I have a 2009 Sante Fe, it has about 96000KM on it. It is a 3.3 engine AWD.
I find that when I accelerate the thing kind of feels rough. It is very subtle. Like you can almost miss it if I wasn't being so picky. But I can definitely feel something there. What this would be.
Experienced sluggish acceleration with their "09" Santa Fe. I have the 2.7 liter 6 cyl. engine and it seems so sluggish when accelerating. I have replaced all the plugs with some best rated ones specific to my model. I have tried one of the best rated fuel system cleaners. It still seems to have no pep, my daughter's 1999 Honda has far more get up and go.
View 7 RepliesI own a 2007 Hyundai santa fe. Whenever I add fuel to the gas tank, be it 5gal-10gal or filled the engine will run real rough for 3-4 minutes after doing so. All other times the engine runs fine. This only happens when I add fuel to the tank.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought an '09 Santa Fe Limited. I want to love the vehicle, but I've got a problem with how it drives. Basically, here are the symptoms:
1. Engine RMPs dance around about 200 RPMs at idle. (I was told this is normal. I don't think it should be.)
2. Under normal acceleration, it bogs down immediately after shifting into 2nd gear and after a couple of seconds there is a surge and acceleration seems "normal."
3. Occasionally, I feel subtle fluctuations or surges in the engine under both acceleration and/or cruising speed (any speed, really.) It's like I'm feathering the throttle when I know I'm not. This is most pronounced when under a load, such as taking off from a stop sign at the bottom of a hill and accelerating up the hill.
So, here's what the dealer has done to address the issue.
1. According to the Carfax report, the previous owner had the throttle position sensor replaced at 22,000 miles and again at 27,000 miles. I bought the vehicle with just over 30,000 miles (certified pre-owned).
2. On the day that I bought the vehicle, I noticed the issue and the service manager took it for a test drive with me. He told me it was wind buffeting that I was feeling. I thought that was bunk, but with it being a higher profile vehicle, it put some doubt in my mind. He went ahead and flashed something to reset the adaptive learning module that supposedly adjusts something in the engine based on how you drive. It seemed better after that, so I went ahead and bought it.
3. After a few weeks of driving it, it became clear to me that it was definitely not wind buffeting, so I scheduled a service appt. It was taken for an "extensive" test drive (according to the service record) with a diagnostic computer connected. Apparently, the service technician said they were only able to find one small blip with the mass airflow sensor, so they replaced it and called it fixed. I should also note that at no time, have any codes ever shown up when they check for error codes.
4. Although it seem slightly better, the problem still exists. Just for kicks, I dumped a bottle of Seafoam in the gas tank with my last fill up, but that doesn't seem to have made any difference.
I have an 07 with the 3.3L and on start up the engine runs really rough and while driving when warm it keeps losing power with a regular rhythm. It almost feels like and injector or ign coil is dropping out. I have no CEL and have recently changed the spark plugs and rear upper O2 sensor.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2008 Santa Fe 2,2 CRDi that recently started to behave bad. When cold it starts but runs only for a few seconds before it dies. The engine seems to shut off without any notice. I am able to start the car again straight away, but the same thing happens.
If I try to push the throttle I might be able to keep it running for a longer while, and it seems to improve as the engine gets warmer, but it still dies after a while. (Some minutes.) When running, the engine feels kind of rough (hard) and not a smooth as its supposed to be.
I have cleaned the EGR valve, and replaced all the injectors. I also checked the diesel filter for water and flow, but didn't replaced as it was changed this summer.
The car is a no runner as it is now, since the uncontrolled shutdown of the engine makes it danger to use in the traffic.
Here's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
My 2011 6-speed automatic AWD santa fe was in a front end collision (T-boned a car that pulled out into the road then stopped) but was still drivable, just bumper damage. About a week later while waiting on the front bumper to come in, the starter died mechanically (of course, no relation, according to the shop and insurance adjuster since even though the starter is about 12" behind the point of impact, there was no undercarriage damage, ie, not related to accident). So when they got the part in, they replaced the bumper and the starter.
When I picked up the car from the shop, the check engine light came on when I got out on the road. On the road, the car had almost no acceleration. The engine RPM went up, almost to 7k but the car was moving slowly. This was on the on-ramp of the freeway and very disconcerting. It did make it up to about 40mph initially and then on the slight incline, took me about 30 seconds to make it to 60mph. I got off the freeway and pulled into an Oreilly auto and had them read the code. It came across as the phantom P200A (something about MAF sensor but usually not a true error in this make/model). I called the dealership, took it back. The guy looked at it while I waited, brought it around, said it was fixed, just had to have a code cleared and the check engine light went out. His experience was simply driving it in first, maybe second gear in the lot. He said it was the ECM, and this was typical as it had the battery disconnected for a couple days, the ECM needed to "relearn" the controls. He said give it a few weeks and it would be fine.
