Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: AWD Light Stayed On And Did Not Disengage
Jul 28, 2012
So today I was playing around with a Honda civic from light to light with my 2012 v6 AWD Santa fe. After lighting the tires up on the first light I decided to hit the AWD lock switch.
Second stop light was great, my suv launched and before I knew it I was doing 100km/h. Only problem is my AWD light stayed on and didn't disengage? Is this normal?... I could be wrong but I think my check engine light flashed but I'm not 100% on that.
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Randomly, on my way home from work yesterday, the ECS light turned on, and stayed on for about 10 miles.
I got home, turned the car on and off, even drove around for 10 more minutes, and the light never turned back on.
Now this morning, on my way to work, the light popped back on and stayed on.
I have a 2011 Santa Fe, 4 cylinder.
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This is regarding a 2007 santa fe.
Today I noticed my airbag warning light came on and stayed on driving to the store. At the store, I locked the doors with the remote, but when trying to set the alarm (second click of the remote) it would not arm (no lights/horn). About 30 seconds later, the alarm then sounded on its own. Had to hit "unlock" on the remote. 30 sec later, the door locks by itself (as it should) but then again, 30 sec after that, the alarm sounds.
Don't know if the airbag light and alarm issue are related. Sounds like a possible electrical issue. We're bringing it in next week anyways, but if it's something simple that I can look for, it will save my wife a trip and gas.
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I have a weird situation with my sf. I start the car normally put in gear then back to park and have radio on and when shutting the car off and removing the key from the ignition. Normally everything goes out and doors unlock, But the radio, clock and dome light stayed on even with the door opened for about 10 to 15 seconds. Then it shuts off completely and unlocks the doors as usual. Did unplug the battery for 1 minute to see if the BCM could be reset and restarted with no avail it keeps acting up. The only thing that I did yesterday was to install the front left rail cover which required some fiddling with the headliner and its dome and vanity lights.
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I picked up my Santa Fe yesterday. 7 seater Premium manual.
However the clutch does not seem to disengage until very close to the floor almost to the extent that I feel the gears crunch and r a little notchy in use because of this ???
Is this a characteristic of the manual gearbox for the new model ???
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I was driving today and at a traffic light a severe smell of burnt plastic filled the cabin and the A/C blower started to change speed than stayed at full blast and even if I'd turn the knob from side to side or tried to shut everything off with the ""OFF""button nothing would happen........so we drove home and at some point it shut itself off...tried it again and seems ok now.....every dealer closed today and leaving for the USA tomorrow morning.... What the problem could be?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Tundra which I purchased new. Within days of taking ownership the tire pressure warning light came on and and stayed on. This problem has continued to this day and the Toyota dealer can't seem to fix it. I know that the sensors/transmitters are on all the tires including the spare and I check the pressure and it's always within spec. For years all they did was reset the light and told me that would fix it, but within days the light comes back on. Most recently they agreed to replace the computer which receives the signals saying that was the problem. But the second time I drove it the light came back. They claim all of the tire sensors/transmitters are fine. What might be causing this and how to fix it?
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Ok santa fe 2006 (facelift) clutch was slipping. We've put new clutch kit in it (thrust bearing; friction and pressure plate). We discovered it had already had the DMF concersion to single mass. So we ordered the single mass clutch kit for it and fitted. All back together, clutch won't disengage and allow you to put it in gear!!! So took it all apart again to check the fitting as the inspection hatch it just didnt appear all fingers on the pressure plate was being pulled.. all looked correct, thrust bearing snapped in to place as it should... we got box back on (making sure the lever entered the thrust bearing correctly) and still no luck. When you press the clutch you can pull the rubber on the slave cylinder back and the piston moves all the way to the circlip. There appears to be movement on the pressure plate in the box. At a complete loss.......... what could have happened?
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Santa Fe 2003 petrol manual 2.4
I had a slipping clutch so decided to change it myself.
I replaced the Dual Mass Flywheel the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate.
Re assembled and the car started first time but the clutch would not disengage.
Pressed the clutch peddle down and it went to the floor until the fluid had filled then it went solid.
I pressed it down again and the clutch did not release so pressed harder and 'pop' the master clynder went - but the clutch would not disengage.
Taken the gearbox back off now and the release bearing is in sit it just would not disengage -
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So after putting my 2007 explorer in 4 high, it seems to be stuck that way. I can put into 4 low and hear it engage. When I select 4 high or 4 auto, I can hear the 4 low disengage. However, it never goes out of 4 high. The indicator goes off, but i can still feel it is engaged. What to do to turn it off?
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Same car I posted about a couple of days ago. It was running fine. My son was driving on the freeway, and tapped the brakes to disengage the cruise control, and the transmission just stopped working. It was not in gear after doing this and the transmission would not engage. It was nothing like a slipping transmission. The engine just revs with no resistance.
Got it towed home and checked the codes: P1529, generic 'Check Engine' light from the TCU; P0760 Transmission solenoid C and P0765 Transmission solenoid D. I have googled these codes individually, but not sure how they tie together.
Oh, I overfilled the transmission. Probably a quart too much because I didn't know how much extra I needed for the torque converter. I doubt this is the issue, but I will drain the excess. Where to check next?
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owner of a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon, 6 spd manual, 32k km's. (leased) I'm having repeated persistent parking brake failures (won't engage, or won't disengage).
