Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: A/C Blower Started To Change Speed Then Stayed At Full Blast
Jul 30, 2011
I was driving today and at a traffic light a severe smell of burnt plastic filled the cabin and the A/C blower started to change speed than stayed at full blast and even if I'd turn the knob from side to side or tried to shut everything off with the ""OFF""button nothing would happen........so we drove home and at some point it shut itself off...tried it again and seems ok now.....every dealer closed today and leaving for the USA tomorrow morning.... What the problem could be?
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I have a 2008 mountaineer that the blower motor runs on full blast no matter what. The switch bars go up and down but blower motor does not change speeds. also upon opening the hood I found 2 large mouse nests ,1 on passenger side fender and 1 center of engine towards the back. Are these related or could it be a switch issue. How to remove switch and test it.
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I have a 2006 Sonata and just a few weeks ago the AC/Heater Blower would only work on full blast. You actually had to have the control set a little before the full setting to get it to come on. Both the heat and the AC worked. Now, nothing is coming out on any speed setting. I've replaced the blower resistor and checked the fuses/relay and they seem fine.
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I noticed that I have an unusual "rumble" noise coming from the location of my ac blower motor when it kicks in full blast. When the air temp comes down a bit and the AC slows down or if I switch the ac off full blast under climate control, the noise goes away. I have never noticed this before and am wondering if it is my ac blower motor starting to fail.
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2008 hyundai santa fe. 106,000
Bought the car six months ago.Found out 2 weeks later we couldn't put gas in it. Dealership refused to fix it because we bought as is. So we managed to find one gas station in a 20 Mile radius that we could put gas in it.It takes around 10 minutes to put half a tank in. Shortly after that the gas gauge started to fluctuate from full to empty. And the check engine finally came on. Had the the check engine light checked.Fuel level sensor A was faulty. Took it to a local Goodyear in stead of the dealer ship. The sensors were 119.00 a piece and the labor was 145.00 to replace both. Had both replaced .Fuel gauge is working correctly now. But still having issue putting gas in car.
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The blower on my 06 sonata is only working in high speed, before this it was going haywire automatically increasing and decreasing in speed. Funny thing was that it was blowing air even after i switched off HVAC.
When I got home i removed the blower resistor to check it because the symptoms were pointing to the blown resistor but it doesn't look burned to me. What else could it be?
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My heater and a/c on my car have been acting up!
Yesterday I got into my car I turned on my heater and it didn't work! So I pushed the a/c button and that did nothing either! No air came out of the vents at all even on full blast... So I tried turning it off and back on and nothing happen then it finally worked but when i tried to turn it off it wouldn't turn off then randomly turned off by its self!!!
Whats going on and what I should check for this problem ?
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My dad's 1993 Lincoln Town Car runs great but the fan for heat or AC only will run at full blast or nothing. Makes it difficult to drive when it's real hot or cold out. Can this be remedied without costing an arm and a leg? The car is 21 yrs. old and not worth a lot.
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So today I was playing around with a Honda civic from light to light with my 2012 v6 AWD Santa fe. After lighting the tires up on the first light I decided to hit the AWD lock switch.
Second stop light was great, my suv launched and before I knew it I was doing 100km/h. Only problem is my AWD light stayed on and didn't disengage? Is this normal?... I could be wrong but I think my check engine light flashed but I'm not 100% on that.
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Randomly, on my way home from work yesterday, the ECS light turned on, and stayed on for about 10 miles.
I got home, turned the car on and off, even drove around for 10 more minutes, and the light never turned back on.
Now this morning, on my way to work, the light popped back on and stayed on.
I have a 2011 Santa Fe, 4 cylinder.
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This is regarding a 2007 santa fe.
Today I noticed my airbag warning light came on and stayed on driving to the store. At the store, I locked the doors with the remote, but when trying to set the alarm (second click of the remote) it would not arm (no lights/horn). About 30 seconds later, the alarm then sounded on its own. Had to hit "unlock" on the remote. 30 sec later, the door locks by itself (as it should) but then again, 30 sec after that, the alarm sounds.
Don't know if the airbag light and alarm issue are related. Sounds like a possible electrical issue. We're bringing it in next week anyways, but if it's something simple that I can look for, it will save my wife a trip and gas.