I got it out on the road, no more check engine light, but the acceleration/rev situation was still present. It has been a month, and it hasn't gotten better or worse. I can drive the 6-speed in auto around town, though it shifts higher, around 4k RPM if I am at all accelerating, or on even a slight incline. I can put the pedal to the floor while driving in auto, and it drops out of gear and into neutral, at least the way it feels, revs up, would red-line if i didn't come off the gas, but never accelerates, it acts like it drops into neutral. If I am driving with the car in manual shifting mode and choose where I want it to shift, it shifts fine, doesn't feel like it drops to neutral, however I can floor the pedal and it still only slowly accelerates, especially on an incline. It seems to bog down around 40mph or so, and take forever to get above that. Downshifting manually raises the RPM as expected, but no increase in acceleration.
Now I have a check engine light on again, and am taking the car back to the repair shop this week without clearing the light so maybe they can see something else that may have cleared at the auto part store last time. Basically, I have read multiple causes/symptoms which partially match this, but nothing exactly.
1. Limp home mode on ECM
2. Throttle position sensor
3. MAF sensor (or whatever the 2011 Santa Fe has equivalent)
4. TCM (Transmission Control Module)
There was absolutely nothing wrong with the car before the wreck, then the starter. No shifting/idling issues. I am wondering what a repair shop replacing a bumper and transmission could have done, that would create this problem. The transmission couldn't have died between working fine, won't start, and here, your starter and bumper are fixed but the tranny is FUBAR. I am thinking it absolutely HAS to be a sensor or computer controller of some sort, but not much on the web showing which sensors are which and where they are in a 2011 Santa Fe.
I believe the MAF/throttle body has to be removed to get to the starter (directly below it if I am not mistaken). One last thing, it is an AWD... it was towed from my house to the dealership with all 4 wheels up, as required for a AWD vehicle. If the shop pulled it from the lot to the garage, a few hundred feet at most, with 2 wheels up and 2 down, could that cause all this?
2007 Sonata V6. He's spent many hours and a good chunk of change at the dealership trying to get it fixed and nothing has worked yet. They honestly have no clue whats wrong which kinda scares me.
First off here is his problem. Occasionally when he starts the car it will idle very rough and struggles to accelerate to 30-40mph. When this happens he pulls over and shuts the car off for a few minutes then it will run fine again. When all of this happens there is no CEL or any light at all that flashes or comes on the dash.
Here is a list of things that have been replaced
Fuel pump
Throttle position sensor
Crank sensor
Plugs, wires and coil pack
My 07 Santa Fe 3.3 has had a 10% drop in mileage. When put the accelerator to the floor it takes forever to speed up. I feel like I have a 100 Hp engine.
View 6 RepliesWe purchased a new 2010 Santa Fe Limited in October of last year, and as it stands today, we've put about 19,000km's on the vehicle (about 12,000 miles for my American friends). About 14,000km's in, we started noticing a vibration from the rear under acceleration. When you reached cruising speed (regardless of the speed), the vibration would go away, but would appear under acceleration. What was more alarming was that at slow speeds when making sharp left-hand turns (turning into the driveway, doing a u-turn, pulling into a parking spot, etc), there would occasionally be a loud bang from the rear end. The first time it happened, we thought that we had run over something... actually not but it sure sounded like it!
We took the vehicle into the dealership, and after an inspection they found a rock in one of the rear springs. They removed the rock, applied the TSB to place covers over the springs, test-drove the vehicle, and said the issue was resolved.
The next morning, I was heading out of town to pick up a friend, and experienced a loud bang when I pulled into my buddies driveway. Problem was NOT solved. Called Hyundai again, and made another service appointment. This time with the requirement of having a tech come with me for a test drive.
I was able to reproduce the vibration, which really shocked the tech. At the same time, I was also able to duplicate the loud bang when making sharp turns (I had actually caused it to happen twice when driving around the dealership, but I was alone in the vehicle at the time!), when he concluded that there was probably some binding going on in the drive train. They took the vehicle in, and after looking at it, determined that the coupler in the drive train was defective, and needed to be replaced. They didn't have the part in stock, so they had to order it in; my concern was that the vehicle was unsafe, but they assured me it would be fine to drive until the part came in. I went on a weekend trip with the vehicle, and experienced some pretty severe binding when pulling into parking spots (no bangs, but imagine driving through a lake of molasses) - I had to really give it gas to get it moving into the parking spot - not nice, especially considering what might have happened had it 'unbound' while under throttle...it was certainly not safe, but I survived.
