My wife was driving our 2 young kids on the highway and the accelerator was making a loud clacking noise and then there was no response when pressing the accelerator. She managed to get to the shoulder. Mechanic says the engine is totally cooked (long block replacement). Only 32K miles and all scheduled maintenance done.
View 7 RepliesNew 2015 Escape. Since I got this car in January I have had this problem where occasionally pressing on the accelerator does nothing for a few seconds and then accelerates like popping the clutch in a stick shift. i.e., I was stopped at a redlight with traffic in front of me. The light went green and the traffic was moving very slow. I depressed the accelerator to match the slow speeds. Traffic began to pick up speed and depressing my accelerator more was doing nothing. I gave it slightly more accelerator and nothing. Then my car jerks forward like I popped the clutch, (my car is auto).
The traffic in from of me then stopped and I had to slam on the brakes to avoid rear-ending the car in front of me. This occurs often but I cannot repeat the event. It happens occasionally and without warning. No faults showing.
I had it back to the dealer right after I bought it. I was told to allow time for the adaptive system to break in. At 2k miles I had it back in and was told, no faults, driving it showed nothing, it must be me. Now at 3500 miles, called Ford and was told to take it back to dealer. I have an appointment next week. This is more than a nuisance as I am very concerned pulling into a parking lot or in the example I wrote about could easily end in an accident with another vehicle or pedestrian, especially children.
I get a strange noise when I shit gear & press the accelerator..... the sound is as if something is knocking.....
View 3 RepliesI need to pinpoint this clunking noise. I've recently noticed this noise on the highway, after I have been driving a while, when I stop and begin driving again, if I am barely pressing he accelerator, she will clunk along. The sound is accompanied by a movement that you can feel as well. I'm beginning to think maybe there is some slippage in the rear differential.
Also I was wondering how much repairs run for this diff, the numbers I got were:
D26W0
and
2148
I know its not the U-joints, I just had them replaced along with a new driveshaft.
When I'm on the highway around 60 mph I get a whistling whining vibration sound. if I accelerate or ease off the accelerator it stops, but when I get back to around that speed it comes back. What this could be?
View 9 RepliesYesterday I noticed a slight clacking noise coming from the engine, but it was only when I was just barely on the gas. It wasn't there at idle. Now today after an hour drive, it is loud, and at all rpm's. What could it be?
View 18 RepliesOn my Santa fe 2009 , Just noticed that I can shift from PARK to R, N, D or anything else without pressing on the brake. I checked the gear sticky by the mechanic , and we found that the lock on the gear sticky not exists. So I am worry if that normal and it's like safety option that not exists on my car? Also , is it something that may case damage to the transmission , or just Safety option .
View 8 RepliesI turned off the engine and I get a whirring sound, quite loud, that seems to be coming from the top of the engine around where the injectors are.
View 51 RepliesThe other day, I had occasion to try to start my '08 Ltd, and there was no starter response to the key. Everything lit up and didn't dim when turning the key. Jiggled the key a few times, no change. Jiggled the shift lever a few times, no change. Turned the key a few more times, and it started. Yes, the vehicle was definitely in Park at the time.
This one has an automatic, so I'm assuming it was either a shift interlock switch (aka Neutral Safety Switch) or possibly the ignition switch itself, but as noted, neither responded to my ham handed approach to solving the problem. First time, it took about half a dozen start attempts. The second time, only three.
Haven't had the problem since then, but then again, I haven't been cycling the ignition as much as I was that day (probably 20 start stop cycles). Now I'm just wondering where and when it will bite me again. Some of the places I take this vehicle to the boonies in the Rocky Mountains would cost me dearly in tow charges.
Encountered this on an earlier CM model? I don't recall ever seeing this mentioned here over the years.
My wife was driving to work this morning in her 08 Santa Fe (2.7) and said she had very little/no response when stepping on the gas.
Check engine, ESC off, and the AWD light (drivetrain light) were all illuminated.
She turned the car off and when she turned it back on, only the CEL remained illuminated - it drove better, but still rough.
AutoZone pulled the codes and we've got P1295, P2106, and P2135.
From what I've seen on this site, it sounds like the TPS - would those codes be consistent with that issue?
Also, since we're just out of warranty, is that something I can fix myself? Looks like a pretty easy part to replace ... but I've heard there's something about have to flash the ECM?
I am getting a loud knocking noise from the engine on my Santa Fe. The car is very low mileage of around 51K and has regular service and oil change.
Not sure what has caused this but there is a loud tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine. Have got it locally checked with the garage and Hyundai Workshop also but both have suggested that Oil levels are appropriate and they need to open engine to investigate more.
