Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: After Start Up Idling And Stalls - RPM Drops
Dec 14, 2011
I have a 2009 Santa fe 3.3L V6 (live Montreal, Canada), since the past week when I start it up, I've noticed that after 1 minute or so while the it is idling my rpm's drop from 1000 to about 650 for split second and it seems to want to stall. The same thing happens when driving for a a small distance when ever I have to make a stop my Santa fe rpm's drop (split second) so low it seems to want to stall. Could it be related to Throttle Sensor Position?
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When I start the engine it works fine while the motor is cold (idle normal all smooth). When the engine the temperature reach normal operating range the car loose power and idle drops to 350-500 rpm and if i am driving I can not go over 40mi/h. I drive a 2008 Sta Fe now with 96000 KM (~~60000 miles). A month ago the engine start shaking severely and knocking noise (like some spark plugs where not working), from this to now:
Changed all sparks plugs
Changed all ignition coils
Now this situation looks more related to temperature of the engine.
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This happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
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Something I haven't seen yet. 2007 2.9l is hard to start and stalls after filling up with gas. After it runs a minute, no problems. Is it something with the gas cap maybe????? The catalytic converts have been changed, maybe something with the O2 sensors???
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i have a 2.2 crdi 2009 santa fe and when my foots off the gas pedal it has this strange vibrating hum noise that comes and goes - it doesn't matter if its in Park or Neutral.
You can only hear it inside the cab so im thinking maybe its something up against the firewall but i can't see what?
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I have a 2009 with 45,000 miles. It has been idling goofy for a while. Last winter when it was cold it the engine when first started would jump around between 200 - 800rpm when idling. I went and had the fuel system cleaned. It wasn't noticeable when it was warm out and it did not jump around as dramatically on cold starts. Lately it started bouncing on every start from 400rpm-800rpm. It drives fine, just idles bouncy. The other night it lost power while driving. The engine was running but when the accelerator was pushed it would not speed up. It was limping along at 20mph and the engine light on the dash turned on. After sitting for little bit, the engine light was off and drove normally again. I have an apt. for the dealer to look at it next week, but of course I will not be able to recreate the event and there are no error codes.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe 2.2 crdi auto with 67k on the clock. It's hard to explain but recently the car is idling much deeper than usual, that typical diesel everything vibrating feel when sat at lights. Its fine when I'm on the move but once i drop below 1000rev and more so when in Drive, not as bad in Neutral. I went over a speed bump the other day and i can swear i felt something change when i went over the bump.
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I've got an issue with my 2007 Santa Fe.... At the first drive of the day, the truck stalls as accelerating. Happens like clockwork and sometimes the stall is so hard that the truck stalls. I've noticed a few things... It happens when there is medium to hard acceleration from stop (1st gear) until when it shifts to 2nd. I noticed the battery and seatbelt light flash during the stall (prob cause truck just died) and then it regains power. If I put the car in manual, it rides 1st gear no problem. If I accelerate very slowly, it shifts normally and continues to drive. This only happens from 1st to 2nd gear. I've replaced the TPS, plugs, cleaned the TB and intake tube.
I have not yet took it to the dealer for the PCM update for the new TPS. What should I try next??? Crank sensor? MAF sensor? Replace throttle body? I also wondered if maybe it was an electrical issue. I've noticed when I drive into a tunnel and the auto lights come on my lights dim and the seatbelt light (no chime) begins to flash. I replaced the alternator about a 9 months ago due to failure. Or is this maybe a tranny issue? This only happens the first drive of the day. As the keep driving and come to a complete stop and continue, it does not stall from 1st to 2nd.
I pulled codes a few months back and it had about 4 codes related to the TPS. I replaced both fuel tank level sensors yesterday and my CEL is gone (truck still stalls).
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My santa fe was driving down the street and then it bucked and stopper. The starter would not turn over, nothing. New battery last weekend. Charged it up and the thing started. Even ran with the negative off the battery. It makes a whining noise inside the cab, and idling. Is the altn. going?
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Back to my 2007 FWD 2.7L Santa Fe. It has no Visors because a prior owner had them break and fall while driving, hitting them in the face. They dangled by the vanity light wires. They tore them out to get the visor out of their face before an accident happened. I priced new visors at $230 a pair plus shipping online. Ouch, a lot for another set of junk visors!
Recently the car stumbles and the ESC and engine light comes on. Had the codes checked then I and surfed the web and found it to likely be the TPS but the only one to fix it would be of course be the dealer. Diagnosis is $125. plus $70 part plus installation and then $105 to reprogram the TPS. I found the part online for $35. I will install it and then take it to the dealer to program it. So $140 instead of $500! I have yet to do that because I took the TB off and cleaned it. It stumbled a few more times and then ran fine for weeks. Its doing it again though once in a while, some days nothing happens others it happens 4 or 5 times. So I will have to get it done sooner than later. I have however found that it wont stumble and die if I put the car in neutral before I come to a stop. It just happens when its in gear, otherwise it runs fine. So until I take it in to replace the TPS I will use that technique.
I will follow up once I have installed the new TPS and had it programmed so you all will know if that took care of it. I have read some installed the TPS and in short time the computer adjusted to where it worked fine but fuel mileage was poor. Being I know how to drive it to keep it from dying at a stop now, I will wait until I get time and $100 to take it to the dealer for programming.
