Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Battery Warning Light Staying On
May 3, 2016
The alternator on my wifes '07 Santa Fe (2.2 CRDI) broke down when one of the internal diodes gave up last week. The battery warning light came on when she was driving to work. Since then the Alternator has been rebuilt and refitted, and the battery fully charged. The car now runs fine and the Alternator is putting out around 14.6v so charging the battery OK. The only problem is the warning light is still on. How to get it to turn off ?
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A couple of times this winter my 2007 Santa Fe with a 3.3 engine acted like it didn't want to start. I thought battery! However, it stopped doing that, and I kept driving it.
On the way home from work, I noticed the ESC Off light showing, so I pushed the button and it stayed lit. Then I noticed the battery warning light lit. Made it home and pulled into the garage. Turned off the engine and tried to start, no go.
I have changed two batteries this year in my two other Hyundai's, so I just pulled it and got a new one. Installed the new one, started the engine, and the battery warning light is still lit. Must be the alternator.
I have 68k on the vehicle, so I counted myself lucky that the battery lasted that long. I guess I am due for a new alternator too.
What are the chances that it is just the regulator? Can I safely drive to and from work then to the dealership. Round trip is 30 miles.
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I purchased a 2008 Santa Fe this summer.
Since then, the ESC OFF light turns on a couple of minutes after turning on the engine and stays on. This occurs all of the time.
Occasionally, the radio will freeze up and I can't change the channel, adjust the volume or turn it off. It will work again if I turn off the engine and restart.
Two days ago, the horn stopped working. Is it possible that these are related problems?
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Before i made a post about not working MIL indicator light on dash. The thing is that i spend all the water from the windshield washer and the low fluid level warning indicator light never came on dash. So the 2 issues are related.
Is there a connector or something that i can check for myself?I check the led that operates this two indicators light on dash and it's seem to be working perfect. (I change positions one for other in the same dash).
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This is regarding a 2007 santa fe.
Today I noticed my airbag warning light came on and stayed on driving to the store. At the store, I locked the doors with the remote, but when trying to set the alarm (second click of the remote) it would not arm (no lights/horn). About 30 seconds later, the alarm then sounded on its own. Had to hit "unlock" on the remote. 30 sec later, the door locks by itself (as it should) but then again, 30 sec after that, the alarm sounds.
Don't know if the airbag light and alarm issue are related. Sounds like a possible electrical issue. We're bringing it in next week anyways, but if it's something simple that I can look for, it will save my wife a trip and gas.
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Last week a warning light appeared on screen. It flickered on and off for a minute, and I think it was going on more when I was cornering. Then it stayed on and has been on ever since.
I did a search and read the post about the clock spring recall. But it is not a recall in the UK. I'm in the UK where they sold this model from 2006. I guess I'm going to have to take it to the dealer and get them to read the codes.
Is there anything simple I can check myself first, like for a lose connection under the seats of anything like that?
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I have just had my 2007, 2.2 CRTD Santa Fe serviced at the dealers.
When it came out, I drove it home and the drivers side airbag warning light came on. I rang them to which they replied get it back in when you can and we will check it.
When it went back in, the confirmed that it required a new airbag. Not being familiar with airbags, would it really be a replacement of the whole unit?
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The wife and I took her Santa Fe to our local dealer yesterday afternoon for an oil service. I take them a Mobil 1 5 quart jug of 5w20, and they supply the factory filter.
At any rate, today while she was running errands today the battery light comes on. As I suspected, the alternator is not charging. The battery is good and strong, but I do not know if it will run the car for the 25 mile drive back to the dealer.
I also see that the alternator is directly below the oil snout where the tech would have put the new oil back in yesterday. I am wondering if he drenched it in oil, and thus the reason for the light.
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Ok so first the battery light came on then all the other lights on the dash came on, ended up dying and we replaced the battery but the abs, esc break light and battery light still are on the dashboard. Also I can use the shift release to drive the car but other then that it is stuck in park. I was reading that the car has a atm but I don't know where its located.
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On my 2.2 2008 SF the rear door sometimes refuses to unlock randomly. All others are fine. Rear passengers cannot then get out!
Tried taking inner door panel off. very little access and liberal spraying of WD40...............
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I have a bad sensor in a tire that just had a flat. I have ordered the sensor for the wheel and I am wondering after I install the sensor in the tire will the 'reader' pick it up and reset itself or do I need to go through the programming of the new sensor? At this time the TPMS warning light comes on and flashes for a minute or so before staying on constantly. This tells me it's trying to read the tire sensors but there is a fault, which is the tire sensor where I just had the flat. Costco tells me that sensor reads 78psi, which is incorrect. The fact that the reader is trying to read all the sensors and getting an error makes me think that it might reset itself when the new sensor transmitter is put in the tire? Any chance of this resetting itself or will I need to reprogram the receiver unit?
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I just replaced the rear calipers on my wife's Taurus wagon (old ones were siexed) and bled the brakes as normal, but now the brake warning light is on and staying on. At first I thought it was the parking break, but it seems to work fine, (Tried setting the parking break while in motion and the car slowed quickly.) Its the first time I have changed the calipers on a car. When bleeding I did so until there were no more bubbles pulling about 8 oz from each side. The reservoir did get low but I don't think it emptied. Is it possible that I went too far and now have air in the master cylinder? How would I correct this?
