Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: A/C Malfunction - Blowing Hot Air
Jul 6, 2015
However, selecting Mode setting to the floor on the climate control build (as I read) does not seem to turn off the AC from running to off with outside air only. Also, the OFF button does stop everything but once the fan speed is turned up its cold air blowing.
I read through the entire section in the owners manual and there is nothing mentioning it will run if AC is not selected nor any other over ride procedure. I am thinking this is a unique SF Limited issue and solutions for other models don't hold true for me. With the temperature much hotter its not difficult to feel the difference blowing out the vents.
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My wife drives a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited which we bought new back in 09. she has put roughly 140,000 miles in that time span. We have religiously followed all required maintenance routines; this is the first major issue we have EVER had with our Santa Fe. The issue we are having involves the AC unit. Instead of blowing ice cold air, the air vents are blowing hot air as if the heater is on. I have check all major AC components and everything is working properly. I believe we are having a controls issue.
At one point, all vents would only blow hot air. The other day, the passenger side vents started blowing ice cold air while the driver side still blew hot air. The driver's side has not blown cold air since this issue started about a week ago. We do have dual climate control; I have tried every possible combination of controls to see if it's a particular switch or button; however, I have not had much luck.
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When I pull the wipers lever backwards, washer fluid supply in tank lowers, but there don`t come liquid out for the jets.
The rear jets don`t spray liquid . The auto sweeping function works OK (7 times).
The only way to spray a little of liquid is pulling the lever many times at once.
I deduct that the fluid is going or evaporating somewhere, The pump makes the noise that`s working...as always.
Someone told me that ejectors are clogged, but I used a pin to clean them and some liquid spits out.
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Month ago the malfunction indicator turned on. On checking it was found that wires over the engine were eaten by rats. Reconnection of wires solved the problem.
Today the malfunction indicator light is blinking. Could it be the same wires going loose?
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe SE 3.3L and my tachometer doesn't work. I feel that the tach meter it self is good and same with the wiring. Where does the signaling come from that goes to the meter does it come from the Engine computer or is there another sensor?
Note in addition to this I have good reading on the ODmeter, Speed, Range, but my AVG MPG does show any value. I will be changing my fuel sensor here in a week since my gas gauge is not giving true readings. I am thinking that is why I am not getting an average MPG.
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Yesterday I changed battery after that its seems malfunction indicator lamp stays on, i checked with hyundai service center they told to reset the program then diagnose the problem, then only come to know the issue or not issue they asked 20rial, i m wondering just changed the battery got some issue.
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Recently my santa fe has been acting up. One time I got in and nothing came on, no light, door noise, nothing. I closed, then opened my door and everything turned back on, clock reset itself and the cd changer kept shuffling through the cds. Another time this happens before I got in the car. I opened my door to hear the cd changer shuffling and the clock had reset. This has happened 4 time in the pasted 3 weeks.
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I have a 2007 3.3 with 42K miles on it and the AC just started passing air that's not quite as cold as it used to be. When its at idle I would say its a mild cold and then when driving its the same mild cold but with more force. Understandably today is really the first hot, humid day of many to come so I was wondering is there any good indication that its just low freon with a leak or the compressor is going or is there any adjustment to the belt in case its just slipping? I did it drive it for quite awhile and it never improved. I would hate to drive it more and ask for a bigger problem.
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I have a 07' hyundai santa fe and recently I had a 10 amp fuse blow labeled A/CON and so I replaced it and it worked for about 2-3 weeks and it blew again, and so I'm getting more fuses Monday to see if it keeps working, but from what I read online it looks like the field coil is the culprit, I tried to read the ohms from the relay and got .5 kohms (which I see its supposed to be 3-4ohms) but i have a crappy multimeter and I'm not sure if that's right anyway.
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My 2010 Sante Fe started blowing the BCM 1 fuse.The vehicle will not even crank over. Its at the dealer for the 3rd time time this week. 1st time thought it was a faulty fuse, 2nd time replaced the drivers door lock actuator.
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My 2009 Santa Fe GLS a/c, heater, etc. blower has stopped blowing air. I have checked the fuses, did the push test on the air adjustment button but nothing has worked. Sometimes it's like I can feel a VERY SMALL amount of air blowing out the vents.
