Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Air Conditioner Fuse Keeps Blowing
Jul 12, 2015
I have a 07' hyundai santa fe and recently I had a 10 amp fuse blow labeled A/CON and so I replaced it and it worked for about 2-3 weeks and it blew again, and so I'm getting more fuses Monday to see if it keeps working, but from what I read online it looks like the field coil is the culprit, I tried to read the ohms from the relay and got .5 kohms (which I see its supposed to be 3-4ohms) but i have a crappy multimeter and I'm not sure if that's right anyway.
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My 2010 Sante Fe started blowing the BCM 1 fuse.The vehicle will not even crank over. Its at the dealer for the 3rd time time this week. 1st time thought it was a faulty fuse, 2nd time replaced the drivers door lock actuator.
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Have 2 problems that are giving me major problems.....especially with 100 degree heat in Dallas.
1. Ac stopped blowing cold last night out of blue. Still blows just not cold. Replaced bad fuse and drove for 5 minutes. Blew again. Checked out the control/ circuit board but looks ok. Really cant afford dealer.
2. Check engine light problem for months. Gas gauge wasn't working. Replaced fuel sending units and it fixed that but still light. Code says p441. Dealer said need solenoid valve. Replaced both the solenoid valve and the purge control valve. Still check engine light.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe. My air conditioner keeps turning on by itself. I press it to turn off, but keeps turning on. I do this several times before it stays off. Then after 10 - 15 minutes, it turns back on. Is this a relay problem or a button problem?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.4L that keeps blowing the ECU fuse under the hood when the ignition is turned on. We have replace the fuel pump and the inertia switch. I have tested the relay, ignition failure sensor, both coils and O2 sensor wiring.
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2007 FJ Cruiser, 4WD, 65K Miles. I replaced the 120 AMP Fuse. Starts, everything seems to work, but the 40 AMP Fuse (ABS Motor) is blown. New fuses blow as soon as I place them in. Brakes pedal has little resistance and can barely stop the vehicle at slow speeds.
What will stop the 40 amp ABS fuse from blowing?
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My 2007 Focus wagon keep blowing (#30) 10amp fuse. It is connected to the tail lights (when the lights are on), the license plate light, and dashboard lights. I think it is related to moisture as it is worse (keeps blowing the fuse) after a rain. I've checked the taillights and there isn't any moisture there (although when I first found this, both taillight housings were pretty melted). Where to look for the short? Some other discussion groups listed different harnesses, but which one...I have the sinking feeling this is going to be impossible to find (or REALLY expensive)
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We bought this car a month ago, 2007 US touring model. It had a 15A fuse in the Gauge position (spec calls for 10A there) when we bought it. As of last week it is blowing a lot.
What we've noticed:
- First time it happened I noticed my signals weren't working. After 5 minutes of driving I pulled over and turned the car off and on. At that point the Combination Meter went blank. After getting home I found the fuse blown. Replaced it with a 10A fuse, and that blew right away when starting the car. Replaced it with a 15A fuse and it worked for a few trips.
- While I was away for a week, my wife replaced the fuse 3 times while it blew away from home. (she estimates every third trip) She has found it seems to happen when putting the car in reverse.
- Today the car is working fine, and I can't replicate the problem.
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My father is having electrical issues and I'm hoping this is the cause. Where this ground cable originates from?
He replaced the battery last week after vehicle would not start. Noticed he blew a radio fuse but nothing else until yesterday. Major issues of all instruments, ac, windows, etc going out. Unable to start vehicle without jump.Had a error code B1676. So today we switched the battery, all is good (for now) except for horn fuse that keeps blowing.
It's a 2007 ford explorer 2wd v6
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I have a Santa Fe 2001 and I towed a trailer today. It was fine at first but when we were trying to position the trailer at the destination the brake light fuse blew which meant the gear stick would not move. Figured out how to start the car again and used the shift lock release to move into drive to get the car off the road. I had to keep pushing that shift lock release button in to change the gears. I had the RACV guy come and change the blown fuse for me, and brake lights are fine now and the car starts, however the gear stick is still playing up. It went ok from park to drive, but then on the way back to park it got stuck at Neutral. Then had to use release again. Checked the fuse and brake lights, all is good there. What could be causing the gear stick to get stuck now? RACV guy couldn't understand why, he said replacing the fuse usually solves the problem.
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Just noticed I have no more horn... I had car alarm issues for a while and the alarm would sound all day in the parking garage while I was at work (was keeping the car unlocked at home...) Finally fixed the hood pin.
Going back to the horn, the horn fuse was burned in the hood relay box, and when I replaced it and tried the horn again, it burned again... Where to start? Do I go for new relays, new horns, new wiring or all of the above...
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However, selecting Mode setting to the floor on the climate control build (as I read) does not seem to turn off the AC from running to off with outside air only. Also, the OFF button does stop everything but once the fan speed is turned up its cold air blowing.
