I have a 2007, V-6, 2.7 that idles fine. When placed in gear, it sputters, slow to accelerate and bogs down like it's losing cylinders. I've changed the throttle body, and accelerator already.
View 8 RepliesQuestion about my 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe SE. The car has 25,000 miles on it, and just recently like in the last 1,000 miles I have notice when I use the AC, or even the air without the AC the engine reacts very poorly like it is under extremely heavy load. The car shakes and vibrates.
I completely understand that in AC mode, the compressor kicks in, but this to me seems excessive. The car vibrates and the idle drops substantially. AC on is worse that no AC.
In addition, idle or under 35 is worse that HWY driving. The vibration is so pronounced that I sometimes wont turn the AC or air on as the vehicle feels like it is going to rip itself apart.
This is something new and never vibrated this much before the 25,000 miles. Anything I should look into or have the Hyundai Dealer look into? What I may be over looking? Would more stout battery work?
We have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD LTD with about 140, 000km on it. It recently came back from front suspension work. The suspension is fine now, but we notice harder shifts in the transmission. Also, there seems to be a vibration just before shifting gears and when under load (like going up hill) seems to slip (like on ice) about once every second until the shift is made. Once the shift is made it drive smoothly until put under pressure again. Even stepping down a bit on the accelerator will cause this slipping feeling (or maybe its loss of power). Just had new plugs put in and a tuneup so it's not that. Could something from the suspension work cause these symptoms?
View 29 RepliesWe have had had our Santa Fe for a year, done 38000 km and love it. The car will start up and drive around town fine but as soon as the engine is under load at highway speeds or driving up a hill it loses all power.
In Automatic when this happens the gear will drop back to third. You can switch it over to manual mode and slowly accelerate back up to around 80-90km/hour with your foot flat to the floor but the rpm don't get above around 2000 to 3000.
If you stop and turn the engine off for a minute or so, when you start again everything will appear to back to normal but after another minute or two the problem will be back. The engine malfunction light comes on and sometime it's flashing but at other times it's constant.
The car's been in at our local Hyundai dealer for a week but at this stage they still can't quite figure out the exact cause of the problem. The code they pulled out suggested it was the exhaust particulate filter (apparently quite an expensive part) so they replaced that but it didn't fix it. They've also replaced the fuel filter and some temperature sensors that are part of the particulate filter apparently but still no joy.
Those are the codes I'm getting. P0340, P1166 and P1167
Here's the story. Engine running flat under load. Easy acceleration is ok, but merging onto the turnpike causes a noticeable loss of power. Replaced the cam sensor, cleared the codes, ran ok for a day. Same codes came back, same flat performance.
Returned the cam sensor with another new one to make sure it wasn't a dud out of the box. Advance Auto Parts is awesome - replaced it no questions asked.
Installed the new cam sensor, cleared the codes. Ran great for a day, then the same symptoms came back, with the same codes. I'm thinking it might be the ECU? If it is, how expensive are they? And do they have to be programmed by the dealer?
This is a 2002 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic with around 147k miles on it.
Video : [URL] .....
My 07 Camry V6 (2GR-FE) tensioner pulley is vibrating under load (in D or R). It gets worse with AC on. I checked all 3 pulleys, all have good bearings, and no play. The belt is in good condition, no cracks at all, still looks new. It's got 75,000 miles
Ok, my father has an LS460L with the Mark Levinson system.
When you press the load button, nothing happens. When you press and hold the button for a couple seconds, there is a beep, but the gate in the CD slot never drops down and the CD changer will not accept a CD.
Is there some other trick to this, or is his CD player broken?
I just bought a 2007 LS460 with 90K miles on the clock. It replaces my 2006 LS430, which I loved, but it was getting long in the tooth.
So far, I have fixed the wind noise issue on the pass. side and the only remaining issue is this clicking in the driver rear wheel when the forward or reverse load is first applied.
So, to explain, every time I come to a stop or go from forward to reverse, I hear one or two clicks once I apply the gas. It sounds like some metal part is settling in place. The sound is not there once under way and there is no other noise at all.
The shop I went to spent couple of hours looking for the cause, listening with mechanics stethoscopes, feeling by hand, while the car was in the air with the wheel off and came up with either a rear hub or rear axle on its way out. It is hard to pinpoint the exact source because the click or metal ping is transferred to all the metal components of the assembly and there are plenty of them there.
I did some Autocross today and it was fun as always, but my launches had some serious issues. I seem to bog down no matter what RPM I launch at. I did not go particularly high, but I launched from 3500 to 4500. When drag racing, I was launching around 5000. I did not think that was correct for launching for autocross, but who knows. I know that the video is not that great, but the boging is very noticeable as the car jerks up and down. It just loses momentum and RPMs drop. BTW, I have a VF Stg II, stock clutch and ESP was off. Even with the issues, my best time was near the top. [URL].................
View 21 RepliesThe 2.8 V6 car sometimes hesitates when trying to accelerate. It even has what feel like 'misses' at idle. No codes except catalytic convertor below efficency bank 2. I suspect it could be a bad o2. I looked at vag com, 311-2 and found...
Group 32, Sen1 bank 1 oxygen sensor adpt.@idle 0.0%
Sen1 bank 1 oxygen sensor adpt.@par 0.8%
Sen1 bank 2 oxygen sensor adpt.@idle 0.8%
Sen1 bank 2 oxygen sensor adpt.@par 0.8%
Group 42 bank 2 50Kohm 0.10Kohm inner rest. Sensor 2
Group 41 bank 1 60Kohm 0.50Kohm inner rest. Sensor 2
What measuring blocks should I be looking at? Weird that the car is 'bogging' or 'hesitating' without a misfire being reported.
