Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2010 - Rattling In Glove Box
Oct 5, 2010
I've got about 4300 miles on my '10 Santy SE and the glove box rattles like crazy. And no, it's not something in the glove box that's rattling.
View 28 RepliesI've got about 4300 miles on my '10 Santy SE and the glove box rattles like crazy. And no, it's not something in the glove box that's rattling.
View 28 RepliesI have a 2011 RX350 and recently noticed rattling sound coming from inside the glove compartment.
I think it comes from the plastic cover of the aircon filter at the back of the glove compartment. This cover seems bit loose even when installed back properly and the vibration (especially when driving over uneven roads) is causing the rattling sound.
I know it's a minor problem but the rattling sound can get irritating at times. My temporary fix is to push back the heavy owner's manual on that cover to prevent vibration.
Santa fe developed a noise underneath that rattles up to the gear shift. It happens mostly when you take your foot off the gas but can happen if your just cruising. Engine does not make any noise while revving it or under load in drive with foot on brake. Definitely sounds rotational but all looks ok underneath.
View 2 RepliesWhen closing my glove box, it will open back out. That's if I slap it on and let go. I noticed that there are 2 notches sliding out of the glove box. If I push them in by hand, they slide out slowly. So I tried to close the glove box and keep my hand on it for a couple of seconds for the notches to slide. It stays closed this way. I'm suspecting this is tied to the cold weather we're having lately. I hope I don't have to take it apart to re-lube it or anything like that.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe v6. I've had problems with the air conditioning in that it blows hot. Paid around 900 bucks to have a new compressor installed because the mechanic said that would fix it but it didn't. That was about 8 months ago. Still blowing strong but no cold air. About two weeks ago I took the car to a different mechanic who told me it needs a new compressor which would be 900 bucks. I declined that but had the guy do a little work on the breaks. He put new rotors and pads on the front brakes two weeks ago. Now within the past couple days when I start the car up it makes an extremely loud nasty grinding type of sound for a couple seconds then stops. Oil is fine and new. It happened this morning long enough for me to look under the hood and see the fans looked like they were fine, and the loud grinding noise seems to be coming from behind the glove box. It hasn't broke down on me yet, it's just really obnoxious and embarrassing with all the noise every morning.
View 8 RepliesFor the last two days I've had a very intermittent (tck, tck, tck) sound coming from what sounds like the glove compartment area. It has a rep rate of around three times a second and is very regular. It sounds like a relay to me. It has only lasted less than 20 seconds on each occurrence so don't have time to troubleshoot. I took that area apart and I see two 12volt 25 amp what look like relays just to the right of the glove compartment. I've left that area torn apart so if it happens again I can feel the relays and get it down to one-and or eliminate them as the cause of the noise.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD which I suspect the AWD is failing. This is my 3rd viscous coupler (2 previous replacements under warranty). I am now out of warranty and am not willing to replace it again because I am sure it will fail.
I remember a tech had disabled my AWD in the past while waiting for a part to arrive. How to disable the AWD? I do remember it was from underneath the vehicle.
The reason I want to disable it is because it is intermittently delivering power to the rear wheels and it bucks and kicks when accelerating.
How to replace the glove box lock in a 2007 Toyota Camry. I'm referring to part # 7 or 8 in the diagram below.
View 1 RepliesI start hearing rattle on my 2010 UL ES350. I think it's coming from either glove compartment or the wood on right passenger front door. It's really annoying.
View 14 RepliesI have removed this filter before but last oil change I took it to a garage as it was too cold for my liking to change oil. The cap is now stuck on very tight. This one has a plastic 27 mm lug on top with an arrow clearly pointing clockwise. I am assuming that means to turn clockwise (or reverse thread) to remove it. It simply won't budge.
I read the post where someone broke the plastic top on the housing and I do not want to have that happen. How to confirm that the oil filter top is reverse thread?
So it worked fine, then one day I get in and start it up and I get a "no connection" message. I can change back and forth between XM 1 2 & 3. But I cannot change stations or even scroll to my radio ID.
View 9 RepliesMy Santa Fe 2010 is pulling to the left and the dealer has tried everything to eradicate the fault without success. What might be causing this?
View 4 RepliesMy 2010 Sante Fe started blowing the BCM 1 fuse.The vehicle will not even crank over. Its at the dealer for the 3rd time time this week. 1st time thought it was a faulty fuse, 2nd time replaced the drivers door lock actuator.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Santa Fe 2.2 crdi auto with 67k on the clock. It's hard to explain but recently the car is idling much deeper than usual, that typical diesel everything vibrating feel when sat at lights. Its fine when I'm on the move but once i drop below 1000rev and more so when in Drive, not as bad in Neutral. I went over a speed bump the other day and i can swear i felt something change when i went over the bump.
View 2 RepliesGlove box rattle on the 3rd gen RX. Mine makes a slight noise over very rough pavement. It seems to make noise at the latch, so a felt is probably not going to work.
