Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2009 Won't Stop Locking And Beeping
Feb 13, 2011
I have a 2009 Sante Fe Sport 3.3; that recently just started locking itself. The way i knew was because the horn kept going off as if we were pushing the lock button on the keyfob a bunch of times. Well the keyfob wasn't being pushed and the only way I could get it to stop beeping was to hold the unlock button on it. I thought it was the battery dying on the keyfob but I took it out and the car continued to beep. We are taking it in to the service department tomorrow. The only was I can stop the madness is if I have the door partially open, to break the circuit (I would imagine)
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How to replace the bulbs of the rear high mount stop lamp on a 2009 Santa Fe?
I got the bulbs already, located the 2 nuts on the inside directly behind the brake light, but when I remove them, the assembly won't pop out.
I know the manual says they recommend getting these particular bulbs replaced at an authorized Hyundai dealer, but since I already bought the bulbs, I'd like to try and do it myself if at all possible.
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Any ls600hl owner experienced this? --> When the car is left on acc for a while (all electrics system online without the engine running - or if the car is started with radio only then shut off a few time) the parking sensor suddenly start beeping non stop. If you shut down the car then the steering wheel won't go back into neutral position.
If you try to start the car (along the engine) the car does a kind a "air deflating" sound and won't start (don't seems to be the suspension thought). Then the light on the Mark Levinson radio start flashing intermittently and a warning about the SRS is showing telling you to go to the dealer to have the car inspected.
If you wait a few minutes and start the car again it will then start normally without problems and won't display the SRS warning anymore. This is my second 2008 ls600h with the executive trim and both did this so this seems to be some kind of design flawn.
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I have 2007 Santa fe Limited and have problem with door locking while driving. All doors was locking automatically after acceleration before, but now all doors remains open no matter what speed and what distance I drive.
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I had a flat tire and used the spare. I took my 2007 santa fe in to the shop to get the tire replaced and an oil change. The 'shop' put the spare back where it belongs.
Now my keyless entry locks the doors (audible) but does not flash the lights or honk the horn. The lights flash when unlocking and when pressing the panic button. It all worked correctly when I dropped it off at the 'shop'. What to look for?
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L automatic with AWD. I have had a issue with the traction control indicator locking up. The traction control light on the dash goes on and cannot be canceled by the on/off control. It will reset when the engine is turned off and restarted. It is my understanding that the indicator should be lit when the system is actively meeting a traction control issue.
The dealer has performed service on the vehicle twice for this issue, and on a recent trip the system triggered again. It has engaged and locked on dry surfaces during a moderate turn while accelerating (merging from exit ramp). I have seen it engage under slippery conditions (snow... we live in Wisconsin) while turning and then return to normal once the conditions are stable.
My concern is that since the traction control affects braking in order to achieve stability under unusual conditions, that the possibility exists for a malfunction under braking conditions that might cause more problems than it solves.
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2012 Santa Fe - is there anyway to lock the doors remotely when the key is in the ignition & car running?
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I'm a new owner of a Santa Fe 07. My car will not completely lock with the remote. I have to remember to manually check it if the alarm doesn't beep. All the other doors will lock except this one door behind the driver. My model is AWD, it the 7 passenger one . It's not the base model. I didn't have the hard copy of the manual but I have a digital copy. We just got this on 4/24/15. It has 90 warranty but don't think they will fix this issue that I thought was only the childproof lock mechanism somehow or was not a big deal but now I'm not so sure.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe and over the last 3 weeks I have been having a lot of trouble with my door locks. One thing is my automatic lock that happens when you hit 14mph, every time I hit 14mph my doors sound like they are locking 4 times, and every time I stop and take off again they sound like they are locking 4 more times. It is driving me crazy. Another issue I am having is my back passenger side door doesn't always unlock with the FOB or the button on the driver door, it has to manually be unlocked.
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If you push the remote lock button twice the horn beep is very load and startling. Can this be programed for a lower volume sound?
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Every time car is locked, a very loud buzz comes from the nearside front door. I have had the problem for over a year - the locking still works, but clearly something is wrong.
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Started hearing a weird humming noise (not the usual hyundai hum in the front passenger side) coming from the front when decelerating from approximately 20mph down to a stop or from a stop up to 20mph. Went to a shop and ruled out wheel bearings, brakes, rotation, alignment, etc. Noise stopped.
Couple weeks later noticed physical resistance and upon accelerating to about 40mph it felt like I had a flat tire. That bumping, vibrating, shuddering feeling. No flat tire. Physical resistance, not power. Came and went in severity depending on terrain and speed. Brought it to a 2nd shop because the first was closed. The guy found codes that indicated the anti-lock brake system had failed. Said it should be covered under warranty and I should go to dealer.
Dealer replaced a brake switch (which has been recalled and was replaced before) and an inhibitor switch. They assessed the brakes too.
Car drives fine for a week and suddenly the brakes are screeching and we can't reverse out of a parking spot like the car is stuck on a snow mound but isnt. Rock it- in and out of forward and reverse to get out. We test it putting it in reverse again and car slams to a stop. When the car was pulled up on the tow truck we noticed only the rear driver tire didn't spin-locked up.
Dealer says no computer codes and that they just had to "adjust" the brake switch they had replaced. Drove home fine. Next day and for these next few days-something is still wrong. Physical resistance, not power. Cracking/popping noises when braking.
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Last Saturday and today, I drove the car to run some errands. When hot, I turned it off for 5 to 10 minutes. Then it wouldn't start, the starter was cranking strong but the engine didn't start. I tried for 15 minutes with the same result.
