Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2011 - Knocking Sound And Reduced Power
Aug 29, 2013
Last Saturday I had the oil changed at the dealer on my 2011 Santa Fe Limited V6 3.5. As I left the lot, I noticed knocking and reduced power. I went back in and they took it out for a drive and it was gone. The engine had been turned off and back on when before they went out. I went out with them again and it was gone.
Today I drove about 10 minutes, stopped and turned it off for about 10 minutes, and when I started it again and drove off, the knocking was back. It lasted about 5 minutes in stop and go driving. I might have been imagining it, but it didn't seem to completely recover until I turned off the engine and started it again (about 10 minutes in).
What can I do to narrow it down? I don't know what it is, but when I try to think what the symptoms are like, it's as though a cylinder is not firing. So far it has only happened twice and the first time right after an oil change. It has 50,000 miles on it if that's relevant.
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My car has less than 500 miles on it. Yesterday when I started it, I heard a knocking sound. I only put 87 octane gas in the car as the manual said 87 or higher. I don't know if I made a mistake putting 87 in there.
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Bought a 2011 Santa Fe in May. When I'm warming up the car, there is a banging or knocking sound coming from the passenger side wheel area (I think). The colder the outside temp, the louder the sound.
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I have a knocking sound from my D4EB engine (2008 Santa Fe. 120,000 miles)
Problem has been any diagnosis of the cause because the mechanics cannot agree. One has said top end and another bottom end. If it is top end when I think the consensus would be to get the present engine rebuilt. However, if bottom end then, because of the increased cost, the better option might be to replace with a reconditioned engine.
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Our 2009 Santa Fe has a knocking sound coming from the undercarriage of the vehicle. It cannot be heard when parked or when coasting. If I gently depress the gas pedal enough to rev the engine to 1500-2000 rpm when traveling at speeds of 35mph or greater it can be heard. The rate of the knocking / thumping appears to be related to vehicle speed, i.e., the faster we move, the higher the knocking rate.
Yesterday I emptied the vehicle of all contents and was still able to produce the sound upon demand.
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My 2007 Hyundia Santa Fe has an erratic knocking/clicking sound when idling & has for about 6 months or so. Other than the clicking noise it drives just fine. I am wondering if this may be a result of a bad oil change experience I had in 2012. I'll explain ....
When driving home, once the car had warmed up, my oil pressure warning light came on whenever I came to a stop or idling. I thought this was strange but thought maybe it had to do with new oil fill & would go away.
All I knew was I didn't have the problem before the oil change - nor have I ever in all the time I have owned the car - seen the oil pressure light come on and stay on once the car is started. So I brought the car into Hyundai as soon as I could to explain the situation. They opened the oil filter compartment and quickly realized that whoever changed the filter neglected to put back a part that sits on top of the filter that regulates the oil pressure (only a $15 part without which the damage & cost of driving without is potentially huge).
There is more, but I think you get the drift. So, I am wondering if possible damage as a result of that faulty oil change might have something to do with my current problem or is it not possible given the time/km between when that happened and now? The car had just over 80,000 km at the time and currently has aprox 105,000. I have properly maintained the oil etc since that as well as prior to.
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My 2008 Santa Fe (3.3 2WD) produces a knocking sound from the front every time I go on a bump while the wheel is turned. I can pretty much reproduce it at will. Occasionally, I hear the same sort knock from the rear as well, but I cannot confirm that it is consistent.
I do suspect that something is wrong with the struts. The only issue is that the car has 67k KM (41k miles), and to me, that seems a little early for that sort of thing to happen. My driving is pretty standard on standard roads, although winters up here tend to produce potholes that I sometimes cannot avoid.
I've had my struts fail on my last car (2000 Mazda Protege), but that was 9+ years old and with almost 3 times as much mileage on it.
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I have a 2012 Santa FE 2.4L, I have a knocking sound happening in my front passenger side once I go over bumps. Would like some info on the different parts that can cause this.
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6K mile 2011 Santa Fe Limited front wheel drive V6 and I am getting a humming/howling sound at 55+ MPH and it is very annoying, not too loud but there. It is really bad at 75+...
The tires were road forced balanced and a alignment was done by the dealer. The Rear was way out of align but they supposedly fixed it.
I do not get any kind of vibration in the body or steering wheel but the humming/howling sound is terrible. Almost like when you crack one of the rear windows and you get that pressure sound...
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L with about 108,000 kms (roughly 65,000 miles) that seems to have produced a bit of a whining sound from the engine. It will do it in park, or in gear, and the sound seems to increase slightly with an increase in RPMs.
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If you push the remote lock button twice the horn beep is very load and startling. Can this be programed for a lower volume sound?
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I have a 2011 Ford F250 6.7 Powerstroke. It has 107,000 miles on it.
The other day I was driving it down the highway and it got a Reduced Engine Power message on the dash. It lost power and I got off the highway to the service road. Then it died on me.
