Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2011 - Alternator Pulley Loose
Jul 1, 2015
My sister has a 2011 Santa Fe that was making some noise so she had it looked at at a local Monroe, which then said that the Alternator Pulley is loose. I haven't had the chance to look at the car myself, but in this case, would it be possible to replace just the pulley? Or will I have to replace the whole alternator?
The guys from Monroe said the alternator will have to be replaced as a whole. But from pictures I'm seeing online, it looks like the pulley is held by a 6-point nut, with a torx screw in between to counter hold the rotation. I can also see some listings on eBay for just the pulley. So I'm thinking I could start off by tightening the nut or replace the pulley if it's dented or off shape. Will I have to replace the whole alternator?
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My Ex is missing the label showing the serpentine belt routing diagram. I pulled one off the Autozone website for V10 with AC. It showed that there are 2 idler pulleys (one on the left and right side of the alternator). It also has the tensioner pulley.
I only have a tensioner on the left side of the alternator. The one on the right is missing. There appears to be a threaded hole where a pulley should go. Since I bought this used, I thought the previous owner took it off.
I used the bolt from the old tensioner pulley I replaced for the hardware and put a new pulley on.
I also looked at other V10s on used car lots and none of them had the pulley to the right of the alternator. Should there be one there?
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2004 F-150 XLT.... What the thread size and pitch are on the alternator pulley nut? Cant find a replacement nut anywhere and lost the original!
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited with 82000 miles. I have replaced four (4) batteries since it was purchased, new, in March, 2010. I have repeatedly taken it to the Hyundai dealerships in Las Vegas, Nevada and Centennial, Colorado, for an oil leak on the valve cover over the alternator. At no time has the service technicians at the dealerships ever told me there was problem. Last Thursday, the latest new battery, installed that same day, failed. I had my independent garage technician assess the multiple battery failures, with the associated battery display light illumination, related to the location of the continual oil leak. He stated that the cause of the battery failures was from the oil damaging the alternator. I contacted Hyundai Customer Service, today, and was told that there have no reported problems from oil leakage onto the alternator, with subsequent damage to it, and/or the battery.
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When the vehicle is accelerated the light goes off. When I stop it comes back on, so it seems that the alternator is not charging when the vehicle idles. Could this be a bad belt or maybe the alternator. Charged the battery all night it has 12.40 volts, and is only 1 yr old. At idle the reading on the battery slowly starts dropping, then goes up when under acceleration.
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The nut that holds the pulley in place on the alternator has fallen off, causing the pulley to become loose and now the serpentine belt will not stay on. What is the size and thread type for the nut that I need to replace?
Alternator Pulley Nut for 2004 Camry 4cyl
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe CRD+ with integrated roof rails and roof rack. The roof rails have started to come quite loose - is there a simple way to tighten them? Or is this a main dealer job? I am worried about damaging the trim and there are no obvious bolts, screws etc to be seen
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Last night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
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Having issue with a moon roof rattle in the up position, sounds as if the glass is loose. If I slightly close the rattle stops. Not sure if I want lexus taking apart the moon roof/ head liner to repair. I may just live with it, but would like to get it looked at. 2011 LS 460 sport.
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One of my belts squeaks. I've tightened one of them as far as it goes I think. The other one is the one with the alternator. Do I tighten the pulley bolt on the alternator to add tension to that one?
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe SE. Drove it the other day, vehicle sat for about 45 minutes, got back in and it would not crank. It had lights and power, but made no cranking sound when the key was turned. Tried to start it numerous times, waited 15 minutes to an hour then it started just fine. This has happened 3 times total. Each time the vehicle was driven for about 15 minutes then sat for awhile then would not start, but was able to start after waiting for awhile.
Brought it to a garage/mechanic who could not get the problem to repeat itself. He checked the battery hookups and looked it over, but did not see anything out of place. He did not hook it up for a diagnosis.
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While we continue to enjoy our recently acquired Mineral Gray 2011 Santa Fe, I have noted a momentary engine noise upon startup after it has been shut down for say 2 hours or more.
