Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2010 V6 - Intermittent Drive Vibration
Oct 17, 2016
Problem I have been noticing with my 2010 v6 Santa Fe.
I first noticed a vibration that appears to come from the drive train late last winter and only seems to happen on colder mornings. It comes across like I am driving on a rough road. If I am simply rolling without a lot of acceleration there is no vibration, but once I step on the gas and add power the vibration starts and will continue until I let off the gas. It is not an alignment issue as that has already been checked and eliminated as a cause.
Once the vehicle warms up, the problem goes away. This makes it very tough to demonstrate the problem as by the time I drive to the dealer the problem is gone. Guess Ill need to pick a cold day and leave it there overnight so they can see the problem. Had a very similar issue years ago on my old Nissan Pathfinder which was eventually traced to a the 4 wheel hub system.
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We purchased a new 2010 Santa Fe Limited in October of last year, and as it stands today, we've put about 19,000km's on the vehicle (about 12,000 miles for my American friends). About 14,000km's in, we started noticing a vibration from the rear under acceleration. When you reached cruising speed (regardless of the speed), the vibration would go away, but would appear under acceleration. What was more alarming was that at slow speeds when making sharp left-hand turns (turning into the driveway, doing a u-turn, pulling into a parking spot, etc), there would occasionally be a loud bang from the rear end. The first time it happened, we thought that we had run over something... actually not but it sure sounded like it!
We took the vehicle into the dealership, and after an inspection they found a rock in one of the rear springs. They removed the rock, applied the TSB to place covers over the springs, test-drove the vehicle, and said the issue was resolved.
The next morning, I was heading out of town to pick up a friend, and experienced a loud bang when I pulled into my buddies driveway. Problem was NOT solved. Called Hyundai again, and made another service appointment. This time with the requirement of having a tech come with me for a test drive.
I was able to reproduce the vibration, which really shocked the tech. At the same time, I was also able to duplicate the loud bang when making sharp turns (I had actually caused it to happen twice when driving around the dealership, but I was alone in the vehicle at the time!), when he concluded that there was probably some binding going on in the drive train. They took the vehicle in, and after looking at it, determined that the coupler in the drive train was defective, and needed to be replaced. They didn't have the part in stock, so they had to order it in; my concern was that the vehicle was unsafe, but they assured me it would be fine to drive until the part came in. I went on a weekend trip with the vehicle, and experienced some pretty severe binding when pulling into parking spots (no bangs, but imagine driving through a lake of molasses) - I had to really give it gas to get it moving into the parking spot - not nice, especially considering what might have happened had it 'unbound' while under throttle...it was certainly not safe, but I survived.
After THREE weeks, the part finally arrived, and was installed yesterday. I'm happy to announce that the vibration has ceased, and I can only assume that the loud bang is gone as well (although I couldn't duplicate that on demand, so I'll never know for sure that it's gone). The Tech did mention that it was a new version of the part, so they just didn't install a new part, it was an upgraded new part.
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I have a 2001 Lincoln Town Car that has an intermittent vibration that can be felt when seating in the car and you move the gear shift lever to D for drive. The car has 141,000 miles. It is an automatic transmission. The vibration cannot be felt when touching the steering wheel. What could be causing the vibration?
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During an extended drive of the new ride today, we noticed an intermittent vibration when coasting downhill around 60MPH. I popped it in neutral and the vibration disappeared completely. Also, it stayed vibration-free when placed back in Drive, without touching the gas. But as soon as throttle is applied and then you coast again, the vibration reappears.
This points to a condition that only happens when the torque converter is locked, which could be a vibration originating within the transfer case that once coupled to the engine via the locked torque converter uses the engine as a tuning fork, resulting in the vibration. The L-SB-0013-12 AWD Vibration TSB mentions an ECM recalibration, which likely changes the torque converter to unlock whenever you lift off the gas pedal. Is this correct?
I also remember reading about the other TSB, where the "magic expensive fluid" in the transfer case gets changed 3 times in rapid succession. This would address chattering clutches within the transfer case, eliminating vibration at the source vs. masking it by unlocking the torque converter.
We also noticed a misfiring sensation under light throttle conditions at around 40-50MPH. I'm wondering if this is in fact the transfer case clutch chatter issue also...since the 60k spark plug replacement has already been done.
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4 cylinder car engine that doesn't shake like a tractor at idle ? I've got a 3 cylinder tractor that idles smoother.
