Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2010 Recently Quit Starting
Jul 23, 2013
My santa fe just recently quit starting. Thought it was a bad battery and I replaced it but it didn't work. When I try to start the relay clicks like low voltage but I am measuring the battery voltage while trying to start and it doesn't drop. After trying to start the instrument lights go out and the key chime quits beeping. Remote key locks work but the horn doesn't sound if I click lock twice. I have measured the battery voltage from Battery plus the the frame and the voltage is good during the start attempt. If I measure the battery voltage from battery plus to the engine as ground there is no voltage. I have tried to jumper the engine block to the frame and still the relay just clicks during start.
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Well, even though I love my 2010 SF SE I have had a few issues. I've had my power steering pump replaced twice and now I'm hearing a clunky/creaky noise coming from the right from wheel. I"m thinking it is a sticky caliper. It happens most frequently when I am just starting out from having the car parked for a while. When I put my foot on the brake and then release it I get the noise. It seems to go away after I have been driving a while.
Can't say I ever had this much trouble with my previous generation SF. Nothing major but annoying none the less. BTW I have just under 30k miles.
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I have a recently purchased 2005 Prius- Mileage-150.3k having several lights on the dash: ABS/VSC/Engine Check/ Brakes, etc. See attached screen shot. Initially, I got into the shop and had the codes read out several codes. In all, I was informed the root cause was a bad 12v and bad hybrid batteries. By this time , the car was still moving, though not very smoothly. however, less than a week thereafter, the car couldn't start again.
We decided to replace the 12v first, hoping to get it back to start but it wouldn't. I've checked the fuses in the engine compartment as well as on the steering column- all okay. I've checked battery voltage, it's now at 12.3v. When I try to start, the Ready light would simply flash for 2-3 seconds before going off. I've rechecked battery connections as well as the brake controls by the 12v battery- all well tightened.
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The past two days my 2008 Santa Fe has been exhibiting power failure upon starting. When the ignition is switched on then to start all power is lost immediately with no start nor crank. I hear a metallic click seemingly too light a sound for a starter solenoid but since this has not happened before it could be a solenoid sound. All power is lost including dash and marker lights. After about 5 seconds or so the marker lights and dash will return and the car will start normally. I expect a circuit breaker is resetting. This has happened three starts in a row at least eight hours apart. This morning the dash clock was 8 or so hours behind but the car started normally. 62k on the car.
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Well its the coldest this SF has endured while in my barn. It was -23C last night or early this morning went we got up. -19C now but it doesn't warm up with a slight change sitting outside. I started it ok but these newer vehicles sure make a lot of whining and other noises when its this cold until they run for a minute they quiet down.
My old Grand Cherokee was a lot quieter even with near 300k on it it. But my wife's Jeep Compass a 2009 made enough noises as well. Both have synthetic oil in them. I just don't like hearing all that and wonder what its like for you that are in much colder climate with your SF since -30 to -40C is common in other parts of Canada in the Winter. Just curious because it cannot be good and the PS pump must be one of the complainers I am sure.
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My 2009 awd SF is less than 4 years old and has about 81500 km on. In the past few days, I start to feel a little hesitation while starting the car. I have an incident today in which the car barely turn over - behaved exactly as if the battery is dying. Took it to the dealer and spent 55$ for a diagnosis => alternator is OK (what a relief) but the battery is weak. I do not think battery would die (stop holding charge) this soon. I expect at least 5-6 years of service from a battery.
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It seems like I have to jiggle the steering wheel, about 1/2 the time, to get my ignition key to turn to the start mode. I've owned quite a few other vehicles and this has happened occasionally on some of the others, but never as often as with the SF.
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My 2009 Santa Fe (2.7 L V6 GL, 5 months old 7500 kms) just recently started making some very pronounced knocking noises on startup when the engine is cold. It never did this before and only lasts a minute or less, it's not that the engine itself is very cold since I keep it in a heated garage all the time when it's home, but when the engine is starts first thing in the morning it's very noticeable.
I have an appt. at a dealership tomorrow to get it checked, outside of an oil change I never dealt with these guy's before. What it could be? It's full of oil which they just changed 4 weeks ago.
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My car has less than 500 miles on it. Yesterday when I started it, I heard a knocking sound. I only put 87 octane gas in the car as the manual said 87 or higher. I don't know if I made a mistake putting 87 in there.
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I'm a Santa Fe owner since I bought a 2007 2.2CRDI 4 wheel drive model in 2008. It's been a great machine with over 340000 Km on the clock.
This motor has caused no problems until now, and oil & filter changed as specified. This motor had never needed engine oil top-ups until recently, and my tale of woe started about two weeks ago when I got a "sump level low" light when stopped on a steeply inclined drive. I stopped the engine and rolled back to flat ground where the light disappeared on re-start. I duly topped up the engine oil, and it took about two litres to bring it up midway on the dipstick.
All seemed ok until about a week later I spotted a longer than usual shut-off of the oil pressure warning light, and over a period of three maybe five startups from cold it has gone from a delay of two seconds to five, even six. The oil in use is a 10/40, so clearly that will suit cold starts best. Once the light has gone out it stays out, even after a long drive though a short stop/start will show a delay of up to a second before the light goes out. The engine still sounds smooth with no rattles that might associate oil starvation.
