Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2011 - Front Shock Failure At 42,000 KMs
Aug 4, 2013
This car is turning out to be a huge disappointment. Bad battery right away, oil pressure switch, brake lamp switch, front driver seat guide rails broken and now premature shock failure.
I had taken the SF to get a tire plugged after vacation as I had picked up a nail. The car was a bit noise riding along the way home, but I just chalked it up to crap Manitoba roads. The tech who fixed my tire showed me the oil leaking from both front shocks.
Told me that the driver side was pretty much 100% pooched. 2011 with only 42,000 KMs. On top of the other things this car has needed, I am ready to trade it in for a truck. A truck will meet our needs much better.
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My 2008 Santa Fe (3.3 2WD) produces a knocking sound from the front every time I go on a bump while the wheel is turned. I can pretty much reproduce it at will. Occasionally, I hear the same sort knock from the rear as well, but I cannot confirm that it is consistent.
I do suspect that something is wrong with the struts. The only issue is that the car has 67k KM (41k miles), and to me, that seems a little early for that sort of thing to happen. My driving is pretty standard on standard roads, although winters up here tend to produce potholes that I sometimes cannot avoid.
I've had my struts fail on my last car (2000 Mazda Protege), but that was 9+ years old and with almost 3 times as much mileage on it.
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We own not 1, but 2 2007 Passats. My wife's is a 2.0, mine is the 3.6. Both were purchased at the same time (4/07). Both have about 6000 miles on them. And both are going in for their first service at the end of this week.
I feel like what I'm experiencing with ride quality having deteriorated since the cars were new is happening in both cars. I don't know... maybe it's my imagination... but I don't think so.
I remember when the cars were new thinking that the ride was pretty sweet - very smooth, not jarring even over fairly rough road surfaces. I had just come out of an '05 Touareg V8 that I turned in early for the Passat (sold the boat; didn't need a tow vehicle any more and wanted better mileage - but loved the Touareg). Anyway I never really felt like the Touareg's ride degraded that much over the 30,000 miles I drove it.
But the way these Passats are riding right now is bothering me. My wife's car (the 2.0) is a bit worse than mine, I think. But I feel pretty sure what I'm talking about has happened (or worse yet, is perhaps still happening?) to both cars.
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Just took in my 2011 Santa Fe Limited for its 22,500 mile service (oil change). I was informed that it had an "oil leak under the front cover," and it needs to be fixed before it ruins the alternator. I will have to drop it off again for a whole day to have it fixed under warranty. The service rep also told me that this was not uncommon.
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My 2007 GMC Yukon Denali has 135K miles on it. While changing the spark plugs I noticed that the front shock appeared to be oozing oil (I removed the front wheels and wheel well covers to get at the spark plugs). Does this mean I should be thinking about new shocks? The truck appears to be riding fine.
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I went in to get my tires rotated and an alignment because I noticed one tire was wearing unevenly. I walked out with an estimate for $1250 to replace rear shocks that "failed", 3 tires that need replacing because of the shocks and an alignment. I have 92K miles on my Prius. Is it normal for shocks to wear out with 90K miles on them?
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The past two days my 2008 Santa Fe has been exhibiting power failure upon starting. When the ignition is switched on then to start all power is lost immediately with no start nor crank. I hear a metallic click seemingly too light a sound for a starter solenoid but since this has not happened before it could be a solenoid sound. All power is lost including dash and marker lights. After about 5 seconds or so the marker lights and dash will return and the car will start normally. I expect a circuit breaker is resetting. This has happened three starts in a row at least eight hours apart. This morning the dash clock was 8 or so hours behind but the car started normally. 62k on the car.
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At 37000km we put new tires on and after about 1000km started to hear a high 'woo-woo-woo', from the rear, not really loud but a new noise. Guessing it might be tire noise I checked them for wear and thought the left rear was a bit sharp sliding your hand one direction but smooth sliding across the other way. Went for an alignment....it was only slightly off and the mechanic found the right rear wheel bearing was kaput.
It was done under warranty......but, do these vehicles are subject to premature bearing failure or was this a fluke? I did not see the bearing so I don't know if it was one of two or a pressed-on type or whatever. It would be nice to know that a wheel won't come flying off or seize up when we're halfway to nowhere if a bearing goes bad again.
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe SE. Drove it the other day, vehicle sat for about 45 minutes, got back in and it would not crank. It had lights and power, but made no cranking sound when the key was turned. Tried to start it numerous times, waited 15 minutes to an hour then it started just fine. This has happened 3 times total. Each time the vehicle was driven for about 15 minutes then sat for awhile then would not start, but was able to start after waiting for awhile.
Brought it to a garage/mechanic who could not get the problem to repeat itself. He checked the battery hookups and looked it over, but did not see anything out of place. He did not hook it up for a diagnosis.
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I have a relatively decent standard of DIY mechanics, but I have never worked on a Hyundai before.
