Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2010 - Right Rear Door Does Not Lock When Putting Car In Gear
Jul 9, 2013
Just noticed that when I lock the doors with the remote or when the doors auto lock when putting the car in gear, the right rear door does not lock. upon watching the process, it appears the the actual lock itself does not move all the way to the locked position. However, if you lock it twice in a row, it locks. it would appear that something is blocking it to close all the way, like say gum or some other type of sticky substance but I could not find any.
View 13 Replies
Advertisement
My driver door lock will not work with either of my key fobs. or with the switch on the inside. it has to be manually locked/unlocked or the key used in the door..
View 18 Replies
I have an 8 month old vehicle that will not lock the driver side door lock (using the power lock, fob and/or when you take the vehicle out of park). The issue seems to go away, but returns usually right after I get it back from the dealership. On a side note all of the other door locks activate and deactivate fine.
View 7 Replies
I started noticing that when I shift the car into reverse to back out of the driveway, the car door locks sound like they are trying to lock/unlock repeatedly for a couple of seconds. I know the car automatically locks the door when I shift out of park, but the multiple retries is a new behavior. All doors do lock. I do have the child locks enabled for the rear doors and that hasn't changed in 3-4 years. I also disabled them and the retries persist.
I have also noticed that around the same time (past month?) I must push the unlock button on the keyless entry remote twice to unlock all the doors--including the driver side door. In the past I only had to push the button once to just unlock the driver's door and the side lamps would flash, but one push doesn't do anything anymore. I've never changed the battery in the remote, but does the car care that the remote battery may be running low to exhibit this behavior? It's a 2010 SF with 52K miles.
View 5 Replies
At first we would use the remote and sometimes the lock would not lock the drivers side door but the rest of the car would. Normally if I tried a second time it would catch and lock.
Now I need to flip the lock switch myself when getting out of the car. I can unlock the car with the remote but there has been the odd time that it will not unlock via the remote and I've had to go around to the passenger side and reach over to unlock the drivers side door.
If I hold the lock and try to unlock or lock the car it is very weak compared to doing the same with all the others doors.
From looking around if sounds like it could be the actuator?
If this is the case how easy is this to replace on my own? I've been trying to see if there's a video anywhere but no luck finding one.
View 3 Replies
I purchased this vehicle brand new this is the first real issue besides the poor paint quality. Ilove my Santa Fe! how can I fix this??
View 3 Replies
I have a 2007 Santa Fe and recently both rear doors don't respond to the car remote and even to the driver-side control panel on the door. The only way now to lock and unlock the rear doors is to manually do it from the inside. Both front doors are fine. What could be the problem with the rear doors? Is it just a fuse? Or do I need to open the door panel and have a look inside? If I do need to open the door panel, looking for instructions on how to open it.
View 26 Replies
I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe, mileage is under 50000.
The remote Door lock, does not lock or unlock drivers door. But locks/unlocks all the other door.
View 5 Replies
I gave my Prius to my mom a year ago. She was complaining that the rear door lock behind her can sometimes stick, resulting in it locking or not locking. Also any tips and DIY on how to remove the rear door panel?
View 5 Replies
My buddy just picked up a 2007 passat 2.0t. Upon bringing it home and locking it we noticed the horn didn't beep indicating an active alarm. I discovered the rear passenger door wasn't locking, and when opening it, even though the alarm was activated, the alarm didn't go off. The door unlock/lock switch as well as the window switch both aren't working. Can't open the window from the driver's door switch either.
I'm guessing it's probably something to do with the power to the door since it's completely unresponsive. Where would we be able to check if power is going to the door? Also, since the alarm doesn't go off when opened is there a sensor somewhere that says when the door is open and or locked?
View 1 Replies
Car: 2014 Prius, basic model
Symptom: Only rear left electric window and electric lock are not working. They are not responding to driver side control or remote key control. Electronics on other 3 doors function normally.
View 19 Replies
I have a problem with my driver side rear door's child safety lock. The safety lock is STUCK/BROKEN on the lock position and i cant get it back to normal... The door could only be opened from the outside right now at all times.
I took the door panel off too see if i could do anything to make it unstuck but very unfortunate...
