Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: A/C Turns On By Itself
Nov 17, 2012
I was riding today with the windows opened and I felt cold air coming out of the car's vents. I looked down and the A/C was turned on; I shut it. A minute later it turned back on by itself. This happened over and over again until I got home and turned off the engine. Of course, it's now 5 years old, with 58,000 miles on it, so out of warranty. Strangest thing I've ever seen.
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CEL goes on when its rainy outside. Code is injector 4 intermittent wiring fault. Ive tried spraying out the ECU and connectors with wd40 but nothing seems to work. Is there any typical location that suffers from water ingress?
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Sante Fe Gls and noticed that the A/C turns on randomly. Its frustrating that I have to turn it off and moments later it turns on again. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't duplicate the problem. What could be causing this?
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Like the title says, the engine turns over but it doesn't start. Sequence is something like this:
Turn key to on.
Wait until all the lights and gongs have stopped.
Turn to start for 3 to 4 seconds.
No start.
Turn everything off and repeat 1 to 3 times.
It starts.
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I've been having trouble with the stock radio in my 2011 SF. It randomly turns off, then turns back on by itself, 5 to 10 minutes later. It comes back on in whatever mode/ station it was on when it turned off. I've pressed every button, tried to insert a cd, and tried the steering wheel buttons. The USB power goes off too.
The station memories stay, so I don't think it's a power issue, at least at the fuse level. The battery is fairly new. I've cleaned the fuse and both ends of both ground wires in the engine bay. When I cleaned the fuse, I lost station memories, is there two fuses for the radio, perhaps? Or does the memory power and radio power split after the fuse box?
have a GPS and don't use Sirius/XM anymore. I've read part of the radio/ nav system sticky, wow, is it long.
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I purchased a 2008 Santa Fe this summer.
Since then, the ESC OFF light turns on a couple of minutes after turning on the engine and stays on. This occurs all of the time.
Occasionally, the radio will freeze up and I can't change the channel, adjust the volume or turn it off. It will work again if I turn off the engine and restart.
Two days ago, the horn stopped working. Is it possible that these are related problems?
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I have a 2010 Santa Fa GLS. 88K miles. This issue started in the last 6 months, once the engine turns over the RPM drop low and starts to putter as if it is not getting enough fuel. If push down the gas when starting it works. Once it passes the first 2 -3 seconds everything is fine. No issue idling or driving. What this could be? It's not an issue with Starter, Battery, my best guess would be a sensor, leaky fuel injector.
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I have a 2007 SF SE that seems to be having multiple electrical problems. In summary, the following are happening irregularly:
1) rear passenger door will not lock with the power lock button
2) front driver door will not lock with the power lock button
3) A/C turns on by itself at random times
4) Power gas latch release will not work
As I said before, these problems happen randomly and all the things listed above will work on occasions. I have not taken any steps to troubleshoot other than looked at the relays in the engine bay which seemed to be fine.
I know that some other posts mentioned the lock actuators for the lock problems. However, I think there might be an electrical problem since all the problems seem to be related. The car is not under warranty anymore.
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I noticed my Hyundai steering wheel was off centre about 20 degrees to the left so I took it in for an alignment. The toe was out and the inside left front tire was worn. The alignment is now spot on and I rotated the tires putting the slightly worn to the rear. When I accelerate now the steering wheel turns to the right. If I try to straighten the steering wheel while accelerating the vehicle veers sharply to the left. Odd is while accelerating it drives straight even-though the wheel is approximately 20 deg to the right now. When I let go of the gas and maintain constant speed the wheel straightens out by itself. When I first let go of the gas the vehicle will jerk to the right even though the wheel is straightening.
After this driving is ok - no pulling and drives straight. Only during harder acceleration does the wheel turn. I've had the Sante Fe since new and this is really off now. Has 170K km (100K mi). I know it is torgue steer due to some worn part or bushing but have not been able to diagnose easily. I replaced the lower tie-rod ends. Steering feels tighter but the bad torgue steer is still there. I am inclined to replace the lower control arm vertical and horizontal bushings. Ball joints seem ok when testing with pry-bar. I brought it back to the alignment shop and they verified the alignment was ok, everything was tight and could not identify any obvious issues with the suspension or steering components.
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I just installed new front brakes and rotors on my 2004 2.7L AWD, and since then the brake warning light on the dash comes on occasionally. Typically, it will turn on when applying the brakes. Usually for a longer period of time to a stop. (Rolling up to a stop sign/stop light, rather than slowing down for a turn). It will either stay on for about 15 seconds or not go off until I hit the brakes again. My e-brake handle is all the way down.
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We just swapped engines on a 2014 Santa Fe Sport but it won't start now. Old engine had 70k miles, new one has 25 k miles. Wondering if the swap could have tripped a fuel shutoff switch or something simple. Its not throwing any codes, but I think it has to run first before it would give a reading. Turns over but wont start. Previous engine ran but had internal lower engine problems and metal in the oil. There is plenty of spark but it doesn't seem to be getting fuel. We hear the fuel pump prime so we know that works.
