Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2011 - Vibration With Moderate Acceleration And Only Sometimes
Jan 15, 2013
2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
So I just had the 10k service done on my GTI and after I got it back everything seemed fine. That is, until under moderate acceleration there was a weird buzz or vibration that came on around 2800-3400rpm coming from what I think is the engine bay or near the firewall on the passenger side. I was able to repeat the issue multiple times and it showed up every time. However, with the car at a stop and in neutral and revving it I can't make the problem occur only when under load, in gear, and traveling at speed. If I could describe it, it sounds like a playing card against bicycle spokes (for those of us who did that when we were kids)..
Anyways, I drove it straight back to the dealer and at that point had closed their service shop but they did do the right thing and give me a loaner car until they can look at it on Monday. How the heck could this pop up after a 10k service? What all do they do besides oil change, tire rotation, and fluid inspection?
I did pop the hood and one of the side of the fuel rail sounded louder than the other, I suspected that maybe one injector is starting to go and it seemed like an isolated noise but perhaps its not an injector at all. Nonetheless it seems this is a non-related issue..
View 6 Replies
Vehicle is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer with 123,000 miles. During moderate to hard acceleration in a straight line, especially in gears 1 to 3, the front of the car vibrates. The harder I accelerate, the worse the vibration gets. Once I get into 4th gear and get up to 40 MPH, I can put the pedal to the floor and while it will do it, it is very slight. Check engine light is off.
Interestingly, on the way to work there is a 25 MPH cloverleaf and coming out of the cloverleaf onto the highway, it did not do it until the wheels were pointed straight ahead.
Deceleration, even when aggressively downshifting, is vibration-free.
I do not believe it is ignition related - the car idles fine, has plenty of power under hard acceleration, and doesn't do it when going around that cloverleaf. (As a side note, about a year ago a plug wire went bad, leaving one cylinder with no spark. In this case the engine vibrated violently, but was obviously down on power.)
There are no strange noises in the front end. No clicking around corners typical with a failing constant velocity joint, and no mechanical thuds or sqweaks over bumps I'd expect from a failing ball joint or bushing.
I am having some unusual tire wear on the outside edges of the tires, like you would see with under-inflation, but tire pressure is fine. In my mind, this points to bad ball joints.
It still has the original constant velocity joints and axles as well as the original ball joints. The one motor mount I can see looks okay. I'm thinking in order of liklihood (most likely to least likely):
1) bad axle
2) bad ball joints
3) bad motor mount
Anything else I need to check? Wheel bearings? If I do replace the axles, I will replace the front wheel bearings while I'm in there.
View 4 Replies
We purchased a new 2010 Santa Fe Limited in October of last year, and as it stands today, we've put about 19,000km's on the vehicle (about 12,000 miles for my American friends). About 14,000km's in, we started noticing a vibration from the rear under acceleration. When you reached cruising speed (regardless of the speed), the vibration would go away, but would appear under acceleration. What was more alarming was that at slow speeds when making sharp left-hand turns (turning into the driveway, doing a u-turn, pulling into a parking spot, etc), there would occasionally be a loud bang from the rear end. The first time it happened, we thought that we had run over something... actually not but it sure sounded like it!
We took the vehicle into the dealership, and after an inspection they found a rock in one of the rear springs. They removed the rock, applied the TSB to place covers over the springs, test-drove the vehicle, and said the issue was resolved.
The next morning, I was heading out of town to pick up a friend, and experienced a loud bang when I pulled into my buddies driveway. Problem was NOT solved. Called Hyundai again, and made another service appointment. This time with the requirement of having a tech come with me for a test drive.
I was able to reproduce the vibration, which really shocked the tech. At the same time, I was also able to duplicate the loud bang when making sharp turns (I had actually caused it to happen twice when driving around the dealership, but I was alone in the vehicle at the time!), when he concluded that there was probably some binding going on in the drive train. They took the vehicle in, and after looking at it, determined that the coupler in the drive train was defective, and needed to be replaced. They didn't have the part in stock, so they had to order it in; my concern was that the vehicle was unsafe, but they assured me it would be fine to drive until the part came in. I went on a weekend trip with the vehicle, and experienced some pretty severe binding when pulling into parking spots (no bangs, but imagine driving through a lake of molasses) - I had to really give it gas to get it moving into the parking spot - not nice, especially considering what might have happened had it 'unbound' while under throttle...it was certainly not safe, but I survived.
After THREE weeks, the part finally arrived, and was installed yesterday. I'm happy to announce that the vibration has ceased, and I can only assume that the loud bang is gone as well (although I couldn't duplicate that on demand, so I'll never know for sure that it's gone). The Tech did mention that it was a new version of the part, so they just didn't install a new part, it was an upgraded new part.
View 26 Replies
I own a Canadian 2013 Santa Fe sport AWD 2.0l turbo. Back in June/ July 2015 I noticed a poping / grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle when ever I made sharp turns under moderate acceleration. I brought my car into the dealer as it was still under warranty. They diagnosed the problem to be my viscous coupler apparently it was defective.
