is June and about 2 weeks ago I started to sense the wheel getting hot again. Now, this time this may have nothing to do with the previous time, but who knows. The temperatures are again up to 600 degF when driving about 45 mph for about 20 minutes.
I took the jacked up the car and tried to spin the wheel and the wheel spins freely. What the heck. I asked my daughter to apply brakes. The wheel can't be moved. When the brakes are released the wheel spins freely. No friction at all. Both inner and outer pads are thinner on this wheel then the opposite wheel, as all of them were replaced 6 months ago. So definitely higher friction. But why. Caliper nicely moved and releases. I took it off and tried it and it worked fine. Brakes nicely engage and release the rotor during the test when car was jacked up. I bought infrared camera to find source of heat, which is proving to be the pads. See pics below.
So what is going on? Why would the wheel free spin and jacked up showing no friction. Why would the brake nicely release the rotor when car jacked up but then cause big friction when car is running?
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Need to identify what could this be? It used to come and go, now it's constantly here. I took it to the dealer but there was a 3 hour waiting time, so I might have to go another time. If you do know what is it, could I fix it myself? While driving there's no squeaking, but I can hear a metal on metal sound while on bad roads, the type of noise you would expect from a bad tie rod or something like that, on good roads it's fine. The noise you can hear on the video happens when I push the car side to side. [URL] .....
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I have been noticing some kind of a oil/water mix wet spot on the floor every where i park. It looks like some thing is leaking near rear passenger wheel, close to struts. I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe SE with 19K miles....
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First time towing a twin axle caravan with the Santa fe. towed 250 miles without any problems but on the final long uphill stretch the esp light came on. When the engine is stopped and re-started it goes out but comes back on within a mile. Also when the caravan is plugged into the electrical socket the indicators flash at normal speed but unplug it and they flash very quickly. I have read a lot on the foot brake switch being a problem and sometimes it causes the esp light to come on.
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Since I got my car back from the dealership after changing the rear shock this summer, I can feel a vibration in the car at highway speed. After the shock were replaced the car steering wheel was out of balance and pulling one side. After they attempt to align the car about 5 times it got a little bit better. Then I found out that they had an accident with my car and tried to hide it: [URL] ....
I suspect the tie rod may have been damaged so that could explain the steering issue. It also seems to have gotten worse over time. I'm trying to figure out the possible cause, if directly related to the tie rod damage or indirectly as if the tie rod damage could have caused uneven tire wear and then causing the vibration over time. I've attached some pictures, the 2 first are from the front passenger side, the 2 last from the front driver side. My tire are the Michelin pilot and this thread seems to suggest those tire might be hard to align properly: [URL] ....
I'm due for my winter tire change soon and see if thing gets better, I'll get them balanced too. I'll check at the same time for control arms/shock damage. But still, I would like some feedback and see if those tread wear are normal and hopefully get to the root of the problem (the outer edge on the tire in the back are much less damaged).
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I have 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe......approx 10K miles......no major issues to date
Drove my son to school this morning and pulled into a parking spot.....the shifter would not move into PARK......it was stuck....would only go into NEUTRAL and DRIVE....the vehicle was idling
I was a little panicked, but put on the parking brake and called the dealership on the cell.....they told me to pop the cover on the switch near the shifter and and depress the reset button (needed a flat head screw driver).......it took about four tries and then finally worked.....
I shut the vehicle off, restarted it and tried to put the car into REVERSE...to back out of the parking spot......shifter was stuck again.....had to depress the reset button......
Immediately took the car to the dealership where it was DIAGNOSED with a faulty "stop lamp switch".......causing the shifter to stick and the brake lights not to work... this was a recall item for the 2007 Santa Fe, but not the 2008 (that I'm aware of)
Dealership replaced the stop lamp switch and had me in and out in a hour.......but they did not initially give me a write up......i told them this was a very dangerous situation that had just occurred and I wanted a write up.....they happily complied....
So keep a flat head screw driver (glove compartment) in the car and have your dealership take a look at the stop lamp switch, on your next visit, even though it was only recalled on the 2007.......I will also be contacting HYUNDAI directly...
ETA: ESC light was illuminated when I was trying to get the vehicle into PARK from DRIVE......also contacted HYUNDAI and gave them a description of the incident and now have a case number.
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