Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2011 - Total Loss Of Acceleration Without Warning And CEL Comes On
Sep 18, 2012
We have a 2011 Santa Fe we got last October. We have had four different instances where the vehicle suddenly stalled out. The first was within a few weeks of purchase and was blamed on a loose battery negative post that prevented the battery from recharging correctly. When we called the dealership service department we were told that we were not driving it long enough to recharge the battery and that the battery light would go out once it recharged. Well all the lights went out when the car died going through an intersection at night with my wife at the wheel.
The second through fourth issue is that without warning there is a total loss of acceleration then the engine light comes on. The first time this happened my wife was able to steer off the road and after a few minutes was able to restart and drive the car home. I then drove the car about a mile when it happened to me. The car was towed to the dealership where they said there was a required software update. Really?? After that it drove fine for about a month then stalled when my wife was merging onto a freeway.
The dealership checked and found three active codes: P2106 Forced Limit Power, P2110 Force Limit RPM and P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range. They also checked TSB updates and found (12-FL-004) for ECM. They also called Tech Line and recommended change of Throttle Body Assembly. This is all under warrantly. We got the car back yesterday.
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I drive a 2007 Prius, I just purchased it about four months ago. Today after filling up with gas I drove about 60 miles and suddenly three lights on my dash came on. The all system light (the red triangle), the check engine light as well as the VSC or VCS what ever way it goes, my electric batter was also low on charge having only one bar(my car is not a plug in, the battery is recharged by the engine) then the car lost all boost and while pressing on the gas it was not accelerating. I pulled over and put it in park so the battery could charge. It charged to half way, however the lights stayed on.
My car then started running really rough, I am still in park at this time. I put some gas stabilizer in my tank because I thought maybe I got some bad gas. I left my car sit for about five minutes before turning it back on. All the lights were off except my check engine and my car started running normal. Then about three minutes later all the lights came back on and the car started running jerky again. When I push the gas to move I can, however I've only gone about four feet because it is running so rough.
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My company has a fleet of about 20 2007 GL AWD Santa Fe's. A few of them have had a strange problem....AWD, ESC, and check engine lights will turn on and they will lose acceleration of the vehicle. The dealership has said that it is a problem with the electronic throttle. Apparently it has been quite dangerous for some who have been driving at highway speeds and lost acceleration.
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2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
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After installing new struts and springs, I have now lost power steering. The car was fine after the strut install, but after driving a bit, the power steering quit. Can this be related the install, or completely unrelated?
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Driving the 98 Passat this morning everything fine. Then total loss of power, give it any gas and it stumbles and almost dies. Idles fine, can rev it in park or nuetral. Starts and idles fine, give it gas and it starts to move thens just dies down. If leave foot on accelerator, will move at idle pace but stumble with no power whatsoever. No "check engine" light. DOn't have a VAG tester but do have OBDII. Haven't checked if any stored codes. Will an OBD code be stored an not light up the CEL?
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The other day I was driving down the 710 I-CA at around 80mph but as soon as I got on the east ramp for the 105 fwy I lost total power as the engine had just cut off and my check engine, battery, and oil lights went on so I came down the ramp in neutral. As soon as I stopped I popped the hood and saw that everything was ok I tried to restart the engine but it didn't work.
At the time the starter would crank the engine so I thought that the alternator was the problem. I had it towed home and changed the alternator but now when I try to start it all I get from it is a single crack from the starter and no crank. I tried to move the engine by hand and it wouldn't budge. I opened the engine thinking if could be that the timing chain broke but it is completely intact. My car is an 04 Toyota Matrix XR with a 1ZZ-FE engine....
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I noticed twice yesterday when I was accelerating from an intersection, going into 2nd gear (or 3rd depending on how short 1st is) it feels like it slips into neutral and I lose acceleration. If I take my foot off the gas and coast for a moment then re-apply acceleration, it goes on as normal without any problems.
66k miles... Owned it for 2 years and have had no other issues and have only taken it in for oil changes.
Am I correct in assuming the ATF is supposed to be good for the life of the vehicle?
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We have a 2002 Sante Fe with v6 and 270,000 km on it. Just had extreme loss of power and jerky acceleration from a stop. This has happened a few times in the past year and each time with a 1/4 tank of fuel? We pulled into a gas station, filled it up and away we go like nothing was wrong?