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I have a SF 2009 Limited. Since I bought it 2 years ago, I noticed the heater blows luke warm air. Not hot. It takes 20min for the cabin to reach 22degC when it's only 0 outside.
It was like that when brand new.
It has the auto temp control, so it might be playing tricks on me but I don't think so.
I am tempted to find the pipe feeding the heater radiator and insulate the pipes. Maybe the heater only gets warm liquid.
What else can I do?
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So a recent problem on my 2012 sf.. the front vents blow hot and the rear blows cold.?
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Have 2 problems that are giving me major problems.....especially with 100 degree heat in Dallas.
1. Ac stopped blowing cold last night out of blue. Still blows just not cold. Replaced bad fuse and drove for 5 minutes. Blew again. Checked out the control/ circuit board but looks ok. Really cant afford dealer.
2. Check engine light problem for months. Gas gauge wasn't working. Replaced fuel sending units and it fixed that but still light. Code says p441. Dealer said need solenoid valve. Replaced both the solenoid valve and the purge control valve. Still check engine light.
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In my 2007 SF Ltd 3.3L both the Cig lighter and front console power outlet keep blowing fuses. I've checked inside the of the sockets and they seem just fine. This is no big deal but I would like to charge my phone. What I should look at next?
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Customer's car died about 2 hours from me. What this could be? It is at a shop now, and I walked them through how to test the main fusable link in the engine bay, and they said it was good. They also checked the 12v battery and that tested good. Here is what happened.
The customer was driving, then he said the triangle of the death and check engine light came on. Then, he kept driving for a little while and then all the sudden everything went dark and he coasted to the shoulder. The car hasn't had the inverter coolant pump recall done, so I am leaning towards that. The car's dome lights come on, the key can unlock and lock the car, but if you slide the key in and press the power button, nothing happens. What on earth would cause that?
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My 96 Passat GLX-VR6 Wagon is blowing a white smoke that smells like maple syrup if I do any temp adjustments on my AC. It's also not blowing any cool or cold air in the coldest setting. Any thoughts? Heater Core? Just need freon?
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This morning my AC was working just fine, air blew cold and nothing seemed wrong. But then tonight when I went out it was cold outside so I decided to turn the heat on.. That's when a problem happened. Tried turning the AC on but no air came out the vents at all. Tried all the air settings, nothing at all, even when it's on "4". The only thing that seems to work is the re-cycilation button, it lights up and I can hear it working. So to sum it up, no air coming out the vents and the AC light won't turn on when I push it in.
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AC needed regassing on my phaeton, lasted over a year before another regas, then 3 months and its blowing warm again
my symptoms:
1)AC stops blowing cold a few months after AC recharge
2)When it was blowing cold most cold was through only one vent (the one to the left of the steering wheel), whilst it was getting weaker (vlowing warmer) the one vent was blowing cold rest were all blowing warm
3)Slight condensation settling in center of windscreen, especially after rain
4)Something rattly rolls across the inside dash on occasion when turning sharply!
the codes:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
defective or incorrect basic settings
00445 - Loss of Refrigerant
I imagine the compressor has a leak. Euro Car Parts will fit and gave the part number as 3D0 820 803T. I've got it booked into the local dealership but am worried about a ridiculous bill.
There's a couple of mechanics I could use locally I suppose but its a very rare care with a very complicated AC system I hear. Especially on the part numbers and where to get a cheap compressor (if indeed that is the problem) I've got the shareware version of VCDS so cant do complicated stuff I've read about basic settings for HVAC and I've run that didn't work with the V71 motor code.
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I posted earlier about the tranny in my 01 Ex v10 having a transmission problem. The show looked at it and found the O2 sensor had shorted out and in some way sending the truck in to limp home causing the tranny fuse to blow????
Any way they fixed it or so they said and I drove it for a few hours and it did fine. The next morning I drove it and it blew the fuse. (under hood box I belive #19) I took it back to the shop and they beat and banged on it....got it wet etc. and can not get it to do it again. I know whe have an electrical issue but what all runs off of the fuse that controlls the tranny?
Is there any online wiring diagrams of excursions or superduty drive trains? Where all to look for the problem?
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got in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
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