Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Air Coming Out Of Vents Get Momentarily Warmer During Intense Acceleration
Aug 21, 2012
Yesterday afternoon when driving back home from a weekend trip I noticed something that I never experienced before. I was climbing a long hill with 4 passengers, the A/C on and the engine under full throttle reaching 5k-6k before shifting from 3rd to 4th, I noticed the air coming out of the vents would get momentarily a bit warmer during this intense acceleration period and then once the revs would drop it would get cold as usual.
Is this the normal behavior of the A/C compressor? Does it get shut momentarily under heavy accel by the ECM? Or is it faulty and it requires a change. My Santa is pretty much new, it's a 2012 model with only 2000km!
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I noticed last night when it's about 64F outside the air coming out of vent feels much warmer, this is with climatronic temp set to LO, re-circulate off and AC off. I've never seen this with my previous cars and I am wondering is this normal? I've tried Google this without much success ..
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I have a 07 Camry XLE, and recently got a great deal on some almost new 2010 highlander 19in rims, the rims are excellent... they have been balanced 2 times by hunter road-force machine and that seem to lower just a bit the vibration at speeds upward of 50mph, but not significant. 4 new tires are 225/40/19. my mechanic checked for bearings,Axel, etc. everything good, the rims are not warped/bended, no damage. air pressure checked..
I contacted a couple other Camry's with them on at car domain and I'm awaiting a reply. Is there something else that can be done about the rattling, intense vibration at high speed ? or just deal with it?
I have the minimum spacers in front because by the rim installers the rims would rub against the front calipers.on my original XLE rims i had no vibration what so ever.
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Just started experiencing an AC problem. First started with diminished cooling and airflow. Checked the filter and it was dirty, so replaced it. Airflow is completely restored however the air from the drivers side vents is significantly warmer than the passenger side vents.
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Cannot figure out how to get the heated air to flow through the back via the rear vents. All I get is outside air. I cannot find anything about it in the manual. The dealer has no clue but is trying to find something on it. New 2009 Santa Fe Limited.
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2015 F-350 diesel purchased in Sept 2014. When moving slowly such as turning a corner and I have to let up on the accelerator momentarily, when I press down again there is nothing for an unsettling period of time, maybe 2 seconds, as though the engine died, but it didn't and it always comes back. Is there a firmware programming update for this?
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So a recent problem on my 2012 sf.. the front vents blow hot and the rear blows cold.?
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I noticed a bit of funky smell coming from the vents when I first turn on the AC and after turning off the AC. So I am trying to locate the air conditioner evaporator drain hose and make sure it's not plugged.
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My 2011 6-speed automatic AWD santa fe was in a front end collision (T-boned a car that pulled out into the road then stopped) but was still drivable, just bumper damage. About a week later while waiting on the front bumper to come in, the starter died mechanically (of course, no relation, according to the shop and insurance adjuster since even though the starter is about 12" behind the point of impact, there was no undercarriage damage, ie, not related to accident). So when they got the part in, they replaced the bumper and the starter.
When I picked up the car from the shop, the check engine light came on when I got out on the road. On the road, the car had almost no acceleration. The engine RPM went up, almost to 7k but the car was moving slowly. This was on the on-ramp of the freeway and very disconcerting. It did make it up to about 40mph initially and then on the slight incline, took me about 30 seconds to make it to 60mph. I got off the freeway and pulled into an Oreilly auto and had them read the code. It came across as the phantom P200A (something about MAF sensor but usually not a true error in this make/model). I called the dealership, took it back. The guy looked at it while I waited, brought it around, said it was fixed, just had to have a code cleared and the check engine light went out. His experience was simply driving it in first, maybe second gear in the lot. He said it was the ECM, and this was typical as it had the battery disconnected for a couple days, the ECM needed to "relearn" the controls. He said give it a few weeks and it would be fine.