My brother has an 03 GA GT. The car recently started bogging down on acceleration. It tops out at about 25 mph, and full throttle causes the car to stall. He was throwing a code for the egr valve, and replaced that. Then he threw a code for maf sensor, swapped it and no change. We've also changed the MAP, TPS, IAC, O2, Coolant Temp sensor; so far, no luck. I don't know much about these cars?
View 3 RepliesExperiencing hesitation/misfiring/bogging down sensation under light to moderate acceleration. Manual transmission, and sometimes feels like bucking by a novice stick-shift driver. Starts fine, idles fine when cold or hot. Will accelerate fine when cold, but only for a few minutes or less than a mile until it's warmed up enough. Have checked and tested many ignition and carburetor related items until narrowing it down to EGR system, which is only operating once warmed up, and not at idle, so that part of the system is working OK. If I disconnect vacuum hose from EGR valve, runs fine with no hesitation, but pings or knocks badly (as expected). Symptoms all point to too much EGR flow. With no computer or codes to check.
Have tested both EGR valve and EGR Vacuum Modulator, and both seem fine. EGR valve hold vacuum. Found and cleaned some carbon build-up, and pintle stem doesn't seem to stick. Vacuum modulator tested by blowing air into Q port while blocking P & R and air passes thru small bleed off hole. Filter had small dark burnt looking spot at bleed off hole - don't know if that's normal or not. Also tested modulator by simultaneously apply pressure to bottom port (to simulate exhaust pressure) while applying pressure to Q port, with P & R still blocked. Bleed off hole slowly stopped flowing air as pressure built up. About to roll the dice and replace modulator (less expensive of the two). Without trying to add more confusion, have wondered if a clogged cat convertor would cause enough increase in exhaust pressure to make modulator send too high a vacuum signal to valve. While the truck is old, it only has 50k miles, and no real modifications.
Today I changed my intake manifold gaskets n I hooked everything back n now its bogging out n popping as it's idling, I put new spark plugs but it still the same. What the problem might be?
View 2 Replies1993 Plymouth Voyager LE 3.3 V6 Automatic. Bogging down when entering an incline, keeps running in idle, will bog down, if dropped in low it will take off, sometimes backfires. Runs very good when on level ground. What can it be, mechanics suggest fuel pump, transmission, had it checked out by my mechanic and the fuel pump is fine, doesn't seem to be the transmission either.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 gli and there r no lights an no codes but when I am driving the car shakes a little almost if the motor was bogging down a little. its nothing to major just a slight back and forth movement. I cant seem to figure out the problem it seems to go away during acceleration. Also one other thing is it seems to do it worse when its warmer!
View 1 RepliesMy car is stored outside rather than in a garage in winter. I do notice bogging or "gargled" acceleration maybe 4/10 on occasional days and sometimes the engine light will come once this happens and then other times it doesn't come on when it occurs. Engine light usually comes on rarely but when it does, it's when the bogging is really bad.
Question is what would be the most cost effective way to solve or find out what the issue is? And/ or, what would you think the underlying issue would be for starters? Also, does my year car have a MAF sensor? BTW the cabin filter and air filter were just changed a few months ago but unsure if this would include the shop cleaning the MAF if I do in fact have one.
I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0 and I was accelerating on the interstate the other day and the car just started bogging down and now the car only accelerates slowly at partial throttle any more and it makes a loud intake noise and bogs down also the car idles bad and even at partial throttle the car struggles to get above 3k rpm, I scan for codes and got MAF, O2 sensor before the cat and camshaft position sensor, I replaced the camshaft position sensor and car still runs like crap, what is the problem??
View 4 RepliesWhenever I completely engage the clutch after shifting into 5th, there car bogs for a second if I give immediate throttle after shifting. It doesn't happen if I wait a second or when driving in fifth gear.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1997 Olds Bravada with 170K miles. Engine was running fantastic up until three weeks ago. Suddenly engine is "bogging" down and transmission is shifting between gears at certain speeds (like it can't decide---usually around 40mph). Replaced catalytic converter because mechanic said it was plugging. Now engine seems even worse---it feels like it is working really hard, like the brakes are stuck on or like it is pulling a really heavy load. Gas mileage is worse. Trans is still not shifting right...at 40 and 50 mph it can't "decide" what gear to be in and switches back and forth, and at higher speeds it has slight hesitations, like it's "missing" or not getting fuel for a split second. Mechanic said it needs a tune up.
Background: Replaced transmission one year ago with remanufactured trans (could all-wheel drive be stuck "on"?). Replaced catalytic converter. Also just had A/C recharged and began using it about one week before these troubles began. I have stopped using the A/C in case it was related, but the problems have continued.
I have a 1993 F150, 302 with E4OD, I've replaced most everything I can think of to address the engine bogging in reverse (TPS, EGR, VSS, replaced the trans filter, tune-up and MLPS). It does not bog every time and seems to do it more when the engine is warm.
I pulled the ECU and opened it up. There was nothing obvious inside that looked burned, damaged, etc. Since it is almost 20 years old and the truck has 197K miles, should I go ahead and replace the ECU as well??
I've got a 1994 F-150 with the 4.9 straight six. The transmission is the E40D.
In drive, it shifts silky smooth. In reverse, it acts like it's bogging down the engine.
I only recently got the truck. It's had a fluid and filter change, and is full on the stick when hot.
I didn't notice this problem until I replaced the engine thermostat. It was stuck open, so I replaced it with a 195 degree Stant unit.
Should I let the engine control computer re-learn this engine? I've fixed bad vacuum lines, too.
I've heard tales about the electronic transmissions. This one has 145K on it.