Had to get it pushed to a station then towed home. It wouldn't start. The starter cranks over for a few seconds but engine won't start. Checked all the fluid levels and batteries. My DEF fluid was only a half gallon low.
What I have noticed is that the DEF level indicator hasn't reminded me that it was low for over 4-5 months now. I had been putting in about 2-3 gallons every 3 months or so. But it hasn't reminded me lately and I just forgot. This is my first diesel.
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I have a 2011 6.7 F-350 Diesel. I bought the truck new and I've never had any problems with it until now. I have a SCT Chip & Tuner. It needed an update so I returned the truck to stock and a code came up on my dashboard that said "reduced engine power" which obviously I thought was Normal because of the modifications done to my truck.
I updated my tuner and returned the truck to a performance tune but this dashboard code will not go away. My truck isn't reading any codes and there's no other indication lights on. The truck has Normal RPM readings but 0 throttle response. No power at all...
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I have noticed with my 2011 Sonata that I am experiencing the reduced power and a bit of*rough*idling from the engine. I noticed an increase in performance after oil changes, then back to the same issues after about 1000 miles. I switched to a synthetic blend and started buying the best filter any of my local shops carry. I then ran some additives recommended and shifted to gas from Shell o However, I am still having the issue.
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I own a 2011 santa fe with approx 49,500 miles. in the past few weeks i have begun hearing a "whirring" (or more like a 'zzzzzzzzzz') noise when turning the steering wheel. I've taken it in to the dealership who tells me this noise is "normal".
This was hard for me to believe since it just started occurring in the past few weeks. I checked P/S fluid before taking to dealership and all was okay. also no leaks seen on garage floor.
Why this noise all of a sudden??
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2005 Santa Fe (88K, 2.7 V6).
For a month or two, after the car got warmed up, I'd hear a whine/hum noise when I slowed to turn or reduced speed. The noise was much more noticeable when the car had been running at least 15-20 minutes, but I did occasionally hear it when the car was somewhat cool still. Never had a problem steering during this time, even with the noise... but I eventually figured out that slowing down and/or turning brought it on. So I took it to a mechanic.
They showed me bubbles coming from the power steering reservoir, and said I needed a new PS pump and pressure hose, along with a flush/new fluid. I paid for all of that.
Next day: The car would become hard to turn when I made a tight turn into a parking spot... again, not a constant thing, but only when turning to park and going slow. The noise APPEARED to be gone, but this new issue worried me so I took it back. They put a different pump on (no charge), thinking the other may have been defective.
Next Day: I hear the whine again on my way home from work. When I get home, I park, leave it running, and pop the hood. There's a fast drip bubbling from beneath the reservoir cap and running down to the pavement. First thing the next morning I return to mechanic. He says the first two pumps were the same brand and both "remanufactured" so he switches to a different brand -- this one brand new, not "remanufactured" -- and installs that one.
A half hour later, I get home. Hearing that same whine/hum, I lift the hood. Fluid is pouring out from beneath the cap in a steady, unbroken stream (not a drip, but a stream). So I took it back to the mechanic (who to his credit, has charged me nothing since the initial new pump installation). What could cause the power steering fluid to gush out from the reservoir cap when the car gets hot? I have a brand new pump and pressure hose. What could cause this condition..
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I have a 2007 santa fe. In the last year or so, when you turn the key to start the car - you get nothing... Like it has no electrical power, no sound, etc. However, it has never lasted more than 1min to an hour it varies. There is nothing you can do about it, just try it a couple of times, come back and try it again. It has never not started eventually. About 95% of the time, it starts within 10 min after you start trying it. However every now and again it is 10 min to an hour or more. Sometimes it goes weeks without doing it (starts the first time) and then you get a string of everyday for weeks.
The dealer can't figure out whats wrong, they need it to stop working completely. I am an engineer and have not been able to find any correlation (cold weather vs hot), not driving it for a while, turning off ac, lights, radio, using a different key. Also, during this time the battery has been periodically tested and has tested out fine.
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So, I just had the fuel pump replaced on my '15 6.7 a month ago and it just died again. (next day edit: it didn't actually die, it showed all the same symptoms)
Same symptoms: whining sound, low fuel pressure warning, reduced power warning.
This time I'm 50 miles from home so I pulled off the road before it shut off. Interesting, I was in a hilly area and my low fuel warning came on too. We are waiting for a tow. I was considering trying to push on but don't want to get stuck in a dangerous spot on the highway. We're in a church parking lot.
So, last time this happened I was on flat road with about a half tank of fuel on a lunch break. I ran a mile after the warnings came on to feel out the issue and to see what would happen. I happened to be only about a mile away from my dealer so I drove that way. I got reduced power warning and then it cut power on me (limp mode). I made it to about 100 yards away before it cut off.