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I've looked through all the settings on both the phone and the car and can't seem to find anything. My phone is connected to the Bluetooth system and I am able to use it fine. Only issue I have is that when I get in the car my phone automatically turns to vibrate mode if I get a call or text even though I have it set to "Loud". This is fine for a call because the radio will stop and the ringing notification turns on but not fine for when I am receiving a text. I do not hear the vibration and no sound comes from the car to notify me on an incoming text. Can this be changed to have the phone make normal notification noises even though I am in the car?
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New post for a better problem. It was a hot day today in vegas, but my santa fe was running at normal temp (I double checked with my analyzer), running great. When I got home I turned the key off and took it out of the ignition, all the electrics went out (lights, gauges, etc.) yet the car was still running. It took about 5 seconds or so for it to wind down and stop.
2001 Santa Fe, 2.7ltr, 120,000 mi., 2 wheel drive, great shape, no codes.
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic. I recently changed out the automatic transmission (transaxle) as the old one had died. Now the starter motor plunger is not disengaging quick enough on start up and a screaming noise is made as flywheel turns as engine first turns over. I have just put a new starter motor in with exactly the same (screaming) result. The flywheel looks to be in reasonable condition as I inspected it when being put in, no teeth mangled and all teeth there. The transmission replacement was from a wrecked vehicle, I was told from same model vehicle but maybe a 2003 Santa Fe.
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2013 SF Limited AWD = long base, 41K miles
Slow speed sharp turns left and right taking off from a stop I hear a thumping/light popping in the driveline. Seems like it could be a differential issue?
I also hear an unusual noise while accelerating in a straight line.....under throttle from a stop, it sounds like a rapid chirp on and off, every other second. Almost like a valve tick. The noise is heard under acceleration in gear, not when cruising at light throttle. I put the transmission in neutral while rolling, revved up the engine and the noise is not heard. Only happens when in gear and accelerating.
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I replaced blower switch last year a couple of years ago. I recently starting to get clicking noise from blower relay, and fan turns off then comes back on.
Question:
1- Problem more likely to be from the relay or the fan switch? Should I just replace the relay?
2- I can see and touch the fan relay, but how do I get to it to replace it? What dis-assembly is required?
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My daughter's 2004 Santa Fe (2.4L standard transmission) is making strange noises on start up which I think is due to a power steering issue as the noise is greater when she turns the wheel while stationary or when driving for the first 5 minutes or so until it warms up.
She came over tonight I she is about an 1 to 1.5" below the MINIMUM line on the Power Steering Reservoir.
Is there any special or proprietary Power Steering Fluid I need to be buying or what should I be buying to top this up?
I know there has been much discussion on using only Hyundai automatic transmission fluid over the years, but in this case it's for the power steering?
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Got an issues with my 02 Santa Fe. Shaky steering wheel at all speeds during straight driving more than in turns. 130k miles on the vehicle.
The tires are worn, and need replacing. No missing wheel weights that I saw. No issues with braking.
At slow speeds it feels like the front end is swaying back and forth. I am planning to have the tires replaced, but I feel that this is more than just the tires.
I suspect ball joints / tie rods are the culprit. Is there a good way to check these components from home verses going to a shop and having them diagnose the issue.
With ball joints / tie rods, I am confident that I can change them on my own.
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I own a Canadian 2013 Santa Fe sport AWD 2.0l turbo. Back in June/ July 2015 I noticed a poping / grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle when ever I made sharp turns under moderate acceleration. I brought my car into the dealer as it was still under warranty. They diagnosed the problem to be my viscous coupler apparently it was defective.
The part was ordered and replaced about 3 weeks later. After the warranty work was completed in still noticed a noise coming from the back end. I took my car back to the dealer. They found that the rear tires were "cupped" they recommended to get a 4 wheel alignment to solve the cupping issue.
In my past experiences tire cupping is usually caused by a worn out suspension component such as bad shocks. So to avoid conflict of interest I took my car to Canadian Tire to get the alignment checked and adjusted.
Sure enough the front wheels only were slightly out of alignment and a minor adjustment was made. No adjustments made to the rear. The technician advised me that due to the minor adjustment, the alignment would not cause my rear wheels to cup. The complete suspension was checked and no problems were found.
So...would a bad viscous coupler cause wheel cupping???
My Santa Fe had 48000kms at the time of the original noise was detected.
I do not tow a trailer or haul overloaded loads.
The majority of kilometres made Is done on highway.
The rear tires have now been rotated to the front.
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My 07 Camry, 2.4 decided one morning not to start. Was fine when parked. I have changed the fuel pump and replaced the spark plugs and still nothing. Where to look next. It does turn over so I assumed it was either fuel or spark.
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We have a 2007 Certified Pre-Owned Hyundai Elantra that overall we're quite happy with. Several weeks ago, the engine light came on, and after a nightmarish week (the shop put in a faulty O2 sensor, although we didn't know it at the time - the engine light just kept coming back on. Took it to dealer, who I prefer not to go to -- it's far, for one thing -- and they said the O2 sensor was faulty. Dealer replaced it, got my money back from the shop, and no more engine light).
HOWEVER, the exact same day that the engine light came on for the very first time, it took me several tries to turn on the car. This happens sporadically, and it's taken up to 6 tries to start the car. (No stalling, though). My wife has had no problems at all with her key, although she drives the car somewhat less than I do, but not by much. She thinks it might have something to do with my key. I think it's related to the O2 sensor, although that issue is now fixed (I hope) and I'm still having trouble starting the car.
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