I like my Elantra except for the tire/road noise and the intermittent BAD vibration at idle. It shakes the whole car. Odd that it doesn't do it all the time. AC seems to make it worse......sometimes. I think I can fix the road noise with different tires but fear that the dealer is going to say:" Nothing wrong. They all shake like that at idle."
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3. We bought it used with 24k on it about 5 1/2 years ago. I've uploaded a zipped mp4 of the sound that comes from the area of the AC. The sound was recorded from the passenger seat as it never seems to do it when I'm ready with the hood up.
So far the car has had 4 compressors in 72k miles. The first burnt out the clutch, as did the second a year later. This noise is intermittent, but is getting more frequent and worse. The noise started about a year ago, 3 years after the 3rd compressor install, the compressor was changed out but the noise came back 2 days later so I'm guessing it wasn't that. It only happens when the AC is engaged and doesn't change with the speed of the fan. I'm more concerned as the extended warranty is coming to an end, 75k, and the mechanics really seem stumped.
For those without audio it's a really hard noise to describe. It starts of with almost a low thump and then turns into a resonating metallic screeching. If I turn off the fan or the AC, the noise stops and I can turn them back on a few seconds later and it all sounds normal for a while.
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When I drive my 2010 santa fe. I get a noise that sounds like i have a flat tire in the back. It is intermittent and starts at any speeds. But when you stop the vehicle and start again the noise is gone. The mechanics at Hyundai replace replace a part for the all wheel drive but that did not fix the problem.
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On Sunday, I was driving on the highway and noticed an intermittent hum/rumble which seemed like it was coming from the front of the car. At first, I thought it was due to the road quality where you encounter cuts/cracks in the road which could cause similar hum/rumble. The condition of the road changed over to a brand new smooth surface for several miles. I noticed that the same hum/rumble was still there.
I'm not sure how else to describe this?... The tires would go through several rotations before each hum/rumble. For example, x = tire rotations and y = hum/rumble.
xxx y xxx y xxx y xxx y ...very similar to driving on rumble strips that have been placed on the road.
When I got off the highway I also noticed that this hum/rumble would occur during regular driving speeds.
I checked tire pressure all around and all was fine. Took a quick peek underneath and could not spot anything out of the ordinary.
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Our 2007 Grand Caravan with a 3.3 Liter Engine has intermittent vibration which feels similar to driving over rumble bars. It usually occurs between 30-50 mph but sometimes at 70-80 mph as well. Have had the suspension checked and had outer tie rod end replaced. Also had sway bar bushings replaced and front end aligned. We then brought it to transmission shop and had a transmission diagnostic performed. They found no faults with the transmission and thought the engine needed a tune-up which we did with no success. At a recent oil change, we asked for them to test drive it and check again for any suspension problems. They did not notice any vibration during the test drive and found no problems with the suspension.
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I just noticed a vibration in my steering wheel at idle with the transmission in Drive. Seems like it goes away or gets better as the car warms up.
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My 2007 CM Santa Fe 45K miles began acting up intermittently. We have owned it 5 years from new and never any issues whatsoever. My wife told me that first thing in the morning it made a horrible clanking noise and the entire car shuddered so she shut it off. Then it cranked and ran for days normally. The other morning I got in it and cranked it and man, it sounded like rods knocking, pistons slapping the crank, it was awful. Actually it sounded like premature or off time detonation, the engine would not idle and would die.
After a couple more tries the engine cranked and ran smoothly but with increasing idle speed and after two instances of normal cranking but idle increasing ever upward (same morning in sequence of 10 minutes or so of trying) I called AAA and had it carried to the dealer afraid oil pump giving out, timing belt jumped, bad crank / cam sensors, who knows? Oil was changed 5K ago with Hyundai toilet paper filter.
Anyway dealer found a code, something about engine torque excess - who knows - it wasn't causing the horrible cranking idling banging noise... did some ECM/ECU update, and repaired a TSB for the passenger side Airbag seat detector. They kept it over night and still could not make it occur.
My wife is really worried because honestly it sounds like it's going to throw a rod or something *I know it doesn't have them*. It's just a horrible gut wrenching noise. Dealer mechanics could not find anything wrong and they kept it overnight to crank it cold, and when we picked it up today it cranked fine.... She can't trust it anymore.
