I have a 2010 Santa Fe V6 2WD. When I rock my steering wheel back and forth, I hear a knocking sound when engine is off. Sounds like maybe the steering gear box has play in it.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 elantra. I drove it for a while, then my ma needed a car (her tercel was a little unsafe) so I traded her. She loves the car, but as sometimes is the case, her dealer is not very nice. She has a severe side to side knocking noise in the steering- can be easily duplicated by sitting with the car idling and turning the wheel back and forth, even a little. Doesn't correspond with driving over bumps unless the wheel is inadvertently turned by the bump. If the suspension is unloaded (front wheels off the ground), noise disappears. No EPS lights, no codes in any system.
Listened with a stethoscope inside the car- not that loud through column within car. Inner and outer tie rods are tight, noise is not heard loudly with stethoscope through struts, upper mounts, lower arms. Under the car with loaded suspension (rhino ramps), noise is deafening in the rack, with a stethoscope. Dealer told her it needs a steering rack, I definitely understand why they would say that as the noise is clearly audible through the aluminum housing directly below the entrance of the column shaft into the rack. Only TSB I found was for a worm shaft flexible coupling, but the TSB says this is bump related.
I replaced the steering gear box in my 06 F250 CCLB 6.8 over the weekend with a reman Cardone. The old gear box had what I can best describe as a chatter/binding if you rocked the wheel back and forth, that's gone now. I sucked out as much fluid as I could, then filled the reservoir several times while the fluid ran out, what came out was very cloudy and gritty, guessing the old box was chewing itself up.
Can't seem to find a straight answer - what fluid SHOULD this have in it?
Sounds like I should have used Mercon, looks like I grabbed Type F instead. Could that cause the steering effort to be extremely light? I mean like ridiculously light, tip of your pinkie barely touching and turning the wheel light?
My husband and I bought a used 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe that I like very much. However it has a serious and frightening problem. When driving in the rain, the steering wheel begins to jerk rapidly back and forth. The steering is responsive and smooth at all other times. We did not notice the problem immediately because we have had such a bad drought here that it has not rained much since we have owned the car. In fact, we had owned the car 3 months before we first encountered the problem. We took it to the dealer and they could find nothing wrong, but it wasn't raining. We returned to the service department on a rare day when it was actually raining and still the dealer could find nothing wrong. It seems that uneven or bumpy pavement makes it worse. The tires were in good shape when we got the car and are now getting to the point of needing to be replaced but we can't keep the car as we feel it is unsafe in the rain.
View 9 Replies2010 SF Limited, about 46,000 KM.
Heard a grinding noise coming from the back of the truck today. First thing I thought to look at was the rotors. They looked warped/wavy and were really hot. I'm worried that the pads are used up and its metal on metal, really looks like rotor damage. I'm confused by this...
1) I get a safety inspection done every time i'm in for service (6km), no service rep has ever warned me about my pads.
2) Aren't squealers supposed to warn the driver of low pads?
3) Pads wear out faster in the front than they do in the back. How could the back pads be used up already? The front looks fine.
So if my back calipers are seized, or the e-brake line froze, then i'm driving with the back brakes engaged full time. This should not have happened to a truck so young. Do I have a warranty case here?
Our '07 Santa Fe (3.3 L) has began making a terrible noise when turning the steering wheel. It is a deep, whining screeching noise that seems to come from the front passenger side of the car. It isn't a metal-on-metal sound, but is similar to the sound my old skid-steer loader used to make at work when the hydraulics were going out. It also seems to be worse when turning right.
At first I thought it was the power steering pump, but looking at some diagrams online it appears that the pump is to the rear of the motor.
The wife says that the sound seems to get worse after it rains. Saturday she drove into Austin to run some errands and when she got back home the sound was really loud. I drove it into town and after a while the noise went away. She says that the sound has returned, but not as bad as it was this weekend.
I have a UK 2006 Mk2 CDX+ which I was driving last night - seemed ok, got to our driveway, turned the steering wheel fully left so I could manoeuvre the car into the driveway when I heard a loud "clunk" noise.
I thought I ran over a bottle or something so carried on reversing, when I got out I noticed the car was parked diagonally! Thought this is strange, I don't park like that and tried again, a bit better but still not parallel! I then noticed the steering wheel was hard to turn, a grinding like noise is heard when I turned so I decided I would need to take into the local in the morning.