Then, I waited for the engine to cool for an hour, it started fine. Both times the temperature outside was around -25 Celsius.
The dealer says he can't do anything if can't replicate the problem. The car is Santa Fe V6 FWD 2011 with 44 000 km.
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When accelerating from a dead stop I can feel a small bump/jolt coming from the rear. It only happens when you move from a dead stop. Its not a shift. Its more noticeable this week.
If I lock the AWD it does not do it. But when I turn off the AWD lock (at 20 -30 kms/hr) I can feel the bump - as if the driveshaft is disengaging.
Its a 2010 3.5 V6 AWD. 115,000 kms on the odometer. I had the viscous coupler replaced last Oct under warranty. I'm taking it in for an oil change and brake job next week.
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All my turn and hazard signals work normally when engaged but when it snaps back into the off position the turn signal (sound only) keeps going rapidly. It goes on and off randomly. It's the sound in the dash only. What it is? I can replace it myself I just need to figure out what it is.
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I am having an issue with the turn signals on my 2010 Santa Fe. When changing lanes to the right and moving the turn signal lever up slightly, the turn signals activate normally. However, when releasing the lever, the signal lights stop flashing (as they should), but the flasher clicks at a rapid rate and won't stop. I have to jiggle the turn signal lever to get it to stop clicking. I have checked all lights and the bulbs are fine.
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Back to my 2007 FWD 2.7L Santa Fe. It has no Visors because a prior owner had them break and fall while driving, hitting them in the face. They dangled by the vanity light wires. They tore them out to get the visor out of their face before an accident happened. I priced new visors at $230 a pair plus shipping online. Ouch, a lot for another set of junk visors!
Recently the car stumbles and the ESC and engine light comes on. Had the codes checked then I and surfed the web and found it to likely be the TPS but the only one to fix it would be of course be the dealer. Diagnosis is $125. plus $70 part plus installation and then $105 to reprogram the TPS. I found the part online for $35. I will install it and then take it to the dealer to program it. So $140 instead of $500! I have yet to do that because I took the TB off and cleaned it. It stumbled a few more times and then ran fine for weeks. Its doing it again though once in a while, some days nothing happens others it happens 4 or 5 times. So I will have to get it done sooner than later. I have however found that it wont stumble and die if I put the car in neutral before I come to a stop. It just happens when its in gear, otherwise it runs fine. So until I take it in to replace the TPS I will use that technique.
I will follow up once I have installed the new TPS and had it programmed so you all will know if that took care of it. I have read some installed the TPS and in short time the computer adjusted to where it worked fine but fuel mileage was poor. Being I know how to drive it to keep it from dying at a stop now, I will wait until I get time and $100 to take it to the dealer for programming.
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I have a santa fe from the year 2008 and recently i had a trip where i would get tons of white smoke every time the car was at idle at the stop light. upon inspection, i saw that the coolant level was below the low line so i had it topped up and the problem disappeared. Everything was fine until today when the problem occurred so i checked the coolant level on the side of the road but the coolant level was fine and still is upon inspection when the car was cooled off. After i stopped to check the coolant level and restarting the car, the smoke was gone and did not appear again. I checked the internet for solutions and some suggest blown head gasket but many of the symptoms do not make sense in my case since the engine never overheats and the coolant level hasn't gone down in the past week.
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We have a 2012 Santa Fe Limited V6 AWD. Currently it has 17,400 miles on it. It's my wife's daily driver and has been a great vehicle. Last week while she was coming out of Target and slowing down for a stop sign she felt a "shudder" as it downshifted from 2nd to 1st. Then as she was coming up to a stop light it did it again. So, she came home and told me about it.
On the highway coming home she said it was perfectly fine but stopping at the stop sign on the off ramp it did the shudder. And so I took it out for a test drive to go get the mail. I noticed that it would shudder on the 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts. On the up-shifts it was perfectly fine. Then, I noticed as I was rolling forward at about 1-2 mph waiting for someone to cross the street the car was rolling like one of it's wheels or axles was bent. Any faster than that and you can't feel it and again at highway speeds you can't feel it at all. It's glass smooth.
Soooo, we bring it in to the dealer and they say we bent the front drivers side axle shaft. WHAT!? How in the world would we have bent that? They said we probably hit a big pot hole but it's under warranty and that they will have to order the part and to bring it back the next week. We drive it for another week and the shudder is getting worse and at this point I'm pretty sure the trans is toast. But still, on the highway it's perfectly fine.
We bring it back in to have the axle shaft replaced and they say it will be about 2 hours. And so we go on our merry way trying to kill some time. About 1.5 hours later we get a call asking us to come back in because they need to get us a loaner.
Apparently as the tech was trying to spin the drive-shaft to line up the splines in the trans with the axle shaft he couldn't turn the drive shaft even though it was in neutral. There was a spot in the rotation of the transmission and drive-shaft where it would spin freely like it should and then it would hit that spot and was almost "un-turnable". They think that is what bent the axle shaft.
So, they are going to tear apart the transmission and transfer case to find out what the problem is but most likely going to have to end up replacing one of them anyway.
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I need locating the locking clips that hold the high mounted stop light assembly in place. Are there any diagrams?
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Apparently while I car was at the stealership for it's 45k service, the car alarm was going off crazy and wouldn't stop, so their techs disconnected the horns.
First time they delivered my car back, the horns wouldn't work- sent it back.
Second time around, porter turns off car, closes the driver door, and car alarm starts blaring, other techs and customers starting and closing their ears..
Not sure what could be going on.
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