I read through the entire section in the owners manual and there is nothing mentioning it will run if AC is not selected nor any other over ride procedure. I am thinking this is a unique SF Limited issue and solutions for other models don't hold true for me. With the temperature much hotter its not difficult to feel the difference blowing out the vents.
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My air conditioning just stopped blowing cool air. While the blower still operates properly, the air is coolest (but not nearly cool enough or normal) at the extreme right passenger vent, then is progressively warmer toward the driver's side, with the warmest vent being the extreme left at the driver's side next to door. I'm inept at mechanics in general, and especially with autos, which is why I bought the BMW (which tells you when it needs service) to begin with. The only thought I had was that I recently had the car detailed and the engine washed at the BMW dealership. Could something have come loose when power washed under the hood? I'm hesitant to take it back since my last experience was not a good one. I have of course checked all the settings.
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I have to press Cancel before I can get my cruise control to work. I had a problem about a year ago where my cruise control wasn't working, and found out that a blown brake light fuse was the problem. Now I turn my CC on and the "Cruise" light comes on, I then press the set button, and nothing. I then press the cancel button and then the set button and then the "Set" light comes on.
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I have a 2007 3.3 with 42K miles on it and the AC just started passing air that's not quite as cold as it used to be. When its at idle I would say its a mild cold and then when driving its the same mild cold but with more force. Understandably today is really the first hot, humid day of many to come so I was wondering is there any good indication that its just low freon with a leak or the compressor is going or is there any adjustment to the belt in case its just slipping? I did it drive it for quite awhile and it never improved. I would hate to drive it more and ask for a bigger problem.
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I just had a bunch of work done on the engine of my 96 f250 7.5 v8 460 and now whenever I'm going up hill, my air conditioner stops blowing from the vents and after I get back of a level ground it starts blowing again. What it could be?
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My 2009 Santa Fe GLS a/c, heater, etc. blower has stopped blowing air. I have checked the fuses, did the push test on the air adjustment button but nothing has worked. Sometimes it's like I can feel a VERY SMALL amount of air blowing out the vents.
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I have a SF 2009 Limited. Since I bought it 2 years ago, I noticed the heater blows luke warm air. Not hot. It takes 20min for the cabin to reach 22degC when it's only 0 outside.
It was like that when brand new.
It has the auto temp control, so it might be playing tricks on me but I don't think so.
I am tempted to find the pipe feeding the heater radiator and insulate the pipes. Maybe the heater only gets warm liquid.
What else can I do?
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I have a 2006 honda civic lx and the air conditioner works fine when i first start the car.
However, after driving for 15-30 minutes the air conditioner starts blowing progressively warmer air, until it starts blowing warm (or even hot) air. this seems to happen when the engine gets hot.
One particular day it started raining, and suddenly the cold air kicked back in.
I took it to the dealer and they said i needed a compressor and coil for a grand total of $800. i took it for a free a/c inspection, and he said the problem might be electrical, but a visual inspection wasn't enough to figure out the problem.
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My car is a 2006 Mazda Miata, stock except for being lowered and having a different muffler. Nothing really noteworthy about it. I did run over a big chunk of something a few years ago that cracked the plastic undertray under the nose of the car and dented the bottom row of the condenser, but the problem I'm having is more recent.
About a year ago the AC stopped working. I took it to one shop that found there was no refrigerant in the system. They refilled it, and a few hours later it stopped working again. I took it to another shop that detected a leak in one of the schrader valves (the low pressure I think). He replaced that, filled it, and it worked again for another few months.
Recently it stopped working again. I took it to the same guy that replaced the schrader valve and he found that the high pressure hose had failed. He replaced it and refilled the system. It worked for a few hours. Then when I was sitting at a drive thru, a massive cloud of refrigerant erupted from under the hood and the AC stopped working. Took it back to the guy and he found the high pressure hose had blown off. He put it back on, refilled it, and the same thing happened again. Sitting in traffic, the high pressure hose blew and all the refrigerant poured out.
I took it back to him again and he put the hose back on and refilled it again. We let the car idle for about 30 minutes with the AC on and it worked fine. During this he had the high pressure gauge hooked up and it read between 150 and 175 with the car idling (about 70 degrees F ambient temp). He didn't have the low side gauge hooked up. We did see that the fan is working and kicked up to the higher speed. He did say he checked the dryer and that it looked like the bag that held the desiccant was intact, but he didn't mention replacing the dryer in any of these visits.
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2004 Solora ... 185K Miles and after driving about 45-60 minutes the AC stops blowing cold air. The blower inside the car runs, the clutch is still engaged on the compressor yet only warm air is blowing through the vents. If the car sits overnight the AC will work again. It does not always stop after 60 minutes of driving. Sometimes I can go days driving 60 minutes at a time and the AC works the entire time. Other times it will quit after 45 minutes. When it works I have no complaints.
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