-About two months ago the parking brake would not disengage, error message on the MFD, yellow warning light and warning tone. Called roadside, finally got it disengaged by removing one terminal from the battery. Took it straight to the dealership, they "fixed" it by resetting the computer.
- The next day I have auto hold engaged, parking brake did not disengage when I turned the car back on. Had to turn engine on/off several times before it disengaged.
- Took it to the dealership again, had to get a rental car over a weekend while they diagnosed the problem. This time they changed some wiring and replaced the parking brake button.
- Next day the parking brake engaged ok but wouldn't disengage. Same routine on/off/on/off to get it to disengage.
- Back to the dealership again, they decided to replace the brake control module but didnt have stock.
- Last week I took the car back in (4th trip for this issue), they replaced the module and said it was fixed. Next day my wife got stuck in a parking lot with the parking brake stuck on.
- Called the dealership last friday and asked them to come pick it up this time, as my wife and I are sick of the inconvenience of this issue. (we share the car, both work, and also have a child's daycare to schedule around)
The problem is intermittent but not difficult to cause a fault. Can be caused when engaging, disengaging, or when the PB kicks in from auto hold when turning the car off. I try not to use it, but sometimes is necessary (parking on hills etc).
The dealership doesnt seem to know the problem and are just throwing parts at it. What recourse do I have for repeated problems? The manual recommends using this parking brake EVERY time the car is parked, so I don't think it's too much to ask to have it working properly.
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Last night I changed out my alternator and charged the batteries on my Excursion. When I went to start it up the ABS light stayed on. I scanned for codes but no luck there.
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1999 Olds Intrigue, 3.8 eng.Last month, I replaced the Oil Level sensor while changing the oil, which was causing an oil leak due to a broke seal. Three weeks later, the "Low Oil" light came on and stayed on shortly after starting the car. I checked the oil level and it was full. I went ahead and drove it to work. No engine operating errors during the drive. While continuing to drive the car (yes, driving it), I did notice that the light stays off after starting the engine at operating temps, but comes on while the engine is cool (Faulty sensor?) I asked an Autozone associate about a Oil Pressure gauge to test the engine but was told that they dont sell such a thing. Chiltons repair manual says to use a 3amp fuse jumper to test the Oil Level and Oil Pressure sensor. What a fuse jumper is.
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Is there a correlation between a Prius sitting in the hot sun and the computer malfunctioning? When I came out from a movie yesterday, the temps read 106 degrees outside the car. The emergency brake light was on, though the brake was off. I pumped the brake on/off a couple of times, but the light stayed on. As I pulled out, the brake seemed to engage, then disengage causing the engine to stutter and surge. The service tech today tells me the computer is not communicating and at 50,000 miles. Is it worth the money to get the new computer? Will the car be safe afterwards?
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Yesterday morning, when starting my 2010 Prius, the red BRAKE light stayed on, and also the yellow Traction Control light and yellow ABS light. The brakes seemed less than usual. Dealer says the left rear caliper froze up, causing the ABS sensor to melt, causing the system to go into fail-safe mode (no regenerative braking).
I have done no hard braking, the car is currently getting over 50 mpg, and has only 57,368 miles on it. I checked the brake fluid level, it looks fine. Also shut down and restarted several times, no change, lights still on.
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I had the oil changed in my 2009 Prius but the "change oil" light stayed lit. Rather than taking it back in to the Jiffy Lube, I found instructions on this site for resetting the light (hold down odometer button while pressing on button twice, etc.) and the display did what it was supposed to--the numbers were replaced with dashes and it seemed like the system reset. But the oil light remained on. I tried it several times to no avail.
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This morning I went out to warm my car up for a few minutes because it has been so cold and when I started it the red triangle warning light stayed on and the consumption screen said "problem" across the top with a little icon in the upper left hand corner that looked similar to a high beam headlight indicator. I turned the car off and started it again wondering if it would clear which it did not. I left it running and went inside to get my child and by the time I came out it had cleared itself.
In typing this I recall that I thought it stayed on a little longer than normal the other day and just ignored it thinking it was still in lamp test mode on initial start up.
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I recently had my tpms light turn on when I started my car in the morning. It blinked for about a minute and then stayed on. After checking my tire pressure and seeing they were all normal, I checked online and found that when the tpms light acts like it is for me, it means there is a malfunction somewhere, so rather than deal with trying to fix it, I went into vagcom to turn it off. I went to the proper byte/box for tpms and unchecked it. But the light is still on...
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I have 2006 Honda civic my SRS indicator light came on and stayed on about a week and a half ago, Today while driving the car i turned the steering wheel and the horn went on by itself and even stayed on for a minute. Later the volume on the radio went off when i turned the steering wheel and then the cruise control light came on and stayed on, i can't' turn it off. The horn no longer works.
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So, for the first time in 6 years and 82K miles, the engine light (malfunction indicator light) came on while driving and stayed on (no blinking... knock on wood). This is about a week after passing the emissions test. I turned the gas cap three ticks, so I'm hoping that the light will go off in a few days.
The manual seems to say that if it blinks you should proceed at reduced power and get it checked out immediately. Do I have to drive slow if it's not blinking? I'm a good two hours from home and I'd prefer to drive at my normal pace. This is probably nothing, right?
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