Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2010 - Engine Jerks When Driving Slowly
Jul 29, 2011
I bought a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L and noticed the engine would jerk really bad. It felt like the engine was going to jump out of the vehicle. I notice it does it when I turn it on in the morning and when I am driving slowly out my lane way the engine jerks. I have dealt with this problem since last year and they have already replaced the transmission which has done nothing. I took it back to the dealership and the service manager told me that he has already had 4 of the same vehicles come in with the same problem and they realized that they had to re-set the computer in the engine so that the transmission computer and the engine computer are on the same page that they talk to each other so to speak. Since they re-set the computer we have had the vehicle back a week today and this morning the car jerked again. I am tired of constantly taking this vehicle in and being told they have a solution and then it is not fixed. How am I supposed to sell a vehicle to someone when it feels like you are being lifted out of your seat because of the JERKING!!!!!
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe Gls. I noticed that the car jerks while driving. It stumbles when you slow down. The vehicles feels like it lags power like something is holding it back. I noticed that the gas mileage is bad. What's wrong with it? Is it something fuel related?
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A few days ago I felt a feeling of bumping on a flat road when I turn slowly. I was wondering if it might be a transmission shift shock due to an insufficient warming at the cold temperature. It seemed such bumping didn't happen after enough warming more than 5 minutes.
The outside temp was just above 0 degree on yesterday morning, I started SF without warm-up and drove about 15 minutes. Then I was making 3 point turn on a residential road covered with a little bit of ice on its edge when I felt one of rear wheel was slipped a bit on the ice and rear wheel got locked or seized and skipped. Upon the complete turn I was able to drive the SF home slowly cautiously, however every time I made a slow sharp turn left or right there had been skipping leaving tire marks on the driveway.
I thought 4wd lock was initially activated at that time and it had not been deactivated since. I tried to push and release 4wd lock button several time with no success, and I felt the SF moving very heavier than usual. I was trying to park the vehicle backward with a sharp turn too, it was much harder to turn back than forward feeling like rear wheels were stuck somewhere, suddenly there was a loud banging or thumping sound from bottom behind. Right after the banging the SF was moving as normal.
Today I tested SF by driving above 60km/hr as well as sharp turning for 30 minutes, everything looked normal. A couple of hours later I decided to test 4wd lock button again. While I driving SF at about 10km/hr I pushed 4wd lock button and released it 15 seconds later. I did it a couple of times because I was not sure if 4wd lock was activated and deactivated. And I was making 3 point turn again, then the same rear wheel seizure and skidding happened. I stopped the SF and I pushed and released 4wd button a couple of times with no success.
Finally I tried to turn back as I did before, and there was a banging sound, I thought the sound was weaker than yesterday, since then everything went back to normal. There is no grinding or clunking noise from the area where the differential unit is located. I was wondering if mine has faulty electronic clutch itself or any other components. The warranty was over 5 months ago, mileage is only 49,000km.
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My 2007 Sante Fe had problem this week. Took 6 attempts to start engine, then ran smoothly the rest of the night. The check engine light came on while trying to start vehicle.
Next day I changed the spark plugs but now find that the vehicle jerks when idling. Runs fine when going but jerks and bucks at stop lights and stop signs. Just added fuel injection cleaner to see if that may support the situation.
Engine light has come back on again since resetting. I have read several suggestions on internet regarding leak in vacuum line, Coil Pack damage due to faulty hose, even faulty 02 sensor.
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While driving at between 20-45 MPH in warm weather only IDEAL SPEED IS 38-42 .. At times the car jerks forward and downward like, even slowing down at red light: Seems like the whole problem is coming from transmission! (Sensors)? The car is cursed. Example:
1- The symptom seems like your driving in drive position then all of sudden it shifts to low gear
2- When driving normal then it seems like the car shifts to neutral and the RPMs shoot up to 3-4
3- Sometimes when stopped the steering wheel shakes bad.
The car runs normal in winter time? Doesn't do it everyday.
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My 2012 Santa Fe GLS 2.4L jerks and bucks while coasting. When you let go of the gas pedal the car would jerk. Is that normal for the car. The dealer could not duplicate the problem.
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Purchased this car new. 2008 GLS w/ V6 2.7L engine. Wife's car, so I rarely drive it. She's complained for a month about an intermittent issue with the jar "jerking", usually during slow speeds.
I felt it for the first time myself. Was halfway through a pretty tight curve at around 20 MPH, starting to slowly accelerate when I felt a definitive lurch. might have been momentary loss of acceleration, or transmission. Not sure which. No CEL thrown.
I did see another thread mentioning a 2007 with a similar issue, but that person had codes thrown that pointed to a Throttle position sensor and a need to reflash a transmission. Think I'm seeing the same situation, or would this be different ? Absent any CEL, I'm sure the dealer will not be able to find it....
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Have this problem where Santa Fe when coasting in a parking lot or driving slowly on the road, that their is a bit of a slam into second gear in the auto transmission?
Reason I am asking this is that I have this problem and own a 2013 KIA Sorento, but understand the Santa Fe V6 shares the same motor and tranny. I also read that one long term test of the Santa Fe on the web had this very same problem, but in the end after happening several times, stopped happening.
After reading much info, I ordered a Transmission Temp Sensor as this seemed to work on some cars, but it's really a hit or miss thing.
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2010 Toyota Camry xle v6. What is more accurate, miles to empty or the needle gauge. When I use certain brands of gas I notice that the car jerks when driving at all speeds. It's just a slight jerk nothing serious. The brand is Kwik trip gas. I find the the car runs best on 93 octane bp, Mobil, shell, or Cenex.