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I recently had the high and low pressure tubes on my power steering fail causing a total loss of fluid. After about a week of living with manual steering, I brought it in and had the tubing replaced. Everything worked fine, though the steering felt a bit sloppy to me. Today, on my way home from a 100 mile trip, the car decided that turning left just wasn't something it wanted to do.
So to turn left, I would have to back up and turn the wheels to the right. Not exactly an efficient way to drive in traffic. Do I try to get the car back into my mechanics place to see if he can fix it for a reasonable amount, or should just bite the bullet and look for a newer car? BTW when I had brought the car in for the tubing replacement, they showed me where the bracket holding the strut on the left had begun to crack, probably from driving without the power steering. 1998 Malibu LS ....
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1965 F100 300cid electrical drain...
I am attaching a link to my thread in the 1960's truck forum : [URL] .....
With my limited skill level, I have given up! It could very likely be something I am doing wrong with the diagnoses/troubleshooting.
Basically, When I turn the key to start the truck, I get a clicking solenoid at best and what appears to be a total loss of power. Not even the dome light will come on. The starter is new as is the solenoid.
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2009 LS460 I have had my car at the dealer a few times for loss of power on acceleration. The last visit which lasted three weeks finally gave a diagnoses. The problem was confirmed by the dealer and the factory reps, a knock sensor picks up a signal that retards the timing resulting in no power, I was nearly run over by a semi the last time it happened. They tried to give me my car back on 7/24/14 with the knowledge that the problem is not fixable at this time but I should drive the car and they will tell me when there is a fix. I left the car at the dealer. I was also told that they had a few others with the same problem that could not be fixed.
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I'm not sure whether it's real or even possible. Starting this summer, when it's hot and I turn on AC, I feel loss of power from the engine. When need for speed, it's slow to accelerate. The engine is less powerful than when it's cool and no AC running. Is this possible? It's 2010 V6 AWD.
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So, I experienced a brief loss of power steering yesterday that was rather startling, then today I hear about a recall on other models for the exact issue.
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The car started rough idling and a few weeks ago while driving "lost power" momentarily. I went to take a look at it and even just idling it will randomly drop 1000 rpm, or when the gas is one in P it does the same thing. also the dash lights dim at the same time.
I pulled these codes (below). I cleared the codes and tried to replicate with no luck. The car had been sitting in a parking lot outside for a few days and it has been -15C. I asked if it seemed to only happen when it was warm (the week before it was +10C) and they said yes. It has been another week (still cold) and the codes have not returned.
Quick google of these codes suggests maybe a throttle position sensor and/or loose battery connection.
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I am using a Hyundai Santa Fe (Petrol, 2011 Model) here in Saudi Arabia. On July 17 (11:30 pm), I was driving in a highway at about 80-90 kms/hr when suddenly my vehicle lost power (steering wheel, brake, etc).
Baed on the diagnosis of our company mechanic, it was an alternator problem. He said the alternator bearing got stuck up.
Prior to this incident, on July 7, the same vehicle got stalled twice while it's parked. In the first case, I was able to use it after jumpstarting. In the second case in the same day (4 hours after the first case), jump starting didn't work so they have to replace it with a temporary used battery. I noticed that I had a hard start (the engine responds only after 3-4 key ignition). After replacing the battery with new one, I was able to drive normally from July 9 to Jul 17, and then the incident happened as I described in the first paragraph.
Question: Is there a way to detect the alternator bearing problem before it actually breaks down? If there is, what procedure or predictive test is normally followed to identify potential problems in an alternator?
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Driving 30 mph, oil light came on, immediate loss of power braking and steering. Engine did not stop, oil light disappeared yet still had loss of power steering and brakes. Still in D. Policeman had to stand on brake pedal to get into Park so that engine could be turned off. Towed to dealer in next state and dealer said cannot replicate so cannot fix.
Car is 2012 Santa Fe w/ less than 6,000 miles on it.
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What's happening with my Santa Fe (3.5L AWD). In the past couple of weeks I'm seeing poorer fuel economy (about 15% worse) and the vehicle feels like it is down on power, especially in fifth gear. I mean, the vehicle works and some might not notice, but... There are no warning lights. Engine oil is slightly high (1/4 inch or less) and transmission oil appears to be correctly filled. Don't see leaks from this vehicle on the driveway.
I had an oil change about 3 weeks ago, at a Hyundai dealership, where I switched from regular to synthetic. I was told that no special procedure was required in making that switch, so none was done. About two weeks ago, the stereo system was dead one day. Would not turn on at all. In trying to troubleshoot I pulled the Audio and Radio fuses (there seemed to be three in the dash area), but they were fine and after I reinstalled them the radio worked again. Those are the only maintenance and other issues I've seen in months.