Started the car today and drove out and got immediate sensation that steering was not connected to the wheels, the SW was off centre by miles and turning left/right was very sluggish. Lucky the garage is only down the road (but it's not Hyundai specialist) from me as I would not risk driving it down main roads in this condition. Guy at garage asked me to fully turn the SW left to right and we can see that the front of the car actually moved during the process. He is going to take it up on the lift to look underneath.
Well, even though I love my 2010 SF SE I have had a few issues. I've had my power steering pump replaced twice and now I'm hearing a clunky/creaky noise coming from the right from wheel. I"m thinking it is a sticky caliper. It happens most frequently when I am just starting out from having the car parked for a while. When I put my foot on the brake and then release it I get the noise. It seems to go away after I have been driving a while.
Can't say I ever had this much trouble with my previous generation SF. Nothing major but annoying none the less. BTW I have just under 30k miles.
My brand new 2015 Santa Fe Sport (limited) is making a "knocking" noise (emanating from the steering wheel / steering column?) when I turn right.
Instead of trying to describe what I'm talking about, I posted a video here: [URL] ....
* See 6s and 18s marks
Fault will go away on some turns but is generally consistent and easily duplicated. Took it to the dealer and they are stumped as well -- follow up appointment next week.
Ok I changed the 2 front struts on my Santa Fe. And the strut mounts. Rides alot better and no shimmy in the wheel but I noticed a knocking noise when turning the wheel sharp. What I have come to find out the top of the spring it turning the whole cup or top hat it sits in. I put the cup in the right spot because there is a flat spot on the thread of the the strut.
View 13 RepliesRecently on my gen 6 with about 68k miles I have noticed a very pronounce noise when turning the steering wheel whether the car is stationary or in motion. It makes a loud creaking/popping noise and it cant be heard from outside the car. The noise happens no matter which way I turn the steering wheel. I know Toyota has had problems with their intermediate steering shafts.
View 5 RepliesMy 2012 Santa fe crdi2.2 has 150000km. At the speed of 90km/H and faster there is a vibration coming from the back (passenger side I think).
There is no play on that wheel when it’s in the air, but it doesn’t turn smoothly. It turns smoothly until a point where there is obviously friction, once past that point it turns smoothly again for 3 quarters of the way until it reaches the same point…
The back wheel on the passenger’s side is the same story. Although the vibrations seem to come mainly from the driver’s side (at the back). Is this a wheel bearings problem or can it be something else?
I put a winter wheel at the back (driver’s side) to see if the problem was caused by the wheel. There is less vibration when driving, but it also starts at 90km/H. This winter tyre is higher, so probably it absorbs the vibrations better.
It's not a 4x4.
Just recently purchased a used Toyota Camry , i love it. So far everything is great about it, only negative part is that i feel when i turn the steering wheel like a knocking sensation and you can also hear it. Its not the normal grinding sound other people are experiencing. It feels like theres something loose in the steering column. Also while I am driving i can hear like a thump on the right front suspension. normally this sound when i am going over bumbs. Is this like the shocks or something?
Just in case i have a 2008 Toyota Camry SE.
2010 Santa Fe has an intermitent knocking under drivers side of dashboard. It sounds like hard plastic hiting hard plastic. Tried to look up behind dash, but minimal clearence. Its a very obnoxious noise.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 AWD Santa Fe with a little over 43K miles. Over the past few months it's developed a knocking noise that is most audible from the front drivers side area. The knocking speeds up or slows according to the car's speed, and appears somewhat louder when the steering wheel is turned. My initial suspicion from my surfing here is either a CV joint or wheel bearing.
I took it to the dealer that sold it to me and am getting increasingly frustrated with their work. The first irritation was yesterday when the service advisor called to say the problem was corroded rear rotors and brake pads; both wear items not covered under warranty. Though skeptical (since I was hearing the noise coming from up front, not from the back) I authorized the $300+ for turning the rotors, replacing brake pads and flushing the brake system.
When I showed up to retrieve the car I was told it'd been test driven and the problem was fixed. I asked the tech specifically whether he'd checked the CV joints and he assured me he had and they were fine. Upon driving away it was immediately obvious the knock was still there. Back to the dealer. I had the tech drive it with me in the passenger seat. He acknowledged he could now heard the knocking, but claimed he previously couldn't hear it over the horrible loud squealing from my rusted rotors; nor had he heard it on his alleged post-fix test drive. The problem with that is I've never heard this claimed horrible loud squealing, nor has my girlfriend, nor have any other regular passengers.
