Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2010 GLS 2WD - Starter Makes A Winding Noise
Nov 25, 2013
Today I think something went wrong with my starter. When I go to start the sante fe the starter makes a winding noise. Battery tested good and I ensured that the ground was clean and making a good connection.
I read about a TSB relating to a starter arm kit. I can't seem to find a part code or any info on the 2010 specifically having this issue.
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Should I hear my Touareg wind down everytime I shut it off? Almost sounds like an airplane coming to a stop but its not that loud.
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My 09 LS w/ 65k on it wont start. last night i drove the car around to several places, and on my last stop of the day i couldnt get the car to start. finally after several tries, it fired right up. but today, no such luck.
All the lights come on (and I have charged my batery with a tender to be sure its not the battery), the steering wheel moves in to position, and I either get a click, or a buzzing sound.
Sounds like starter, any other opinions?
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I have a 1999 passat 1.8t with 197k miles. When I drive if you listen really closely the engine makes a pretty cool sound like a turbo winding. It's a really really low whooooooo on the first and second gear. You cant hear it unless you have the windows down and there's like no other cars. Is this normal? My friend said the turbo might be going bad ?
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I recently replaced my starter pin my Hyundai Sonata 06 v6 3.3 gls. Installing it was no real issue, but one (there is only one a single wire not the one that you fix on with a bolt and nut) of the electrical connectors from the car to the starter solenoid. The plastic around the conductor pretty much crumbled around my finger, what this connector is called specifically. Now the contacts will not contact properly so i suspect this the source of the rapid clicking issue, since my battery was fully charged. I plan to go to the junkyard too if i can find a replacement. Looking for specifics on the electrical connector?
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Ford F150 truck, when starting, the starter will turn over strongly for half a second then just abruptly makes a loud noise and stops. It won't ever fully crank. Is this just a bad starter?
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2012 Santa Fe all of a sudden won't engage starter. First thing in morning it usually cranks. But once I turn it off it won't crank again. When I turn the key I have full power so it's not the battery or terminals. There's no cracking or popping sound, just a whine like the starter's not engaging. Never had any problems with this car so far. I'm thinking maybe it's the starter solenoid.
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2010 Santa Fe v6, AWD, 95K miles. New struts at 65K, new swaybar endlinks shortly after that.
VERY reliable overall (knock wood).
Last 5K miles or so Ive started noticing a "clickpop" under certain conditions. It sounds like the swaybar endlinks did when they started going - BUT it is different.
Let me explain:
The sound is not caused by road unevenness, or bumps at all. When the struts or swaybar endlinks go, its pretty easy to tell - as you can hit an uneven patch of road, or a certain type of bump and make it happen.
This "clickpop" sounds as if it is coming from just about under the brake pedal, on the firewall side of things. (Engine/undercarriage in that area).
I can make it do it by accelerating up to a "cruising along" speed - i.e. little throttle input (but not coasting down) and then either add throttle quickly, or back off totally. "Clickpop"
I have also been able to make it do it at a stop light - if the road is inclined (stopped uphill) and I add throttle then get off it. Clickpop. Its getting worse pretty noticeably in the past week.
Looking at things - all that makes sense to me is the motor mounts. There are apparently two - one on each side, and two "anti roll" mounts one front and back. If the anti roll ones were bad (esp the one on the back) it would seem to fit.
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I had a remote start installed on my santa fe and initially it worked great. Recently it stopped working correctly. The car still starts but my heat/defrost will no longer turn on. I have tried every combination possible but when I get in the car the heat is turned completely off and will only turn on when I put the key in the ignition and manually start the car.
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2010 SF Limited, about 46,000 KM.
Heard a grinding noise coming from the back of the truck today. First thing I thought to look at was the rotors. They looked warped/wavy and were really hot. I'm worried that the pads are used up and its metal on metal, really looks like rotor damage. I'm confused by this...
1) I get a safety inspection done every time i'm in for service (6km), no service rep has ever warned me about my pads.
2) Aren't squealers supposed to warn the driver of low pads?
3) Pads wear out faster in the front than they do in the back. How could the back pads be used up already? The front looks fine.
So if my back calipers are seized, or the e-brake line froze, then i'm driving with the back brakes engaged full time. This should not have happened to a truck so young. Do I have a warranty case here?
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Well, even though I love my 2010 SF SE I have had a few issues. I've had my power steering pump replaced twice and now I'm hearing a clunky/creaky noise coming from the right from wheel. I"m thinking it is a sticky caliper. It happens most frequently when I am just starting out from having the car parked for a while. When I put my foot on the brake and then release it I get the noise. It seems to go away after I have been driving a while.
Can't say I ever had this much trouble with my previous generation SF. Nothing major but annoying none the less. BTW I have just under 30k miles.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD, I notice that when I apply the brakes at 100 KM or higher I hear a 'thumping' noise, the noise is hard to describe, thumping is the best I could come up with, the noise goes away once the vehicle is down to 80 KM, why this is?