I got it out on the road, no more check engine light, but the acceleration/rev situation was still present. It has been a month, and it hasn't gotten better or worse. I can drive the 6-speed in auto around town, though it shifts higher, around 4k RPM if I am at all accelerating, or on even a slight incline. I can put the pedal to the floor while driving in auto, and it drops out of gear and into neutral, at least the way it feels, revs up, would red-line if i didn't come off the gas, but never accelerates, it acts like it drops into neutral. If I am driving with the car in manual shifting mode and choose where I want it to shift, it shifts fine, doesn't feel like it drops to neutral, however I can floor the pedal and it still only slowly accelerates, especially on an incline. It seems to bog down around 40mph or so, and take forever to get above that. Downshifting manually raises the RPM as expected, but no increase in acceleration.
Now I have a check engine light on again, and am taking the car back to the repair shop this week without clearing the light so maybe they can see something else that may have cleared at the auto part store last time. Basically, I have read multiple causes/symptoms which partially match this, but nothing exactly.
1. Limp home mode on ECM
2. Throttle position sensor
3. MAF sensor (or whatever the 2011 Santa Fe has equivalent)
4. TCM (Transmission Control Module)
There was absolutely nothing wrong with the car before the wreck, then the starter. No shifting/idling issues. I am wondering what a repair shop replacing a bumper and transmission could have done, that would create this problem. The transmission couldn't have died between working fine, won't start, and here, your starter and bumper are fixed but the tranny is FUBAR. I am thinking it absolutely HAS to be a sensor or computer controller of some sort, but not much on the web showing which sensors are which and where they are in a 2011 Santa Fe.
I believe the MAF/throttle body has to be removed to get to the starter (directly below it if I am not mistaken). One last thing, it is an AWD... it was towed from my house to the dealership with all 4 wheels up, as required for a AWD vehicle. If the shop pulled it from the lot to the garage, a few hundred feet at most, with 2 wheels up and 2 down, could that cause all this?
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I have a 2009 Sante Fe, it has about 96000KM on it. It is a 3.3 engine AWD.
I find that when I accelerate the thing kind of feels rough. It is very subtle. Like you can almost miss it if I wasn't being so picky. But I can definitely feel something there. What this would be.
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My 07 Santa Fe 3.3 has had a 10% drop in mileage. When put the accelerator to the floor it takes forever to speed up. I feel like I have a 100 Hp engine.
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We purchased a new 2010 Santa Fe Limited in October of last year, and as it stands today, we've put about 19,000km's on the vehicle (about 12,000 miles for my American friends). About 14,000km's in, we started noticing a vibration from the rear under acceleration. When you reached cruising speed (regardless of the speed), the vibration would go away, but would appear under acceleration. What was more alarming was that at slow speeds when making sharp left-hand turns (turning into the driveway, doing a u-turn, pulling into a parking spot, etc), there would occasionally be a loud bang from the rear end. The first time it happened, we thought that we had run over something... actually not but it sure sounded like it!
We took the vehicle into the dealership, and after an inspection they found a rock in one of the rear springs. They removed the rock, applied the TSB to place covers over the springs, test-drove the vehicle, and said the issue was resolved.
The next morning, I was heading out of town to pick up a friend, and experienced a loud bang when I pulled into my buddies driveway. Problem was NOT solved. Called Hyundai again, and made another service appointment. This time with the requirement of having a tech come with me for a test drive.
I was able to reproduce the vibration, which really shocked the tech. At the same time, I was also able to duplicate the loud bang when making sharp turns (I had actually caused it to happen twice when driving around the dealership, but I was alone in the vehicle at the time!), when he concluded that there was probably some binding going on in the drive train. They took the vehicle in, and after looking at it, determined that the coupler in the drive train was defective, and needed to be replaced. They didn't have the part in stock, so they had to order it in; my concern was that the vehicle was unsafe, but they assured me it would be fine to drive until the part came in. I went on a weekend trip with the vehicle, and experienced some pretty severe binding when pulling into parking spots (no bangs, but imagine driving through a lake of molasses) - I had to really give it gas to get it moving into the parking spot - not nice, especially considering what might have happened had it 'unbound' while under throttle...it was certainly not safe, but I survived.
