Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2010 - AC Stops Cooling When Raining
Jun 15, 2011
My 2010 Santa Fe has had a AC problem since one week of ownership - when it is raining and I drive the car more than 10-15 mins - the AC stops blowing cool air. My dealer has seen the problem first hand - but has no solution for it. Last fall they replaced a faulty accuator - wasn't able to test it our since was fall... but doing it again since the warm weather has started.
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I run the A/C all the time in the warm months. When I stop at a read light or my car isn't moving, the a/c stops cooling. I had an issue a few weeks ago where my car started to overheat in a drive-thru because the electric fan wasn't running at all. The electric fan connection had gotten loose and melted. I got that fixed but now when I turn the a/c on the electric fan only comes on when the engine needs cooling. The electric fan should be on anytime the a/c is on to cool the condenser correct? Is there a bypass switch or maybe a fuse that was damaged from my previous problem?
2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS
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Have an issue with my front air con not working.....
When you start the car there is a rattle/squeaking noise, this sounds like a worn pulley, when you press the air con button to turn it on the noise stops. It does not make any sound changes to the unit/engine to indicate the compressor engages and the is no cooling from the unit.....
Is it a new compressor or is there a common fix for this issue?
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I have a huge problem!!! While I'm driving every week my 07 Santa Fe just "kicks out". First my touch screen system cuts off then the car will stop running. This morning every time I hit the brakes my check engine light would pop on then my touch screen and lights would "restart". As I was pulling into my neighborhood it completely cut out of me. Nothing worked, not even the power door locks. And I couldn't put it in park. This has never happened. Usually it just kicks out, restarts and then I can go. This has got to stop!!
In the past when this has happened I was able to pop the hood and wiggle the wire on the battery. Then my lights and everything turn back on and I can continue to go where I was going. Battery and connectors were replaced in June 2012
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This is the 4th time this has happened.While in reverse it will suddenly lock up as if I hit a large object,and the anti skid light will come on and also the all wheel drive light will come on.I will then shut off the engine and start the vehicle were the lights on dash will reset and go off.
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I recently bought a used 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe 4 cylinder AWD. Does the transmission have a fluid cooling system? If I pull a boat that weighs less than the 1600 pound limit should I drive in "D" or manually select 5th or even 4th gear?
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My odometer often stops displaying when driving. I suspect water in connections. Where is the sender unit physically located?
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My heater works when engine on tickover then stops working after a mile or so driving. I have taken heater hoses off and it does not seem blocked and have replaced the engine thermostat. Now what can I do??
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I have a 2004 Santa fe and if it is raining or if I drive through a puddle of water, my steering is locking up, what may be causing it? I am afraid it will cause me to wreck.
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2000 Volvo v70... When accelerating (particularly at high speed) the air conditioner stops cooling. Until the car is turned off the AC does not cool. Dealer checked out the AC and found no problems.
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When using the AC on my 2004 Prius, in any mode, any temperature, on fresh or recirculate, the cooling starts and stops every 5-10 mins. When the cooling is on, it is nice an cold, but then no matter how hot outside, the cooling stops and I am just getting vent air. After a while, the temp in the car gets way above the set point, and it kicks back on and cools again. This occurs over and over again.
Being as the cooling works well some of the time, I was wondering if it is a controller, not the cooling system itself.
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When it's really hot out and I'm highway cruising my ac stops cooling for about 5 seconds when I let off my gas to slow down then I feel a small nudge and it's cold again.....
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At startup, my 2002 Jeep A/C cools normally for about 10 minutes and then stops cooling. It won't cool again until much later, usually not until the next day, and then repeats cooling for about another 10 minutes . Might this be overcharged? I topped it off with gauge last fall.
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1999 Nissan Maxima. My AC works great until I take a trip. About an hour into the trip the AC slowly stops cooling. I turn the fan onto high to unthaw, this works a little but it is still very warm. If I slow down to about 45 going through a town the cooling will improve until I return to highway speed. My mechanic has checked the freon, changed the sensor two times. When it has stopped cooling I have checked under the hood and the AC is still clicked in, as if the AC does not click off when it is cool enough and freezes. My mechanic has come to the conclusion that there may be something in the computer.
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The brakes on my 2014 Elantra Sport grind when they are wet/it's raining. They seem fine when dry.
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It seems that my mpg gauge always drops by at least 2 mpg when it's raining, even if one goes slower because of the rain. Why is this?
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I read in a different vehicle forum that, in vehicles where the A/C condenser is mounted in front of the engine coolant radiator, when the engine coolant temperature reaches some near-overheat limit, the onboard system disengages the A/C compressor clutch so its condenser does not preheat airflow going to the radiator in an attempt to avoid overheating.
Is this the case with the Toyota Highlander (and specifically in a 2008 Hybrid Limited)???
I've recently been experiencing loss of A/C cooling when the center console outside temperature exceeds about 107 and the dashboard coolant temperature gauge is almost midway up towards H, but still closer to C. But once the outside temp reading drops back below 107, and I restart the vehicle, the A/C is once again cool.
Since coolant temperature is likely is impacted by higher outside temperatures, might the coolant temperature sender be failing or simply aged such that it is out of calibration, falsely indicating too high a reading?
How difficult is it to replace the coolant temperature sensor? Where is it located (in case it's just a corroded connection!)?
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD which I suspect the AWD is failing. This is my 3rd viscous coupler (2 previous replacements under warranty). I am now out of warranty and am not willing to replace it again because I am sure it will fail.
I remember a tech had disabled my AWD in the past while waiting for a part to arrive. How to disable the AWD? I do remember it was from underneath the vehicle.
The reason I want to disable it is because it is intermittently delivering power to the rear wheels and it bucks and kicks when accelerating.
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I have removed this filter before but last oil change I took it to a garage as it was too cold for my liking to change oil. The cap is now stuck on very tight. This one has a plastic 27 mm lug on top with an arrow clearly pointing clockwise. I am assuming that means to turn clockwise (or reverse thread) to remove it. It simply won't budge.
I read the post where someone broke the plastic top on the housing and I do not want to have that happen. How to confirm that the oil filter top is reverse thread?
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So it worked fine, then one day I get in and start it up and I get a "no connection" message. I can change back and forth between XM 1 2 & 3. But I cannot change stations or even scroll to my radio ID.
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My Santa Fe 2010 is pulling to the left and the dealer has tried everything to eradicate the fault without success. What might be causing this?
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