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I have 2007 Santa Fe LTD which will intermittently not start. All electrical devices work fine but when you turn the key the starter will not engage. Keep trying the key and after 5-10-100 try's the car will start. The next time it may start on the first attempt or it might not. Sometimes it will go weeks without a problem then it will not start again. I have checked the starter relay, battery, and cables. It seems like the alarm is faulty and not letting the power get to the starter.
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Our 2010 Santa Fe SE V6 just developed a problem where when we turned the key, the car wouldn't start, and there was a loud clicking sound during start attempt. Battery tested 100% OK.
This often points to a starter problem, but a telling symptom was than the headlights would dim, almost going out, along with the dash lights and most any other lamp. If it was just the starter, unless dead short, this associated dimming would not happen. I also put a volt meter on the battery and watched battery voltage during cranking attempt, and the voltage showed minimal drop, so once again the battery was not the problem.
Traced the problem to the ground strap from the battery which terminates to the driver side front wheel well. Two bolts hold the strap to the wheel well, and they are oxide coated and the contact point on the wheel well is painted. This means all the current returning to the battery is essentially passing through the bolt threads and cap where the oxide has been scratched enough to be conductive.
I sanded underside of the bolt heads to remove oxide, sanded the ground strap itself which seemed to have some sort of clear coating, and sanded the paint away from the wheel well where the strap makes contact. I didn't have star washers, but if I did they would have been a good addition.
Car now starts with no problem.
I am concerned with the possibility of corrosion under the strap where I sanded away the paint, but will monitor this. I think the contact between the strap and fender wall is tight enough with the two screws to seal out moisture and oxygen.
I am also going to locate and check any other chassis to engine ground straps so I don't have any new problems in the future.
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My wife was driving our 2 young kids on the highway and the accelerator was making a loud clacking noise and then there was no response when pressing the accelerator. She managed to get to the shoulder. Mechanic says the engine is totally cooked (long block replacement). Only 32K miles and all scheduled maintenance done.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe V6 2WD. When I rock my steering wheel back and forth, I hear a knocking sound when engine is off. Sounds like maybe the steering gear box has play in it.
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The bearing supporting the half shaft on the vehicle right side makes a noise. I don't hear the noise in the wheel bearings so I believe the noise is isolated to the support bearing.
The SF has 175k mi. The right side cv axle was replaced and it had some looseness in it but it did not eliminate the noise.
Additionally, I don't discount that some noise is generated by the tires as they are not new.
2003 Santa Fe 6cyl ....
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i recently purchased a 2007 Chevy Avalanche 4WD (75K miles) and much to my chagrin, in the first week, i detected a noise that has steadily become worse. the dealership (a Chevrolet dealer) has not been able to determine the cause. I've had it back four times already. The noise always occurs between 45-60mph (not rpm-related) there is a groaning sound and it is accompanied by a vibration in the steering wheel. it is especially notcieable when going around turns in the road at these speeds.
The dealer said it might be related to the alternative fuel management (DOD), but i deactivated the AFM and the noise is still there. I suspected wheel hubs but they checked and said the hubs are fine. The other day as i heard the noise i dropped it out of overdrive down into "3" and the noise suddenly disappearred. All gear shifts are fine, but this was somewhat alarming. I am beginning to think this might be related to the transfer case or front differential? maybe this would be good for "Stump the Chump" ?
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My dashboard makes a vibration noise sometimes when going over bumps at low speeds in my 2013 LS f sport.
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So, I have a 2007 Suzuki SX4, about 172,000 miles on it. Great little car. Love it. It's the AWD Hatchback model.
I recently noticed that it's been squeaking a bit. But only right at start up. In fact, it's summer where I live, and A/C is required just about anytime you go anywhere, day OR night... so, it may have been going on a while without me noticing it. Certainly sometime since the last oil change (almost ready for a new one).
Tonight was typical..... Start the car. Back out. Drive half a block to where there's a stop sign. I hear squeaking when I step on the brakes. Take my foot off the brakes (just to test it) and I still hear squeaking.
I turn left from my side street onto a busier street, hear a bit of squeaking. It goes away. Then I go two more blocks, make a left turn onto an even busier street, where it squeaks LOUDLY while turning left. By the time I drive another six blocks, the noise is gone. Completely.
At first I wondered about the summer heat and the serpentine belt.
The squeaking while turning left made me wonder if it's a stuck caliper.
The fact that it goes away after about a mile of driving makes me scratch my head.
Tonight, I did experiment a little. The car DOES pull -- EVER SO SLIGHTLY -- to the left. But I mean.... just barely to the left. And that could've been because the particular road I was on (when I "over corrected" a little and aimed the steering wheel a lot more to the right, it started to drift right). Alignment was last done a little over a year ago. Maybe year and a half.
So...... I know I should get this checked out. Just looking at what this might be. The fact that ALL squeaking goes away after about a mile of driving.... that seems odd to me... (unless of course it's the belt).
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Our 2013 RX350 has a brake pedal that makes a pretty loud noise when it snaps back after you depress it a little harder and take your foot off. I complained to my SA, and they told me it's normal. It's not a big deal, but any other car I have owned, I have never noticed such a thing.
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