Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Car Idles Low At A Light Right About 500 Rpm
Dec 18, 2013
I'm having issues with my 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe. I have the 2.4L engine and having some issues with the vehicle. The car idles low at a light right about 500 rpm. The rpms drop when you place it when gear. The car jerks and bucks while driving. The feels like its stumbling when you slow down. I do have a custom exhaust, just the muffler. What would cause the car to act this way? The dealer could not duplicate the problem.
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I have really taken care of this 2011 SF Limited with the 3.5 V6 but it has always seemed to idle rough at a red light/stop sign while in drive. Is this common for all the 3.5 V6 engines? I run a fuel cleaner through it before every syn oil change and also use top tier gas. It drives nice but like I said, at a stop in drive it seems to run rough at around 500-550 rpm's.
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This all started out when I wanted to change my original plugs that had 200k miles on them. I have that part done now and new wires. Then it wouldn't start without me starting it while holding the gas pedal down. Then I would have to press the pedal down or it would die.
I may need to clean the throttle body. I bought some Valvoline Throttle Body Cleaner and cleaned the throttle body it was black inside and now it's nice and clean. After that the car starts up fine except on the first try. It starts up and idles at around 2,000 rpms. When I press the brake it drops to 1,000, then back up to 2,000. The strangest part is I have no acceleration power now. I can press the pedal to the floor and it will only go to 3,000 rpms. It will slowly get faster as I drive but there's no immediate response when I press the pedal down.
Why would cleaning the throttle body do this? It throws a code when I first start it and it dies the P1110 code but I think that is because the rpms are at 600 when it catches it. No misfire codes or anything, so I think the plugs and wires are working. Just the faster than normal idle now and no power when I press the pedal down.
Would the throttle body cleaner hurt the throttle position sensor?
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I replaced a dead battery in my '05 3.5 v6 Santa Fe. Other than the dead battery the car was running fine. After replacing battery, at idle, the RPMs drop below 500 and then go back up to over 1000 and then drops back down to 500-600. It has almost stalled a few times. At the low RPMs it diesels a little. When the RPMs spike the car surges and if I wasn't heavy on the brake, I'm sure I would have rear-ended the car in front of me. No check engine, no codes. Is this normal? I replaced the battery about 4 years ago and don't recall this behavior. If not normal, what is going on and where do I look? Its my wife's car and don't feel safe letting her drive it until this gets resolved.
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This week my oil light came on, really was flickering on and off. I parked it and called the dealer, towed it just in case.
Dealer tested the oil pressure cold and hot, all is good. So they think it is the oil pressure switch, which they said was very unusual with a new vehicle (11,000km). They opened an inquiry with Hyundai, but they have not got back to the dealer yet. So they have ordered a new switch, but to replace it they said they have to remove some manifolds and stuff to get at it, so they have ordered all the caskets etc....
It only seem to flicker when at operating temperature. I really don't like to see them pull manifolds etc... on a new engine, but I need to be sure I can rely on the indicator. Right now the dealer said I have no problems driving the vehicle till the parts come in.
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The car had its first service last month but since then the ESP light has come on permanently on three separate occasions and has to be reset by turning the ignition off. Suppose I will have to book it back in -I read elsewhere it could be cause by wheel alignment or faulty connection somewhere?
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I have an 02 Santa Fe with the 2.7, 4x4. This started a few weeks ago. When it is first started, it cranks over for a few then starts, idles 1500-2000 rpm. It is a little hesitant at first, but will eventually run fine. If I go to the store after it is warmed up, shut it off, then go back to start it again after shopping, it does the cranking over for a few, and when it starts, you can smell gas (strong smell). when you go to take off, it hesitates real bad, backfire rumble through the exhaust, has no power, bucks, and you have to feather the throttle to keep it running. If you put your foot to the floor, it does nothing, 20 mph if your lucky. if you can keep it running long enough without it stalling, which it has done, and hit the highway, and get going, it will eventually work itself out and run ok again. There is NO CEL. It is getting worse.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L 4WD. It's been running rough on occasion for quite a while now, but it's only been an occasional thing. I replaced the front passenger side axle and went for a test drive and the vehicle was barely running. I put the throttle to the floor and it does nothing more than idle. I barely made it home and am afraid to pull it out of the drive. I started it up this morning and it seemed to be idling just fine. I pushed the brake to put it in gear and it started stumbling. When I put it in gear, same thing, pedal not doing hardly anything.
The check engine light did come on and I had a buddy bring down a scanner to check it. I don't know if these are Hyundai specific codes or not, but here's what he pulled: P1110, P2127, P1173, and P1192. I'm thinking throttle position sensor, but am unsure. I've put a lot of time and money into this vehicle lately. I've spent some money and a lot of time trying to figure out why it was showing abs and traction control lights. Turned out to be the exciter ring on the axle was broke.
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What are the steps involved in replacing my fog light bulbs? One burned out. And what's the correct bulb replacement number?
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So we've had this issue randomly of course so I don't know that bringing it in will do us any good. The anti slip light will stay on while driving (after starup), or come on at some point. This has only been an issue once when it came on pulling into our driveway and I could not park the car or go in reverse. I had to shut the car off in neutral and restart it.
2010 2.4L AWD
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Why my empty gas tank light would come on after I just filled up my tank? I filled up and left the gas station with the gauge showing a full tank. I drove home and parked. An hour later I left the house and the gauge showed empty with the empty tank light on.