The part was ordered and replaced about 3 weeks later. After the warranty work was completed in still noticed a noise coming from the back end. I took my car back to the dealer. They found that the rear tires were "cupped" they recommended to get a 4 wheel alignment to solve the cupping issue.
In my past experiences tire cupping is usually caused by a worn out suspension component such as bad shocks. So to avoid conflict of interest I took my car to Canadian Tire to get the alignment checked and adjusted.
Sure enough the front wheels only were slightly out of alignment and a minor adjustment was made. No adjustments made to the rear. The technician advised me that due to the minor adjustment, the alignment would not cause my rear wheels to cup. The complete suspension was checked and no problems were found.
So...would a bad viscous coupler cause wheel cupping???
My Santa Fe had 48000kms at the time of the original noise was detected.
I do not tow a trailer or haul overloaded loads.
The majority of kilometres made Is done on highway.
The rear tires have now been rotated to the front.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2007 Camry SE V6. Under moderate to hard acceleration, it sounds like a deep throaty sound coming from where the intake/throttle body is located, almost as if I have a SRI, but I do not. I checked for anything loose, hoses, airbox, etc. Then checked the intake resonator below and to the left of the battery, all seemed normal. Everything seems normal! Only happens when I push the accelerator a little more than usual, for example, when I go on the highway.
View 6 Replies
We have a 2011 Santa Fe we got last October. We have had four different instances where the vehicle suddenly stalled out. The first was within a few weeks of purchase and was blamed on a loose battery negative post that prevented the battery from recharging correctly. When we called the dealership service department we were told that we were not driving it long enough to recharge the battery and that the battery light would go out once it recharged. Well all the lights went out when the car died going through an intersection at night with my wife at the wheel.
The second through fourth issue is that without warning there is a total loss of acceleration then the engine light comes on. The first time this happened my wife was able to steer off the road and after a few minutes was able to restart and drive the car home. I then drove the car about a mile when it happened to me. The car was towed to the dealership where they said there was a required software update. Really?? After that it drove fine for about a month then stalled when my wife was merging onto a freeway.
The dealership checked and found three active codes: P2106 Forced Limit Power, P2110 Force Limit RPM and P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range. They also checked TSB updates and found (12-FL-004) for ECM. They also called Tech Line and recommended change of Throttle Body Assembly. This is all under warrantly. We got the car back yesterday.
View 5 Replies
I am having problems with vibration on my 2011 Santa Fe 2.2 CRDi Premium, 95% of the time the car is fine, but twice now in the last month, out of nowhere, I can be driving along as standard and all the sudden a vibration will hit the whole car out of nowhere, it almost feels as if there is a bleb or defect on one of the tyres, the whole car shakes, but the shake is not coming through the steering wheel, it is the car body that seems to be shaking, if that makes any sense... However, if I pull over, turn off the engine, restart it, and pull away the vibration immediately disappears???
I am totally lost, as it is a occasional occurrence I can not replicate it for the dealer to inspect as it is still under warranty...
View 2 Replies
4 months ago we bought a 2010 SF V6 with 70,000kms - we immediately noticed this very harsh 2-3 transmission sift under light to moderate throttle. Mostly in parking lots or accelerating slowly. Took it to the dealer and the flashed the ECU - - - this made the issue a little better.
I was reading around the net - the problem seems to be associated with sticky solenoids. I decided to change the fluid < 4 drain and fills > to Maxlife and I added a product from a company called Lubegard, this completely eliminated any harsh shifting at any speed or throttle.
I dont know if it was the additive or the 90% new fluid - however if the solenoids are the cause - keeping them properly lubricated seems like a good idea.
I will also be installing a Magnefine inline transmission filter as well. I have used them in the past with great results.
View 35 Replies
I'm new to Lexus ownership and have recently purchased an 08 certified LS 460 L with the air ride suspension. It's a phenomenal car, I'm now a convert to the brand. One small thing I noticed though is a slight jiggle or vibration coming to the steering wheel at moderate speeds. It is very dependent on the road surface, Seems to dissipate on the highway. Alignment was checked before delivery and feels fine and the tires themselves feel balanced. It's not upsetting, I'm just curious if this is something normal to the air ride suspension. Other than this the car is an absolute gem with only 35,000 miles.
View 4 Replies
I just bought a used 2004 3.5l automatic Santa Fe. The vibration is most noticeable from 35 - 40mph during acceleration and deceleration. It's there at higher speeds but the car doesn't physically vibrate as much.
The vibration is there with the car coasting and transmission in neutral. It's there with the car coasting and the motor off.
The tires and wheels have been swapped out with other wheels and tires. No change.
The front driveshaft U-joint has been replaced. No change.
It seems to be in the drivetrain somewhere. I would like to fix it without slowly replacing everything.