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I started having an issue with my battery light coming on and staying on so everyone told me change the alternator. So i did. 4 days later the battery light came back on and now i have it in the shop, alternator check came out good, battery check came out good and starter check came out good.
I haven't had any issues with the car before now, i have made several long trips, bought it brand new and have 69,000 miles on it. I love my car, but I am scared to find out what it's going to cost to fix it.
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About 4 months ago, I had the battery replaced since the car was not starting easily and they said voltage was not good. They also shimmed the ignition coil at the same time. I thought it was a bit early for a new battery but ok.
Last Friday I started getting a flashing battery light on the console but no other issues. Thought I would bring it in Monday.
Sunday I was driving on the highway and all warning lights came on, flashing, console died then came back on with a bunch of warning lights and then the car died. I managed to get off the highway with about 10% power and park in a lot. Car would not start once I turned it off, click, click, click, click like no power etc but rest of power in car seemed fine. Started fine Monday morning and I drove it to the dealership.
The dealership says the code was P2502 (Charging System Voltage). They are going to replace the Battery Sensor first and then if that doesn't work replace the Alternator.
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My 08 Prius developed a hiccup yesterday. While driving down the interstate there was an occasional red flash from the dash. It would come and go so fast that by the time I could actually process it and focus it was gone. I had to stop by the dentist office as I was ready to walk out the door I heard a car in the parking lot with the horn/alarm sounding. I mentioned to the folks in the waiting room that someone alarm was going off. A lady replied that green Prius with the bike rack!
Sure enough it was mine! I was unable to find any causal factor. I left there and at my next stop, the horn/alarm started sounding just as I walked through the entrance door to Home Depot back to the parking lot. This time the Door Ajar/Open light on the dash was lit. I opened and closed all the doors and hatch. The Door Ajar light was still on I then manually manipulated all the door switches and opened/closed/slammed the hatch several times. No Joy I drove home.
About the only thing I was able to find was that it was probably the hatch, the switch is sealed within the locking/latch mechanism and that I could simply just unplug it. So I began troubleshooting.
After removing the rear hatch/floor, plastic bin, etc. I removed the plastic cover from around the latch (above the bumper not on the hatch lid), then removed the longer plastic cover that runs along the same area and provides the cover for the area between the rubber gasket and the inside of the hatch/floor area. Now I was able to see the latch mechanism and associated wiring (looking down toward the spare tire well). I also had the hatch light turned on (left side) which was easier to see than the Door/Ajar light on the dash.
I manually tripped the latch and the light flickered. I pressed down on the latch (hoping to put more pressure on the internal switch)…the light continued to flicker. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the latch, wiring retainers and disconnected the plug. The electrical plug, located about 8†to the left of the latch has 4 wires. The two on the bottom power the electrically operated latch and the two on top go to the Door Ajar switch (the one that is inside the latch assembly).
I noticed a little bit of corrosion and discoloration on one of the male pins (the plug that is connected to the latch end of the wiring). The female plug (connected to the car end of the wiring) also had some discoloration.
I plugged them back together and found that as I moved the wires/plug the light would flicker and change sometimes turning off. I unplugged it and connected my ohm meter (using small jumper wires with clips) to the two top (male) pins on the switch end of the plug. The switch tested fine. I even tested it with my homemade battery powered continuity light (wanting to test the switch under a load). I also wiggled the wires going into the plug itself, Perfect, no problems here! So, I determined the problem was truly with the plug itself. I also jumped the two female connectors with a short piece of wire (simulating the switch) and the light would come on (as it should have). OK, plug problem confirmed!
I cleaned the pins (both male and female), applied some dielectric compound and plugged it up. The light remained off for a few seconds then started flickering again! I could even hear a slight hissing sound coming from the plug (never a good sign). I tried tweaking the male pins (bending them slightly trying for a better connection) No Joy.
I clipped the wires (only the top two) from each end of the plug (red & white/black stripe wires coming from the latch).
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I have a 1999 F-150 4.6L V-8, and the battery light is staying on. Something is draining the battery. I have taken it to Auto Zone, and they tested the battery (brand new), starter, and alternator - all show good. The only error they can register is "C1226 brake light lamp short." What could be causing this? I had to get jump started at a gas station 2 nights ago. I have checked the alternator fuse, and it is ok. Could the wiring be bad somewhere?
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Last night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
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Over the past few days the battery light has been flickering and at times staying on. In using the gauge cluster diagnostics, I am getting 12.4 engine off and 13.8 - 14.0 with the engine running.
Even when I'm driving with the battery warning light on I still get a consistent 13.8 - 14.0 (and I do have the headlights on, the A/C running, radio, etc).
Kind of scratching my head on this issue since it appears the alternator and battery are working correctly.
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I noticed the turn signal light on the passenger side and mirror staying on. Wether it's started or off. Locked or unlocked. Don't know what the issues could be. Front one not on though
At the dealer now. I have 600 miles on it so I'm assuming it will be warranty covered.
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Had a bad alternator, changed it, and now the battery lite stays on all the time..Changed the alternator again with a known good one, and the light is still on all the time..
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Coming home this morning the "Caution you're running on Battery power" warning came on several times. At next start all seemed back to normal.
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