My mechanic thinks it may be the oil strainer in the sump, or worst case scenario the oil pump. There has been a whining noise from the engine for some time which raises with the engine rev's, and this seems (according to some blogs) maybe to be associated with oil pump wearing out?
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UK 2.2 Diesel
Problem for about 3 years. Always starts in neutral, rarely starts in park.
Any possible cause. Maybe a micro switch or a cable adjustment.
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I have year 2011 santa fe, while mileage after 7000km, i have problem in air-cond, when i returned to my car within 3 minute to 5 minutes and start engine i can smell some source of chemical smell from air-cond for 3 second, why ? if i started engine after an hour then there is no smell, why ?
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD which I suspect the AWD is failing. This is my 3rd viscous coupler (2 previous replacements under warranty). I am now out of warranty and am not willing to replace it again because I am sure it will fail.
I remember a tech had disabled my AWD in the past while waiting for a part to arrive. How to disable the AWD? I do remember it was from underneath the vehicle.
The reason I want to disable it is because it is intermittently delivering power to the rear wheels and it bucks and kicks when accelerating.
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I have removed this filter before but last oil change I took it to a garage as it was too cold for my liking to change oil. The cap is now stuck on very tight. This one has a plastic 27 mm lug on top with an arrow clearly pointing clockwise. I am assuming that means to turn clockwise (or reverse thread) to remove it. It simply won't budge.
I read the post where someone broke the plastic top on the housing and I do not want to have that happen. How to confirm that the oil filter top is reverse thread?
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So it worked fine, then one day I get in and start it up and I get a "no connection" message. I can change back and forth between XM 1 2 & 3. But I cannot change stations or even scroll to my radio ID.
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My Santa Fe 2010 is pulling to the left and the dealer has tried everything to eradicate the fault without success. What might be causing this?
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I've got about 4300 miles on my '10 Santy SE and the glove box rattles like crazy. And no, it's not something in the glove box that's rattling.
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My 2010 Sante Fe started blowing the BCM 1 fuse.The vehicle will not even crank over. Its at the dealer for the 3rd time time this week. 1st time thought it was a faulty fuse, 2nd time replaced the drivers door lock actuator.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe 2.2 crdi auto with 67k on the clock. It's hard to explain but recently the car is idling much deeper than usual, that typical diesel everything vibrating feel when sat at lights. Its fine when I'm on the move but once i drop below 1000rev and more so when in Drive, not as bad in Neutral. I went over a speed bump the other day and i can swear i felt something change when i went over the bump.
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Recently my 2010 Santa Fe's remote start key fob is not acknowledging a response for any function on it and there is no blue light activating behind rear view mirror. I figure it has to be something fairly simple since it worked just fine last week. I have two remotes and when buttons are pushed I'm getting bright blue lights on both key fobs so I doubt if both batteries are bad, the factory key fob for door locks still works fine. I've read other posts and I'm aware that there is not many fans of the remote start feature. Its been -30 here in MB for far too long and I need this feature to work for me.
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We purchased a new 2010 Santa Fe Limited in October of last year, and as it stands today, we've put about 19,000km's on the vehicle (about 12,000 miles for my American friends). About 14,000km's in, we started noticing a vibration from the rear under acceleration. When you reached cruising speed (regardless of the speed), the vibration would go away, but would appear under acceleration. What was more alarming was that at slow speeds when making sharp left-hand turns (turning into the driveway, doing a u-turn, pulling into a parking spot, etc), there would occasionally be a loud bang from the rear end. The first time it happened, we thought that we had run over something... actually not but it sure sounded like it!
We took the vehicle into the dealership, and after an inspection they found a rock in one of the rear springs. They removed the rock, applied the TSB to place covers over the springs, test-drove the vehicle, and said the issue was resolved.
The next morning, I was heading out of town to pick up a friend, and experienced a loud bang when I pulled into my buddies driveway. Problem was NOT solved. Called Hyundai again, and made another service appointment. This time with the requirement of having a tech come with me for a test drive.
I was able to reproduce the vibration, which really shocked the tech. At the same time, I was also able to duplicate the loud bang when making sharp turns (I had actually caused it to happen twice when driving around the dealership, but I was alone in the vehicle at the time!), when he concluded that there was probably some binding going on in the drive train. They took the vehicle in, and after looking at it, determined that the coupler in the drive train was defective, and needed to be replaced. They didn't have the part in stock, so they had to order it in; my concern was that the vehicle was unsafe, but they assured me it would be fine to drive until the part came in. I went on a weekend trip with the vehicle, and experienced some pretty severe binding when pulling into parking spots (no bangs, but imagine driving through a lake of molasses) - I had to really give it gas to get it moving into the parking spot - not nice, especially considering what might have happened had it 'unbound' while under throttle...it was certainly not safe, but I survived.
After THREE weeks, the part finally arrived, and was installed yesterday. I'm happy to announce that the vibration has ceased, and I can only assume that the loud bang is gone as well (although I couldn't duplicate that on demand, so I'll never know for sure that it's gone). The Tech did mention that it was a new version of the part, so they just didn't install a new part, it was an upgraded new part.
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