This time, I was in a hilly area at night on a windy two lane road with no shoulders in the woods. I was miles from civilization and was showing below a quarter tank of fuel. ~100 miles to EMPTY. I got the low fuel pressure warning first and then the reduced power mode before the whining noise started. I was climbing a hill on a curve at the time. I drove a quarter mile and then pulled off the road into a parking lot so I wouldn't be stuck on the shoulder. It didn't actually go into limp mode.
I let it sit a few minutes, talked it over with the wife and decided to call for a tow. After talking to the tow truck driver who said he would be an hour because he had to go find a bigger truck, I decided to see what I could do while I wait. I fired it back up and the fuel level dropped to below 1/8 and I was now showing 33 miles to EMPTY. I was parked on a hill with the back end up. I had backed the truck into a space to make it easier for the tow truck driver. I let it run a minute, checked for leaks and it seemed to run fine with no studdering or additional warning lights.
CEL was on but no new warnings. I put in my code reader and pulled the P0087. Just one code. I revved it a bit to see if there were any issues. It seemed fine so I decided to try my luck. I started driving towards home with the intention to stop at the first diesel station to fill up. Truck ran fine. After two minutes of driving gently, heart racing, my fuel level came back up and it now read 88 miles to EMPTY. I drove 11 miles to the nearest station and filled up. No issues. I shut it down. I fired it back up. Still no issues so with a full tank, I drove home the remaining 30 miles without issue.
Planning to take it in to the dealer Monday to get it checked. Could this be from an air pocked due to low fuel level and hilly terrain? Is my new pump dying already? Is there something else going on inside the tank or elsewhere?
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I've got a 2011 Sonata GLS with 83k on it.
Last night I was driving and started to hear a repetitive knocking sound. Stopped to determine if it was only when moving but it continued in park.
Checked the oil and apparently there was very little of it.
Don't know how I screwed that up but the mechanic heard the engine for 1 second and said I need a full engine replacement.
So, yeah I am ticked off and need to take care of it.
The VIN qualifies for a replacement under the recall but I don't know how the dealership will feel about the present engine condition.
If that's not an option, where do I even begin to look for a replacement?
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I have a 2009 AWD Santa Fe with a little over 43K miles. Over the past few months it's developed a knocking noise that is most audible from the front drivers side area. The knocking speeds up or slows according to the car's speed, and appears somewhat louder when the steering wheel is turned. My initial suspicion from my surfing here is either a CV joint or wheel bearing.
I took it to the dealer that sold it to me and am getting increasingly frustrated with their work. The first irritation was yesterday when the service advisor called to say the problem was corroded rear rotors and brake pads; both wear items not covered under warranty. Though skeptical (since I was hearing the noise coming from up front, not from the back) I authorized the $300+ for turning the rotors, replacing brake pads and flushing the brake system.
When I showed up to retrieve the car I was told it'd been test driven and the problem was fixed. I asked the tech specifically whether he'd checked the CV joints and he assured me he had and they were fine. Upon driving away it was immediately obvious the knock was still there. Back to the dealer. I had the tech drive it with me in the passenger seat. He acknowledged he could now heard the knocking, but claimed he previously couldn't hear it over the horrible loud squealing from my rusted rotors; nor had he heard it on his alleged post-fix test drive. The problem with that is I've never heard this claimed horrible loud squealing, nor has my girlfriend, nor have any other regular passengers.
Back at the dealership the situation escalated when the service advisor, in defense of his tech, also claimed the horrible squealing rotors had drowned out any other noises. The problem with that is he admitted he'd not come along on any of the previous claimed test rides, and claimed to have heard the horrible squealing rotors only while the car was in the shop and/or up on the lift while the tech was turning a rear wheel by hand. Err, if the car was not driven any for distance or speed, of course you wouldn't have heard any knocking up front.
Yesterday evening I got a call from the shop advising the problem had now been diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing, front driver's side. I was assured it'd be fixed and ready this afternoon. All well and good. I showed up this afternoon and the service advisor stated the car was just getting buttoned up and we're going to test drive it. Fine, I'd like to come along on the test drive I said. He agreed, asked me to sit in the waiting room. In a few short minutes though - not long enough IMO - he came back out to advise the tech had just test driven the car (without me?!) and the knock is still there.
As of this writing I have no info from them as to what it might be. I left the car with them and asked the service advisor to have the tech(s) double check the CV joints. He got huffy with me and declared that if if the tech said he'd check them, there's no need to do so again. At this point I'm not sure whether I can trust this dealers' service department. I don't think the service advisor is being honest with me - I think he's been caught in a minor fib re: test riding and is compounding the situation by sticking with it.
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I have a 2011 xlt crew cab with the 5.0 v8.I have noticed a knocking sound at idle, it happens when the engine is cold or at operating temp. It doesn't do it all the time but more often than not.
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