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My 2010 Santa Fe has an intermittent all window condensation problem, regardless whether the car has been idle overnight or whilst driving it has occurred on numerous occasions. In one case in the morning I had to use a towel to dry the inside windows. I have tried leaving the heater / AC on various settings but it still occurs. I have noticed that the door windows when I open / close them the seals do not touch the glass. In the short term the AC and fast windscreen/rear window buttons do clear the moisture but it does re-occur especially whilst driving...
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I have now had the first major issue with my 2012 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD. It started out with an intermittent low oil pressure light coming on at idle. As I researched I found the Oil Pressure Switch thread:
Oil Pressure Switch Replacement - 2010 Santa Fe 3.5L
And using that information I proceeded to replace the switch and while the switch had obviously failed unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. I tore everything down a second time to make sure the replacement switch hadn't failed and to make sure it wasn't leaking. Turns out that everything looked good yet the oil pressure light was still coming on after everything was warmed up.
Tonight I tore everything down for a third time to put an extension hose on the oil pressure port so I could hook up a mechanical pressure gauge in addition to the oil switch. While I am very pleased with how the extension hose worked out, however it appears that I do indeed have low oil pressure. Without letting it warm up completely I was dropping down below 15psi.
I guess at this point my best case scenario is a malfunctioning oil pump and worst case is worn bearings. With only 67k miles and fairly religious oil changes I am praying for the oil pump. My next step is to contact the dealer as I am still under the powertrain warranty, hopefully that goes well. I will try to keep this thread updated as I learn more. Up to this point I have really enjoyed the Santa Fe and have had minimal issues with it.
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I have 2007 Santa Fe LTD which will intermittently not start. All electrical devices work fine but when you turn the key the starter will not engage. Keep trying the key and after 5-10-100 try's the car will start. The next time it may start on the first attempt or it might not. Sometimes it will go weeks without a problem then it will not start again. I have checked the starter relay, battery, and cables. It seems like the alarm is faulty and not letting the power get to the starter.
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I have a 2007 2.7L with 150,000 miles. Yesterday while driving at 20mph my engine all of a sudden started knocking like I lost the timing belt which I replaced 10,000 miles back, including the tensioner fully (bought as a kit off Rock auto). I parked immediately. Today we investigated a little more and what we found is that os is more like a loud knock and not a metal on metal sound. It definitely knocks faster or slower with the RPM of the engine. It even ceased for a while and the engine idles silently but then on the next restart it came back.
It even went away again with an increase in RPM but then came back at an idle or sometimes didn't. You can clearly hear it in the rear of the block. I will admit I have never changed the plugs. We can a scan on it and a misfire in #4 cylinder came up. Unfortunately my check engine light is always on because I have a bad sensor in my fuel tank that ill get to some day. So I'm not sure if that code is recent or not. I know I need to identify the location of the sound more closely before anyone touches my motor. Could it be bad gas that causes a misfire and knocking? I have had that code before and new gas fixed the misfire but there was no knocking then. I religiously change my oil every 5000 miles and just did 500 miles ago.
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I have a 2008 petrol Santa Fe with an automatic transmission. Recently the transmission started to intermittently make a noise like a buzz. The noise most commonly occurs when first moving off in D or R and always stops when the transmission is put in Park.
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I just bought a used 2011 Santa Fe. Two weeks ago, the right window stopped working. Neither the left or right switch had any effect. All other windows worked. A few minutes later it was ok and has been since. Today the left window did the same thing; was inop for a while then ok.
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I have been following some discussions about a vibration at about 40 kms my has this problem also. I removed my drive shaft this morning and ran it on the hoist at that speed the vibration, noise is gone. I checked the center bearing and u-joints , the front u-joint has a tight spot. It appears the u-joints are not serviceable ,whole drive shaft replacement??
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When I drive my 2010 Toyota Corolla on a rough tar road, i feel dashboard vibration on the drivers side. The vibration is sensed in the instrument panel and also around the window. This happens if the tar road is rough or uneven. Is there anyway to remove the top of the dashboard and insulate it?
I live in sunny South Florida, so the heat makes the plastics in these corollas rattle or vibrate more, going over rough tar roads.
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I recently bought a 08 question Sante fe we just drove it. When it got to 70 to 80 mph i could feel a vibration in the steering wheel. What it could be. I bought it with 56k on it. Put new tires on it cuz the original tires were worn on the inside on the rears.
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i have a 2.2 crdi 2009 santa fe and when my foots off the gas pedal it has this strange vibrating hum noise that comes and goes - it doesn't matter if its in Park or Neutral.
You can only hear it inside the cab so im thinking maybe its something up against the firewall but i can't see what?
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