I left the lights on last night in our Santa Fe, and drained the battery.
Took the battery out and up to O'Reilly and they recharged it for me on their charger. When re-installing the battery the car alarm goes off as soon as I attach both battery cables. Turning the key in the ignition doesn't kill the alarm.
How do I reset the alarm and shut it up?
Security alarm not working after replacing front drivers side actuator. Paid a local Mechanic to replace actuator and now the security alarm when you press the door lock twice on the door remote is not arming. When I press the door lock on the remote once, the doors lock. When I press it a second time to enable the alarm and to hear the horn nothing happens at all. Light doesn't flash and horn doesn't sound.
View 5 Replies2012 Santa Fe SE and the battery went completely, utterly dead. Reason unknown but that's not the issue for now. The battery was purchased new.
Also, I had a Viper 4204 remote starter installed after I got the car, April 2014. I use the keyfob that came with the Viper to open the doors and start the car as needed.
Trying to get a jump start but as soon as I connect the cables the alarm goes off and the car won't start. Called the place where I had the remote start put in and he suggested two things. Use the original Hyundai keyfob and press the unlock button to stop the alarm. Or put the key in the ignition turned to the ON position BEFORE connecting the cable to the battery. Tried both, neither worked. Also tried just holding down the kill switch under the hood. But that didn't work either.
Codes indicate bad battery block 10. One of the cells in block 10 had lower voltage than any other cell in the battery. Ordered new cell and replaced it. The 12V battery was never disconnected, but the battery ECU was disconnected to allow it to be moved out of the way for bolt access.
After reassembling the battery with the replaced cell, the no-load voltage of the battery is 215V. The car powers up with the alarm indicators still on (as expected) but putting the car in drive and pressing the accelerator has no effect. I double checked my connections. The HV relays are not being energized. Do the codes need to be reset before the car will move?
I have a metal sounding rattle coming from the back of the vehicle. It sounds like it is coming from the hatch area. I removed all loose things (jack) and the noise is still there.
I checked the license plate and put foam behind it, I wrapped the latch with a layer of tape. The noise seems a bit better but still there when on rough roads.
I have a 2005 SC430 and all of a sudden the alarm is going off. Twice today once at 6am and then at 7.30am. Since then (it's nearly 2.30pm) - nothing.
I've not changed anything inside the car since it went off this morning - and nobody was trying to get into the car. The problem of course is that it autolocks and turns on the alarm.
This has only just recently started happening. Is there anyway just to lock the car and disable the alarm?
I put a new battery in my 2007 LS460 and it lit up all kinds of vsc, brake, abs, pcs, stop the vehicle immediately, etc. A 30 minute freeway trip, then 1 hr turned off has not changed anything.
Background: no warnings before the dead battery, but the rear window would reverse when it got part way. I was monkeying with it, and found the weather seal crimped right there. I left the ignition on by mistake. 8 hours later, the 1 year old battery was dead. I hooked up a good charger and it nearly cranked 20 minutes later with the charger connected so I left it until the charger said it was done and unhooked it. There were no dash lights and my voltmeter read something like 3 volts.
I pulled it out and replaced it, which cranked right up and runs great, but has all these errors. I'm having trouble walking right now, but when I get a chance, I'll check the voltage on the new battery in case the car isn't charging, but I would have expected the two long drives yesterday to kill the battery again if it wasn't. I also have a ScanGaugeE which I may use to read and reset the codes.
So far three times this week the factory alarm went off in the middle of the night. This happened before and the problem just went away. I have pulled the fuse for the horn so I can at least get some sleep.
How to troubleshoot this? Bringing it to the deal will be useless since I can't duplicate the problem.
This is an 08 Santa Fe limited edition.
I just replaced the fuel sensors and know don't have power to the fuel pump. ( checked at the harness). I had to take the canister apart to get the sensor to go in and I had the rubber seal fall off the gas tank pressure sensor the first time I hooked it up. I did find that and put it back on. I checked the fuel pump fuse and switched out the fuel pump relay with the one for the horn and had no luck .
View 2 RepliesI own the above described vehicle; I'm at about 196k and I'm the original owner. It's a quad cab, 2002 7.3L with power everything. I believe it's the XLT package (it's not in front of me... I'm at work. CONFIRMED... XLT package).
Currently, it's the workhorse and back-up for the family, not my primary driver - luckily. I've had failure if the automatic door lock on the rear pass. door, and a sticky lock on the rear driver's side lock - they've both been in this state for at least the last four years, no problems beyond the hassle of manual manipulation of the door lock from the inside - otherwise no electrical issues really to speak of.
Three weeks ago, we went to the snow. I rarely use the 4x4, but found that I had to use it that day to get out of some mud - it worked fine, no issues. In addition, I also used the cruise control... something I do rarely, but have not had any issue with it either.
In exiting the area some hours later at the end of our day, I noted two things... the "door ajar" dash light was illuminated and did not shut off through the drive home, and the dome light remained on until the battery saver shutdown shut it down... quite some time (where normally a key in the column turned past the insertion would shut it off).
When I drove home I used the cruise control, as mentioned, and it worked fine.
In exiting the vehicle while at home, as soon as the door was opened the horn started blaring panic alarm style - honk, honk, honk, honk... - and when the batteries are attached, there is nothing that stops the honking, except the battery saver timeout. BTW... no key in the ignition.
I don't use the FOBs... the batteries were dead anyhow (and I moved the FOBs out of range of the vehicle).
Attempted fixes:
- Lubing the lock/WD-40, then shutting/opening the doors (no luck/no change).
- Pulling door panels, removing locking mechanism, removing door ajar switches (I don't know what they're called), manually manipulating the piston AND checking each with a multimeter. (NOTE: One "seemed" not to work properly, so I purchased one from dealer and placed it back... still, no luck resolving the issues overall).