Back at the dealership the situation escalated when the service advisor, in defense of his tech, also claimed the horrible squealing rotors had drowned out any other noises. The problem with that is he admitted he'd not come along on any of the previous claimed test rides, and claimed to have heard the horrible squealing rotors only while the car was in the shop and/or up on the lift while the tech was turning a rear wheel by hand. Err, if the car was not driven any for distance or speed, of course you wouldn't have heard any knocking up front.
Yesterday evening I got a call from the shop advising the problem had now been diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing, front driver's side. I was assured it'd be fixed and ready this afternoon. All well and good. I showed up this afternoon and the service advisor stated the car was just getting buttoned up and we're going to test drive it. Fine, I'd like to come along on the test drive I said. He agreed, asked me to sit in the waiting room. In a few short minutes though - not long enough IMO - he came back out to advise the tech had just test driven the car (without me?!) and the knock is still there.
As of this writing I have no info from them as to what it might be. I left the car with them and asked the service advisor to have the tech(s) double check the CV joints. He got huffy with me and declared that if if the tech said he'd check them, there's no need to do so again. At this point I'm not sure whether I can trust this dealers' service department. I don't think the service advisor is being honest with me - I think he's been caught in a minor fib re: test riding and is compounding the situation by sticking with it.
2009 Santa Fe only 40500 miles ... Should I Be concerned about the noise it has done this since I bought it in 2010 ...
View 2 RepliesMy new SANTA FE has merely covered 10000 km. The vehicle is running fine except a very irritating loud knocking noise from top of front windshield area. The noise is generated as soon as vehicle goes over a minor irregularity on road or even if you make a sharp right or left turn.
View 24 RepliesI recently bought a 08 question Sante fe we just drove it. When it got to 70 to 80 mph i could feel a vibration in the steering wheel. What it could be. I bought it with 56k on it. Put new tires on it cuz the original tires were worn on the inside on the rears.
View 11 RepliesMy 2007 CM Santa Fe 45K miles began acting up intermittently. We have owned it 5 years from new and never any issues whatsoever. My wife told me that first thing in the morning it made a horrible clanking noise and the entire car shuddered so she shut it off. Then it cranked and ran for days normally. The other morning I got in it and cranked it and man, it sounded like rods knocking, pistons slapping the crank, it was awful. Actually it sounded like premature or off time detonation, the engine would not idle and would die.
After a couple more tries the engine cranked and ran smoothly but with increasing idle speed and after two instances of normal cranking but idle increasing ever upward (same morning in sequence of 10 minutes or so of trying) I called AAA and had it carried to the dealer afraid oil pump giving out, timing belt jumped, bad crank / cam sensors, who knows? Oil was changed 5K ago with Hyundai toilet paper filter.
Anyway dealer found a code, something about engine torque excess - who knows - it wasn't causing the horrible cranking idling banging noise... did some ECM/ECU update, and repaired a TSB for the passenger side Airbag seat detector. They kept it over night and still could not make it occur.
My wife is really worried because honestly it sounds like it's going to throw a rod or something *I know it doesn't have them*. It's just a horrible gut wrenching noise. Dealer mechanics could not find anything wrong and they kept it overnight to crank it cold, and when we picked it up today it cranked fine.... She can't trust it anymore.
I am getting a loud knocking noise from the engine on my Santa Fe. The car is very low mileage of around 51K and has regular service and oil change.
Not sure what has caused this but there is a loud tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine. Have got it locally checked with the garage and Hyundai Workshop also but both have suggested that Oil levels are appropriate and they need to open engine to investigate more.
At a higher RPM the sound becomes more loud and recognizable.
My 2008 Santa Fe has a problem with the power steering at temperatures below about 8 C.When I start the vehicle in the morning in the garage and begin to reverse, the steering wheel seems stuck and will not move. As I force it, usually to the right, it breaks free but will not return to the left without much coaxing and further turning to the right. There are no fluid leaks or unusual sounds while this is happening of any kind. I replaced the steering rack once for this problem and immediately after a second time with no improvement. I am using the OEM fluid. The vehicle is well maintained and has been having this problem since 60,000 km(40000 miles) I really fear my next visit to the Hyundai Dealer and the frustration of not knowing how to get them on track to solve this potentially life threatening problem.
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