The vehicle has pretty new rear brakes and I don't feel unusual heat there. Could the switch over in oil types or electrical issue with the radio be related? I've done many hundreds of miles since both events.
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My wife has had her 2010 3.5 Santa Fe since new. Over the past year it's been having a clunk develop when accelerating, happening a few times from a start until highway speed. The clunks almost feel as if one is driving over bumps - that's what I thought at first. The power doesn't seem to be there anymore either. I have been driving her vehicle the past three years and it was fine when I first started driving it. But the past couple years I first noticed a problem and it seems it is getting progressively worse. My wife now notices it quite a bit too.
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When I start the engine it works fine while the motor is cold (idle normal all smooth). When the engine the temperature reach normal operating range the car loose power and idle drops to 350-500 rpm and if i am driving I can not go over 40mi/h. I drive a 2008 Sta Fe now with 96000 KM (~~60000 miles). A month ago the engine start shaking severely and knocking noise (like some spark plugs where not working), from this to now:
Changed all sparks plugs
Changed all ignition coils
Now this situation looks more related to temperature of the engine.
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My 2011 6-speed automatic AWD santa fe was in a front end collision (T-boned a car that pulled out into the road then stopped) but was still drivable, just bumper damage. About a week later while waiting on the front bumper to come in, the starter died mechanically (of course, no relation, according to the shop and insurance adjuster since even though the starter is about 12" behind the point of impact, there was no undercarriage damage, ie, not related to accident). So when they got the part in, they replaced the bumper and the starter.
When I picked up the car from the shop, the check engine light came on when I got out on the road. On the road, the car had almost no acceleration. The engine RPM went up, almost to 7k but the car was moving slowly. This was on the on-ramp of the freeway and very disconcerting. It did make it up to about 40mph initially and then on the slight incline, took me about 30 seconds to make it to 60mph. I got off the freeway and pulled into an Oreilly auto and had them read the code. It came across as the phantom P200A (something about MAF sensor but usually not a true error in this make/model). I called the dealership, took it back. The guy looked at it while I waited, brought it around, said it was fixed, just had to have a code cleared and the check engine light went out. His experience was simply driving it in first, maybe second gear in the lot. He said it was the ECM, and this was typical as it had the battery disconnected for a couple days, the ECM needed to "relearn" the controls. He said give it a few weeks and it would be fine.
I got it out on the road, no more check engine light, but the acceleration/rev situation was still present. It has been a month, and it hasn't gotten better or worse. I can drive the 6-speed in auto around town, though it shifts higher, around 4k RPM if I am at all accelerating, or on even a slight incline. I can put the pedal to the floor while driving in auto, and it drops out of gear and into neutral, at least the way it feels, revs up, would red-line if i didn't come off the gas, but never accelerates, it acts like it drops into neutral. If I am driving with the car in manual shifting mode and choose where I want it to shift, it shifts fine, doesn't feel like it drops to neutral, however I can floor the pedal and it still only slowly accelerates, especially on an incline. It seems to bog down around 40mph or so, and take forever to get above that. Downshifting manually raises the RPM as expected, but no increase in acceleration.
Now I have a check engine light on again, and am taking the car back to the repair shop this week without clearing the light so maybe they can see something else that may have cleared at the auto part store last time. Basically, I have read multiple causes/symptoms which partially match this, but nothing exactly.
1. Limp home mode on ECM
2. Throttle position sensor
3. MAF sensor (or whatever the 2011 Santa Fe has equivalent)
4. TCM (Transmission Control Module)
There was absolutely nothing wrong with the car before the wreck, then the starter. No shifting/idling issues. I am wondering what a repair shop replacing a bumper and transmission could have done, that would create this problem. The transmission couldn't have died between working fine, won't start, and here, your starter and bumper are fixed but the tranny is FUBAR. I am thinking it absolutely HAS to be a sensor or computer controller of some sort, but not much on the web showing which sensors are which and where they are in a 2011 Santa Fe.
I believe the MAF/throttle body has to be removed to get to the starter (directly below it if I am not mistaken). One last thing, it is an AWD... it was towed from my house to the dealership with all 4 wheels up, as required for a AWD vehicle. If the shop pulled it from the lot to the garage, a few hundred feet at most, with 2 wheels up and 2 down, could that cause all this?
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