-Checked the wiring looms supplying all four doors - no broken wires noted.
- Replaced the two vehicle batteries.
I'm at a loss and I'm hitting up this forum before I move forward...
I've read that there are issues with the VSM for this year's model, but I'm hesitant to purchase the module without further feedback from a tech. I've read some general posts about alarm systems (doesn't apply to me) and horn issues (but those were horn constantly blaring... not the intermittent horn blasts of a "panic alarm sounding."
I've heard that the GEM and clockspring could be an issue, but I have to look more closely at the associated problems (like recheck to see if the cruise works... door windows go up/down like some threads have mentioned...). I have also read that the door ajar sensor switches attached to the automatic locks could be culprit, as they may "work" when pulled out, but not work when they're installed in the vehicle.
Ultimately, what the cause to the panic horn beeping, dome light and door ajar instrument indicator being on.
So a couple days ago i replaced the fuel level sensors in my 07 gls 2.7 liter santa fe and all was well for 2 days. I had finally driven it enough that the codes cleared from active status and the car turned off the cel. However, during the same ignition cycle the engine started missing a bit and the cel came back on and started flashing at me. Codes found now are p2187 lean bank one and p2189 lean bank two, plus p0302 misfire detected cyl 2. I've tried the carb cleaner trick looking for a vacuum leak.. but no luck. Air intake boot is good vacuum lines look good etc. What might be going on? Did i get debris in the tank and glog an injector with it? Fuel pump itself appears to be operational. No bogging down or loss of power under heavy acceleration.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2012 Santa Fe and the front map light fixture was where my issue started. I believe from what I read that the diode had gone bad because the map lights would work if the light button was pressed, but not if the door button was pressed. At that point, the only issue I had was the light now working when the door opened. So, I ordered a replacement part and tried to install it today. It was harder to get the old one out than last time, but it came out no worse for wear and I unplugged the old map light fixture. I plugged in the new one and it did not work at all. I checked the wire and it looked fine, the prongs and they were fine and tried it again... nothing.
Now, the back seat dome light and trunk dome light don't work either. (with the new map light plugged in or not) Old one back in and still nothing. Checked the manual for the fuse that is supposed to control those lights and it is fine. I got frustrated because it made no sense and gave up for the night. (no light is even plugged in where the map light goes for now) I come in the house and now every hour or two (when I lock the car) the alarm sounds for no reason. The alarm button won't shut it off either, I have to hit unlock and it stops. (3 times in the last 5 hours now) So, I have decided to leave it unlocked for now. So far, so good. BUT, I need to lock my car when I am out without the alarm sounding and I need my dome lights working. Everything else with / in the car seems to be normal.
I have an issue with a slightly rough sounding engine and some white smoke on start up. It disappears very quickly. I have been told it may be glow plugs or an idle actuator thingy, how do i check which one it is. How can you tell if a glow plug is working or not. I have a 2006 Santa Fe 2.0 with 58000 on the clock.
View 2 RepliesThe wife and I took her Santa Fe to our local dealer yesterday afternoon for an oil service. I take them a Mobil 1 5 quart jug of 5w20, and they supply the factory filter.
At any rate, today while she was running errands today the battery light comes on. As I suspected, the alternator is not charging. The battery is good and strong, but I do not know if it will run the car for the 25 mile drive back to the dealer.
I also see that the alternator is directly below the oil snout where the tech would have put the new oil back in yesterday. I am wondering if he drenched it in oil, and thus the reason for the light.
I wanna know if I can take a regular car battery 500-600 cca to replace the old aux battery.
View 9 RepliesI have Santa fe 2009, I was in a 5 days trip, now I'm back home and it seems like that the car's light was on so the battery is goes dead, now I can not open the car's door neither by remote nor by the key! why I can not open the car door with key?
View 37 RepliesI recently had a new coil pack put in my 2008 Santa Fe, about a week ago. Got up for work this morning and it would not turn over. It makes the clicking noise but will not catch. I jump started it and it worked. Got out of work and it wouldn't start again, got a jump start and took it to pep boys where they tested the battery as good. Could it be a shortage somewhere from the previous work done?
View 5 RepliesA couple of times this winter my 2007 Santa Fe with a 3.3 engine acted like it didn't want to start. I thought battery! However, it stopped doing that, and I kept driving it.
On the way home from work, I noticed the ESC Off light showing, so I pushed the button and it stayed lit. Then I noticed the battery warning light lit. Made it home and pulled into the garage. Turned off the engine and tried to start, no go.
I have changed two batteries this year in my two other Hyundai's, so I just pulled it and got a new one. Installed the new one, started the engine, and the battery warning light is still lit. Must be the alternator.
I have 68k on the vehicle, so I counted myself lucky that the battery lasted that long. I guess I am due for a new alternator too.
What are the chances that it is just the regulator? Can I safely drive to and from work then to the dealership. Round trip is 30 miles.
My 2009 awd SF is less than 4 years old and has about 81500 km on. In the past few days, I start to feel a little hesitation while starting the car. I have an incident today in which the car barely turn over - behaved exactly as if the battery is dying. Took it to the dealer and spent 55$ for a diagnosis => alternator is OK (what a relief) but the battery is weak. I do not think battery would die (stop holding charge) this soon. I expect at least 5-6 years of service from a battery.
View 31 RepliesThe alternator on my wifes '07 Santa Fe (2.2 CRDI) broke down when one of the internal diodes gave up last week. The battery warning light came on when she was driving to work. Since then the Alternator has been rebuilt and refitted, and the battery fully charged. The car now runs fine and the Alternator is putting out around 14.6v so charging the battery OK. The only problem is the warning light is still on. How to get it to turn off ?
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