Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2009 - Transmission Shifting Is Not As Smooth As When Engine Is Hot
Dec 3, 2011
When I start the car for the first time of the day, the shifting is not as smooth as when the engine is hot. Is this normal ? When I checked the trans fluid, it was between 25 and 75...(the second little mark on the dipstick) but I just drove about 5min so maybe the engine wasn't warm enough..
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I have an 86 celica with a 3sgte swap. 92 Camry v6 transmission . It feels rough when going into gears. Not smooth. I just replaced the transmission and it feels EXACTLY like the old the.
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I have a 2012 Sierra 1500 SLE with a 5.3 liter engine, 6 speed transmission and about 7700 miles. I have noticed that at times the truck does not seem to be performing efficiently and will not seem as smooth and transmission shifting is sometimes not so smooth in the lower gears. I have noticed that when I let the truck warm up for about a minute before putting it in gear, that all seems to go much more smoothly, but if I crank up cold and take off right away, then it tends to run not as smooth. I have even heard a slight "slap" type noise that I think is the transmission shifting when slowing down to make a turn at about 15-20 MPH. When I go to accelerate after the turn, it will sometimes slap as if it is hunting for the right gear. Obviously, I now let it warm up for a minute before I drive it. I have not talked to the dealer, but I probably will when I take it in for its 10K checkup.
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We've got a new 2010 Santa Fe AWD LTD with about 2800km on it. About once or twice a week, under normal driving, we've noticed very harsh shifts. It seems to be the 2-3 shift and is around 40km/h. Just normal acceleration from a stop sign. And just recently a new issue. It seemed like it got stuck mid-shift...
I was accelerating slowly from a stop and on the 2-3 shift the engine revved up above 3000 as if it was in neutral. I eased off the gas and then it completed the shift. My wife took it into the dealer today, but I'm worried they'll send it back as "unreproducible" as we've only had about 1 problem for every 10 hours of driving. We'll see what they say. As you can imagine, I'm not very impressed that we're having these issues before our first oil change...
Somebody mentioned that maybe there's something sticking in the transmission and it builds up enough pressure and then finally makes the shift. But I'm not a transmission expert by any means...
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We have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD LTD with about 140, 000km on it. It recently came back from front suspension work. The suspension is fine now, but we notice harder shifts in the transmission. Also, there seems to be a vibration just before shifting gears and when under load (like going up hill) seems to slip (like on ice) about once every second until the shift is made. Once the shift is made it drive smoothly until put under pressure again. Even stepping down a bit on the accelerator will cause this slipping feeling (or maybe its loss of power). Just had new plugs put in and a tuneup so it's not that. Could something from the suspension work cause these symptoms?
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe - I have noticed it is quite a rough ride. I guess I am used to the suspension in my Passat, but I still find it is not as smooth as it should be. I thought maybe giving it a bit of time would work, but so far at 25,000km it is still the same. Find it's a bit of a rough ride? Or should I look into it?
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe (Automatic 3.3 v6 AWD). I have found the last few days (-20 C) where my gear shift will move into all gears (R, P, N and D) but the car wont move in Drive. R, N and P all work fine. It does seem as the car warms up everything's fine.
The light in the dash for D does not light up either when not working. What this might be?
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I am getting a clunk from the front passenger side when going over bumps or when the road is not smooth.
It seems to happen at lower speed, so when I am on the highway, I cannot hear anything. The sway bar link seems to be the common thing, but when the car was lifted, there was oil on one of the struts.
2008 3.3 Santa Fe ... The car has 115k KM. Is this a normal thing for it to fail at this point? Last time I had clunks in the suspension it was a sway bar link that was repaired at the dealer under warranty. I can't remember if this is the same sound or not.
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My 2009 Santa-Fe AWD Limited is sick! Starting from a stop, the vehicle has abrupt shifts with the transmission slipping (RPM revving). Seems worse when cold. Checked the fluids, and found ATF fluid in the engine oil and engine oil in the ATF fluid. Quick internet check suggest a leaky vacuum modulator valve. (There is no way the fluids went in the wrong holes, the vehicle only has 69k kilometers on it, so it still has original ATF fluid, and I recently changed the engine oil myself.) So, do you think this is the correct diagnosis? How hard is it to change the modulator, and where is it located?
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I drive a 98 Toyota Corolla. This morning I notice when I was driving that I had to get up to a higher speed when I shifted into 5th gear. And also when I did shift it was not as smooth as it once was, it started tp shake slightly and felt like it puttered briefly (the only way I could describe it). When I got about 5 minutes away from work, my check engine light starts flashing then eventually shuts off. What I need to do or if I can solve this myself?
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I have a 2007 SE with 3.3L and Auto transmission. 70k miles, regular service performed.