View 6 Replies
When I accelerate from a stop or turn left/right with my 2006 Santa Fe, I receive a vibration which feels like a sliding motion or skidding over rough pavement. Have just recently switched my tires from winter to summer and have had them balanced and aligned twice with no change in the problem.
View 2 Replies
Was back east this past weekend seeing some family. Went out with a friend of mine, who has lent me his 2011 DSG GTI APR Stage 1(car currently has 24k miles) many times in the past and it has always performed flawlessly.
We were out the other night and the car hesitated under moderate acceleration between 3500-4500rpm in second and third gears. It almost felt as though it was bucking a little, really odd. The hesitation comes in threes or fours, then moves on in the revs.
View 12 Replies
So, my 2004 with its constant tick is now "Missing", but only under moderate acceleration, between 1k and 2k rpms. i.e., : When in OD and wanting to gain a few MPH, but not drop down a gear. I have noticed it in OD and in 3rd. Feels like the engine stops for a split second, several times.
View 10 Replies
I have an 07 LE V6 with 76,000 miles. I am lowered on coilovers and have 20 inch wheels. so i have a small vibration while normal acceleration between 10-20 mph once i go past 20 mph it goes away. If I am accelerating heavy I feel the front vibrating all the way up until i let go of the gas. i can feel the pedal and steering wheel a lot and the whole car vibrates kinda hard.
I got new tires and replaced the pass side axle already. at first i thought it was the axle since the boot was leaking and i heard the clicking noise. I've even tried putting my stock wheels back on n i still feel it. I am going to lift the car up and try to find whats going on and what to look for under the car.
View 14 Replies
My 2010 III, not 3 or Three since it is a 2010, will brake loose the tires when wet with moderate acceleration. If i floor it it will alternate spinning right to left until I back off the throttle. I"m not really complaining since I had an 08 that would not spin a tire and could not be driven in snow. Just wondering if this is normal on a 2010.
I turned right with moderate acceleration on wet pavement today and the tyres broke loose and the car was headed for the curb. Oh the traction control light does come on when this happens but, no brake application or engine speed reduction.
View 17 Replies
I have an 04 V8 and have consistently noted a valve(?) clatter noise under moderate to hard acceleration. I mentioned it to my VW sales associate and he stated this is typical of this engine and that after warm up it should no longer occur. I hear the clatter at any time, warm or cold.
View 5 Replies
I've been told by my dealer that the 6-speed transmission in our rigs is known to shift roughly. They have therefore pronounced my truck healthy. However, I don't think I believe it. I've never seen a vehicle that lurched forward on upshifts under moderate acceleration. It behaves if I punch it. It behaves if I accelerate like my granny. Anything in between and I get a fairly violent jump at each shift point. At times, in stop-and-go traffice, I have thought the truck would jump into the car ahead of me. This behavior seems to be unrelated to which transmission mode I'm in. D, S, and Tip all do it. I love the motor in this thing, but I'm starting to hate the tranny. What should I tell the dealer to look for on the truck that might be causing this? The truck is going in next week to replace a fog light with condensation, so I'm hoping to get them to look at it then.
View 1 Replies
I've a little over 60k on my '12 Golf TDI and I think it's time to replace the brake rotors and pads (a lot of vibration and pulsing under moderate to heavy braking). I'm looking to replace front and rear rotors at the same time, but have a question about the rear rotor size:
Websites like Tirerack & Partsgeek give several options for the rear rotors - 256mm, 260mm and 272mm.
View 4 Replies
2012 gti, completely stock, 21,000 miles. Perfectly smooth ride right up to 69mph, then mild/moderate vibration in the steering wheel at 70+mph... figured it was an out of balance wheel up front, had the tires rotated, but still vibrates. I suppose ALL the wheels could be out of balance, but seems unlikely?? Will have the balance checked on all wheels...
View 18 Replies
I am original owner of a 2000 CRV, it's in really good shape and has been maintained by me on about 99% of all repairs it has 140k total. I have this thumping noise coming through the floorboard by my feet, under moderate acceleration and it goes away at just about any speed when you quit accelerating. Sounded like a bad halfshaft, I had already replaced one so I did the other side, got worse. So I replaced the one that had been in for just 2 years--no better. Asked the auto parts store for a recommendation and went to that shop, they balanced the tires, checked rotors and concluded I was buying junky rebuild half shafts. I had them replace the one they thought was bad with another rebuild, just as bad or worse...
I took home and put in both sides with new halfshafts, I also noticed some play in jackshaft bearing and replaced that as well....no better. Shop claims that a website they subscribe to says that 50% of aftermarket halfshafts for CRV are no good. But honestly we are 5 for 5 bad, last two were new from NAPA. Pulled things apart and checked wheel bearings left side was sticky so had machine shop press one into the knuckle, right side was done about 14 months ago. Also disconnected drive line and drove it as a 2 wheel drive vehicle....no better. Would a broken tire belt only make noise on acceleration or after a corner when you accelerate? Is this a possible indication of my transaxle going out? ---
View 15 Replies