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The heater fan in the van will only work on full blast and the rear wiper/ ac button lights flash which I had another 98 caravan that I was driving that had the same issue with the flashing lights. What is that all about?
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My Prius' battery died this week after a respectable 163731 miles. I barely got it to the dealership . It was sluggish, engine racing, one purple bar and the battery fan was going full blast. It totally freaked me out.
21 working days for battery from Japan. I've been expecting it. I figure I can then drive the car for another couple of years.
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I have a weird situation with my sf. I start the car normally put in gear then back to park and have radio on and when shutting the car off and removing the key from the ignition. Normally everything goes out and doors unlock, But the radio, clock and dome light stayed on even with the door opened for about 10 to 15 seconds. Then it shuts off completely and unlocks the doors as usual. Did unplug the battery for 1 minute to see if the BCM could be reset and restarted with no avail it keeps acting up. The only thing that I did yesterday was to install the front left rail cover which required some fiddling with the headliner and its dome and vanity lights.
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Lately, I've noticed that when I start the car in the morning, the radiator fans come on at full blast, even though it's around 20 degrees F (not all the time, but most days). My temperature gauges all show (what I assume are) correct temps as it starts out cold, water first goes to 200 and stops, then oil slowly climbs and stops at 200 I believe.
They don't climb any faster or slower that I've seen, and usually by the time I get to work (around 20 minutes), the oil temp has probably climbed about 3/4 of the way to normal while the water is steady at 200.
Is this normal? I don't recall this happening, as I would've noticed as the fans are quite loud at full blast. I haven't had a chance to run a diagnostic scan yet, but the car hasn't warned me of anything either.
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I have a 2005 Subaru Forester with 88k on it. I bought it with about 70k on and have been doing a lot of the services myself.
I change the oil religiously. I recently changed the thermostat on the car, cleaned out the reservoir and now the car has new antifreeze. The reason I did this was because cars cooling fan is always going at full blast. This only started about 6,000 miles ago. So since it was a easy job I figured change the thermostat. I am in NY and it has been very cold out, but with my 10 mile commute to work by the time I pull into the parking lot the cooling fan is very loud and the noise is very noticeable.
I recently drove up to go skiing, ( the temp outside was 9 degrees) I was on the interstate going about 70 to 77 mph because the car was going uphill and the incline was significant , I would push more on the gas pedal and I would see the thermostat on the dash going up very closely to the red mark. I pulled over a few time, the fans were at full blast.
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I have a 2000 Buick Regal LS. This problem used to be intermittent but has gotten to the point that I never see a "normal" operating state from my HVAC controller unit, so I need to get it fixed. The problem is that when I turn my car on the controller comes up completely blank except the 4 red lights on the passenger side climate control. The heater then (at the same time) turn on FULL BLAST and is stuck in the 90 degree setting (hottest possible). I got to the point that I pulled the high fan fuse just so I didn't die of overheating...
Today I tried to replace the actual controller unit with a refurbished unit I bought off of ebay. Unfortunately, I had the same result with the new controller...No display at all, but all red lights light on the passenger side climate control. My thought is that the issue is much deeper than a vacuum line (although I haven't checked them yet) or even the controller unit. I've checked all the related fuses and they all seem to be fine. Could this be a computer issue? If so what is the fix?
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Recently my truck is only blowing heat or air conditioning on full blast in my 2004 Ford F-150 (New style, not heritage).
Level 1, 2, or 3 is exactly the same and blows almost nothing, then if I switch it to 4 it is full power.
I just don't know what exactly I will need to change. I know it would be a resistor pack somewhere that probably failed, I just don't know where it would be.
Do I just need a new control switch, or do I need a new heater fan?
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord coupe with 130K miles on it. A few days ago the AC started to make a loud roaring noise when it is turned on full blast. As you turn it down the noise gets quieter and when the fan is on low the roaring noise stops. Other than making this sound it is running fine and there are no other issues/noises coming from the car. What is causing this noise?
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Blower only works on high speed. From what I have read the problem is either the switch or the motor resistor. I am leaning toward the resistor which is behind the glove box. Where can I find directions for removing the Glove box?
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Fan blower will only run on high speed intermittently.
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