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My 2007 Hyundia Santa Fe has an erratic knocking/clicking sound when idling & has for about 6 months or so. Other than the clicking noise it drives just fine. I am wondering if this may be a result of a bad oil change experience I had in 2012. I'll explain ....
When driving home, once the car had warmed up, my oil pressure warning light came on whenever I came to a stop or idling. I thought this was strange but thought maybe it had to do with new oil fill & would go away.
All I knew was I didn't have the problem before the oil change - nor have I ever in all the time I have owned the car - seen the oil pressure light come on and stay on once the car is started. So I brought the car into Hyundai as soon as I could to explain the situation. They opened the oil filter compartment and quickly realized that whoever changed the filter neglected to put back a part that sits on top of the filter that regulates the oil pressure (only a $15 part without which the damage & cost of driving without is potentially huge).
There is more, but I think you get the drift. So, I am wondering if possible damage as a result of that faulty oil change might have something to do with my current problem or is it not possible given the time/km between when that happened and now? The car had just over 80,000 km at the time and currently has aprox 105,000. I have properly maintained the oil etc since that as well as prior to.
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Well all is ok now but I am not one to ignore or forget a symptom. After a long drive into the city over Christmas I pulled in to park at my destination. It was idling rough when I stopped. Vibration my be a better adjective but not too bad. It did not feel like ignition etc, not MIL on and putting it in Part did not change it. I shut it off and went inside for the festivities. Started it for the drive back and all was ok.
Whether some bad gas with water got in or something else I don't know as it as above freezing but I got thinking about this dam harmonic balancer pulley may have had on the 3.3L go. I have seen some post in in 2006 as well with this engine in other models. I got some 47L of quality Shell gas later on as well for the drive home days later. Still no issues but... IT HAPPENED AND I DON'T FORGET so I am thinking about it.
Is this a major problem on SF's some went as early as 30k from the owers. I had no other indicators and I doubt there is going to be much to see in the space with a light.
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Everything about my '08 2.7l Santa Fe seems/drives fine, but it always has a light clicking noise when idling and maybe even at higher revs. Is a little bit of this clicking normal or does the valve clearance need to be inspected and/or adjusted?
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My 2007 Sante Fe had problem this week. Took 6 attempts to start engine, then ran smoothly the rest of the night. The check engine light came on while trying to start vehicle.
Next day I changed the spark plugs but now find that the vehicle jerks when idling. Runs fine when going but jerks and bucks at stop lights and stop signs. Just added fuel injection cleaner to see if that may support the situation.
Engine light has come back on again since resetting. I have read several suggestions on internet regarding leak in vacuum line, Coil Pack damage due to faulty hose, even faulty 02 sensor.
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I have a cylinder 3 misfire and the vehicle is idling rough so I took it to the deal because I have a power terrain warranty. They're telling me I'll need a new manifold and plenum, coil pack, plugs, and gasket. Could this be accurate? I don't want to get screwed over...
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2007 2.7 GLS ... I like many have encountered the P0441 code and my Santa Fe stalls after fueling and requires constant revving for a bit to stay going. Previous threads seem to point to the Purge Control Valve.
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I have an old (fourth generation before 2005) and low performance bmw 316 at its 40 000 km (its been in garage for some time after it's done 19 000, then i bought it, so everything rubbery is problematic), i feel like it burns more fuel then it should considering its performance , since its almost 20 sec. from .naught to 60 , it has a more noticeable engine braking compared to my 2005 passat 1.6 (almost twice as effective), and a higher fuel consumption, when i stop the engine when idling, the rpm needle (or whatever it is, not a native speaker) drops to 0 immediately like in a millisecond or so.. no inertia no nothing, oil and everything is regularly checked up but i think there is something deeper going on.
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Car started idling weird last night. Drops to about 500 then up to 1000, thrn down again. CEL has been on for over a month but has not affected driving. Engine shakes and doesn't sound normal. I was told by mechanic CEL was caused by a vacuum leak, but he didn't have the smoke machine to pinpoint the leak. That was over a month ago and I haven't had the chance to go back. What are the first things I could check for besides the vacuum leak?
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With the cold weather arriving I've recently noticed that when I have the heater on it does fine while I'm going down the road. However when I idle at an intersection the blower still works but the heat drops off.
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We have a sled dog team and purchased a 2012 GMC Savana, pulled out the seats then added wire dog kennels to transport them. This question involves air-conditioning since we don’t want hotdogs. Traveling on the highway during the summer in 90 degree plus weather the air conditioning works fine and cools to 35 degrees plus or minus out the vents (We have a thermometer on a vent). When we stop at a rest stop to potty the dogs we leave the engine running and the air conditioning on to keep them cool.
Almost immediately the air blowing from the vents starts rising to 70 degrees. My 2012 Ford Explorer does not have this issue and holds a steady cool temperature while at idle. Our dealer added dye found a leak and it was repaired so the system is topped off and the problem has persisted. Where to look next such as failed switches or compressor problems and what a dealer needs to do to make a repair. They feel the air conditioning is preforming well.
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I have a 2013 Corolla S. I notice when I let the car idle for like 5-10 minutes the Average mpg readout drops to around 22 mpg(in city while driving it is usually at 25). Why is this?
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