Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2010 - Slipping Transmission / Grinding Sound And Could Not Go Forward Or Reverse
Apr 2, 2015
I was driving out of a parking lot and as I accelerated onto the main road my vehicle stopped. I heard a grinding sound and could not go forward or reverse. While the car is in drive, park or reverse my car will roll any which way. It pushed it across the street. I tried to locate my tranny dipstick via visual inspection and manual. I could not find it. Could the stick have never been put back at some point in service and caused this issue. That seems unlikely but the thought occurred. Could it be the velocity joint? Whatever it is it certainly sounds like a transmission issue.
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A friend just bought a 99 Navigator, with what wikipedia says is the 4R100. Previous owner allegedly rebuilt the trans but used the old converter
It was apparently slipping a bit, or something, when he got it. Then on the way to my place so I can drive it and see what I think, it started making nasty grinding noises once he hit 4th gear. He got off the highway and made it to my place just fine.
Put it reverse to turn around in my driveway and it started the grinding noises again. Forward gears initially had some grinding as well after that, with no forward motion. Now there's no grinding, and the engine free revs in any forward/reverse gear
Fluid is full, still red, but smells nasty.
I don't suppose the three feed bolts above the valve body being loose would cause this? I imagine he's looking at a rebuild, which neither of us really want to do.
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I recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
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Just recently, my '93 transport 3800 has started making weird sounds when engaging transmission , forward...and specially reverse. This is not a transmission problem. It sounds like there is increased torsional movement of the engine/transmission unit and it made me take a look at the engine while would shift in drive and reverse....it does lean much..impressive ..but in fact I do not remember having tried looking for that before...so I cannot compare.
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We have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD LTD with about 140, 000km on it. It recently came back from front suspension work. The suspension is fine now, but we notice harder shifts in the transmission. Also, there seems to be a vibration just before shifting gears and when under load (like going up hill) seems to slip (like on ice) about once every second until the shift is made. Once the shift is made it drive smoothly until put under pressure again. Even stepping down a bit on the accelerator will cause this slipping feeling (or maybe its loss of power).
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We have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD LTD with about 140, 000km on it. It recently came back from front suspension work. The suspension is fine now, but we notice harder shifts in the transmission. Also, there seems to be a vibration just before shifting gears and when under load (like going up hill) seems to slip (like on ice) about once every second until the shift is made. Once the shift is made it drive smoothly until put under pressure again. Even stepping down a bit on the accelerator will cause this slipping feeling (or maybe its loss of power). Just had new plugs put in and a tuneup so it's not that. Could something from the suspension work cause these symptoms?
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My 2009 Santa-Fe AWD Limited is sick! Starting from a stop, the vehicle has abrupt shifts with the transmission slipping (RPM revving). Seems worse when cold. Checked the fluids, and found ATF fluid in the engine oil and engine oil in the ATF fluid. Quick internet check suggest a leaky vacuum modulator valve. (There is no way the fluids went in the wrong holes, the vehicle only has 69k kilometers on it, so it still has original ATF fluid, and I recently changed the engine oil myself.) So, do you think this is the correct diagnosis? How hard is it to change the modulator, and where is it located?
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08 ES350 with 52k miles has a grinding sound in reverse. Brake pads were inspected - ok. Suspect that parking brake shoe is worn. Any tips on teardown/replacement ?
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I have a problem. 2002 F-350 4R100 tranny. Put a reman transmission in about 30000kms ago. pulled excellent with no problems. shut it off for night. In the morning it had absolutly no forward and a little bit of slipping reverse for a few minutes now it is totally dead. No movement either way. The OD on off flashed a few times but not anymore. Put a Genisys scanner on and no codes at all. What could be the issue?
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2003 Explorer with a slipping transmission...codes are P0731, P0732, P0733... Just had a new solenoid pack installed last week when O/D light came on and truck was clunking into reverse. Now, after new pack was installed the forward gears are slipping all over the place!
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I put the trans in gear it won't move and has a grinding sound and rolls unless I use the emergency brake. I bought this used from a friend at 80k miles, now it has 130k miles and has been factory serviced regularly.
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I have a 2000 dakota in the morning after the first start, moving foward the truck rocks and feels like trans. slipping. After 5 mins, just fine. Change the Trans. Ffilter?
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2010 SF Limited, about 46,000 KM.
Heard a grinding noise coming from the back of the truck today. First thing I thought to look at was the rotors. They looked warped/wavy and were really hot. I'm worried that the pads are used up and its metal on metal, really looks like rotor damage. I'm confused by this...
1) I get a safety inspection done every time i'm in for service (6km), no service rep has ever warned me about my pads.
2) Aren't squealers supposed to warn the driver of low pads?
3) Pads wear out faster in the front than they do in the back. How could the back pads be used up already? The front looks fine.