The safety lock is a whole module itself. I bought it to my mechanic he checked it out and said it cannot be fixed and has to be replaced and he quote/estimated me just the part alone is roughly $300?
How much the part would cost in Sewell? I tried looking it up but cant locate it
View 2 Replies
As long as we are mentioning things, the trim/gasket around my rear doors on my 08 Santa Fe does not fit right. You can see it in the attached photo. The gasket is one piece, and there is no way to arrange the slack so that there is not a gap. Maybe someone used the wrong one at the factory, or is this a common/known problem? I'll ask about it the next time I'm in the dealer.
View 18 Replies
I am driving a 2012 Sante Fe with a bit of a problem. A rear door does not open from inside nor outside. Is there a way to remove the panel to gain access with the door closed?
View 3 Replies
A few days after having the rear window glass replaced now the rear door on my 07 Santa Fe will not open. I hear the electric motor locking/unlocking the mechanism but the handle won't open the gate.
I guess I will need to get to the locking mechanism but it seems to me that it will take a lot of work to get the rear panel off from inside the "trunk". Is this a somewhat common issue with the SF? Any way to get it fix.
View 1 Replies
On my 2.2 2008 SF the rear door sometimes refuses to unlock randomly. All others are fine. Rear passengers cannot then get out!
Tried taking inner door panel off. very little access and liberal spraying of WD40...............
View 4 Replies
I have a 2007 santa fe and my rear passenger door is locked shut and i cant remove the door card to gain access to the lock ! i have tried the key fob and all the other doors lock and unlock fine !
The lock lever inside the car for the offending rear door flickers when you try and unlock the door with the fob but that is all .
View 1 Replies
Driver side rear door will not open by key, key fob or internal handle, 2007 model. Also is there an Haynes manual for this model....
View 6 Replies
My 2008 Elite has a door that won't open. The rear door on the driver's side.
It is an Australian Elite model. I can hear the click when the remote is pressed. How can I get the door open to remove the intyerior trim?
View 3 Replies
Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
View 4 Replies
We purchased a new 2010 Santa Fe Limited in October of last year, and as it stands today, we've put about 19,000km's on the vehicle (about 12,000 miles for my American friends). About 14,000km's in, we started noticing a vibration from the rear under acceleration. When you reached cruising speed (regardless of the speed), the vibration would go away, but would appear under acceleration. What was more alarming was that at slow speeds when making sharp left-hand turns (turning into the driveway, doing a u-turn, pulling into a parking spot, etc), there would occasionally be a loud bang from the rear end. The first time it happened, we thought that we had run over something... actually not but it sure sounded like it!
We took the vehicle into the dealership, and after an inspection they found a rock in one of the rear springs. They removed the rock, applied the TSB to place covers over the springs, test-drove the vehicle, and said the issue was resolved.
The next morning, I was heading out of town to pick up a friend, and experienced a loud bang when I pulled into my buddies driveway. Problem was NOT solved. Called Hyundai again, and made another service appointment. This time with the requirement of having a tech come with me for a test drive.
I was able to reproduce the vibration, which really shocked the tech. At the same time, I was also able to duplicate the loud bang when making sharp turns (I had actually caused it to happen twice when driving around the dealership, but I was alone in the vehicle at the time!), when he concluded that there was probably some binding going on in the drive train. They took the vehicle in, and after looking at it, determined that the coupler in the drive train was defective, and needed to be replaced. They didn't have the part in stock, so they had to order it in; my concern was that the vehicle was unsafe, but they assured me it would be fine to drive until the part came in. I went on a weekend trip with the vehicle, and experienced some pretty severe binding when pulling into parking spots (no bangs, but imagine driving through a lake of molasses) - I had to really give it gas to get it moving into the parking spot - not nice, especially considering what might have happened had it 'unbound' while under throttle...it was certainly not safe, but I survived.
After THREE weeks, the part finally arrived, and was installed yesterday. I'm happy to announce that the vibration has ceased, and I can only assume that the loud bang is gone as well (although I couldn't duplicate that on demand, so I'll never know for sure that it's gone). The Tech did mention that it was a new version of the part, so they just didn't install a new part, it was an upgraded new part.
View 26 Replies