At a higher RPM the sound becomes more loud and recognizable.
Driving on the motorway yesterday, all fine until i lost power..engine light came on, but I was able to continue driving for about 6 miles (trying to get to services) but eventually it would go no further, pulled over and found that the intercooler pipe had come off, replaced it but still no joy.
Recovery van attended and plugged in diagnostic and found a dpf fault and gas pressure valve fault, he cleared the light but i think the faults still remained.. so i had to be recovered home.
The engine will start but it does not quiet sound right, no response from the throttle and if i put it into drive the engine stops.. Its a 2007 2.2
I'm having an issues with my Santa Fe MY07 - Basically I was driving down the dual carriage way last week when suddenly the oil light came on and with the 500m it took me to stop a loud tapping noise was coming from the engine as it seized - The break down people came out to the car as they were inspecting it they informed me that the Sump cap was missing - the car is under warranty - however Hyundai as say that because the cannot find out why the sump cap had came off (and that in there mind they cannot give any reason why it should of) it is there for NOT a manufacturing issue and that they would not cover the repairs under warranty...
View 4 RepliesA loud throbbing noise suddenly started last night in the rear speaker of my 2010 Santa Fe. I think the speaker is blown. Can I pull the fuse until I can get this to the dealer? Which fuse? I can not locate a fuse map. I tried #13 and #31 based on an old fuse map online but the noise continued.
The noise is loud and I can't drive with my toddler in the car.
The other day I went to leave a car park and started moving but the car didn't respond to the accelerator - it was moving with no errors on the MFD but only at idle.
I'll get a VCDS scan tomorrow? Is there a known issue with the accelerator potential meter or wiring?
Just picked it up on Saturday. 2010 WE, 39,500 miles. Ran great all weekend. This morning, on my way to work, I merge onto the highway, and BAM! Check engine light comes on. Now the car Shakes / vibrates while going 40, or 60-65, and gently pressing on the accelerator.
It shakes at idle, while in Drive, with the brakes on. It seems to have lost power, and the engine sounds like a manual car if you were to try to start from a dead-stop in fifth gear. I've taken it back to the dealership, and they are checking it out. Wondering what the heck happened.
I should also point out that on Saturday, the second I got home, an "Air Bag Error" warning came on, and hasn't gone away.
I have a UK 2006 Mk2 CDX+ which I was driving last night - seemed ok, got to our driveway, turned the steering wheel fully left so I could manoeuvre the car into the driveway when I heard a loud "clunk" noise.
I thought I ran over a bottle or something so carried on reversing, when I got out I noticed the car was parked diagonally! Thought this is strange, I don't park like that and tried again, a bit better but still not parallel! I then noticed the steering wheel was hard to turn, a grinding like noise is heard when I turned so I decided I would need to take into the local in the morning.
Started the car today and drove out and got immediate sensation that steering was not connected to the wheels, the SW was off centre by miles and turning left/right was very sluggish. Lucky the garage is only down the road (but it's not Hyundai specialist) from me as I would not risk driving it down main roads in this condition. Guy at garage asked me to fully turn the SW left to right and we can see that the front of the car actually moved during the process. He is going to take it up on the lift to look underneath.
I get this loud click noise coming from the front end of my vehicle when I apply the brakes. It seems to happen much more often than not, especially at low speeds. I can only describe it as some sort of loud clicky clanky sound, it's also a single sound, it doesn't go on and on and it only happens when I apply the brakes.
View 2 RepliesMy car is making a loud deceleration noise evertime I let off of the accelerator. It appears the RPMS are not adjusting. Could this be my transmission, timing or something else?
View 9 RepliesI have had my 2007 GX for 5 months now. I have discovered the "clunk" issue and had the dealership replace the driveshaft. I want to start a new thread because I have a different clunk. The new driveshaft has fixed my clunk issue at a stop but I have one more. While driving in the city or leaving the highway on the exit ramp (transmission is in overdrive) and I press the accelerator I get a clunk.
This only happens when the transmission is shifting out of overdrive. I can repeat this clunk while driving around 30-40 mph. I will coast a bit then accelerate enough that it wants to shift out of overdrive and then "clunk". It sounds loud but not much of a jerk. I have 85K on it and did not perform any fluid changes in the drive train yet. Transmission is sealed so not sure if it is worth changing or just leave it and drive nice so it don't clunk.
My Legacy sedan is not behaving well. On more than one occasion, when pressing on the accelerator, the rpms do not rise. I put it in park and try to press gas pedal, nothing. Turn the car off and let rest for a few minutes, then start it up again, and it's fine.....
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