The noise reminds me of having an oil filter with a malfunctioning or absent drain back valve where by the bearings will complain for 2-3 seconds until oil pressure rebuilds
The SF has but 20.7K miles on it to date. Do we know of this is usual for the V6, or should I be concerned and planning a dealer visit?
I love the power of the V6! We test drove a 4 cylinder model first thinking that was the way to go for economy reasons. I found this one with such low mileage, AWD, and the V6 at a great price so we jumped on it.
I am a little disappointed though that the AWD does not function "full time" like that on my 04 Dodge Durango. The SF runs rings around the Durango in the mpg department though.
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6K mile 2011 Santa Fe Limited front wheel drive V6 and I am getting a humming/howling sound at 55+ MPH and it is very annoying, not too loud but there. It is really bad at 75+...
The tires were road forced balanced and a alignment was done by the dealer. The Rear was way out of align but they supposedly fixed it.
I do not get any kind of vibration in the body or steering wheel but the humming/howling sound is terrible. Almost like when you crack one of the rear windows and you get that pressure sound...
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The vehicle has 80,000kms, and from a cold start it is having this problem more and more frequently. I must crank the engine 3+ times, and then she starts. A prolonged cranking period doesn't seem to work, and this only occurs when cold. The car starts fine when warmed up. I have scanned the car with a generic OBD2 reader and there are no codes. Once the car is running, it runs great with no misfires.
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I drive a 2011 Limited. Three out of the past four mornings the car has been reluctant to start. It is cold out, but not super cold. This morning it was 1C (34F).
When I turn the key, it cranks but does not fire. I Held the key for what felt like forever, but in reality it was probably only 6 seconds. I let go of the key, waited a few moments and then tried again. After the third try, it finally fired and ran normally. It didn't stutter or otherwise seem to have any problems.
At this point I went inside and found my basic scan tool. No codes were stored and the voltage was between 13.5v and 14.6v. After I drove to work, I turned it off. The voltage dropped to 12.1v. When I cranked it again at work, I saw the voltage drop to 9.5v for a second before it fired up and jumped to 13.5v, then 14.6v.
The car has the original battery. Could it be as simple as a battery? Oh, I Just remembered, when the car did start, the radio was off. Upon turning it on, it was reset to defaults. Other than this starting issue that has only recently started, pun intended, and the radio I am having no other issues with the car.
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My New (weeks old) 2011 SF GL V6 speedometer reading is way to high. I've confirmed this with my GPS. My last 2 cars were Honda`s - one with a digital speedo (Civic) amd they were both bang on with the GPS.
So, my issue is why is the speedo so far out - 10%. I have to drive 110 km/h for a 100km/h on the GPS. On the positive side - I'll never get a speeding ticket.
But to all of you that claim to drive at 75mph and get 25mpg - I'm guessing your really traveling way slower. What can be done. In this day and age a calibrated speedometer isn't asking for much.
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L with about 108,000 kms (roughly 65,000 miles) that seems to have produced a bit of a whining sound from the engine. It will do it in park, or in gear, and the sound seems to increase slightly with an increase in RPMs.
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My 2011 Santa Fe stalled while I was going 60 mph on a major freeway at 10:30 pm. It was very dangerous and scary, but I was able to pull off to the side of the road and get towed to safety. The "malfunction light" came on and the dealership said it had a code of PO638. They were aware of the problem and performed a software upgrade.
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Just bought a used 2011 SF GLS and the interior lights weren't coming on. I engaged the "door" button on the back seat dome light and they now come on as they should when the doors are opened or closed. BUT I can't get the front map lights to come on at all when the door opens. Engaging the "door" button for the map lights doesn't do it.
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Just took in my 2011 Santa Fe Limited for its 22,500 mile service (oil change). I was informed that it had an "oil leak under the front cover," and it needs to be fixed before it ruins the alternator. I will have to drop it off again for a whole day to have it fixed under warranty. The service rep also told me that this was not uncommon.
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2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
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