Starting a few months back, I've noticed a low volume hum/whine coming from the engine compartment. I notice it more when I'm in drive, but also notice it to a lesser degree when in park and revving. In drive, the sound gets just a bit louder and higher pitch, until shifts, then lowers at low RPM, growing again as revs move up.
since it happens in park, I'm thinking it is engine related, not transmission? (I usually change oil around 4k, sometimes as high as 5k)...
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Just had my original transmission replaced at 96000km. My new transmission has a quirk that happens from time to time when you start the vehicle there is a "thud". It varies from small to loud and only happens the second the engine starts. I have noted that it is worse when the car is parked on a hill and the parking brake is engaged before the car is put in park. My only idea is a problem the the parking mechanism or pawl as its called. The dealer won't even admit there is a problem. I've never had worse dealer service with any automaker.
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My honda accord 2003, 4 cylinder (101000 miles) has constantly check engine light on, also transmission has been rough (it started right after a trip to mountains). The transmission sometimes becomes smooth as normal but still check engine light on and most of times transmission is jerky. I took it to mechanic, he did testing and there was no code.
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For the past year or so my Santa Fe (49,000KM) the engine will knock for 5-45 seconds when I start it up after its been sitting a while. I asked the dealer and they said this is "normal" and cannot be adjusted.
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Experienced sluggish acceleration with their "09" Santa Fe. I have the 2.7 liter 6 cyl. engine and it seems so sluggish when accelerating. I have replaced all the plugs with some best rated ones specific to my model. I have tried one of the best rated fuel system cleaners. It still seems to have no pep, my daughter's 1999 Honda has far more get up and go.
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My 2009 Santa Fe (2.7 L V6 GL, 5 months old 7500 kms) just recently started making some very pronounced knocking noises on startup when the engine is cold. It never did this before and only lasts a minute or less, it's not that the engine itself is very cold since I keep it in a heated garage all the time when it's home, but when the engine is starts first thing in the morning it's very noticeable.
I have an appt. at a dealership tomorrow to get it checked, outside of an oil change I never dealt with these guy's before. What it could be? It's full of oil which they just changed 4 weeks ago.
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We've had this 2009 SE with the 3.3 since brand new, and have had the engine shut off/lose power out of the blue while driving 4 times over the years.
Each time we were able to pull off the road, shut off the ignition, then restart and have it work normally but the odd thing is that there hasn't been any codes or CEL on etc. so when we take it to the dealership they run diagnostics, and say "no codes, no problem" which is beyond frustrating.
How to get to the bottom of what's causing this?
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe that when the engine has warmed up, the engine starts making a ticking/clicking noise. The dealership told me not to worry all cars make that noise and it was probably just a purge valve. Does this sound right?
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I have a 2009 Sante Fe with 60,258 miles. I had the timing belt changed at 60,000 miles at the dealer. I now have a check engine light that shows the following two codes.
P0321
P0612
These codes are related to a timing belt change? Could a sensor have been removed for the work and not replaced correctly?
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So my r32 is the first DSG car I've owned. Been about over a year now and the gear change from 2 to 3 is not rough, but I can feel it. Almost like a bad dogbone mount...but only up shifting from 2-3. It does always happen. There are a lots of factors that come into play, throttle input, load, rpm, whether spark cut kicks in or not. DSG fluid is changed every 30k, UM engine/DSG combo. HPA puck.
The second issue happens much less frequently. Under heavy load, 2500-3200 rpm, in 3rd or 4th gear, the following upshift to 4th or 5th does something very strange. For some reason, when spark cut kicks in a too low an rpm in too high of a gear it engages the next gear then very quickly disengages and engages again. Almost as if it were another upshift.
VCDS doesn't allow me to access the PIDS for each individual shift solenoid, or the metering valve. Neither does the factory scan tool. I've been trying to catch the strange clutch activity in a log to post but every time I take my computer in the car and log the clutch activity it behaves normally.
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We have had had our Santa Fe for a year, done 38000 km and love it. The car will start up and drive around town fine but as soon as the engine is under load at highway speeds or driving up a hill it loses all power.
In Automatic when this happens the gear will drop back to third. You can switch it over to manual mode and slowly accelerate back up to around 80-90km/hour with your foot flat to the floor but the rpm don't get above around 2000 to 3000.
If you stop and turn the engine off for a minute or so, when you start again everything will appear to back to normal but after another minute or two the problem will be back. The engine malfunction light comes on and sometime it's flashing but at other times it's constant.
The car's been in at our local Hyundai dealer for a week but at this stage they still can't quite figure out the exact cause of the problem. The code they pulled out suggested it was the exhaust particulate filter (apparently quite an expensive part) so they replaced that but it didn't fix it. They've also replaced the fuel filter and some temperature sensors that are part of the particulate filter apparently but still no joy.
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