After THREE weeks, the part finally arrived, and was installed yesterday. I'm happy to announce that the vibration has ceased, and I can only assume that the loud bang is gone as well (although I couldn't duplicate that on demand, so I'll never know for sure that it's gone). The Tech did mention that it was a new version of the part, so they just didn't install a new part, it was an upgraded new part.
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Experienced sluggish acceleration with their "09" Santa Fe. I have the 2.7 liter 6 cyl. engine and it seems so sluggish when accelerating. I have replaced all the plugs with some best rated ones specific to my model. I have tried one of the best rated fuel system cleaners. It still seems to have no pep, my daughter's 1999 Honda has far more get up and go.
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2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
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When the vehicle is accelerated the light goes off. When I stop it comes back on, so it seems that the alternator is not charging when the vehicle idles. Could this be a bad belt or maybe the alternator. Charged the battery all night it has 12.40 volts, and is only 1 yr old. At idle the reading on the battery slowly starts dropping, then goes up when under acceleration.
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My company has a fleet of about 20 2007 GL AWD Santa Fe's. A few of them have had a strange problem....AWD, ESC, and check engine lights will turn on and they will lose acceleration of the vehicle. The dealership has said that it is a problem with the electronic throttle. Apparently it has been quite dangerous for some who have been driving at highway speeds and lost acceleration.
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I have owned my 2008 yaris sedan since new. With the temp knob turned to full cold, the air coming in (all vents I think) is always warmer than the outside air. This is annoying; I am forced to turn on the air conditioner even when the outside air is just right. I suspect that an internal flapper valve of some sort is not seating properly and is leaking warm air.
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Noticed a whining noise upon acceleration, today. Noticed that it might be the power steering going. No sooner than I read this, and making a trip to my wife's graduation...Loss of power steering. What should I look for when I take it in, and tell them it's the power steering that is gone. Was reading about a potential correlation with having the rack and pinion replaced. That is something that was done about a year ago. Any real correlation? How bad is it to continue to drive without the power steering?
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Power door locks are supposed to activate when the vehicle accelerates to a certain speed from starting the car but mine suddenly started clicking 4 times on-off-on-off every time the vehicle accelerates from every stop or near stop. It's been doing this for 2 weeks and is getting annoying in stop and go traffic.
I have clicked the lock switch on the driver's door to ensure that it works and is not stuck but not sure what else to check. I also made sure that all doors are closed correctly and no ice or snow in them.
2010 SantaFe w AWD
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'07 FWD Santa Fe exhibits pretty loud "'gear whine" with light acceleration.
Recent ATF change got loads of nasty gook and metallic sludge out of trans.. but no change in gear whine.
Dumb question, but do 2wd Santy's have a differential that I can drain and refill to quieten this whine down a little?
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We have a 2011 Santa Fe we got last October. We have had four different instances where the vehicle suddenly stalled out. The first was within a few weeks of purchase and was blamed on a loose battery negative post that prevented the battery from recharging correctly. When we called the dealership service department we were told that we were not driving it long enough to recharge the battery and that the battery light would go out once it recharged. Well all the lights went out when the car died going through an intersection at night with my wife at the wheel.
The second through fourth issue is that without warning there is a total loss of acceleration then the engine light comes on. The first time this happened my wife was able to steer off the road and after a few minutes was able to restart and drive the car home. I then drove the car about a mile when it happened to me. The car was towed to the dealership where they said there was a required software update. Really?? After that it drove fine for about a month then stalled when my wife was merging onto a freeway.
The dealership checked and found three active codes: P2106 Forced Limit Power, P2110 Force Limit RPM and P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range. They also checked TSB updates and found (12-FL-004) for ECM. They also called Tech Line and recommended change of Throttle Body Assembly. This is all under warrantly. We got the car back yesterday.
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