So if my back calipers are seized, or the e-brake line froze, then i'm driving with the back brakes engaged full time. This should not have happened to a truck so young. Do I have a warranty case here?
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I started noticing that when I shift the car into reverse to back out of the driveway, the car door locks sound like they are trying to lock/unlock repeatedly for a couple of seconds. I know the car automatically locks the door when I shift out of park, but the multiple retries is a new behavior. All doors do lock. I do have the child locks enabled for the rear doors and that hasn't changed in 3-4 years. I also disabled them and the retries persist.
I have also noticed that around the same time (past month?) I must push the unlock button on the keyless entry remote twice to unlock all the doors--including the driver side door. In the past I only had to push the button once to just unlock the driver's door and the side lamps would flash, but one push doesn't do anything anymore. I've never changed the battery in the remote, but does the car care that the remote battery may be running low to exhibit this behavior? It's a 2010 SF with 52K miles.
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I recently noticed that both reverse lights on my wife's 2010 Santa Fe are dead.
It's odd that both bulbs would burn out at the same time. So I checked them and they're both good. The bulbs are not burnt out.
What should I check next?
I looked up the fuses in the owner manual, checked those, and everything looks good there. There is a relay as well. I swapped that with a similar relay in the fuse box, but that made no difference either.
I suspect it's the reverse switch on the transmission. Ours is a manual transmission. How to locate and access that reverse switch?
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I always thought the clicking sound I was hearing in the morning was coming from the engine. Then I realized the sound doesn't start until the car is in gear, either reverse or drive. After a few minutes it will go away but until it does, it is a noticeable sound. I still have a warranty. I am wondering what this could be.
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We have a 2001 Santa Fe. Very recently it began hesitating when put in gear going forward or reverse. Once the gas pedal is pressed, there's a delay of up to 2 seconds as RPM climbs, then the vehicle jerks into gear. It seems to run fine otherwise. Mileage is approx 128 k. Maintained very well by the same mechanic until very recently. Internet searches have gotten answers of use fuel additive, install some computer patch, fix an oxygen sensor, change tranny fluid and flush tranny, rebuild tranny.
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Since few days ago , at the morning when moving from P to D , There is hit sound coming from the transmission with Car shaking, the issue started as like shifting sound with small hit sound , after 3 days , the sound be like hitting with car shaking .
This happened Just at the morning after around 10 hours of stopping, the case reproducible as I moved from D->N->D , But If i drive the car for short distance like 50m, every thing getting be normal .
The gear shifting smooth, the fluid at the level with good quality, the fluid changed at the 60K, now the car at 73k . What could be the issue ??
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I have a 98 expedition with a 4.2 liter 4x4 and what I believe to be a 4r70w transmission (u code on the door sticker)
The original transmission went at 105k miles and was replaced with a new factory ford transmission by a ford dealer 3.5 years ago. The new transmission only has 10k miles on it.
Now the new transmission only has reverse. reverse works like normal but no forward gears. the idle will change when i put if in gear, but will not move, acts like it is in N . There is no strange noises.
It's hard to believe a new trany is shot already, no towing, or off road use.
My question is : is there ANYTHING that can go bad that would cause this? The trany fluid is clean and clear bright red, and no burnt smell.
I want to check everything I can before calling a tow truck to have it looked at. I will have it repaired if needed, but I don't think I want to replace another tranny.
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Early 2000 F250
Originally the truck would not go into any forward gear, but had reverse all day long. So I had a rebuild kit ordered (new bushings, seals, frictions, steels, a washer and flat bearing kit, a sprak kit, and the od piston)
After rebuilding it, taking my sweet time double checking everything, it will now go into forward gear but not reverse. So I dropped the pan. The small 3 bolt plate was torqued to spec. When I got to the third bolt in the smaller section of the valve body (upper valve body) I heard a click like maybe a valve returned to its place but I'm not sure. I removed the valve body and accumulator and all the valves were free and had tension. When I had it apart the first time one valve stuck for a split second but I never could get it to stick again.
Finding nothing there I uninstalled the tranny and took the barrel apart all the way down to the L/R piston and could not find anything wrong.
After the build and me running the truck for about 10-20 min there was metal on the magnet (part of the reason I took it all back apart) however I could not find anything worn or chewed up. Could have been the tc I prefilled with 2 quarts in stead of filling all the way.
When I initially rebuilt the 4r100 I took apart the pump to replace the bushing and seal but did not take apart the valves. I've heard the pump is directly related to reverse but I'm not sure. Could something gone wrong in the pump when I took it apart? How would I know? If I new all parts of the reverse system I could then test them.
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I have a strange knocking sound coming from one of the front wheel wells It sounds like a CV joint going out, but only knocks when the suspension goes up and down. I noticed it after about a week after I installed some H&R sport springs. Its not very loud and is not continuous knocking like a CV joint would be... It does it both in forward and reverse. The H&R sport springs make the car look better and it drives great otherwise.
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