I have a leak coming down the drivers side rear shock absorber (the bit that bolts onto the swing arm) this has obviously resulted the the rear of the car riding low, but, is there something I can take apart and replace or do you have to replace the whole thing.
it seems likely that it could just be a seal broken somewhere.
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While we continue to enjoy our recently acquired Mineral Gray 2011 Santa Fe, I have noted a momentary engine noise upon startup after it has been shut down for say 2 hours or more.
The noise reminds me of having an oil filter with a malfunctioning or absent drain back valve where by the bearings will complain for 2-3 seconds until oil pressure rebuilds
The SF has but 20.7K miles on it to date. Do we know of this is usual for the V6, or should I be concerned and planning a dealer visit?
I love the power of the V6! We test drove a 4 cylinder model first thinking that was the way to go for economy reasons. I found this one with such low mileage, AWD, and the V6 at a great price so we jumped on it.
I am a little disappointed though that the AWD does not function "full time" like that on my 04 Dodge Durango. The SF runs rings around the Durango in the mpg department though.
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6K mile 2011 Santa Fe Limited front wheel drive V6 and I am getting a humming/howling sound at 55+ MPH and it is very annoying, not too loud but there. It is really bad at 75+...
The tires were road forced balanced and a alignment was done by the dealer. The Rear was way out of align but they supposedly fixed it.
I do not get any kind of vibration in the body or steering wheel but the humming/howling sound is terrible. Almost like when you crack one of the rear windows and you get that pressure sound...
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The vehicle has 80,000kms, and from a cold start it is having this problem more and more frequently. I must crank the engine 3+ times, and then she starts. A prolonged cranking period doesn't seem to work, and this only occurs when cold. The car starts fine when warmed up. I have scanned the car with a generic OBD2 reader and there are no codes. Once the car is running, it runs great with no misfires.
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I drive a 2011 Limited. Three out of the past four mornings the car has been reluctant to start. It is cold out, but not super cold. This morning it was 1C (34F).
When I turn the key, it cranks but does not fire. I Held the key for what felt like forever, but in reality it was probably only 6 seconds. I let go of the key, waited a few moments and then tried again. After the third try, it finally fired and ran normally. It didn't stutter or otherwise seem to have any problems.
At this point I went inside and found my basic scan tool. No codes were stored and the voltage was between 13.5v and 14.6v. After I drove to work, I turned it off. The voltage dropped to 12.1v. When I cranked it again at work, I saw the voltage drop to 9.5v for a second before it fired up and jumped to 13.5v, then 14.6v.
The car has the original battery. Could it be as simple as a battery? Oh, I Just remembered, when the car did start, the radio was off. Upon turning it on, it was reset to defaults. Other than this starting issue that has only recently started, pun intended, and the radio I am having no other issues with the car.
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My New (weeks old) 2011 SF GL V6 speedometer reading is way to high. I've confirmed this with my GPS. My last 2 cars were Honda`s - one with a digital speedo (Civic) amd they were both bang on with the GPS.
So, my issue is why is the speedo so far out - 10%. I have to drive 110 km/h for a 100km/h on the GPS. On the positive side - I'll never get a speeding ticket.
But to all of you that claim to drive at 75mph and get 25mpg - I'm guessing your really traveling way slower. What can be done. In this day and age a calibrated speedometer isn't asking for much.
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L with about 108,000 kms (roughly 65,000 miles) that seems to have produced a bit of a whining sound from the engine. It will do it in park, or in gear, and the sound seems to increase slightly with an increase in RPMs.
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My 2011 Santa Fe stalled while I was going 60 mph on a major freeway at 10:30 pm. It was very dangerous and scary, but I was able to pull off to the side of the road and get towed to safety. The "malfunction light" came on and the dealership said it had a code of PO638. They were aware of the problem and performed a software upgrade.
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Just bought a used 2011 SF GLS and the interior lights weren't coming on. I engaged the "door" button on the back seat dome light and they now come on as they should when the doors are opened or closed. BUT I can't get the front map lights to come on at all when the door opens. Engaging the "door" button for the map lights doesn't do it.
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My sister has a 2011 Santa Fe that was making some noise so she had it looked at at a local Monroe, which then said that the Alternator Pulley is loose. I haven't had the chance to look at the car myself, but in this case, would it be possible to replace just the pulley? Or will I have to replace the whole alternator?
The guys from Monroe said the alternator will have to be replaced as a whole. But from pictures I'm seeing online, it looks like the pulley is held by a 6-point nut, with a torx screw in between to counter hold the rotation. I can also see some listings on eBay for just the pulley. So I'm thinking I could start off by tightening the nut or replace the pulley if it's dented or off shape. Will I have to replace the whole alternator?
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2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
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My car has less than 500 miles on it. Yesterday when I started it, I heard a knocking sound. I only put 87 octane gas in the car as the manual said 87 or higher. I don't know if I made a mistake putting 87 in there.
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