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I bought my 2007 Santa Fe with 112,000 miles in April. It ran fine until about a month ago. When I turned the key to aux, the radio and lights came on but when I tried to start it I lost all power. Turning the key off and back on had no effect, it acted like the battery was dead. I opened the hood and noticed the pos cable was loose on the terminal. As soon as I touched it I heard a click, the security light started blinking and it started fine.
A week later as I was driving on the highway the electricity started blinking in and out and the car would shutter as it lost and regained power, then eventually died completely but the radio was still on. I got to the shoulder and tried to turn it back on but even though the radio and lights worked, nothing happened when I tried to start it. I lodged a matchstick between the pos terminal and the cable to make sure the connection was tight and it started. Driving home the power would occasionally stutter when I hit a bump but it never died completely.
I used a battery and alternator tester that plugs into the cigarette lighter and both registered as fine. I've driven it to work, about 2 miles, several times since and the power sometimes cuts out at bumpy parts of the road and it has died completely twice while sitting still at a light. The clock doesn't reset when it dies so, knowing nothing about electrical systems, I would guess that the electricity isn't being entirely lost. Every time it dies the radio and lights still come on but I have to get out and jiggle the pos cable to get it to restart. While driving the battery and seat belt lights flash randomly. A friend told me to try removing the pos cable while it's running and that if it died, it was probably the alternator. Tried it and the engine died immediately. Don't know what this means since the alternator tested fine.
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I own a 2010 AWD Santa Fe. It gets factory scheduled maintenance at the dealership. Since owning ( i bought it used from Dealer, it was driven by dealer) it has periodically revved while driving. Often at lower speeds while accelerating from a stop. The engine will rev and the car will act as if it is in neutral. Then, after a few seconds there will be a sharp jerk as the transmission(?) engages and the car lurches forward. My dealer told me it is normal. This does not seem normal.
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I drive 07'es350 and I have felt jerks while driving usually when accelerating or slowing down from speed. Did check with dealer before for transmission after analysis by technician he said it is perfect, recently read on internet and saw fuel filter can be an issue but when called the dealer he said filter is in gas tank and it is lifelong. Not sure what kind of diagnosis I should do to find the issue.
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I've got a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.4L engine. Funny thing happened on the highway. Driving along with the cruise on, the engine 'hiccups'. Almost like a quick hesitation or someone lightly tapping the brakes.
Got it home and ran the usual tests. Computer showed no trouble codes. Checked the oil. Checked the air filter. All normal.
Turned the car on and tested it in park. Gave it some gas, and took the engine up to 3k RPMs...after a few seconds, it did the hiccup thing again. I watched the RPMs dropped from 3k to 2.5k, and then rebounded to 3k. We could also hear a slight and single 'knock' each time the RPM's would drop. I noticed the A/C was on, so I turned it off, and the problem went away. Turned the A/C back on, and the problem came back. I did that about 5 times to confirm it, and every time the problem occurred, the A/C had to be on.
Now, of course the car has 61.5k miles, and we're the second owners, so bye bye warranty. The car was in for repairs at the dealership when the head control unit for the A/C had issues. Of course now we ask them if the problem is related to their repair will they cover the costs, and they say the best they can do is ask Hyundai to cut down the expenses (even though the repair was done within the last 10k miles)?!
My guess is the compressor has kicked the bucket. Of course, I'm not sure if maybe it's the idle motor not operating like it should or if the car even HAS an idle motor to work with the RPMs when the A/C is on.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fa GLS. 88K miles. This issue started in the last 6 months, once the engine turns over the RPM drop low and starts to putter as if it is not getting enough fuel. If push down the gas when starting it works. Once it passes the first 2 -3 seconds everything is fine. No issue idling or driving. What this could be? It's not an issue with Starter, Battery, my best guess would be a sensor, leaky fuel injector.
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2010 Santa Fe V6...about a week ago the starter started acting up. When you try to start the car, you would hear 3 clicks before the engine would start normally. The clicking is random and does not happen every time. The dealer could not find anything wrong other than the battery was reading 440CCA vs the 600CCA it was rated. Starter clicked first thing today on the way to local mechanic to get brakes replaced. They tested battery and it tested good. What could be the problem?
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I turned off the engine and I get a whirring sound, quite loud, that seems to be coming from the top of the engine around where the injectors are.
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04 Touareg VR6 7k miles. Noticed a slight engine knock when driving very slowly such as through a parking lot when you vary engine speed between 1500 and 2000 rpm? You can not hear it if when the window is down, or radio is on, it has to be very quiet. I think it may have been here all along and I just never happened to be idling around with no radio.
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Our 1997 Grand Caravan with 170K loses more air conditioning every year. So, I assume I have a slow leak. Is recharging something I can do myself with the new type cans offered by auto parts stores? Also, I think the radiator fan no longer comes on, I never hear it and the engine temp will go up when driving slowly around town.
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I was driving slowly with cruise control on when the check engine light came on, a few restarts and it still didn't go away. All fluid levels are OK, no other errors show up on start-up or driving and the car drives fine on both ICE and EV modes.
I'm bringing the car in first thing tomorrow. I called my usual Lexus guy and he didn't know what the problem could be either. I'm a bit freaked out, to be honest. Wish I had an OBD dongle to use with Carista.
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Is it normal for the engine to start at 2000rpm and slowly drop?
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So this has happened to me a few times now in the cold temps. For my job I'm left to sit and idle every now and then after over an hour of driving.
I'll park my car, ICE will turn off, ICE temp at 195. Sit with heat on at 65 degrees. After about 10 minutes the engine temp will drop to about 110, which the ICE will start and warm up to about 135 and turn off. Hybrid battery stays above 55% and normally hits about 65% on every ICE start. (I have extra instrumentation installed to monitor)
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