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Vehicle: 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD ... Oil light coming on when braking hard.
Anyway, my problem was my oil light coming on at idle. Initially, it happened to my wife and she called me about it, and I attributed it to the cold weather and thick oil maybe not pumping properly when the vehicle was cold. After driving it myself, I realized this only seems to happen AFTER the vehicle has warmed up to operating temps. Took it to the dealership, they told me it was a bad oil pressure switch, put in a new one and off I went. (Note: oil was also changed at the dealership when they put in the new oil pressure switch)
Here I am two days later with the same problem. Just about to work this morning and sure enough, the oil light came on again while stopped at a stoplight.
Attached a picture below of my dash...the light flickers and comes on when the idle drops. I've never taken notice before, but what is the actual idle speed of the 3.5L? When the light is on, mine is about 500 rpm...
Also, for those of you with a keen eye, note the distance travelled (238 kms) on my current tank of fuel. Cold weather + all short trips within city limits does not make for a happy Santa Fe.
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2011 Santa Fe with 3.5L V6 and AWD, 38000 Kms:
Very recent work (last month or so) - new battery (old one had a bad cell), brake light switch and for a repair of the seat adjustment bar (not sure what it is called). The most recent oil change was done by me in November and I have only put about 1600 kms on it since. I put 5W20 Castrol Syntec and a made in Korea WIX filter. I fill the oil to just a hair below the top dot on the dip stick. I torque everything properly.
OIL LIGHT PROBLEM:
When I was driving home from work this evening, I had to brake a little harder than I normally would when I was turning into the back lane (about 8 houses from my house). I thought I saw the oil light come on, but I wasn't sure. I continued down the lane when someone walked out in front of me and I had to brake again. This time, the oil light did come on for sure and then went off when I took the brakes off. It was -20 C outside, so I continued to my house which was now 4 homes away. I braked to go into my (heated!) garage and the light came on again as soon as I touched the brakes.
I decided to let the car sit for an hour to get an accurate reading on the dip stick. I checked it and the level read exactly where I had filled it - just a touch below the top dot. I took the oil filter out to check that it was still seated properly and was not obviously clogged. It looked just fine. No signs of any leaks in the engine compartment or under the vehicle. I decided to take the car out again to go around the block - maybe not a great idea. The light didn't come on again when I braked until the vehicle had warmed up again.
What could the problem be?
I guess I need to take it in, but I start work at 7 AM and my wife is on maternity leave and she needs a car tomorrow. So, this means me taking the Yaris is out. She can't take the Santa Fe to the dealer with my infant son and so I guess I have to get it towed. This is bullshit. This POS has been in the shop several times since November.
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I have a 2007 santa fe, the oem interior light does not work. I looked in the fuse box but there is no fuse for that light. Will buying a different interior light work and does there need to be a door jam switch in order for it to work. I have looked at other vehicles from that make model and year. They all have a unit that has a "door" button on that device.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS. The washer fluid light came on and I filled the reservoir with a complete jug of washer fluid. When I went to use the wipers no fluid came out of the front sprayers but the back one worked until it was completely empty in a matter minutes. When I stepped out of the car, there was a big puddle fluid on my side of the car. What this most likely is. I know there are a couple different scenarios from the reservoir being cracked to the pump. But just thought it was weird that the back sprayer was working before the tank was empty and front wasn't working at all.
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I have swapped my stock radio for an anew head unit. After doing this i got now the airbag light permanent on. (It doesn t blink). Normally this light should be off while driving.
I don't want to go to the dealer to reset it. I already did the basic stuff like checking the airbag fuses and disconnect the negative battery connector for a while. No difference.
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The wife and I took her Santa Fe to our local dealer yesterday afternoon for an oil service. I take them a Mobil 1 5 quart jug of 5w20, and they supply the factory filter.
At any rate, today while she was running errands today the battery light comes on. As I suspected, the alternator is not charging. The battery is good and strong, but I do not know if it will run the car for the 25 mile drive back to the dealer.
I also see that the alternator is directly below the oil snout where the tech would have put the new oil back in yesterday. I am wondering if he drenched it in oil, and thus the reason for the light.
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So today I was playing around with a Honda civic from light to light with my 2012 v6 AWD Santa fe. After lighting the tires up on the first light I decided to hit the AWD lock switch.
Second stop light was great, my suv launched and before I knew it I was doing 100km/h. Only problem is my AWD light stayed on and didn't disengage? Is this normal?... I could be wrong but I think my check engine light flashed but I'm not 100% on that.
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Just going home from work and the oil light started flickering on and off, so decided to get to my local garage straight away, i pulled away from a junction and the engine started to clatter getting louder as i pulled up at the garage where it stands now.
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Have a 2012 Santa Fe, I originally bought brand new off the lot and now Ive noticed moisture in the brake light. Is something of this nature typically covered under warranty?
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Just like the title says out of the blue the esc light will come on and it sounds like the front brakes are grinding. This only happens once in a while but more often as of late. Grinding noise does not occur until after the light comes on. Sometimes the light will stay on for a minute and then go out and everything is fine. Other times we need to shut the car off and on for the light to go out. Grinding noise only occurs one time in all instances.
We just had a brake job done 3 months ago so I am at a loss as to the problem. This is an 07 FWD Sante Fe.
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