After THREE weeks, the part finally arrived, and was installed yesterday. I'm happy to announce that the vibration has ceased, and I can only assume that the loud bang is gone as well (although I couldn't duplicate that on demand, so I'll never know for sure that it's gone). The Tech did mention that it was a new version of the part, so they just didn't install a new part, it was an upgraded new part.
2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
When the vehicle is accelerated the light goes off. When I stop it comes back on, so it seems that the alternator is not charging when the vehicle idles. Could this be a bad belt or maybe the alternator. Charged the battery all night it has 12.40 volts, and is only 1 yr old. At idle the reading on the battery slowly starts dropping, then goes up when under acceleration.
View 19 RepliesMy company has a fleet of about 20 2007 GL AWD Santa Fe's. A few of them have had a strange problem....AWD, ESC, and check engine lights will turn on and they will lose acceleration of the vehicle. The dealership has said that it is a problem with the electronic throttle. Apparently it has been quite dangerous for some who have been driving at highway speeds and lost acceleration.
View 15 RepliesNoticed a whining noise upon acceleration, today. Noticed that it might be the power steering going. No sooner than I read this, and making a trip to my wife's graduation...Loss of power steering. What should I look for when I take it in, and tell them it's the power steering that is gone. Was reading about a potential correlation with having the rack and pinion replaced. That is something that was done about a year ago. Any real correlation? How bad is it to continue to drive without the power steering?
View 21 RepliesPower door locks are supposed to activate when the vehicle accelerates to a certain speed from starting the car but mine suddenly started clicking 4 times on-off-on-off every time the vehicle accelerates from every stop or near stop. It's been doing this for 2 weeks and is getting annoying in stop and go traffic.
I have clicked the lock switch on the driver's door to ensure that it works and is not stuck but not sure what else to check. I also made sure that all doors are closed correctly and no ice or snow in them.
2010 SantaFe w AWD
'07 FWD Santa Fe exhibits pretty loud "'gear whine" with light acceleration.
Recent ATF change got loads of nasty gook and metallic sludge out of trans.. but no change in gear whine.
Dumb question, but do 2wd Santy's have a differential that I can drain and refill to quieten this whine down a little?
We have a 2011 Santa Fe we got last October. We have had four different instances where the vehicle suddenly stalled out. The first was within a few weeks of purchase and was blamed on a loose battery negative post that prevented the battery from recharging correctly. When we called the dealership service department we were told that we were not driving it long enough to recharge the battery and that the battery light would go out once it recharged. Well all the lights went out when the car died going through an intersection at night with my wife at the wheel.
The second through fourth issue is that without warning there is a total loss of acceleration then the engine light comes on. The first time this happened my wife was able to steer off the road and after a few minutes was able to restart and drive the car home. I then drove the car about a mile when it happened to me. The car was towed to the dealership where they said there was a required software update. Really?? After that it drove fine for about a month then stalled when my wife was merging onto a freeway.
The dealership checked and found three active codes: P2106 Forced Limit Power, P2110 Force Limit RPM and P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range. They also checked TSB updates and found (12-FL-004) for ECM. They also called Tech Line and recommended change of Throttle Body Assembly. This is all under warrantly. We got the car back yesterday.
My 2012 Santa Fe AWD Limited whines, all the time, from the time I start it until the time I shut it off. It gets louder with acceleration. What is that?
View 11 RepliesI am the original owner of a 2012 Santa Fe 3.5 AWD Limited. Ever since Day One, the vehicle has had a very touchy accelerator pedal. Even with light and slow pedal pressure, the vehicle accelerates quickly from a stop. Is there any type of adjustment I can make to prevent the rapid acceleration? I was hoping to get used to it, but it still bugs me a little bit.
View 1 RepliesYesterday afternoon when driving back home from a weekend trip I noticed something that I never experienced before. I was climbing a long hill with 4 passengers, the A/C on and the engine under full throttle reaching 5k-6k before shifting from 3rd to 4th, I noticed the air coming out of the vents would get momentarily a bit warmer during this intense acceleration period and then once the revs would drop it would get cold as usual.
Is this the normal behavior of the A/C compressor? Does it get shut momentarily under heavy accel by the ECM? Or is it faulty and it requires a change. My Santa is pretty much new, it's a 2012 model with only 2000km!