View 2 RepliesMy 2010 IV has some kind of rattle/vibration in the upper glovebox. You can only hear it when taking off from a stop or accelerating at low speed.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 LS 460 Sport and recently noticed that there is a faint water sound coming from behind the glove box every time I accelerate from standstill and sometimes when the car is idle and the A/C is on. My initial thinking was that it is some sort of a clog in the A/C drain, and that's what I told my service supervisor at the most recent service at a Lexus dealership. They said that they could not find anything except for a bit of debris in the A/C drain, which they blew out, however the noise is still there. The best way that I can describe the noise is that it's similar to a noise that a rainstick makes.
View 3 RepliesMy santa fe just recently quit starting. Thought it was a bad battery and I replaced it but it didn't work. When I try to start the relay clicks like low voltage but I am measuring the battery voltage while trying to start and it doesn't drop. After trying to start the instrument lights go out and the key chime quits beeping. Remote key locks work but the horn doesn't sound if I click lock twice. I have measured the battery voltage from Battery plus the the frame and the voltage is good during the start attempt. If I measure the battery voltage from battery plus to the engine as ground there is no voltage. I have tried to jumper the engine block to the frame and still the relay just clicks during start.
View 2 RepliesRecently my 2010 Santa Fe's remote start key fob is not acknowledging a response for any function on it and there is no blue light activating behind rear view mirror. I figure it has to be something fairly simple since it worked just fine last week. I have two remotes and when buttons are pushed I'm getting bright blue lights on both key fobs so I doubt if both batteries are bad, the factory key fob for door locks still works fine. I've read other posts and I'm aware that there is not many fans of the remote start feature. Its been -30 here in MB for far too long and I need this feature to work for me.
View 2 RepliesWe purchased a new 2010 Santa Fe Limited in October of last year, and as it stands today, we've put about 19,000km's on the vehicle (about 12,000 miles for my American friends). About 14,000km's in, we started noticing a vibration from the rear under acceleration. When you reached cruising speed (regardless of the speed), the vibration would go away, but would appear under acceleration. What was more alarming was that at slow speeds when making sharp left-hand turns (turning into the driveway, doing a u-turn, pulling into a parking spot, etc), there would occasionally be a loud bang from the rear end. The first time it happened, we thought that we had run over something... actually not but it sure sounded like it!
We took the vehicle into the dealership, and after an inspection they found a rock in one of the rear springs. They removed the rock, applied the TSB to place covers over the springs, test-drove the vehicle, and said the issue was resolved.
The next morning, I was heading out of town to pick up a friend, and experienced a loud bang when I pulled into my buddies driveway. Problem was NOT solved. Called Hyundai again, and made another service appointment. This time with the requirement of having a tech come with me for a test drive.
I was able to reproduce the vibration, which really shocked the tech. At the same time, I was also able to duplicate the loud bang when making sharp turns (I had actually caused it to happen twice when driving around the dealership, but I was alone in the vehicle at the time!), when he concluded that there was probably some binding going on in the drive train. They took the vehicle in, and after looking at it, determined that the coupler in the drive train was defective, and needed to be replaced. They didn't have the part in stock, so they had to order it in; my concern was that the vehicle was unsafe, but they assured me it would be fine to drive until the part came in. I went on a weekend trip with the vehicle, and experienced some pretty severe binding when pulling into parking spots (no bangs, but imagine driving through a lake of molasses) - I had to really give it gas to get it moving into the parking spot - not nice, especially considering what might have happened had it 'unbound' while under throttle...it was certainly not safe, but I survived.
After THREE weeks, the part finally arrived, and was installed yesterday. I'm happy to announce that the vibration has ceased, and I can only assume that the loud bang is gone as well (although I couldn't duplicate that on demand, so I'll never know for sure that it's gone). The Tech did mention that it was a new version of the part, so they just didn't install a new part, it was an upgraded new part.
2010 Santa Fe v6, AWD, 95K miles. New struts at 65K, new swaybar endlinks shortly after that.
VERY reliable overall (knock wood).
Last 5K miles or so Ive started noticing a "clickpop" under certain conditions. It sounds like the swaybar endlinks did when they started going - BUT it is different.
Let me explain:
The sound is not caused by road unevenness, or bumps at all. When the struts or swaybar endlinks go, its pretty easy to tell - as you can hit an uneven patch of road, or a certain type of bump and make it happen.
This "clickpop" sounds as if it is coming from just about under the brake pedal, on the firewall side of things. (Engine/undercarriage in that area).
I can make it do it by accelerating up to a "cruising along" speed - i.e. little throttle input (but not coasting down) and then either add throttle quickly, or back off totally. "Clickpop"
I have also been able to make it do it at a stop light - if the road is inclined (stopped uphill) and I add throttle then get off it. Clickpop. Its getting worse pretty noticeably in the past week.
Looking at things - all that makes sense to me is the motor mounts. There are apparently two - one on each side, and two "anti roll" mounts one front and back. If the anti roll ones were bad (esp the one on the back) it would seem to fit.